If you have any questions feel free to ask

Hey all, just an update - I think I may have found the cause on this one. Previously, I've followed other videos, doing the auto levelling followed by Z offset config (centre position). However, doing the manual seems to override this (or at least I think it does). If I do manual point tuning and just leave Z Offset as it is (completely don't go near it), things are a lot better :) I hope this helps anyone with a similar issue

Thank you for the support! 👍👍

I mean you "could" set your E-steps to a negative value. So if you current E-steps are 92, set them to -92. But the only real way to change them is to change #define INVERT_E0_DIR FALSE to TRUE

I have run into this as well. I think this is due to those points, for the G29 J and G29 J2. They arent originally hit during the UBL building process. The 10x10 for me, as an example, only probes 65/100 probe points, and the G29 J2 points are not hit, they are calculated into the mesh. When the G29 J2 command is run, it gets the actual value for those points, which is slightly different than the calculated value, so it adjust the mesh. One way to verify this would be to go in and manually add those probe points after creating the mesh, and then run the G29 J, to see if the mesh changes. I just never bothered with it because my first layers have been so good without manually entering in those points.

I think you are referring to the raspberry pi. This is a raspberry pi 3b+. I use that to run octoprint and printed an enclosure I found off of thingiverse

M420 S1 and G29 A preform the same function. They just turn on and activate bed leveling. So either one will work The four temps in the code perform different functions. M104 Sets the Hotend Temperature M109 Tells the printer to wait until the hotend reaches the M104 temperature M140 Sets Bed Temp M190 Waits for bed temp From your test print. I would advise manual leveling your bed again, you still need to do that every now and then with the bltouch. Next, make sure you build the mesh, save it through the display, then make sure you have G29 L0 to load your saved mesh

What version of the firmware are you using? Also, one thing to try. Home the printer, then use the control>move menu option to move X, pick a value of say X=10, Have your finger on the power button. The print head should move to the right, if it moves left, kill power. Let me know how that works

I still use yellow springs on the E3v2, but on the E5+, I have switched to silicone spacers. While the are not a solid fixed mount solution, they do offer more stability than the yellow springs. Bed leveling is like a once a month issue how, and that's mainly due to making changes on the printer. www.amazon.com/dp/B0894ZB546/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_PMMS5X2G49B5XZ8X0VW1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

@@EB3DPrinting Thanks! I'll definitely buy those silicone spacers.

@@EB3DPrinting I am using the silicon bed spacers and after a short period tyme, after a bed leveling, i have to relevel. The heat affects these spacers after a very short usage tyme

@@imfloridano5448 I have been using silicone spacers for almost a year now. I can't remember the last time I leveled the bed. I wonder if it may be a manufacturing issue.

Have you run a calibration cube? A 20mm x 20mm x 20mm xyz cube? If so, what height has your z axis(vertical) come out? The UBL is only utilized for the first 10mm of the print. After that, it is deactivated. What I'm wondering is that you z axis steps may be off, where it isnt moving the correct distance in the vertical direction and causing your layers to squish together

@@EB3DPrinting I should have mentioned it's happening in the first layer, after that it looks normal.

since you are generating the mesh through the menu, make sure you are saving it after it is generated. An extra step I like to do is save settings through the control menu. This makes sure everything is saved to EEPROM. another thing, when you load the mesh. make sure you are loading the mesh from the same slot you are saving it. To double check, my UBL start gcode after generating the mesh is: G28; Home G29 A; Activate G29 L1; Load G29 J2; Tilt

@@EB3DPrinting I'm pretty sure the wizard asks to save the mesh to the EEPROM when it finishes probing, but I'll make sure to manually save everything. I'll also make sure to specify the mesh slot to load. Thanks for the insights!

@@EB3DPrinting please if you can help me with this. I run the calibration cube 20 x 20 x20 and aways the height vertical is about .30 less then 20mm. I ajust offset many times. what can i do to solve it? thank you for your great videos.

