Ha ha, I see what you did there. Thanks!

Nice! You are welcome!

Awesome! Very cool to see it helped you. More Marlin videos to come.

Thanks! I am glad it helped you out.

Awesome! Glad it helped you.

Thanks!

Thanks Stuart, that's awesome to hear!

KUKULCANGOD Awesome, glad the video was helpful.

Thanks Brian, glad it helped you out!

Excellent! Glad it helped you out!

Italo Zimbaldi Awesome! Thanks for the comment, it's good to hear it's working for you.

Thanks! Glad it helped you out.

You are very welcome!

You bet! Thank you

Thank you very much for the comment. I am very glad it helped. Thank you for watching. :)

Thank you for this comment! Glad the videos help you.

@@ChrisRiley so far the level sensor is the single most useful upgrade to my cheapest amazon printer yet.

Awesome, I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

You bet!

Awesome! Glad it helped.

Thanks so much Neil! I am glad these have helped and will do my best to keep them coming.

I have a question I’m hoping you can PLEASE answer, because I trawled google and asked everywhere in the Facebook groups: I have a CR-10S with a PrintBite sheet on the aluminum bed, using an inductive sensor I set up with this video; my problem is the probe isn’t giving consistent measurements all over the bed. In one place it’s too close and gives nearly clear lines, another (mainly the back) it squishes more and gives a thicker first layer and nearer the front it’s about right. The only consistent thing is every time I probe the bed, it does exactly the same thing in each of those areas with regards to how the layer goes down. The bed is fixed (no springs), the bed heater is off and I’ve tried over and over setting up the probe sensitivity. The only way I can overcome it is to use M421 and manually adjust the mesh points myself. What could it be please? Bad sensor maybe? A list of check points would be really handy. I appreciate how busy you must be, but I’m literally at my wits end and considering going back to manual mesh leveling. Thank you 🙏

@@neiljclements Hey, sure, happy to help. Let start here. Connect to the printer with Pronterface and run a g28 then a g29. When it is done it will spit out a map of the bed. What does that look like? Get pronterface here if you need it. www.pronterface.com/

AWESOME! Glad it worked out for you!

if you own a NPN NC/ NO sensor you can wire your Z endstop as normal in parallel with the sensor. When the Z endstop is triggered it will close or open the circuit to ground/ possitive and cause a trigger which is the same trigger in the code for the NPN sensor. Just be sure to wire the micro switch in the same NO or NC position to match your sensor and splice it into the wires going into your Z endstop on the mainboard.

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching

Awesome! Thanks!

You are welcome.

Thanks Paul! Glad it was helpful.

Nils Björkman You are welcome.

Thanks, George!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

You are very welcome, thanks for watching.

for sale here - www.3dmaxprinter.com/shop/parts/touch-auto-bed-leveling-sensor-for-3d-printer/

Thanks! Glad it was helpful.

Dustin Wooldridge Awesome! Thanks for the comment. Glad it worked out.

Thanks! Glad it helped.

Awesome, I'm glad it worked out for you.

Thank you very much! It is on the list!

Great! Thanks for the feedback!

Sweet build!

Thanks for watching

Nice!

Thanks! I am glad to hear it!

Thanks for the complement and thanks for watching.

Thanks for the comment, great to hear others perspective.

Awesome, glad to hear it.

Sweet! You're welcome!

Thanks for watching Frank!

Paul Pardee Excellent!

You bet! Glad it helped you.

Awesome Tony, glad it was helpful.

Thanks! Anytime!

Du bist herzlich Willkommen!

Ha ha ha! Thanks for the comment! That's good info to have. I have a metal cut to length place close to me, I need to head over there and take a look around. Have a good one!

Thanks for watching! Eeprom still gets me all the time. I usually just disable it altogether if I can until I get my firmware all setup.

Thank you, just saved my life

@@ai9862 Youre a hero!

44mod Thanks for the comment, I am glad it helped you out.

sijah ak Thank you! More to come.

Thanks, LOG is still cranking away.

i know i have asked you this before but how good is the log? is it dependable like a Mk2 or do you have a bit so and so on the print quality?

It's so so, its not as dependable as the MK2. If the print quality on the MK2 was a 10, the log would be about a 7. I think if it had a real E3D hot end, a nicer main board and some nicer linear bearings It would probably work much better. Then if I could get a hold of an MK42 bed, then we might get close to the real thing.

if you get the mk2,5 upgrade then you would have a spare mk42 bed. Thats a thought :)

EspenShampoo25 I know man, so tempting.

Thanks! Glad you liked it.

Nice! I am glad this was helpful!

Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Thanks for watching.

Great suggestion! I'll see what I can do.

You're welcome! Doh! I have done that a time or two. Marlin 2.0 is a bit different I noticed. I just redid this video for 2.0 in fact.

Check out Tom's build videos. This is what I followed. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pbyHf9OnytHGqWQ.html

Thanks! It definitely takes some guess work out of it.

You're welcome!

The size of the model being printed you mean? If so, that should be adjusted accordingly.

Glad I could help, thanks so much for the coffees!

Neil Black Awesome! Nice work!

You have to use the Arduino IDE and you can only write, you can't read. So you need a copy of Marlin (or other firmware) that is configured for your printer or you have to configure it from scratch. Link to IDE www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Link to Marlin: marlinfw.org/ Thanks for watching, sorry there isn't an easier way to edit the config, you might see if your printer manufacture has a copy you can use.

You bet!

Yep, you can use it on that port, just comment out #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN

Yes, you should see the Z adjust the height up to a certain point it will stop if fade height is set, but it should be doing it on the first 10mm or so. Unless your bed is super level.

I have heard of that and I have tried to get one. Seems like everytime I look they are sold out. As far as accuracy, I think they would both achieve the same results. The Piezo however would be really handy because you would be leveling right at the nozzle. That would work great on deltas.

Nice! We probably just need to refresh the eeprom. M502 followed by M500 with restore the Marlin coded defaults.

Giovani Oliveira Awesome!

Hey Michael, Is there anything in the M851 field on the M503 output? If might be eeprom causing you issues. I would do a M502 and M500 just to be safe and make sure you are pulling the right values.

Hey man, video on this coming on Wednesday.

Think of it this way...in a perfect world your nozzle would be at Z 0 when its at home. Any upwarded movement from Z would be positive. In FDM 3D printing you would never need to go into the negative to print. You only go into the negative to adjust your offset. So you would want to be at 0 or close to it, 0.2mm maybe. And your nozzle is 1mm higher than that at home because of the probe sensing distance. So your offset must be -0.8 to get the nozzle 0.8mm closer to the print bed for print time. Hopefully I explained that well.

The configuration.h is going to be a little different on the Delta, but for the most part the steps should be the same.

I use pronterface www.pronterface.com/

Thats pronterface www.pronterface.com/

You bet! Thanks for watching. If that is the case, you will probably need to enable Z save homing. #define Z_SAFE_HOMING Take the comment off of that line.

Ahhhh....G33, yeah that is sequence that has some magic to it. Let me give it a try with a touch sensor and see what I come up with.

I used www.thingiverse.com/thing:1976680 to construct a switch probe. I tried to follow the mentioned steps, but I think the Z offsets are not quite right for the added fixture (v2). Even still, I see it go through the motions and UBL steps produced a table of values but way high, 17+ mm off the bed. There is mention of a fade height. But no mention of why its important , what it does, or why 10mm is recommended. My main problem on the anycubic delta is accuracy and initial layer. 50mm square is not at the 0.0125 mm as indicated by anycubic. I was hoping auto calibration would assist here, but perhaps I am asking too much.

Thanks!

If you flash your firmware, you will lose all your custom settings. There is no way to do a backup from the existing firmware on the board. The best you can do is run an M503, record those settings and try to load them into a new version.

Hey Marlon the process is going to be really close to the ender 2 and I did that in this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hZhhZZl4mdWzY2Q.html

Marlin changed they way these options were used at some point. You should be able to uncomment Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN to resolve it.

That's strange, with the DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE enabled try a M111 S32 then run your G29, see if that gives you the info you need.

That is precisely what I did. Ran my M111 S32 command and then G29. I am on Marlin 1.1.8 running clean with no issues whatsoever. I will try again.

Ahhhhh, today it worked, weird. I am sure I make a mistake some where along the way. Anyway thank you very much for your time and your great videos.

You stumped me, so I glad it is working now. :)

Flip flop your endstop logic. Z min and Z probe.

You need to comment out Z_SAFE_Homing to change that.

My first thought is maybe you have something in eeprom that is messing you up. If there is a Z851 command listed that is probably affecting it. I would run M502 them M500 and try again first before I did anything else.

@@ChrisRiley Gotcha. The procedure has been disconnect from pronterface > change Z0 in firmware > upload > home + bed level + jog to mechanical zero. It worked when I did it the first couple of times, dunno why it isn't working now but I'll give that a shot. Thanks!

Thanks for watching, glad you found it helpful. Prusa is currently developing a temp calculator in the firmware to try to combat this type of issue. I have tested it with little success so far. The best thing I have found for this is babystepping. Check out this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ZtakksVjv8_egYE.htmlm21s This will let you adjust the offset on the fly. Not a great fix, but it works for me.

