Great tip. Thanks for sharing.

You are right, I've using this technique to remove salt water corroded brass screws from hard wood. In most cases, most of the screw comes out with just a little drilling.

Very good method. A rubber Puff ball with nozzle would help greatly with the sawdust & burning problem.

...and, well depending how rich u are... ..using diomond tipped tools for wood is usually a very bad idea... diominds r a carbon material, wood contains very much carbon, and wear down diomond tools quite fast, the higher speed the more wear... u hit litterally hit carbon with carbon,, a steel or carbide is much better for wood, it will not only be more effective, it will save some money too ...diomind r not very suitable for materials containing high ammounts of carbon ...it wears down quite fast, .. for stone its perfect and last almost forever... (unless ur unlycky...stone can have carbone also)

@Tekagi ...depending on drillbit, it may not matter alot ... what matter most is transporting grinded material fast enugh from the cutting surface.... wich this kind of drillbit does a poor job at for wood... edit: diomond cutting edges r of two types, natural diomond and artificial diomonds, natural diomonds r usually more expensive, and (most) manufactured diomonds have one lattice direction thay are stronger in, and one transverse direction thay fracture easily in, depending how the tool is made.. the angle a surface is worked can matter alot (always sheck how the tool was made and for what angle), natural diomonds dont have the same problem.ö ...and if its a boron-nitride-diomond it wont matter much... thay will curt anything like butter... at a cost ofc... tools can be alot more expensive than diomond...

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Oh, and before all of the geniuses on this post start jumping on me, I was doing it by hand, not using a drill. I even tapped them lightly with a hammer to loosen them a bit before I took them out but they snapped any way. 70+ years old. Thanks to this video I now have a method to repair my armoire. So thank you, Ultimate Handyman. I'll be subscribing as you have solved my problem. And no, I won't be using cheap screws when I reassemble my armoire.

Exactly what I was thinking too! 😂 Never occurred to me.

Thanks Matt 👍

Same here, this was one of the most useful videos I ever watched!

to be fair i thought this video wasn't that good at fist i thought what a rubbish idea to remove a screw. but once you see the dowels go in it all makes sense.

Short piece of brake line with a few small slits will work also

Thanks for the comment 👍

Which direction does the drill bit turn, forward or reverse? I would think that using the drill in the forward direction would only push the broken screw further down.

@@Itsme-vo4fx you're not thinking very clearly. Using that type of drill that's not spiraled going either direction does the exact same thing it doesn't push it in or force it out. It just spins. The reason a drill bit goes in when you're going forward and goes out when you're going in reverse is the spirals. This doesn't have that concept. They also have left-handed drill bits that go in when your drill is in reverse that would absolutely blow your mind.

​@@Itsme-vo4fxThe "drill" is actually a hole saw. Doesn't even touch the screw. 😊

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Thanks for the comment and sub 👍

Lancastrians - finest, no-nonsense people in the country!

Thanks Thomas 👍

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If you are building a large deck with screws with a 100+ boards, it is kind of rare to be willing to spend or waste an extra day pre-drilling screw holes. What customer would pay for that extra project time? Sometimes I have deck screw heads snap off during insertion, but simple pliers are usually enough to remove them and try again. Deck screws are deliberately made out of soft material with weak necks. The most common failure I see is when once straight boards begin to warp after a few seasons and the screw fails and the head pops off as the board bends. Previously, snipping off the bottom and redrilling alongside was the easiest fix beyond simply replacing the deck board.. I will look into this video's method.

Here's an argument for using screw wax. It reduces the friction when you drive in a screw.

Indeed. I watched a so-called tradesman/joiner doing this, trying to drive and snapping three screws in a row, whilst hanging a door into an Ironbark (Australian eucalypt - Eucalyptus sieberi) frame. I always pre-drill and use beeswax to lubricate.

Yes I agree I see DIYers using impact drivers for almost every job going but they are often too powerful and I think myself , only suitable for wood to wood applications.

Or you can just get yourself a 7mm HSS holesaw lol

If you look at the dowels they've already got grooves in them.

I've seen excess glue split the wood because it had no way to get out.Good tip.This is why commercially made dowels have grooves.

I believe he had fluted dowels.

Put like a small orange grove in the side of the dowel? If you could actually do that it would be groovy.