Sorry for the late reply Fan Duct www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296

@@EB3DPrinting ¡Gracias! Muy amable

One thing to try, sometimes the save mesh after building the mesh can be a bit finicky. So go into Control>Save Settings, then go back to manually editing the mesh, see if that helps

The stock ender 3 pro screen will work with klipper. It'll look different, but still function fully. As far as the processor goes, I believe gd32 processors are supported. You'll just have to pick the appropriate processor when building the klipper.bin file

Yes, you will still need to at least activate mesh leveling and load the saved mesh. So after the G28 in the start Gcode add: G29 A G29 L0

@@EB3DPrinting Great, very helpful answer. As i understand from various discussions, the order doesnt needs to be G29A- G29 L0? it can start with G29 L0, followed by G29A? One question about the "Activate leveling": On the machine is an option to activate leveling, an option i often forget to activate. Does the leveling activates with the GCode from my slicer anyway, even when i forget to check the option on the machine?

I was curious about that too.

Without having the printer in front of my, it's hard to tell what might be the problem. I see you typed 420 S1, Im sure you meant M420 S1. This would only not work if your bed mesh isnt saving properly. My three suggestions are: Make sure to have the bed level before running the mesh. I know, the bltouch is supposed to help eliminate the need for bed leveling, but there is an extent to which it can compensate. If your high point is greater than .2mm and your low point is below -.2mm, I'd say re level your bed Second, when building a mesh at the printer with a display, I find it better to double save. After the mesh is built, it will prompt you save. Then back at the leveling screen, there is an option to save current mesh, select that as well. Third, I would stick with G29 after G28, instead of M420 S1, it takes very little time in the grand scheme of things to build a new mesh before every print. I would also try a 5x5 before UBL to see if that helps things. 3x3 is not as consistent as 5x5, for me anyways

Sorry for the late reply Fan Duct www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296

@@EB3DPrinting Thanks! I had found that one previously, was wondering if there was anything newer. Can I ask what material you printed it in?

@@the_bishop I used PETG. Mine is a modified version of that one where I have the 5015 fit in a little better to it's slot. I found the original would break after some time since the bottom part of the fan slot is so thin. I just haven't uploaded my remix yet

@@EB3DPrinting Ok, thanks. I have the step file downloaded, might beef it up a little myself.

Unfortunately, yes. You still have to manual level your bed. While the ubl is effective at making up for variances in bed shape, it's not an end all be all. Generally, you want to shoot for less than 0.2mm between the high spot and low spot of the bed. You can build the mesh, look where your high/low spots are, make adjustments accordingly, then tilt the mesh to see if the adjustments helped. Now once you have it set up, with less than 0.2mm variance, you can get by with just tilting the mesh*. *Now I say this, but have a few recommendations. Make sure you remove your build plate before trying to remove your part. Trying to remove your part while the build plate is still on your printer can mess up the bed level. Let the plate cool completely before removing the part. Try to put the plate back on in the same orientation every time. And lastly, to make the previous steps quite a bit easier, I'd recommend a magnetic PEI sheet as a printing surface.

I usually only tilt the mesh before a print, so I dont really save it. but if you did want to save the mesh after tilting it, you could add M500 to your start g-code after G29 J2. This would save the tilted mesh to eeprom before a print. As far as leveling active, I am not 100% sure of that answer. I have never tried printing without first activating the mesh through the start g-code

Yes, the z adjust itself to follow the contour of the bed This typically isn't displayed because the adjustments are very minimal, typically less than 0.01mm

Yes, you still need the start gcode in order for the printer to use the mesh G29 A G29 L0 G29 J

Did you ever find out anything? I have the same problem

@techno_letsgo seems I was having adhesion issues, where I thought I was to high was due to poor adhesion. So when I was trying to get closer I was to close. Redid level then mesh then used something I swore I wouldnt...glue stick.. problem solved been doing numerous prints since

I would start by saying I haven't really noticed a significant difference between using the standard 5x5 mesh vs a UBL mesh. BUT, that is mainly due to the size of the Ender 3 bed. On my larger printers (ender 5+) I did notice a slight benefit going with UBL. Next UBL vs 5x5 seems to have the same compensation tolerance. It has been my observation that you want your bed within 0.2mm of the high and low spot. It can be more than that, but I wouldn't go higher than 0.4mm. if the variance between high and low spot is >0.4mm, manual level your bed again. Switching from UBL to 5x5 is as simple as flashing the firmware Changing the mesh through the menu affects the mesh saved to the EEPROM slot you have currently loaded.

