You’re very welcome.

It really is a superior measurement system. I work in the automotive industry so I have to know it and I’ve just about fully converted over, at least with lengths.

old tool and die machinist here who also repairs watches as a hobby. work in both imperial and had to learn metric which I think is the natural progression. It's superior to imperial and well...just makes sense. I think it's easier too.

As a americ it make me happy to hear from our buddies across the pond. I’m 48 growing up working on my own stuff motorcycle,3wheelers,4wheelers. Mostly Japanese. (Honda) I ride the best lol used to metric system to. I like both makes for a expensive toolbox 🧰 especially for poor ole hillbilly. Because all my motorized stuff back then u know about second hand well these where usually 4-5 even sixth hand lol. Well y’all. These little Unimat idk. Don’t get um. Lol. U will love um parts (accessories) more than price gold. U will have to have this and want that need those. So if you like treasure hunts spending $ not finding treasures I say go for it the treasure is in the 200$ piece you made cause accessories had buy when could got bolt from hardware store for buck minty nine. 1.99$. Lol. But how fun would that be anyone can run to hardware store. Hey I made that. Lol. Love to all are unimat db/200 sl/1000 owners. Little love to y’all unimat 3 owners with ur m14 threads. Ha there accessories are everywhere. Get u some m12-1.0 threads stuff then will talk. lol. Y’all know I’m just kidding having good time. I wish would ask for one back n 80 around 10 years old sears wishbook had them quite expensive little suckers back then to but wow boy has value went up. Well guy and gals. I’m starting to ramble on so will leave ya with a stay safe make something even if a $500 watchumacallit. From ur ole hillbilly buddy. Unimat s rule.

As a Brit having just brought a 1950 Velocette MAC I am going back to imperial ;-)

True- although it is strange to hear them referring to 'rpms' instead of 'rpm'- the minute is singular. Will take a while for them to get Hz... BTW the US car industry has been metric since the mid 70s.

Yeah it really “wakes it up”. When I first got it I was kinda disappointed but adding this changed my mind completely and makes it more enjoyable. I even switch some tools to carbide insert tooling (set from Harbor Freight) and it works great since it now has the power that carbide needs. And no problem sharing the link.

@@TheVintageEngineer I mentioned you in my video. I hope others can learn from your video as much as I did. Please upload more videos about your Unimat. Cheers.

Everybody is looking for a cheap upgrade after they spent all their money on those official accessories. Wow do they command a premium.

@@TheVintageEngineer yes sir. The littler the machine more accessories cost I think 🤔

@@TheVintageEngineer yeah I’m doing that to mine going to go with brushless 1/5 rc motor but there 200-400$ good one. Probably do what you done. Looks like got more than enough power the machine can handle.

After doing this mod, I wouldn’t hesitate getting one with a bad motor. Use it as a bargaining tool to get that price down.

You won’t be disappointed. I actually got frustrated with the factory motor when I first got it and just about sold it. I’m serious when I say it feels like a different machine.

@@TheVintageEngineer Just got my motor, and was able to drill out the 2nd hole just like yours. It's a little less meaty behind that section on my plate but it still holds. Also, I accidentally pulled out the armature (just like you warned at 19:14) but the brushes didn't break. They crashed into each other but I was able to take apart the whole case and get them back into place. Next, I need to wait for the power supply and controller and pulley, lol, then I'll be all set. Thanks for this video, it was very inspiring and confidence-building.

@@DavidPlass if you happen to feel like you need more material, you can get some aluminum brazing rod and build it up. I tried Bernzomatic brand and didn’t like it but the Hobart Brand is good.

@@TheVintageEngineer so far it's holding so I'm not going to push my luck!

So what’s your thoughts after upgrading?

I like it very much. I also have the quick change tool post that you have. These two upgrades make the machine much more enjoyable to use. Before, I hated changing the position of the belts because I knew I would get a finger pinched in doing so. The one thing I did different than you did, l made an adapter plate to mount the motor.

@@franciscoflores7911 yeah the quick change tool post is an absolute must as well. Good to hear

Can you tell me please where to buy the quick change tool post? thanks!

@@andresflute I bought it off of ebay. I did a quick search a minute ago but it appears that the vendor I bought it from does not have a listing for them anymore. The seller goes by hkoesnadi on ebay. You might contact them, maybe they still have them but just not listed. Good luck.

You going with the same size motor?

@@TheVintageEngineer no it's a 90 watt. We'll see how it goes. Right now it's all disassembled for inspection, cleanup and grease. The thing is in near mint condition and hasn't really been touched in 50+ years

@@TheVintageEngineer wish I woulda seen your vid first I might have gone a different direction! Think I'm going off your links and modify a new pulley instead of the other way around. Did you drill the shaft and put in a key pin like the original or stay with just the setscrews?

