Glad you enjoyed it!

@@HowFarmsWork must have the frame rate set pretty high to get such cool slo mo. Awesome!

It sure is.👍

Awesome! Thank you!

Run the pto slower and rake when the alfalfa is still a little green and the rotary will loose less leaves than any other rake.

@@Anteater6788 there is no way in hell I’d ever use anything resembling a Tedder. No matter what you do you are going to loose a ton of leaves and that’s a no no in alfalfa. .

I have raked a lot of alfalfa with a rotary rake and if operated correctly they will loose less leaves than any other rake, it's just like you walked along with a pitch fork and flipped the hay over.

We do alfalfa and clover with our New Holland ProRotor... pretty much the same rake as this Kuhn. We think it treats the leaves better than our old bar rake. These don't tumble the grass over and over like a bar rake. You have to see it working to get a good appreciation of how well they work.

Thanks 👍

Glad you like them!

Hey Darrin! Have a great fourth weekend!

@@HowFarmsWork You too buddy!

They're on a cam and track system

@@HowFarmsWork yea, I figured it had to be some roller or something. That’s pretty cool

A ton of moving parts LOL:) OL J R :)

Free music for creators or he uses an online service that provides a selection of music for a nominal fee... OL J R :)

It is a Tim the Toolman,there is never overpower. It is much better to have too much power than not enough on the farm. When I was a wee kid in Idaho, we first cut the hay flat,let dry,then went out racked it,then baled it and hauled it in. Now,there are many different ways to process hay. I have seen it cuved,small bale,large bale,large round bale,and supposedly the vest chopped. According to what I have read it is better to chop it,siko it and the hat actually starts to ferment before being feed to the cows.

He ran a merger last year... OL J R :)

If you got enough acres and big enough fields sure... and can afford one. They're BIGG $$$$$$... especially when you can get more raking width for less money with a wheel rake... OL J R :)

Each arm runs in a cam track that rotates them as they revolve past the "release point" OL J R :)

It does a good job at getting the wetter material out and on top.

Yep that's what rakes do... that's why they call it a WINDROW... it piles the hay up into a row that the wind can move through to carry away moisture. I see a lot of guys leaving hay out to roast in the sun a week and then raking right ahead of the baler, but they're TOTALLY missing the point of having a rake. Hay should be raked when it hits about 50% moisture... that's basically WILTED FLAT. When you cut hay, it will still be "fluffy" due to the plant having sufficient internal water to support the cell walls, but as it dries down it "wilts" and flattens out under gravity due to water loss and the cells "deflating" as water comes out of them in the curing process. Hence it "wilts flat". The forage at that point will STILL have a pretty lush green color but will not have the "luster" or shininess of freshly cut forage, since it's drying down. It will still be very limber and soft at that point. That's when the rake it up into windrows. Raking it into windrows minimizes the amount of hay being exposed to DIRECT sunlight, and thus UV rays, which "sunburn" the hay and cause the conversion of carotene in the hay to Vitamin D, which means its irretrievably lost. Cattle make their own Vitamin D in their skin (as we do) and the carotene is a valuable nutrient that can be used many different ways if it's preserved in the forage. Basically raking the hay into a windrow means only the hay on the outside layer is getting fried by the sun, while the hay inside the windrow is up off the ground and exposed to airflow and heat from the sun heating the outer layer of the windrow which speeds drying, as the air coming into the windrow absorbs moisture from the inside and then goes out with the breeze as new air comes in. Hay laying flat on the ground takes longer to dry *IF* the ground is WET or DAMP, than hay in a windrow. That's why they set their mowers to "swath" hay up there usually-- let the ground dry out and then rake it so the hay ends up on dry ground so it dries better. Down here that's not much of a problem usually and sun exposure of UV is the biggest killer of hay quality. SO usually hay is cut and laid out flat here, problem is most guys leave it there til they're ready to bale, and that's too long. We rake 24 hours after cutting, and generally bale 24 hours after that, and have hay at a good dry storage moisture level. We also have a good green color in the dry hay, something TOTALLY LOST in hay left to roast flat on the ground for 4-5 days to a week. You also lose VERY LITTLE leaf when raking at 50% moisture, while waiting til the hay is ready to bale, you lose TONS of leaves, even in grasses which are much tougher than alfalfa, but still MOST of the feed value is in the leaves not stems regardless of whether it's grass, forb, or legume... Later! OL J R :)

I'll be on the boat on the river that day!

I don’t like to if we don’t have to do so. It’s another time handling the crop and leads to leaf loss on the alfalfa. Grass it’s not so bad

Rake. They made dual use rake/tedders but these only rake IIRC. OL J R :)

Why would yea

@@jeremyfreeman717 More horsepower and torque

@@keydanasefa8438 for what.

Why would he? Only going to cost him money for very little benefit. The kit costs money, burns more fuel, and will probably end up pushing that tired old engine to the point of needing a rebuild. And in actual use if you’re really working the tractor with those turbo kits you end up creating a lot more heat and can’t work the machine all day due to overheating issues. Sounds cool in theory, and for a tractor that is more show and fun rather than a reliable nice handy sized work horse for reasonable tasks.

@@jeremyfreeman717 pulling wagons and mowing and other jobs

How do you mean backwards?

@@kieranosullivan02 Clockwise rotor instead of counter clockwise.

@@kieranosullivan02 LH delivery instead of RH I guess... OL J R:)

Freebie from the company use what they brung ya LOL:) OL J R :)

This rake picks up much more material so it leaves less behind.