@@EB3DPrinting thanks for the fast answer! Might come back when I've installed it in the following days

@@EB3DPrinting sorry to ask you again, but what does ,,convert mesh to plane" do? Does it change the mesh/ how is it affected? Or might it be just visual?

@@JB-yu1vv I'm still not quite sure the purpose of that, but basically it converts the mesh into a flat surface at an angle from the high point to the low point

Yes, it would mean your bed surface is quite flat. I think black is within -0.05 - +0.05 variance from high to low

I have my bed dimensions set to 230x230. Then my x purge line at x 0.1

You would just need: G29A G29 L0

Why would you not want to probe the bed before every print? It is not creating a new mesh every time but creating a mesh and then before every print probes a few select points to account for movement/tilt. I'm currently using the 5x5 HS leveling and I think in going to go with the 15x15 UBL so I don't have to wait for the 25 points to probe before watching my first layer mess up just to have to redo the leveling again and again.

@@rileyneufeld7001 Edit: seems you understand this concept lol. Its 6am, just woke up, brain not quite working yet.... this is where G29 J'#' command comes in with ubl. You make one mesh of 225 probe points. That mesh is stored. Add G29 J2 after G29 L0. What J2 does is prove the bed in only 4 points, then adjusts(tilts) your 225 point mesh based off of those 4 points. This is what I use to use with Jyers before switching to klipper.

@@EB3DPrinting I had a question for you, I have been having issue with a high spot in my bed. I have tried Manual mesh, 5x5 and now 15x15 UBL and still cannot get it to lay down a good layer on the right side. Judging by my mesh it doesn't look super high (~.2mm) but enough to get extruder clicks. Do I need to clear my EEPROM? I haven't done that and don't know how to. Thanks.

@@rileyneufeld7001 have you tried rotating your bed yet? Try a 90° rotate to see if the probe will hit the bed in different spots. See if that helps

Are you setting your z offset before running the mesh?

@@EB3DPrinting I’m not, I make sure to zero it out before

That's more likely the problem. You have to set the nozzle height(z offset), before leveling. The z offset is the difference in height between the bltouch tip and the nozzle tip

I would set the z offset first before setting anything else that way you don't forget and mess up the bed by starting a print with an incorrect offset

@@EB3DPrinting thanks. I checked it and it was about 5 or so mm out in each direction because I’m not using the stock mount. Shouldn’t make that much of a difference to the mesh hey

@@GlenEdwards may not make much difference to the mesh, but can affect your mesh limits, could cause the print head to move outside it's range of motion causing your stepper motors to grind

So when viewing the bed mesh, the colors are indicators of the bed level. Red means that area is below tolerance, black means that area is within tolerance, green means that area is above tolerance. So in your case, since the left side is red, turn the left two bed knobs 1/2 a turn clockwise, then turn the right two bed knobs 1/2 turn counterclockwise. Next, under the leveling settings menu option, change "Tilting Mesh Grid Size" value to 2 Back out of that menu, scroll up to Auto Tilt current mesh, then run the auto tilt. After auto tilt is finished, scroll down to mesh viewer and see the new changes to the mesh. Given the nature of creality's glass plates, you will not get a perfectly black mesh, the goal is to get the mesh to acceptable levels. So if your highest red value is below 0.2 and your highest green value is below 0.2, then your mesh is acceptable.

Thank you the bed is nearly all the same colour. Please Stay Safe

E3V2-UBL-BLTouch-10x10-HS-v4.2.7-v1.3.4.bin

Have you tried other firmware versions to see if they probe correctly? Like 3x3 or 5x5? I would check your connections on the bltouch. Make sure your offsets are set correctly. Does the printer move properly, like homing and manual leveling menu?

One question, when you auto home it, does it try to home in the center of the bed, or the front left corner?

@@EB3DPrinting Homes X and Y and then moves the probe over the center of the bed and begins descending.

@@daver3k Ok, the next thing I would check is to make sure the wires are in the correct position in the connectors. smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/ Does the probe check it self when you power it on? Probe tip goes in and out 2 or 3 times?

