About fifteen yrs ago my older brother was cleaning his garage and handed me a briefcase containing a comp. tester, vac gauge, timing light, dwell tach, feeler gauges, point files etc. Items I already had. I encoraged him to keep them. He declined. I never used any item in the case..I have my own set.Two months ago his oldest son asked me how to set points / do tune up on a 58 Volks Bug he had just purchased. I told him to wait an hour and I would be over. After arriving I handed him his Father's briefcase. Some things should become family heirlooms. It was one of my top ten days ever... seeing an ear to ear smile on a thirty-year-old man is priceless. Thanks for sharing Tony..Best to you and yours.

I learned this stuff in the 70's.Good to see you teaching this stuff to the youngsters.

condensor is an old word for capacitor. Its 2 conductive things (the foil) with an insulator between them. Usually the insulator is thin plastic film now, but way back when it was probably paper. It stores a bit of electricity, so shock absorber is pretty accurate.

I pulled out a timing light and dwell meter to tune a car a neighbor had inherited and he asked me how it read codes with a needle and scale, lol.

As much as people encourage upgrading to electronic ignition, this is interesting to learn!

When the time comes that I can buy an old mopar I will keep the points, carb and enjoy driving a car I can fix.

I’ve had 3 vehicles that have had points. 68 /6 cuda, 70 dude truck, and my hearse. The 70 I never had any problems with. The hearse I ended up putting a pertronix convention in (afterword I found that I couldn’t use my first gen msd 6 box with it). The only problem I had with the cuda was the condenser. I remember telling my dad that I couldn’t figure out what was going on with my radio. He asked what was it doing. I told him there was so much static you couldn’t hear it while the car was running. He went to the tool chest and came back with a grungy cylinder with a wire sticking out of it. That’s when he showed me how to work on points. And that took care of the static.

I always used the pull tabs off of beer cans on my 72 truck. Probably didn't have a matchbook but I damn sure had a pull tab in the rolling garbage can otherwise known as the bed. Been decades since I set points or rebuilt a carb, something I did with great regularity keeping my POS truck running. Great old days.

As I watch this video I can hear my step dad in my head,"Bump it, bump it,,,,,,,,,,,,bump it, that was too much, bump it".

Honest. Points and mechanical advance will always have a place in my heart for simplicity and reliability.

Hey Uncle Tony,just did the starter on my oldest daughters suv, was thinking of ya,it's 11pm, on the street, up on stands, and I had a cigarette burning the whole time

I would buy Penske high performance points/condenser sets at Sears back the '70s, that's when Sears sold speed equipment and stuff. It's refreshing the way you show how well points work and can be counted on when maintained.

The condenser is a capacitor, it absorbs the electrical current when the points open to prevent arcing across the points which keeps the points from welding together.

Exactly the way I was taught by my oldest brother back in the late 70's.

I run old cars, motorcycles and flathead engine boats from the 1940's. It is next to impossible to get a nearby mechanic to work on any of them.The more you know, the better off you are with these old machines. Tony's knowledge and communication style are very valuable to anyone interested in using and preserving "old school" vehicles. Subscribed!

Uncle Tony, Great video. As mentioned here by another viewer, condenser ( capacitor) same beast. The oil in the condenser insulates the two coils (plates) and becomes the dielectric. The substance responsible for storing and releasing the electric force. I recently suffer from memory loss, so 40 + years of my electric/ electronics knowledge is lost. Sometimes some returns. Anyway, points used to come with a small capsule with points grease in it. For me, changing points on my slant six was a bit tricky because of the angle and location of the distributor. Those points screws are short and small, but I never dropped them in the distributor or never lost any... I never felt comfortable pulling a dustributor..You have it down pat being in the business.. To each his own. Great info, thanks Uncle Tony!!

Points are super reliable as long as you keep up the maintenance.

I am happy that I don't have any cars with points or carbs. New plugs and wires every so often and. Your good to go. But, Uncle Tony is spot on with this video. I will add only that while you have the distibutor out, ckeck for wear on the shaft and be sure the felt oilers are lubed or you will be buying a new distributor more often than needed.