@@TheVintageEngineer I'm only a couple days into this so alot more to come.

@@machinistmikethetinkerer4827 just a set screw, holding pretty well. Everything old tool I have I try not to modify in case I sell it and I know others don’t like modifications. If it wasn’t for that I would probably have bored the original pulley. But it wouldn’t be hard to just make another one.

Yes but not as much as before.

You can just wire a switch between the plug and the power supply. I printed an enclosure for the wiring end of the power supply and added an IEC320 C14 inlet port with integrated fuse and switch. Same plug you see on desktop computer power supplies.

I found it on eBay from a seller in California. His eBay about is “hkoesnadi”

@@TheVintageEngineer yesterday i got my steel holder (china). Today the upgrade motor will arive . Thanks for the inspiration!

Done a couple little projects with it and was able to switch to carbide tooling (much better surface finish). But I haven’t had time to get back into it lately. I did pick up a Craftsman 6” lathe (same as Atlas 618) and I’ve seen Popular Mechanics articles showing a Mount for the Unimat to be used on the Atlas carriage. Would be great for cutting keyways on a shaft. Great thing about the Atlas is it has a built in indexing feature with I believe 60 stops.

eBay seller has them. Name is hkoesnadi. They post these up maybe 1 or 2 times a month and the sell usually within a couple of days so keep an eye out. Comes with 2 standard holders, one for 3/8 boring bar, one for flat blade parting tool, and one that holds a dremel for a toolpost grinder.

@@TheVintageEngineer Thank you, I'll keep an eye out for his listing.

@@ywong91301 I just talked to him the other day. He's pretty much out of stock but is steadily making more and will put it up soon. His shop makes some great stuff, including QD tool post, travel indicator snugs sine tables, a real easy rotary table amongst others. He's out of NOCAL and sells out fast so keep eyes peeled. I've bought a few things from him. Quality sturdy american work.

It’s a Hasler Speed Indicator (patented in 1918). Look on eBay.

I would keep it. Even though the dc motor is variable speed it still has limitations at super slow speed. I configure the pulley setup to get me in the rpm range and the use the speed control to tune it better. Plus doesn’t the pulley bracket act as a spring retainer for the quill spring? Can’t remember off the top of my head.

Oh I plan on keeping all of it for sure but you are correct-the quill spring is retained by the bracket and can't be used without it.

@@TheVintageEngineer I should have mentioned there are two pulley/mounts available-the one that ships with the kit and the slow-speed sold as an accessory. I happen to have both. Might make more sense to ya.

@@machinistmikethetinkerer4827 oh ok. I know the main reason they came out with the slow speed bracket (2 idler pulleys) was to slow down the speed significantly for the thread cutting attachment. Original single idler should suffice.

@@TheVintageEngineer agreed. I juuuust picked up a slow speed bracket, it arrived today. Now I don't know what I'm going to do with it. I don't have the thread attachment. Not sure if I ever will. You ever done any knurling on your Unimat?

You can get get rid of the speed controller and just run the motor off a 24v power supply, if you don’t want variable speed.

Going more power might be a waste. I don’t think you would be able to do a higher Depth of cut because of the small round ways. I actually had a spare 250 watt motor from a razor e300 scooter but the form factor is more like a pancake so the diameter was too big. So extra fabrication. Do I like it? I think it might be the best bang for getting buck upgrade. Higher depth of cut and not having to worry about overheating the motor are the biggest pluses. I actually tried it with carbide inserts after the video and it work really well, which I always heard carbide requires more power than HSS. Make sure you either build an enclosure or at least have the components in an area where chips/swarf won’t hit it. Don’t want anything shorting out.

@@TheVintageEngineer Thank you very much for all the information. I will definitely follow your tips. I appreciate it.

Hasler Speed Indicator. It’s about 100 years old.

I found it below, thanks

I think I paid a little over $200

Already seen your Unimat ones but I’ll definitely take a look at the Sherline ones now.

now I gotta go back and watch your Sherline stuff.

Isn't the sherline powerful enough already? I have honestly never been able to stall that damned sherline motor haha! And that is cutting stainless too.

@@martinpanev6651 I bought my Sherline used and the motor was faulty. It wasn't operating at full power. Unfortunately the Sherline motors are expensive and difficult to source where I live so it was easier and more cost effective to change the whole thing.

@@machinist_matt Oh, that makes so mich more sense! I watched your video on the sherline a while back when you posted it but i dont think i was listening that much haha

It’s a Hasler Speed indicator and it’s about 100 years old. Patented in 1919. Probably find some on eBay.