Great explanations - loads of stuff makes sense to me now! Thanks for sharing

Ha....exactly the mods I wanted to make. Actualy the lead screws are the ones that I've changed even before watching this video. But the custom belt holder was indeed my very first thought when I saw the instructions saying "drill a hole in the belt"....what??? A big thank you to the good people on youtube for sharing their knowledge and experience with us noobs.

Great video! Best way to set the probe I have seen.

looking forward to seeing how it prints

Great Video! I'm now a little more willing to mess with my Anet A8. It would be really cool to see a video like this for adding a second nozzle.

many thanks for this information. Will make my journey into auto levelling much easier now! :-)

Great video makes me a little more confident in messing with this junk, I have had a bad experience in the past lol. Anyways I was thinking a fun video might be showing people how to add music for when a print has finished I have done it before you can do it through the steppers or through the LCD speaker so one is a "printing song" one will play after you finish your print. It is neat because there are a lot of people who have figured out plenty of little tunes to play so you don't have too. Thanks see you in the next one

Great work!

Notice the output from M501 also tell which M-code in Merlin that set them. You also have those codes in Configuration.h So do a M501 and then search the M-codes and change. To check the code when you change, you can test-compile with the check command in the IDE, you don't need to upload it.

ISTR getting 5V from the spare motor driver socket on my Geetech board when I added a capacitive sensor.

Great video. Thank you.

Thanks for sharing. My problem is "static assertion failed: RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION is outside the probe region. " How can i solve it ?

This is a great Video! I like your teaching style. My printers name is Clarence (lol)!

You talk about the M501 (or M503) command, which actually reads and displays the eeprom settings in the printer. There is little point in changing your configuration.h file (apart from completeness) because the eeprom setting override those in configuration.h anyway on startup. The only reason for setting configuration.h tobe the sameis if you ever want to clear down your eeprom settings.

You don't need to solder anything onto the controller - there's any empty motor driver slot, you can just use a standard jumper cable to get 5V and Ground from that instead (assuming you don't have a 6th stepper motor being used for dual extrusion). Otherwise great upgrades!

Oooooooiiieee, thanks guy!

Hi, can we upgrade the CTC printer (the one with the angry bird) with the auto level?

how do I get the parts to upgrade my folger tech i3. I would to add the auto bed leveler (the one you show in the video) and a fan end blower for the bed. where can I get a kit?

Could I ask you? I did set z-offset by EEPROM (M500), after that I'd reloaded Marlin firmware. Is my offset still hold on?

I’ll be doing this to my 3D printer in the future. Do you happen to have the DIY for the install? I subbed and TY!

hi ,i am unable to get windows 10 to recognise the gt2560 board,the driver from there site don't work,i have even tried it on an old windows xp and had the same problem..(i have even got a spare board and that don't work too).any ideas guys..many thanks.

hi, just to update on my problem with the geeetech gt2560 cheep clone and for any one else that may be having the same problems ( i think you can determine this by the lack of any markings on the back of the board,the proper board has),well it turns out that there is not a boot loader flashed onto the board!..fortunately this can be remedied,with the aid of a Arduino uno,there area a few tuber blogs showing you how to carry out this process, once done you can load and update your marlin firmware to your hearts content!

you can upgrade it also with changing bed glass with aluminium and on that you can put M3 9080A sticker, it is the best what I have now you can even don't need to use brim anymore. I will also change nozzle with J6 and bowden drive. now I am adding filament sensor, which will pause printing when end of filament

i like the board cooler you made can i find that someware so that i can print it myselve? And i did order the sensor you have and th 3dtouch just to be safe one needs to work. lol

Howdy, are you still going to do the video on the auto bed leveling for the Anycubic Kossel Pulley version ? I would like to donate and get the files and firmware for that. Thanks.

Any chance of a copy of original Fw, my GT2560 Rev. A has had problem since i upgraded to Marlin. Have tried Geeetech website, but think that is even a updated version.