Also uncle Tony, a condensor is a battery. a friend of mine got on the school bus,(1977) handed me one and asked if I had ever seen one (he was careful to hold it by the base/sides, I grab it by the sides and slide my thumb/finger down the wire, POW, 40,000 volts! You can put the wire in a spark plug wire with the case on the block, start the car,(charge it) and not touching the wire sit it on a table, it will stay charged a long time and bite the first person who picks it up and completes the circuit! He helped his Dad put points/condenser in their '67 Mercury Comet b4 school and thought it would be a funny joke to light up his friend on the bus.

Ive got a few vids on how a points ignition system works. The condenser is matched to the impedance of the coil windings so that when the points open and the magnetic field collapses the "back EMF" (a voltage that flows back out the low voltage side of the coil) oscillates back and forth between the coil windings and the condenser that produces a lot more energy at the coil than a slow decay of the magnetic field in the coil if there was no condenser. Which is why a poor condenser will cause hard starting due to low coil energy at cranking. The oscillation can be seen on an oscilloscope which we used to use to tune ignition and diagnose faults. The oscillation can be seen on both the primary and secondary side of the coil on the scope because of mutual inductance which to put it simply is that what occurs on the primary side of the coil is reflected on the secondary side. "Back EMF" I refer to is a voltage much greater then 12 v on the primacy side and if you want an example of that hold your finger on the 12v terminal (from the ignition key) of a starter motor as it is cranked and when you release the key to stop cranking you will get a shock from it that is a lot more than 12 volts, and that is what back EMF is and it occurs when 12v is released on any coil winding including relays . In relays you can simply use a reverse bias diode to divert the back EMF to ground to protect its contacts however if we used a reverse bias diode on the points to snub the back EMF it would stop the points burning, but the coil would have low output hence why a condenser is used to increase coil output.

Fyi.. everything Uncle Tony is showing you, as far as setting the gap.. will make sense once it's in front of you.. cam lope, watching the gap, set screw, even the little notch to make make the gap easier.. Have fun.. Thanks Always Uncle Tony

Good stuff never heard a condenser explained in any way that I understand until today thank you Uncle Tony

Tony, I grew up on a farm where we repaired all of our own stuff. My Dad used to be a mechanic and taught me everything he could. I went into the Army as a Heavy wheeled maintenance mechanic and Diesel engine mechanic. I never knew what a condenser was or what it was really doing. No one ever taught me. I just learned how to check and replace it. I was taught to change it every time I replaced points or a coil. I got out of the Army and decided to use my GI bill to go to HVAC school. That is where I finally learned enough to understand what a condenser was, why it was built that way and what it was doing. In HVAC school I learned all about capacitors and the light went on and I finally fit the puzzle together. The condenser is a capacitor. It builds up voltage or energy and matches or nearly matches the output voltage of the ign. Coil. That match reduces the amperage and arc when the contacts open because there is a matching potential voltage on both sides of the point contacts so you don't have a huge current jump between them and burn the metal. It is very important that the condenser value is made to match the ign. Coil value. It took me 24 years to learn that and 2 different trades and schools. Before then it was just do what I tell you and don't worry about why.

I run a set of '60s vintage points on my '72 302 Ford in a '60 Comet. It actually runs a little bit better than it did with a Pertronix setup.

Bringing back stuff I already knew but forgot. I remember my uncle doing this stuff and explaining it to me, but by the time I got my own cars, HEI was the thing. Since I'm a GM at heart, that's what I know. But it is awesome to relearn things.

My Dad had a 1970 Chevy c10 he had a routine of cleaning and adjusting points every 6 months and replacing them once a year. That's how I learned watching dad and when he let me do it. I still prefer Points over electronic any day.

I’m in my 60’s, have lived it, your great.

Never had to mess with points except on old tractors, man learning so much! Thank you sir

I still have my old Sears dwell meter collecting dust after all these years!!! I love the fact that you still teach the good old stuff for the younger generation!!! Hopefully it sinks in!!!

