+Busaru thank you for posting this video. I just successfully replaced my blower motor thanks in part to the tips and tricks learned here. Two things I did differently: instead of using zip ties or clips to reattach the halves of the heater box, I drilled pilot holes through the welded tabs and secured them with sheet metal screws (17 in all, I believe); secondly, I relocated my blower motor resistor to the grill area behind the passenger side headlight (similar to the radiator fan resistor located behind the driver's side headlight) with an extended 12 AWG wire loom; it's now surrounded a by non-flammable/non-meltable metal area, is always in fresh airflow, and can be easily changed when the time comes.

Props to you guys for taking this on. Looks terrifying.

Wonderful instruction video. Thank you for taking the time to share your experience. Will make mine much easier knowing what to do.!

I learned the deal on those bolts from a friend who has been a mechanic in the 70s. They are called “shear” bolts, as they come with a nut on the head for installation that Shears off when the appropriate torque is reached. These are to keep you from removing them. He said that they always just welded new nuts on them after removing to make it easier if they had to remove them again.

Great informative video, planning on doing this soon, all the basics covered:)

Thanks for the video! Saved me a lot of trouble. Found out a #3 Easy Out and an impact driver makes quick work of those security fasteners.

Diggin the videos man! Nicely done. Getting educated for when I can afford a 4x Vanagon.

IVE HAD ALL THE PARTS TO DO THIS FOR LAST TWO YEARS , I BEEN FREAKED BY ALL THE HORROR STORIES , IVE WATCHED THIS VIDEO NUMEROUS TIMES AND IM GOING FOR IT .....I THINK

Very much appreciate your videos!

Thanks for sharing. I'm about to attempt the same operation on my 1984 Westfalia.

I vaguely recall doing this on my '83 in the cold. Couldn't split the plastic cases in place, then I removed it and brought it into warmth, the sealant around the perimeter softened and voila.

thnk you for doing this video..i will being this job next week. weeee.

I am doing a PWM upgrade. I think it's a good mod and worth doing while I have gone to the trouble of taking the dash apart.

Blower was working fine, until the #10 fuse blew. Thought it was the wiper motor, but turns out it blows when I turn on the heater blower. So, must be seized, eh! Will order a new one to replace it. Looking forward to doing the job now that I know how. Any comments on the fuse blowing?

My heater cable snapped, thankfully with the heat vent closed. Live in S CA so not an issue BUT I’d like to fix it. Does the dash HAVE TO come out? Or could I some how snake the new heater cable to the original (I can see it/access it) and maybe get away with not removing the dash. This looks hard, and I’ll gonna break stuff on the old gal… Great vid. Thx for posting

zip tie idea is great..

First off... LOVE the videos. Now my question. Is it necessary/mandatory to replace the blower motor? I am a huge believer in, "if someone can make something, then someone can take it apart, fix it, and put it back together". My fan motor stopped working, but instead of buying a new one, I thought why not try to fix it. After seeing all the CRUD that was in my blower box (dirt, feathers, bugs, leaves, etc.) I figured clean the motor up, clean it out, and see if it works. Well so far, so good. All it cost me was a can of Lectra-Motive Electric Parts Cleaner, a few shop rags, a few blasts from my air compressor, and a little electric motor oil. The amount of CRUD that came out of the motor was amazing. I wish I could of gotten the actual motor apart to do a FULL service on it... but... it blows (big-time) without any noise or bad smell. Just wanted to share... and keep those videos coming. P.S... living in Georgia, having a heater isn't really mandatory... it just bugged me that it didn't work.

My hero. I will never do this.

Tell me guys what is the auxillary water pump at the rear on the Vanagon, Someone tells me it is there to rotate the coolant from the back to the front Radiator. Mine has been dis connected now I want to get my heater working again. Do I need this pump? As the hoses have been disconnected and bridged. I purchsed a 1995 Vanagon. I want to get everything original working on it.

great video! We just bought an '85. The heater controls are stuck near center. It blows hot air constantly. Is this the issue you had, or do you have any recommendations?

One bad thing about moving the resistor pack outside the air box is that I'm fairly sure the rush of air in the box is supposed to cool the resistor pack to keep it happy.

Great vid...thanks. Question: I've seen a couple videos of dash removal, but nobody shows how to remove the instrumentation knobs. Do you just physically pull them off, or do you do something from the back side like unscrew something? On another note, my brakes are very suspect. I can slam them down and the van will ease to a stop while I was expecting it to screech to a stop (almost ran into a couple of folks). It seems I'm hitting "bottom" quite quickly when I slam it home. Brake performance is ~ 15% improved if I pump them once before applying. I've replaced the MC (and brake sensors), I've bled all six zerks (Mitivac pulling dirty fluid out) and my indi says my pads and rotors are ok and that sometimes this is just how the Vanagon is (I call BS). Why do I still have crappy brakes? Would appreciate any, I mean ANY, advice or tips.

Hi Busaru, Just a quick question as i'm currently doing this job myself. I noticed that you place the resistor on the outside of the heater unit for ease of access, but aren't you worried that the resistor will get too hot as they do and melt the plastic casing?

I have a question for you. Do you have (or know of a video somewhere) that shows which cable goes where on the blower box? Also, would you have any info on required cable lengths and cut back for the cables. I have been searching the web looking for replacements, but it is looking like I am going to have to fabricate my own. It appears that the previous owner used lawn mower throttle cables for heater control cables. Any port in a storm I guess. In hindsight, I really should of marked them at the blower box when I removed them. Anyway... any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

HiJust a question, my heater control don't do anything control switch not working , it's stuck on ' hot', fine in the winter but a little stifling in the summer, do you think it's a fan motor problem or just the controls that operate it

ok Thanks i suppose that's a dash out job is it???? Great video by the way🤘

Hello Sir ! Could you please tell more about the plastic welder ? What model did you use, so I can have a reference point ? About the dashboard...I had smoke from the dashboard, about a week ago. Somebody affirm that fix it, but last night when I started the engine, my dashboard heating was on 2 speed and I felt burn smell again, docI stop the heating. Sny idea about what I should looking for ? I'm a full time traveler and unmounting the dashboard completely, it's not a valid option for me. Any suggestion what I could check ? After the guy "fix it" , something strange occurred. The heating started without the key contact and somehow, seems to be connected with the headlights, because when i turned iff the headlights (with the key off) the heating also stopped. Thank you !

What would be a fair price for a mechanic to charge for disassembling the dash and replacing this motor?

the resistor is supposed to be mounted in the cooling air flow....

Early in the morning it was raining I had the windshield wipers going they were going kinda slow I turned on the heater and a fuse blew, now it won't turn on at all, what fuse is it, I have an 84 would I have to take it all apart and replace the motor or? My wipers still work fine and I think I remember trying to swap the heater fuse if it has one but the fan still didn't work.

I smell anti-freeze when I turn on the front heat. Guess what I get to do. Where is your shop? I'll bring it to you.

Just an FYI...alternative solution to resistor replacement found on thesamba.com here www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=623382 My test video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pNyojZh61papmJ8.html I plan on installing inline ball valve near passenger front panel to shut of circulation to prevent "hotfoot" in summer.

Just in time.... my heater fan is shot and brake power booster is leaking.