Super cool AIRBRUSH!!!!!?!?!??!? Asshθ£e😂😂😂😂 You rock

The only off-brand primer horror stories I've ever experienced was always with white sprays. Rusto 2x is the only off-brand I trust besides Krylon Camouflage which are easily the best (Though they don't have a white, or even a gray. Just khaki, sand, brown, olive, and black), but even then the Rusto 2x matte flat white always does my minis dirty (Splotches or frosts, no matter what prep precautions I try).

I 3D print resin minis and I have found that the Rusto 2X is perfect every time, I always wait overnight for the paint to properly dry and I have never had the sticky primer problem. now I kind of understand why, great video ! My go to is the white and the 50% grey, I dont like to start with black primer because it make the rest of painting an up hill battle for brightness, I like to start white then airbrush on color shadows. and I never airbrush prime, the Rusto is the only thing tough enough to endure my drybrushing.

I use Rust-Oleum too. I find that tackyness is often caused by lack of humidity. Giving a spritz of water will harden them up when they are tacky.

I remember the nightmare of spray priming reaper bones line of figures. Weeks until the tackiness went away. Nice information here! I just found your channel and subscribed. Keep up the great work! -John

Krylon camo black is the best matt black paint/primer I've ever used. It sprays so fine and it drys almost instantly.

I didn’t know you could achieve this look with cheap spray paint. Really cool

So, I use spray can primers for minis and larger figurines, and I don’t notice any degradation in detail. But I use a very light touch. My friend, however, is much more heavy handed and often lets the spray accumulate and puddle. His method definitely obscures detail leaves a sticky residue which remains sticky forever.

The only time I had issues with using a spray primer was doing so during the winter. Cold temperatures can affect how the paint dries. Also while the paint does thin out as it dries, maintain a 6 inch distance between your miniature and the paint can nozzle. You can over saturate and clog details if you are close as well as hyper focus one spot. For the newbies, make sure you are in a well vented area or outside when priming. Also see about getting a respirator mask from the hardware store. They are better at protecting your lungs than the paper masks. As for aerosol brands, I recommend the Rust-Oleum 2x paint and primer or just the primer. They come in a variety of colors and have an awesome finish. You can find it for a reasonable price at most hardware stores like Home Depot.

Awesome video. I have recently embarked on this same cheaper spray primer quest, and purchased a few rustoleum primers, and 2 x coverage primers. Both left all the minis sticky, and I ended up priming over them with GW primers. 2 other super important factors to consider are nozzle clog (not a punk band) and really high paint flow rate! Rustoleum is designed to lay down paint fast! Not designed for mini painting, but more for priming patio furniture! Needs more distance

The issues I had with hardware store rattle cans ended up being operator error. Quick, broad sprays starting & ending pointing away from the target model eliminated issues like over-spray and splatter. Great tips in the video and the comments, thanks!

Two things: 1) Nearly all plastics are hard and clear if the manufacturer doesn't do something to change that. Soft minis have an added plasticizer so that they can be more easily ejected from the molding machine and so that they're less likely to shatter. I'm pretty sure that the problem with spray primer and soft minis is an interaction between the plasticizer and the solvent in the paint. Note that even if you don't have a sticky surface right after priming a soft mini with a rattle can, the mini can later develop that kind of surface. 2) Testors Spray Lacquer comes in two different forms: Glosscote and Dullcote. It can be difficult to determine which you have for some labels, but definitely look for one of those two words on the label, because they are definitely not the same.

Krylon ColorMaxx range is AMAZING for priming minis and their Flat Black is a perfect 1:1 match to Vallejo model color black.

4:44 Wow, I'm so impressed! I've never played War of the Ring, but aren't those minis super tiny? You have achieved a lot of detail for that tiny miniature! Also, the lava painting earlier in the video looks great too! You should consider a "how to" video for that one

Rust-Oleum and Krylon flat Camouflage are my favorite for standard paint. Rust-Oleum 2x is what I use for Xpress paint.

I've had good luck with Rustoleum grey and black, but the white can go on a little thick.

I plan to prime with an airbrush in the near future, however The Krylon 5x matte primers have worked great for me, and I won’t completely ditch them when I need something fast. I’ve only been in the hobby for a year and I never bought into the expensive hobby primer sprays that Citadel sells($22 a can?! GTFO with that nonsense!) One of the first videos I saw when getting into the hobby was Vinny V’s video on primer where he said: “the only difference between the Rustoleum and GW, is you pay more for the other, that is it”

Good info. Just an FYI: Aubergine is what Europeans call eggplants and is pronounced “oh bur jean”.

Rustoleum makes Dulcoat in big-ass cans and sells it at WalMart. They call it "Clear Topcoat: Dead Flat". Much cheaper than the tiny cans.

I use Rust Oleum Camouflage flat black for hard plastic, but for BG minis I prefer Vallejo Primer with the airbrush.

Threhane sir! You EVIL GENIUS YOU!!!

I've used the cheap no name brand Wal-Mart paints as a base primer for 30 years now with no issues. I can't see ever changing that.

I used rustolium all the time it's decent enough. But since I got my airbrush I used Vallejo it definitely goes on thinner and smoother but you would expect that.