Thank you Uncle Tony for the refresher course. It's been so long since I tinkered with the points and condenser. My 1968 Chevelle SS 396 I'm restoring thanks you too! 👍😁

Boy, I'm glad I came home for lunch!!! Pizza and UT!

Uncle Tony makes it simple and to the point. # 1 in the books.. 👍👍

Rocking it old school because it provides what an engine needs at a lower cost than the best alternatives. I love this stuff-well done Teacher Tony!

I have the exact same dwell meter my Gramps gave me many years ago. Haven't used it in a while, but have used it on some old Jeep's and a Ferd pickup I used to own. Great video brother...show the young guys what's up!!

I'm glad you mentioned at the end of the video about dual point ignitions cuz I was going to ask about those since I had a 69 Dart with a 340 and I had an Accel dual-point which was always fun to set

I remember being 8 years old, sitting in the drivers seat in my dad's 1973 Satellite station wagon, with my dad under the hood yelling "Bump it...bump it...bump it - Damn It, next time don't bump it so hard!...bump it..." as he tried to get the cam in the correct position. I hadn't thought about those times in years. Thanks again Uncle Tony for bringing back those memories.

I have had one of those Sears multi meters since 1986. First motor I built (350 to replace the 307) I installed an HEI with external Accel Super coil kit. So never used the meter for dwell. But it worked perfect as an under hood tach display for tuning the carb and timing. Along with a light and vacuum gage.

Love your rebuild and tune videos. Definitely old school. Such a huge difference with all of the electronics today

Loving these back to back videos tony! I just picked up a barn fresh 230 chevy and I never messed with points so this helps greatly

Wow never in my lifetime have I ever heard someone explain points the way you did you make it so easy to understand I also find your videos very relaxing after working all day

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention. The young dudes at AutoZone and O'Reillys did not know what I was talking about when I asked for points files. They didn't have them. The dude at NAPA knew what I was talking about and had them.....they are cheap. Cheers. Chuck

l find the same issue with new points, they just dont hold up, l have a stash of the old good stuff, well l kinda have a stash of everything,

OMG..I have the same dwell meter from Sears..I bought a 1969z/28 in 1982 for $4000..still have the meter, car is long gone 😭

Love UT's breaker point videos! Takes us back to the 'good ole' days' of regular tune-ups and bragging about good running engines. I remember changing condensers about every third point set... they lasted and lasted 45 years ago.

Hyundia had points until 1986. I had a stellar and the points screw constantly loosened. I got so quick at setting them by eye that I even set them at a stop light while waiting for the light to change. Finally I used loctite to hold them in place.

Great video brother I learned about points growing up my dad made me go outside and watch him and help but I love your videos brother one of the best mechanic and car tech series on KZfaq keep up the good work bro

Thank you UTG!! I have a 63' Ford Galaxie with a 390FE and there's not many guys talking about this stuff which leaves me learning from an awesome MOPAR fanatic such as yourself. I really appreciate you teaching us noobs, knowledge transfer is really important. My father taught me a lot about cars, but it was mostly body work and paint (his profession). God Bless y'all.

Love these old school how to vids Uncle Tony , you have the viewers attention with your knowledge and easy going attitude . You tubers can learn a lot from your channel . Cheers .

As always, another great video from Uncle Tony and Uncle Kathy. Thank you! 😊👍

Brings back a lot of memories Tony is very good at describing this topic on of the best vids I’ve seen on the subject.

This was another electrifying episode. I found Uncle Tony's presentation shocking. Tony really sparks my interest. This really does ignite the conversation. Way ahead of spontaneous combustion. Thanks Uncle Tony.

You might want to discuss the resistor block or wire that reduces voltage from 12 volts down to 8 volts, the reasons for it's inclusion in the circuit and the results of it's absence. Thanks!

Your videos really takes me back! Only a real rookie fell for this, but we used to say “Think fast!” and toss a charged-up condenser to one of the FNG’s in the shop. They’d get a jolt and much shop hilarity would ensue. Of course, now it was *his* turn to do the same thing to the *next* new guy.