​@@EB3DPrinting Probe does complete the self check, yes. I'm using the Creality-branded kit for 32-bit boards, so it's got a BL-Touch v3.1 and a wiring harness that plugs directly in to the 5-pin BL-Touch connector on the motherboard (mine is v4.2.2). The wires aren't crossed in the wiring harness connectors, so the pins map correctly. I've tested the wiring harness with my multimeter and I've got good continuity on all five pins. I've also attempted to rule out interference by running the BL-Touch completely away from the printer - I had it plugged into the motherboard but heading out and away, and manually triggered the pin with my finger once the gantry started descending. At this point I feel reasonably confident that it's not a wiring or interference issue. What's weird is that it's intermittent - sometimes the BL-Touch seems to send (or the motherboard/firmware correctly interprets) the "home" signal, the gantry stops, rises a few mm, and then slowly lowers again. But more often than not, the BL-Touch goes red but the printer keeps driving the gantry down, running the nozzle into the print bed. I'm not the only one having this issue, but it's obviously not happening to everyone either. If it correctly homes - and it sometimes does - then I'm able to go create a new mesh, tilt it, start a print, etc - but it's only correctly homing maybe 1/3rd of the time now. I do really appreciate you trying to help me troubleshoot this, as maybe you'll think of something that I haven't, or your experience will help you see something that I don't, but at this point after having checked and re-checked my work a dozen times, I think there's something wrong with either my mainboard, the BL-Touch itself, or (less likely?) a bug in Marlin or Jyers. So you've never seen this behavior? Do you have it wired to the 5-pin connector on your mainboard, or are you wired into Z-endstop?

@@daver3k sorry for the late replies, life is hectic for me at the moment. I have not had or see this kind of issue before. Usually it's the opposite where the z axis just keeps raising. But, I havent used jyers or marlin since my last e3v2 video, I switched over to klipper. So I'm a bit rusty with it. I would agree that it may be a firmware/mb issue. That said, have you tried older versions or jyers, or other versions of bltouch firmware? You could try installing creality's bltouch firmware. I use/used jyers 1.3.2 firmware the last time I used jyers. Last time I used it, there was an issue with multi-color filament and m600 not working. One last thing I want to add. I will say you seem to know what you are doing, but just in case. Do you have the bltouch bracket installed correctly? Meaning that the bltouch tip extends below the nozzle tip?

I have a few videos I'm working on currently, if I can squeeze in a quick offset set and ubl level, I will make a vid

@@EB3DPrinting thanks!

I just uploaded, HD is still processing

Firmware can be found here: github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases I am using the 1.3.2 version of E3V2-UBL-BLTouch-10x10-HS-v4.2.7.bin

You do not need to heat the nozzle for bed leveling, only for adjusting the z offset. This accounts for heat expansion. I typically heat my bed to printing temp, then level the bed. Next, heat my nozzle to about half of my printing temp to avoid oozing when setting the z offset.

Fan Duct www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296

This is a known issue and something I pointed out in my other jyers video. It happens because the probe can not physically reach all points of the print surface due to the nozzle offset. It will end up missing some of the back and right probe points. You can work around this by manually setting each of the missed probe points the same way you would set the z offset, just at the different points around the perimeter of the bed. Ive not bothered with doing that as Ive found that using the G29 P3 command does a decent enough job to guestimate the missed probe points.

@@EB3DPrinting yea ive been using g29 P3 as well and im always surprised when it think a single point in the corner is super high since it never went over there and the other values are all pretty normal haha. Thanks for your response. glad its not just me

Here is my CURA start Gcode: ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; start preheating the bed M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ; start preheating hotend M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; heat to Cura Bed setting M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ; heat to Cura Hotend G28 ; Home all axes ;G29 ; Auto Bed Level ;M420 S1 ; ;G29 L0 ; ;G29 J2 ; G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish CURA End G-Code: G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positionning G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z

As far as the convert mesh to plane. To be honest, I never use it. I quite honestly do not see the purpose, as you take the full 3d contour of the bed surface, which creality's glass plates are known for their uneven surfaces, and make it a flat plane. This would cause the nozzle to not follow the contour of the bed along the z-axis leading to an inconsistent first layer.

@@EB3DPrinting does this work on the v2 aswell?

@@cardinalpawn6467 yes

@@EB3DPrinting do i need to put in the text?

No, the z offset doesn't affect the bed mesh. The z offset stays the same no matter where on the bed the nozzle is. What the bed mesh does is tell the z stepper how far to move the x gantry up or down to keep the z offset the same.