I bought a how to add a PL-08N proximity sensor following watching this video. Where do I plug it into on my gt2560 board? It has a 3 pin connection on the end to connect it to the board. Any help greatly received

You have a bad sensor or wrong model on the round form factor, I use a normally open version and it detects foil under my bed just fine using 5 volts. It even has a pretty long range of around 3-5 mm of height.

I have a Geeetech Aluminum Prusa I3 and am looking to replace the mainboard due to strange printing issues. Would you still recommend a GT2560? I was considering a SKR v1.3 or a RAMPS board, but I although I have been 3D printing for a number of years on different printers, I have always just used the OEM boards. Any advice is welcome.

I have the same printer and banging my head for 4 days, because sensor just doesn't work. I have connected this sensor to Z_MAX and same settings in marlin like here. Can someone help me with this to work?

If you have your printer setup already, save your self some time & Skip to 20:22 if you want to find out how to configure your Z Probe. Your Welcome.

I've just ordered this Persa i3 Pro B printer from Geeetech, I'm currently looking for a frame upgrade because I want to replace the Acrylic frame. About the sensor, Is there anything else I need to attach and get it auto levelling? Can I just buy the sensor and attach it and that's it? Can you please advice me on the best place to buy Mods, Upgrades and the Stepper sticks?

Hi, Did the same you did but i have Version 1.1.9 and a inductive sensors like you did show in video but my is a NPN so revers of the one you have. All did go wel i think at homing X=OK Y=OK Z=will not stop going down need to reset. And i cant find what i did wronge??

can i use only 1 z axis stepper for this purpose?

I like the clear frame. I got a black one :(

If anyone is interested in the information actually given in the title, it doesn't start until 8:39 and isn't very detailed.

dont you need bootloader for these firmware upgrades?

putting the spool on top is a VERY BAD idea... the vibrations caused by the Y axis movement will just multiply and cause wobbling on the print...

can you update this to Marlin V1.1.9?

This is an oldie. Old auto play on KZfaq

Dear respected friends, I followed you all the instruction but when I give G29 command, it start to 9 points as I given GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3. But problem is that, it move Y-axis accurately but toward X axis, it is moving just few milliliter and start to move toward Y-axis. Following this process it takes 9 points but X displacement is just few millimeter not covering entire bed. Please could anyone help me?

You know, I think these devices are over-rated. First, they don't level the bed. Their real purpose is to compensate for an uneven bed surface. The hype is very misleading. I have tried the BLTouch, and didn't like it. I have been printing without it and my prints are fine. To compensate for an uneven bed surface, the BLTouch makes your first few layers as uneven as your build plate. How does this produce a better print? It doesn't. I recently switched to direct drive, and many of the problems I was having with the Bowden setup are gone. Because of it, I prefer direct drive.

You rely too much on the 3d touch. Neither the motherboard nor the 3d touch knows anything about the build surface, excepting only the few individual points on the bed that the sensor checks, and even then it only knows the distance in space relative to the end of the nozzle of those specific points. Bubbles, wrinkles, or any other defect in the build surface are invisible to the machine. If you print over a wrinkle or a bubble, the machine thinks it is perfectly flat, so does not change anything to the extrusion. The height or depth of any imperfection in the bed surface, as the case may be, WILL affect first layer extrusion at that point, and possibly every layer close to that area afterwards. The air trapped within a bubble will act like a variable spring when the nozzle goes over it, as it is laying down a layer of molten plastic, and will cause a ripple to go through the plastic layers on top of the bubble. Think of what happens when you squeeze a balloon in your hand and you will see what I am talking about. A trapped air bubble is no different than a balloon. At the very least, it will cause the first several layers to be way too thin, then it will cause the nozzle to dig into the plastic with every pass until the plastic is as tall as the trapped air inside the bubble -- at the very least. Too big or tall of a bubble, and the nozzle will catch and tear the foil.

DOES NOT WORK

I got a clone for like $100