I learned something decades ago from my grandpa. I replaced points in my Slant 6 and it ran but had no power compared to where it was before. After much goading he finally came through and looked at it.. The solution was that the bushings in the distributor were worn out. Therefore, there was a wobble and that caused the points under spring tension to be gapped too closely despite using a feeler gauge. Therefore we widened a bit and she went back to running like she was supposed to. Just another trick to keep a worn out piece of equipment rolling down the road-then and now!

Being 20 driving a 1976 chevy luv as my daily commuter and telling the older folks that i just adjusted the points puts a smile other faces keeping classics on the road is not for the faint hearted no power steering no air bags and or automatic transmission you gotta be a real man to drive old vehicles

Made me smile when you pulled out the exact same Sears multimeter that I have...purchased new 40 years ago and still stored in it's original box! And I even have a 1974 car that I use it on...although distinctly not a Mopar (Porsche 914 of all things)!

The last time I was working with points and coils and condenser was in an Old 109 Land Rover series 3. Nice video mate 👍

Condenser (or capacitor) is like a miniature battery that is used to dampen electric surges/stabilize currents (shock absorber). It's 2 metal plates with a dielectric paste (that oil you mention) in between. The input and output are DC currents; it is a polar component (it matters which way you install it). They are used extensively in electronics; this is why it takes a modern car some time after the key is removed to actually shut down - the capacitors have to discharge. Another place you may see them is in welding machines, especially the old ones - they streamline the current so the arc is consistent.

Great to see you covering old school ignition Systems. Enjoy your channel uncle Tony.

I love this points thing and distributor I’ve been working on my boat for quite a long time and there is nobody that knows anything about or is willing to tell you anything about them I have an old Prestolite distributor no longer any parts available have multiple problems with the springs and weights underneath I’m glad you’re making these videos because you’re helping me figure it out

“Care and feeding”. I love it. 👍❤️☮️

I don't own a car with points and never have but Ive watched all your vids on points. You made it really interesting.

Coil = inductor Condenser = capacitor together = a tuned circuit L= inductance C= Capacitance Hence an LC circuit In a perfect match of capacitor to the inductor the points would hardly ever burn. When points do "burn" it is normal to see metal transfer from one contact "point" to the other, one a valley the other a peak. when "dressing" the contact points with a file or what ever, your taking off the high peak and getting the metal clean and shiny. Do clean any reside that may keep the contacts from touching. If contacts burn quickly, the condenser is either bad or not grounded, Bad condenser can also cause no spark, always carry a set of points and condenser in a sealed bag. On really old points it may be worth while to check that they are not stuck on their pivot (they open but will not close back) Been there done that. ALSO... plastic cam contact that can melt if ignition is left on and the points are closed (I think GM's did that?) Many points had phenolic cam blocks that were pretty resistant to heat. All distributors cam lobes need to be wiped down and lubed with about a pencil point worth of lube (any is better than none) Points plates grounding issues Lost ground during points advancing or retarding (that will drive you crazy lol). Distributor shaft bushing/bearings worn out will cause the dwell angel to go wonky easy check easy but not cheap fix... depends on your inventory. Don't get me going on plug wires Great job Tony

This was an excellent video, thanks. In the 70's, when I had an Opel, and needed to set the point gap, the engine had a fan that was coupled to the water pump pulley with a clutch, so you could not just move the fan blade a little to get the points to high cam. I would just put the car in 4th gear and move the car a little forward or back, as needed. And back then, the Bosch points did not last very long. I had much better luck with Standard Blue Streak points, which were vented, and also the 2 surfaces aligned (unlike the Bosch stuff I had tried). A Beetle guy had told me about the Blue Streak points back then.

