Great Vid! I have a 79 GS850 given to me. Has not been running right for over 15 years, that’s how it ended up in my garage a few months ago! I’ve been tinkering as a weekend project and this video helped tremendously for the spark issue I was having! I’m not much of a pro by any means, just a KZfaq certified kinda guy. My bike has the “other style” of condenser plate and components, but the concept is still the same for the gap adjustment! What a huge difference, thank you! It’s bone stock and all original plastics and body parts. I’m going to turn it into a back road runner for the part of Michigan I live in! Definitely will be checking out more of your videos from the detail you put in!

Thanks for the very clear video. I thought if the points surface looked even and not pitted, they were fine. My 1978 GS 1000 has very week spark and runs poorly (was great a couple years ago). My headlight is very dim and sometimes I have to mess with the ignition switch to get the starter to engage, I bought a connector cleaner set and will clean all the 45 year old connections, hoping to get full current to the coils and headlight.

Tremendously helpful. Thank you.

Top job 👍

Hey monk! I am struggling to understand how to set my ignition advance on 78 gs550e using the advance tool could you helped by explaining what marks I use F T or II to set my advance THANK YOU! your videos have helped alot!

I will buy a suzuki gs550. but it does not have the platinum plate or the platinums. where could i buy both parts

,sir how are you, greetings! Can you tell me how to connect the logic lamp? Thank you

Heres a question, why does my light stay on while I open and close the gap?

Just curious why you didnt upgrade to electronic ignition.

Regarding Daiichi points, Motorcycle Spares Warehouse part # DK-39 R/L seems to fit my 1978 with Kiko... They are in Australia, shipping is expensive and slow, $43 or so total. I can get static timing dialed in, but the primary breaker plate (#1/4) must be twisted almost fully CW, secondary plate (#2/3) fully CCW. I’m a bit worried that I have no adjustment when it comes time (months away) to check with a timing light. Advance mechanism removed/dismantled/cleaned/lubed/reinstalled, shows little wear and seems to work smoothly. I watched your surgery on the K&N points, can you recommend a course of action (hopefully short of breaker plate modification) to give me adjustment room? Is this situation indicative of something enough know of?

UM I have basically the same bike cept mine is a 77, I switched to the electronic ignition and it's like a brand new bike.

when I have done this on my '77 KZ1000, I set the cam to just a hair from F and then adjusted to make the light barely go out. I think it works better because of the progression of the timing as you turn the cam. BTW I can get $1000 more for a 40 year old motorcycle if it is completely stock. In your case, you are making a custom cafe, so unless you are selling to the OEM motor and drivetrain crowd, I'd have upgraded to electronic. But, the OEM motor and drivetrain crowd have very deep pockets and they will pay out the yingyang for a Steampunk Cafe with OEM motor and drivetrain, so I assume you are keeping your options open and don't need to unload the racer fast. I like your video. Unfortunately, my kids say you sound like me, diving too deep, and boring. How is thoroughly explaining things diving too deep? You made a mistake with the light, why keep it in? Because 50% of the viewers using this as an instructional will do it too. But not now that they saw you do it.