@@HowFarmsWork I'll buy that Ryan but doesn't it feel slow compared to your high capacity? With good wheels they dont leave much behind. It leaves a nicer windrow hands down. No balling up either. But I like fast.

@@davedunn2124 it’s much slower than the V rake, but that rake isn’t typically suited for first crop because of the density and moisture if it wasn’t tedded.

Yeah every time I hear that "overpower is underrated" baloney I think "you must not keep track of the fuel your burning LOL:) I mean ya use what you got and the 4020 is the smallest tractor they got, and they only have 3 tractors so yeah you use what you got, but still... You get my meaning LOL:) OL J R :)

@@lukestrawwalker absolutely 👍🏾

SO you leave the tractor you got in the shed and go spend $10,000 for a smaller old tractor?? That's brilliant LOL:) OL J R :)

Bringing that shroud in helped make more consistent rows, but they were a lot tighter and would dry less. It also doesn't rope like the V-rake does which feeds into the baler better.

@@HowFarmsWork u are running pto to fast

Too fast on the engine speed (PTO speed) and too slow on the ground speed (grab a gear and idle back would solve that) and set the curtain in some to make a tighter windrow... Like most machinery, the job it does is directly affected by how it's set up and operated-- correct adjustment and operation of the machine will produce good/excellent results, while poor adjustment or incorrect operation will produce substandard results. In the end it all comes down to the OPERATOR and them having the knowledge and EXPERIENCE to set the machine up and operate it properly. Doesn't matter if it's the newest and greatest thing on the planet if it's not set up and run right it's gonna do a substandard job, even compared to an older or well worn piece of machinery that is properly maintained and set and operated right for the conditions. That's what most guys don't get. They buy the BS that "new" automatically means "better" when it really doesn't! Seeing how Ryan said they've never had any experience with a rotary rake before, I think some mistakes are to be expected. It takes time to get the experience to really set things up right and make adjustments for the conditions to do the best job. There's a learning curve to everything-- nobody's just "great" at something the first time out of the box. Would've helped if the Kuhn guy dropped by when he was going to the field with it and gave him some pointers and setup help right off the bat... That and READ THE MANUAL cover to cover a time or two-- usually there's good hints in there and tells you the "gotchas" to watch for and how to fix them without scratching your head for hours wondering why it's doing this or that. Seen guys talk about this machine or that machine being "junk" because of the "lousy job" it does, when basically they never read the friggin book and had NO CLUE WTF they were doing... same machine in the hands of an EXPERIENCED OPERATOR who adjusted it and ran it properly did a terrific job! That's been my experience anyway! OL J R :)

Why do you say that? It does a better job at grabbing all the hay on the ground and doesn't leave chunks behind like our bar rake.

@@HowFarmsWork Time is money, that rake is a toy. You got the rake for FREE!

@@gregorydayton5428 Time is money, which is why we used both rakes to get the job done in half the time.

They're not "junk", it all depends on the job you're doing and where you're doing it. Europe loves the d#mn things, so do horse hay and dairy guys in the US trying to get top dollar for their hay or maximize milk production or whatever... they claim they put less "ash" (dust and dirt) in the windrow so that equates to higher milk production and brings a premium value on the hay. For the regular beef cattle guy a wheel rake is 'good enough' and does the job for about half the cost of what that rake costs new. That rake is PTO powered, has a gearbox to maintain and which is VERY expensive to repair/replace, TONS of moving parts, and lots of wear items like the cam track and cam followers which don't last forever either. If they ever hit anything you can pretty much write it off because whatever gets bent will never rake right again pretty much, and it'll cost a fortune to rebuild. BUT they do a nice job; probably the most complicated way POSSIBLE to do the same job that any other rake can do, even if they put a little more dirt in the windrow or whatever. That's why they make lots of different rakes-- you can buy the rotary rake, you can buy a new wheel rake, or you can buy a new bar rake. Wheel rakes are the cheapest and widest for the money, though they tend to put more dirt in the windrow, and can have issues in some conditions depending on the design (always better IMHO to have the wheels in front of the frame for that reason). The plus side is they're VERY simple, direct ground driven with no gearboxes or shafts or joints or anything. Bar rakes when set right can make just as clean and fluffy a windrow as a rotary rake, and don't put dirt in the windrow (unfortunately most guys seem to try to use them as a tillage tool, scraping the ground trying to get every single blade of grass in the windrow, which NO rake will do with 100% efficiency). They have more moving parts than a wheel rake but are MUCH more durable than rotary rakes, and MUCH cheaper than rotaries as well. They're not as wide as wheel rake of course unless you get a multi-basket one or a bridge hitch and pull a pair of bar rakes like we do. SO in the end it basically comes down to 1) what you're raking, 2) what you're intended market/use for the hay is, and 3) personal choice and how much money you want to spend. There is no "one size fits all" in farming. I'd never buy a rotary because a bar or wheel rake will do the job I'm doing much cheaper and simpler with less repairs and cost, but that doesn't mean they don't have a place in someone else's operation. Later! OL J R : )

@@HowFarmsWork Yeah if you were gonna buy anything though, I'd say get a bridge hitch for a few hundred to a couple grand and another used bar rake and do the same job twice as fast for a fraction of the cost, but that's just me. I know this rotary is out there as a freebie demo for them to get some free advertising on it... Later! OL J R :)