Hey Tony Great video! Heres something to try: While you have the distributor distributing that high voltage spark at the plug, remove the capacitor lead and youll see that hot spark get noticeably weaker. Maybe so weak it wont light the mixture of fuel and air under compression. Gasoline is not a conductor for electricity so you’re adding a lot of resistance especially under compression. A good capacitor will prolong points life but also gives a higher voltage spark to start the combustion process. In a pinch I would gladly ruin a new set of points to get me home if I didn’t have a replacement condenser/capacitor in the glove box. That combustion chamber is a harsh environment for the spark plugs to operate in and really cant be duplicated by grounding them to metal chassis or vice. I want the hottest spark I can get and the capacitor is a big part of that equation.

When adjusting point gap to achieve correct dwell it's relevant to know that there is an inverse relationship between them; I usually check dwell with the motor running after setting gap. Also, if you are setting points with any regularity, a good eye should get the gap close enough to "get you home." By the way, this is one regard where the "regular" points type of distributor might be considered superior to the "unipoints" type as it's usually a lot easier to see or feel the gap with the distributor in the motor.

I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us Uncle Tony, the video was great!

Please add one more step on rotors and distributor caps. Although it may be common knowledge, just the slightest crack in the housing or burn on the rotor will affect performance. I remember my mid 70 GM motors having a voltage regulator attached to the cap that would always cause problems

Thank you for keeping this knowledge alive. If it’s not passed on to the next generation it will be lost forever.

Points were on the way out right around the time I was getting a license. Now I run a point ignition in an old Cyclone and never knew some of the stuff I saw in this video. Thanks Tony. Now to go order up a file and point loob.

I use "Red-n-Tacky" to lube. Always lasts the 8k or so between check/service intervals I use. Also, I use a Q Tip to add just a smear on the cam. I then use a toothpick to "pile" a small amount actually ON the forward side of the wear block. What happens is that it will perpetually lubricate as the block is eroded.

My Dad taught me this when I was a teen. Good to know , still use that today on my Studebaker. Thank you Tony.

Man i would love to work with this guy. I've been a Journeyman auto Tech since 2008 and I feel like the amount of time that I've invested into the auto world barely qualifies me to understand how smart he is and the extent of his knowledge. Good job man crack a beer cause you deserve it!

Great video. It brings back memories of setting points, something I do less and less often.

I LOVE YOU UNCLE TONY!!!! (in a big brother way,no weird stuff).. Reason I always Loved Big Block Mopars,distributor at the front..My 360 I changed to points on my '78 Magnum was a pain leaning over at the back ,never took it out but man it sure woke that 360 up to a tire burning hot rod ,it really did...No lean burn junk for me! GREAT VIDEO!!! Keep them coming!!!

Picked up a sweet meter in a nice metal case at a rummage sale this year. Haven’t used it yet, but did my first set of points in my 65 f100 this spring when it started running like garbage.

I'm an old school mechanic and grew up with these it's great to see a vid explaining these to the people not familiar with them from a 1st class mechanic

Thanks for your time and shared wisdom Uncle T. Best wishes.

spot on on what a condenser douse! love how the distributor has a set of blue streak points! as for the match book i set it that way as the dwell on points is far from ideal across the rpm range. it is a bit to hi at idle and above 4000 rpm the coil is not charging to its peak so i set it with a match book. as for condensers the insulation over time brakes down and then thy fail and thay do not make hi voltage capacitors that last now . the condenser works the opposite why of a coil it, stores energy on the metal plates as electrostatic charge as opposed to a magnetic one in the coil so the capacitor cancels out sum of the coils kick back as the coil wants to keep charging. thanks for the video top notch !! points rock!!!

Tony, thanks for the trip down memory lane. My '73 Chevy pickup, my pre Mopar days, started shooting ducks AFTER I had installed new points, cap rotor and plugs. What did I forget to do? Replace the condenser! After new condenser, problem solved.

Brings back a lot of memories, great job. 👍

Nice video Tony !!! My professional career as an auto tech began in 1973 and continues to this day. I never pulled a distributor to replace points and condenser. A sign of a bad condenser is badly burnt points. If someone would ever toss you a condenser you never catch it as it was probably "charged" with a spark plug wire from a running engine...lol

Worker like a gentleman, best line ever!