Very nice video, definitely subbing👍

I use Rusto 2 as primer and have never had any problems, on hard plastic, resin and metal, but never soft plastic. I use a traditional matt varnish though, usually Army Painter or Valejo. If I use speed paints, i always use Matt varnish, after gloss varnish.

i use the rustoleum primer my self. I love it

Army painter matte black occasionally crystallizes weird chunks onto my minis

I feel like I’ve watched every rattle can primer video on KZfaq and my biggest conclusion is that nobody really knows for sure. From my personal experience: I’ve only used Rustoleum so far. Paint + Primer takes a long time to dry, even in high heat & low humidity but once it dries it seems fine. The primer without paint goes on thin and dries immediately

Rust-oleum 2x flat white for hard plastics and a brush on for soft. I haven't had many problems aside from the random dust cloud but that's on me not being patient and waiting for a low wind day.

Fun fact about rustoleum, they make a lot of the hobby sprays on the market. Testors and model masters sprays are the exact same things as their main line but in larger cans for a reduced price. This is a quote directly from Rustoleum too when you ask them what the difference is. Every hobby brand doesn't make their own spray paints as it requires very special tooling which costs millions which most of these companies can not afford so they outsource it to industrial coatings companies. So automotive sprays actually can be much better and cheaper than most of the hobby products on the market. You can compare MSDS's to main suppliers and figure out what is needed. Paint companies just do colors to spec of the client not binder or anything else.

Here's an old-timer trick if you only need a little paint on primer for just a few minis. Take a small 3oz Dixie cup, point the spray primer down into it, cover with a paper towel, and spray for a bit. You can make a small puddle of primer you can paint on your minis without the side effects. 😉

I've always stuck with the "cheap stuff" for the three decades I've been doing this, and have never had major issues doing so. It makes me wince, seeing the price tag on those GW rattle cans. If you've got the space to set it up, and you're paying those exorbitant prices, I highly recommend just skipping five cans and buying a compressor for an air brush instead.

I havn’t painted a lot of minis overall. But most of those have been battlemechs. From others recommendations I got some spray primer. And either due to the paint of my inability to control the paint I did loose details on those battlemechs. Again, this could have easily been my issue of control and improper spray distance. The paint was rust-oleum grey primer

Warm the can in hot water before using.Better spray,better finish..js

I airbrush prime my minis typically, humid af here in the PNW so rattlecans can be a little picky. Except during the summer or terrain where i rattlecan for convenience. I typically use rustoleum primer and it has never once given me a problem. Tbf tho i use citadels death guard green on my... death guard and that stuff is fantastic. Their chaos black works well too but im not a fan of the finish and why would i pay 4 times the price for something rustoleum does and equally good job as - for me better because i like the finish more. Varnishes though i refuse to use anything other than testors dullcote. It has never once let me down and.... rustoleum makes it says so right on the can. That said rustoleums matt varnish doesnt compare so i wonder if its a proprietary formula rustoleum makes and packages for testors. Lastly AVOID ARMY PAINTER PRIMER AT ALL COST i feel like im in the minority here but i hate the stuff. Never once have i gotten a good prime stuff is crazy picky. Always gums up details and goes on gloopy. Stick with rustoleum and/or citadel

i use the rustoleum brand dull laquer it smells the same as dull cote when spraying

These tips are great! Can go beyond to other hobbies as well. Do you have a rattle can spray paint setup indoors?

I found to get the best results. DO NOT spray them in direct sunlight on a hot day. They will sometime bake in the air.

good tips thank you

I use rattllecans of 3$ each, they're bad, but the coats are thin, so the detail persist, then only one thin coat of brush primer and they're ready to go

Base coat with cheap craft paints like apple barrel. Sticks to spray paint better than model paints. A wash will do the samme, giving just enough micro texture for your model paints to grab onto. My only issue with the spray paint is the finish is too smooth to directly apply gw paint to, but the craft paints have no problem with this.

Does anyone have any experience with Krylon Matt finish UV resistant varnish? I realized I bought a fair amount of that (instead of the 1311 version mentioned in the video) prior.

Ive been using these for years

I hate people saying "cheap". I realize they are cheaper dollar wise than "hobby" primers/paints but "cheap" makes them sound low quality which isn't the case. The paints you buy in the DIY or automotive stores are designed for outdoor use. Pretty sure outdoors are harsher than Cheetos fingers. 😅😅😅 I have never bought a "hobby" rattle can paint in my life. $30 Citadel paints are no better than $6 Krylon paints. If you can get Krylon camouflage do it. The black is the best black undercoat you can ever buy. Blows the "hobby" primers out of the water. And no, DIY rattle can primers/paints aren't THICKER than "hobby" primers

I have 5 3/4 full cans of 2x rustoleum flat primer that wont spray. All my hobby primer sprays. Even 3-4 year old citadel

I use the rostoleum for mine

The only sticky minis I have ever encountered is reaper bones.

Huh. I never considered NOT using the cheap spray paint from Walmart.

All very well. But get contradictory reports, cheap/car shop, or bespoke spray primer, ie citadel. Some mini tutorials say One thing, cheap speckles, and ALWAYS buy Good Stuff. HELP!

Maybe you should stop experimenting on huge batches of minis and do one at a time to see

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