@@EB3DPrinting thanks! I had a lot of trouble the first time I tried UBL with a cr-touch. I'm going to try again with your video.l

@@EB3DPrinting that all said - do you recommend running the mesh before applying the z-offset?

@@MatthewOSullivan no, you should apply the z offset first

I am in the same boat, which is why I dont use it. I just build the mesh, then use G29 J2 to tilt the mesh before every print

If you use the 15x15 mesh. It can probe up to 225 probe points. It may not reach all of those, but it will more likely probe 175+ points. It will take 15-20 min to complete. You only need to do this once, as you can then tilt the bed mesh with as little as 3 probe points before each print. To me, this is way excessive for a small 235x235 bed. I personally only use the 5x5 mesh and do not have any real issues with first layers

@@EB3DPrinting ah thanks, i guess i didnt realize that it was 15x15 points when i was downloading the firmware that makes alot more sense now

Are you using manual mesh, or bltouch? Do you have M420 S1 after g28 in your start gcode? I had an issue with 3x3 as well, I went with 5x5 and it worked much better

@@EB3DPrinting yep I have bl touch and m420 in the code of my test print. I'm gonna try 5 x 5 next, then ubl once I get the leveling down.

@@cody967 if you have a bltouch, just try g29 command to build a mesh before the print. If you dont have a mesh saved to eeprom, that could explain why it's not following the contour of the bed

No, Jyers offers a non-bltouch version of UBL bed leveling. It is built the same way manual mesh is. Only different being that you dont tilt the mesh before every print

@@EB3DPrinting thank you so much for the info… will try it thanks

Make sure you dont have a stray or missing semi-colon somewhere after the G29 J command. If youd like, you could post your start gcode below and I can look it over

@@EB3DPrinting : Ender 3 Custon Start G-code G92 E0 A Reset Extruder G28; Home all axes G29 A G29 LO: G29 J2 G1 22.0 F3000 ; Move 2 Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X0.1 Y20 20.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X0.1 Y200.0 20.3 F1500,0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 XO, 1 Y200.0 20.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 20.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder Gl 22.0 F3000 ; Move 2 Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X5 Y20 20.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish

@@townsend9294 from what you copied, you have an o instead of a 0 for G29 L0. You also have an o after a G1 X command. Change both of them to 0 zero and try

@@EB3DPrinting so i changed everything like you said, made a print went to start another print and it started doing the same thing. but if i restart the print like 9-10 times itll randomly work.

@@townsend9294 Copy this start G-Code into your slicer and give it a try G92 E0 ; G28 ; G29 A ; G29 L0 ; G29 J2 ; G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; G1 X1.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; G1 X1.1 Y100.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; G1 X1.4 Y100.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; G1 X1.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; G92 E0 ; G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ;

EEPROM doesn't show up on the SDCard. EEPROM is the flash memory on the printer's mainboard

@@EB3DPrinting Gotcha, based on this when I begin a print using the start G-Code you posted down in another comment it should pull it and compensate accordingly.

@@j.riefkohl1965 yes, if using the proper start gcode. It will activate, load the mesh from eeprom, then tilt the mesh for current bed, then begin the print

@@EB3DPrinting Got it working and if not for your video I would've thrown the BLTouch at a wall.

@@EB3DPrinting restored my PC, forgot to save the gcode somewhere, couldnt find this video and was going crazy cause i couldnt remember how my gcode was set up

www.thingiverse.com/thing:4736317 Here ya go. Even though this is for the CR6-SE, it will work for the E3v2 since they have the same dimension build plate. This is the best leveling test file I've found to work.

@@EB3DPrinting Thank you!

And on a side note… I saw a video showing that jyers went up to 300c for the hot end…. Well mine still only goes to 260c??? Don’t have a metal hot end yet so not the end of the world here but any idea how I can get above 260c on jyers for when I do get a metal hot end??

what is your start gcode like for bed leveling? also as far as temp, that im not sure of. I would think you would need a custom version of jyers for 300C because stock printers do not support going that high, and for safety reasons, I could see them not implementing that on "stock" jyers configs

@@EB3DPrinting Start G-code was set up following your video… that all seems correct… bed temp used was 65c for leveling and setting z offset….. I have a pei build plate… it was very nice and flat but I guess it or the magnetic bed has developed a bit of a warp… currently trimming the bed out with some aluminum tape…. But it wasn’t very bad anyways…. All corners were about 0.02mm higher than the middle. I was expecting the mesh to be able to follow that but it doesn’t seem like it is. It’s not a big deal for 90 percent of prints that don’t take up most the plate but wanting to do a few prints that do take up most the plate lol.