I feel like I should be at a tiny desk attached to a little chair with my notebook and #2 pencil. Always a lesson to learn. I was never without a match book and an xtra set of points in the glove box of my exwife' 74 Super Beatle... Thanks UT for showing me how to do it right!!

Very informative. I remember in an old Harley manual. It actually said to use the cellophane off of a pack of cigarettes to gap the points in the mag. I think it was mid 60s book if I remember correctly. Been a while since way back then.

these videos never get old! thanks for the great info tony

I had a 200 ci 1967 Ford six cylinder that would not keep a consistent gap and I couldn't figure it out, until I discovered 1/16" play in the distributor shaft.

"work like a gentleman" your style says it all 🙂

I'm going with the points setup in my 65 Impala. I thought about E-ignition, but give me the old points set up any day. Cheap and reliable for every day use, and easy to install and adjust.

Points were great at the time. HEY TONY I MADE THOSE DWELL AND TACH METERS WOW! Actron! A condensor was on old term for capacitor! Thanks Tony!

That was some of the best points education I’ve ever had. Thanks man!

Great video, nice way to learn thanks for taking the time.

Hey Uncle Tony, that was a blast from the past. Cheers😊

When i first got hired as a parts guy, I had an older regular come up to the counter. I was pretty nervous cuz I'm new and this guy was in here almost everyday from what I heard. He had a fleet of old school Grand Cherokee's and Grand Wagoner's. So he gets all these parts, and finally he says "Oh, I'm gonna need a rotor too." Now, I was nervous, so I didn't put 2 and 2 together so I go "Ok so we got 2 in stock at 45 bucks each." And he looks at me confused as hell. He says "Fuck that's the most expensive rotor I've heard of. They're only like 5 bucks wtf." And I felt like such a dumbass. Hahahahah. Found him his IGNITION rotor for him for 4 bucks, and left the BRAKE rotor on the shelf. Hahahahahha

Thank you for this video it has been a very long time since I have gapped a set of points I needed a refresher

Nice explanation Tony. I enjoy your videos. The last set of points I did were in a Chevrolet 283 in a cabin cruiser. I’ve had very little exposure to the marine side of things but I was asked if I would do this. What I first noticed about the distributor was that the lower half had the helical gear on the drive that fits the GM engine, but, the top end was unexpected. It was exactly like the top end of the dual point distributor for a 1969 340 Dodge (Prestolite). A GM cap, rotor button, and points set wouldn’t fit it. This distributor was even set up for the maker and breaker points even though it was only getting a single set. I guess the marine industry decided to “Frankenstein” their ignition parts to monopolize on it. That distributor cap, rotor button, and points set (unipoints with condenser) were hideously priced from the marina. The Chrysler dealer said “no longer carried”, have to get it from the jobber. So for this guy’s Chev 283 I ordered a cap, rotor and points for a 1969 Dodge 340 dual point distributor at the jobber. They were there on the shelf all covered in dust, but they had them for about 75% less than the marina wanted.

always learn something new watching you, THANK YOU!

Hi Uncle Tony, I am Chuck in Wildomar, California. Good job Sir! I have two 1930 Ford Model A pickup trucks with original engines (Inline 4s). Also a 1974 Triumph TR6 (Inline 6), and a 1947 Chrysler New Yorker (Inline 8). All have points. Another bit of information for people new to points/condensor/coil ignition systems is that you ALWAYS adjust point gap BEFORE adjusting the engine ignition timing. Point Gap affects Ignition Timing. Cheers., Chuck

Thanks for the great videos! Those horrible Lucas relays also used to go bad, ad they are nothing more than a small coil with a set of points. Add a condenser to the hot wire in, and they last a very long time. Thanks for the tips!

I messed with these things so much, the Chrysler and GM. The tube you showed was electrolytic grease. Non conductive. I used emery boards to break the crown off. Feelers to get close then my dwell meter. Awesome tool and I hope they are still made. I even screwed with a maloy dual point on my Chevy 307. Lit them in two gears.