Glad to help

master fabricator Thank you!

Agreed! His method is better than Josh's

You gotta do what you gotta do sometimes lol. Glad you got it fixed

Jonathan Rees I lost one of the nuts so I replaced it. I just used a small impact and a dab of loctite. There are two nylon locking nuts in there somewhere but i forget the location. Thanks for the support

MicTheGreaseMonkey you can do them on the car with some finesse. The control arms would be a bit of a pain on the car but just doing the subframe shouldn’t be bad. Remember to get the cradle lined up best you can when you’re finished

The sub frame bushings are very easy to do on the car. Do one side at a time and when you lower one side down, put a socket in between the top of the bushing and the body and jack the sub back up. This will force the bushing out. That all being said, it would be better to drop the entire sub frame and rear as this video outlines and do everything in one shot. Nice video.

Zo6LS7427 I did not, there is a little trick to modify the control arm mount to adjust camber that works much better. There is not much room for adjustment inside the bushing itself

Please tell of this trick. I've installed the adjustable bushings on my gto and they are total pita to adjust. I know gforce engineering offers to modify your rear control arms to allow for wider tires as well as get your camber close to zero.

Hook937 please do a video on that modification. I have 15x10 slicks on my car and have never been able to achieve lower than -.5 camber.

Never had a single issues out of it

@@hook937 thank you for the reply I have read all sorts of things regarding the grease

LSteve 6.0 a transmission floor jack similar to this. Mine was not as highs quality but same concept www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-917051

Hook937 okay yeah i might look at a local place for one , i will be trying to change my bushings soon also. Just scared messing with the axles taking them off then not put them back on right

LSteve 6.0 I’ve have my axles in and out several times. It shouldn’t be an issue, last time I had them out for several days. Just cover the holes to prevent dirt from getting inside the diff. If you want you can remove the axle stub from the axle and leave it in the diff all together. 6 bolts on each side, if you do that just use loctite putting it back together and make sure to not get grease on the bolts

Hook937 okay i will give it a try thank you 🤝

JEREMY BARNES honestly I want to make a video on this but I’ve been out of the country for the last 6 months. Basically the issue is the inner/most forward rear control arm mount is to low. It needs to be cut, plated and a new mounting hole created to move the mounting point up effectively adding positive camber. Gforce1320 has a kit that is very similar to what I’m speaking of, the only issue with their kit is it’s made for lowered GTO’s on coil overs. For drag racing the rear is only squared under launch. You’d actually want to add some positive camber because on launch the wheels will want to camber back in. You can hit me up in Instagram @hook937 and we can talk more if you’d like. Thanks for supporting the Channel and watching. Hoping to be home soon and more content coming at ya!

I actually upgraded to solid mounts and when I used the tool it was spot on. I wouldn’t imagine it could be off since they are solid.

Are the Solid mounts decent for a daily driver? Meaning noise and comfort.