And I brought up the temp because a different KZfaqr (Victor) can’t remember his last name showed his printer going to 300c with jyers and said it was a benefit of the firmware, with the disclosure to have metal hot end and thermistor before going that high

It can be done without the probe, but it will be built the same way as you would a 5x5 bi linear manual mesh. It will not look like how it does with the probe. The difference between manual UBL mesh and manual bi linear mesh is how the bed map is calculated. You also have the option to tilt the UBL mesh before the print.

@@EB3DPrinting manual mesh Will then be more user friendly i guess. Thanks!

@@zierbeek not necessarily. Manual UBL and Manual Bi linear meshes are built the exact same way. One key feature with UBL is you can manually tilt the UBL mesh before each print which only takes a minimum of three probe points. This would help increase mesh accuracy between prints. Unless you plan on doing a completely new manual bi linear mesh before every print

@@EB3DPrinting allright, thanks for thé clarification!

@@EB3DPrinting a video about silencing thé Ender 3 v2 possible? :)

No, you can use the default version, or one of the manual mesh versions. They do not require a bltouch

There can be quite a few things going on. Is it just the purge line that prints off the bed?

@@EB3DPrinting It was. I adjusted the Z offset, and it helped. I'm still running into issues, though. I've done everything, added the GCode and still can't get quality 1st layers. It's like it doesn't use the mesh that I tell it to load and do a tilt check on (even though I've confirmed all the right gcode is there). I swear I'm getting worse quality prints trying to use this, than before. So frustrating. I thought this would help account for all the micro bed variations, where I just can't seem to get the bed level enough.

@@Cw0707 being completely honest, it's a bit overkill for ender 3 style printers. I use the 5x5 HS mesh with fantastic results.

Make sure the SD card is FAT32 formatted. Make sure the SD card only has the firmware on it. Make sure the firmware has a unique name, try to rename the bin file. These are just some simple suggestions as I don't know what all you've tried yet

@@EB3DPrinting That happened to me as well , but by just having the bin file it loaded fine. thanks

Not if you built the mesh using the printer. Jyers firmware does that.

You shouldnt have to do any firmware editing to get this to work with the MS DD most of the settings that change are able to be edited on the printer (x/y/z offsets) or through slicer(retraction speed/distance)

@@EB3DPrinting I’m fairly new to this. Is there a video for reference? I looked for and Ender 3 v2 with Micro Swiss Upgrades and they are all just putting the components on. Had nothing to do with after installation.

@@jerryhoward614 I dont know of a guide per say, but if you follow the instructions on the last page of MS install docx, that should help get you started cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1210/0176/files/Micro_Swiss_Direct_Drive_Extruder_For_Ender_5_Installation_Instructions.pdf

In my opinion it is. You build the mesh once, then just tilt it before every print. It does seem to work better than the standard mesh. Another plus side is you can build multiple meshes. So if you use a PEI sheet and a glass bed, you can have a mesh for each

@@EB3DPrinting yes i do use for a while now but i don´t notice that mutch diference . Only in time! is a shame that firmware only can save 2 meshs

That could depend on how you have the bltouch connected. If you have a two plug bltouch instead of the official single plug, check the photos here to make sure its connected properly. smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/

Lol how do you think I feel having to listen to myself when editing these videos

@@EB3DPrinting Haha! If you find a way to dial up the enthusiasm a little I guarantee your subscriber numbers will sky rocket. Your info is very thorough. You just need to work on presentation a little. Again not trying to be mean. Just being honest. Keep up the great work

@@patricknolan797 no, I appreciate the feedback and I agree. It's one of the main reasons I don't push for likes/subs and Patreon. Thank you for the encouragement though, I will work on improving it in future videos

It basically is an onscreen prompt to send M420 S1(S1 being active, S0 being deactive) to the EEPROM. This means that if you were to print from the SD card, it would load the last saved mesh. Typically this is a non-issue because most start gcodes have M420 S1 or G29 L0 in them

@@EB3DPrinting Thanks for that I have been trying for a while to get that confirmed.