​@@martincrabtree6704That's not enough, unfortunately.

That’s great to hear. I don’t watch other DIY related videos, but I do know them both (not personally though) 👍

Thanks Brian 👍

Thanks Alexander 👍

Great to hear! Thanks for the comment 👍

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Brilliant, I’m happy to hear that 👍

There are special self-centering, spring loaded drill bits that work with hinges to drill a perfectly sized bore. Originally from Vix, now every tool company makes them. He used one here.

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Tile hole saw u get it in tile tool section.

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I'm glad the video helped Thanks for the comment 👍

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Glad it helped! 👍

Thanks 👍

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Sorry I did not reply on Sunday, This video was uploaded last week and was scheduled. I was in hospital, having had another heart attack, so I could not easily reply. I’m home now, so can reply. I have had another stent fitted and I’m absolutely fine 👍 Nobody on KZfaq knows apart from you, unless they read this comment 😉

@@ultimatehandyman hope you get well soon pal. You must be liking that hospital food by now😉

@@lazylad8544 I'm good thanks- just like last time! Ironically the food used to be excellent in Blackburn Royal, but it was not as good this time 😉

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Thanks for that tip. 🙂

Diamond drills are not directional so having the drill in reverse would mak no difference. The method he used not only stops the drill wandering it also stops the tear out.

@@thechumpsbeendumped.7797 he’s talking about the twist bit.

Many thanks!

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They are so useful 👍 Thanks for the comment 👍

Great to hear!

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Roll pins are spring steel and they would make a decent wood cutter.

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You are welcome, Paul Thanks for the comment 👍

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Trepanning was first developed by surgeons to cut a hole in a skull for brain surgery. The left over center piece is generally put back in the hole in the skull to heal over. That is why this process was invented. -Doozer

I have seen this done with spark erosion kit, when the item with the broken stud was very large and hugely expensive and possibly light alloy.. Takes a while to do, and is in itself a highly specialised and expensive process.

They are brilliant 👍

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Thanks Christian 👍 Both the diamond coated hole saws and the hinge drills are superb tools!

De nada. Gracias por el comentario

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These kinds of bits are incredibly useful 👍

Glad it was helpful!

When I must use brass screws for decorative purposes, I run a steel screw of the same size into the pilot hole to "thread" the hole before installing the brass screw. It takes a bit longer but makes the brass screw far less likely to break or rag out the head.

Steel screws break too, from the hard torque in high speed or even from the single speed drill drivers. Soft torque is in speed one, and today even speed 1 can be pretty high - DCD 800 has 650 RPM in speed 1. Hard torque is in speed 2 from the hard stop in shock from inertia, momentum and kinetic energy in relation with the speed sqared, at the end of the screwing with a much lower torque as you expect from speed two, but DCD 800 has even so 11 Nm soft in speed 2 and 90 Nm hard torque also in speed 2, and 34 Nm soft in speed 1. Even the soft 11 Nm can break 3.5 x 30 mm steel screws, so I never use 2.5/3/3.5 longer then 25mm and even those only with torque limiter and manual finishing. Also steel 4 x 50 and 60 that are used pretty casual coz' of the smaller head that sink itself in chipboard are also prone to breaking, especially in MDF even if is predriled and countersinked - for MDF you can't sink w.o. countersink even for small heads like those. I prefer to use 4,5 x 50/60 with countersink even for chipboard, or 5x50/60 and even 6x60/80 predrilled, plus the usual euroscrews 7x50/60/70 with 3 step predrilling. I use tons of 4 x 30/35 and 3,5-4 x 18-20, and 2.5-3x25 but only with torque limiter.

@@clarencegreen3071 that's the trick. Tap the hole with a steel screw then put in the brass screw.

@@loochan325 Great info!! Thanks a lot! 👏👏👏

The difficulty with stainless screws is that they’re soft & it’s really easy to strip the slots in the head when using power tools on them.

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I thought about grinding up an old diamond coated hole saw, but they work perfectly as they are. Thanks for the comment 👍

@@ultimatehandyman Be a good use for a worn out one, I suspect the body is of much harder steel than most bits of tubing you will come across so any teeth cut into it would hold their edge quite well I imagine.

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They are incredibly useful 👍 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bbBzmah-16nOmJc.html&t

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