I just slightly adjust the Z offset on the front panel when changing filament type. MUCH simpler than faffing around changing firmware!

@@djtaylorutube What printer do use? Do you use babystepping?

@@ChrisRiley Malyan M150. In fact, I can change bed entirely and get back to working very quickly by using a semi automanualmatic method. What I do is set up a print that has nozzle temp set to 0 and make sure there's no plastic stuck to the bottom. Heat the nozzle to normal temperature. Find Z with G28 and leave the nozzle where it is. Then get the piece of paper out and manually nudge Z down by 0.1 increments and sum up the offset to the point where the paper under the nozzle is grabbed as per a normal level process. Take that value and add it to the existing Z offset via the front panel and save. Next, start my fake print with the hot end set at 0 degrees and as soon as it starts layer 1, pause the print and just check that the paper slides under the nozzle. Because the hot end is off, there's less expansion and the paper has a bit more gap. This step is really just me checking that all is as intended. Then start a proper print and depending on filament type, I find that within a couple of attempts, I just have to nudge the z offset 0.1 a couple of times or even 0.05 and I'm dialed in for that filament type. E.g. changing ABS fit different ABS requires no change but swap to PLA might need a couple of offset nudges to tune. Other than that, very straightforward. It sounds more effort than it is. Takes me 5 mins max.

@@djtaylorutube Very cool! Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for watching! Great feedback, thank you, will do!

:)

The quickest fix for this issue is to set Z safe homing. You can alter bed size, but safe homing is easier. It will home in the center. Give that a try uncomment this line. //#define Z_SAFE_HOMING

thanks Chris. Great video and fast response. I'm sorry, but I'm just not getting things to work right for me. I followed your setting and the video, but something isn't right. The system is always pulling up regardless of what i put in to the z-offset. I put in a -50 value to just test it and it does the same thing. I can do a G28, get the bed home. Then G29 then center and Z0 and it will be .5mm off the bed. I can set the offset to 10 or -0 and the head will still zero to .5mm. This is the frustrating part. As I understand it, the firmware z-offster from extruder should set the absolutet value offset. So I should be able to crash tthe head, but I can't. Any thoughts?

More than likely you have something saved in eeprom. Comment the #define eeprom option out and re-reupload you should be better results.

You probably saved my life with this response. Thank you so very much. I'm still not really clear on why Marlin keeps firmware settings the way it does, but I chose to comment out //#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands. This worked. If I understand correctly. the M500 command stores values to eeprom that won't be overwritten when reflashing. (not sure why). I think that an M502 would "read in" the current configuration.h and replace any junk in the memory, follow that with an M500 to store it all properly again. I think that's what I read. If that's the case, then I'm not sure why more folks don't make that an absolute must when flashing. anyway. Thanks again. It's working now, though I haven't turned the EePROM_SETTINGS back on yet.

Yes, you are correct, you can M502 then M500 to pull everything from firmware and save it. I just comment it out to be 100% sure then go back and enable it later. It is handy to use when tuning so you can change settings via command line and they will be stored through reboots, but it has a tendency to make things confusing.

That is pronterface www.pronterface.com/

For RAMPS I recommend you get a 5v sensor and just plug it directly into the Z min endstop plug.

Send me your configuration.h file and I will take a look. brotherchris81@gmail.com

Yes, that will build a mesh.

This doesn't transfer well, but I will give it a try. Pronterface isn't laid out well. It you hit +Y the bed is going to slide to the front on the printer, -Y it will move to the back. So you are ok there. If the probe is left and front of the hotend those will be negative values. As far as the compensation, 6cm is pretty large, but it's best effort, just let it probe where it can. Hope this was close to the answer, let me know. * +-- BACK ---+ * | | * L | (+) P | R

Well.... I have placed the sensor and have put in the values mentioned in the vlog, but how hard I try..... it won't home in the middle of the bed. It homes at X72 instead of 111. Where the 39 offset comes from... Haven't got a clue. No sensor is activated. When I give the G0 x110 Y110 F3000. Y does it thing, and X stops at 72. Z stops when the probe senses the bed and then goes up 10. (I have seen a script for doing this somewhere for stowing / travelling). Any clue to where I may find the answer?

Never mind.... My printer is haunted. Yesterday all day problems... today... Homes well, bed levels good...

It could, there are a lot of options for things like that now a days. github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap

@@ChrisRiley That would make a great follow-on to your four-part Geeetech I3 Pro B refurbishment series which was excellent.