malossi rollers dont see different.i only put them on the marked side each.

@@jenny-masterchef You have to adjust them so the thicker side is more pressurized. But if you put them wrong, your scooter won't go fast and iit will become slow. And that's why you have to pay attention on that.

Thanks!

@@2STROKESTUFFING HEY YE ALL BITCHZ NOW TELL ME KNOW WHICH SPRING MAKE MY SCOOTA RUN FASTER 2000RPM OR HIGHER THE NUMBER LIKE 5000RPM ??? ALSO WHICH ONE IS SOFTER ?????

Thank you. Those are the type of comments that rock. Lamens terms for beginners. I want too high speed for cruising, and got the 14/37 gears for my stock 150cc. I just got a performance clutch with red 2000 rpm springs. What rollers would be best in your experience? By placing the new gear set for top speed, i would like to try the best to not loose to much torque at moving from a stop, as I do have some hills around me where i live. Thanks

@@leroijr407 so what’s the best combination for TopSpeed?

Changing the gear also

soft contra spring for better fuel consumption also?

@@zanuarrosyidi4034 no need to change the stock contra spring. It will shift rapidly from low to higher gear ratio. Tuning the rollers can prevent or compensate this thus no need to change the the contra spring. In addition, clutch springs must be stock or even softer than stock for best fuel economy because it does not need higher rpm to engage.

+Franz Heil Thanks, I'll experiment with it on the dyno in future videos.

@@2STROKESTUFFING did you experiment

Thanks! Sounds like a blast! Maybe try to tune the variator to keep revs lower than max power, more in the "max economy" range.

Thanks!

Thanks! Like dual radius roller ways kinda? I'd say how well it works depends on how linear the contra spring action is, and if it's designed with the increasing inertia of the rollers as they move outwards in mind.

was reffering to super lube silicone base btw the one that we use for brake slider pins since my torque drive has rubber o-ring on it and silicone base is safe on rubbers right, but i am not quite sure how will it hold on our torque drive

He must be busy...

+Irawan Bagiarsa with the correct rollers you should have best acceleration and top speed, heavier rollers will give you same top speed but less acceleration, lighter rollers will give less acceleration and possibly less top speed(if it can't gear out fully) choose a contra spring only heavy enough to keep the belt from slipping.

Paul Okada Hi...could you help explain more on how to shim to adjust the belt ride height. I cannot picture how to shim the pulley

what about if im in a shor track where i reach 60km/h ,shouls the belt reach the higher place in the variator?

@@gsrsam For the belt to ride higher on the variator for more top speed it needs to squeeze the belt more. Removing the shim located between the outer pulley and variator will make it ride higher. If you don't have one there you could get a shorter bushing to make the pulley squeeze closer together. I wouldn't recommend this because it will generate more heat on the rear pulley because of the less surface area created when the belt is pulled in deeper on the rear pulley. Also if you got a stronger center spring the big one in the middle of the rear pulley the heat will be too much and belt will fail prematurely. Going to a bigger belt and keeping the stock weakest center spring will reduce the heat. If you have stronger clutch springs then the variator weights needs to be lighter to keep it in low gear until the clutch engages at the higher RPM. It's all a balancing act.

@@Espinete87 If you want a higher top speed then removing the inner shim between the front pulley will help. If you need the acceleration on the top end then leave the shim in or you could add more which will keep it in a lower gear ratio but will reduce the top speed.

I’m not the person your asking this question, but I had years ago a Baotian GY6 50 cc modified with Naraku 90 cc cylinder, piston, ported big valve Naraku cylinderhead, 24 mm PVK carb, Uni Filter airfilter, different intake manifold, intake riser, performance camshaft, Leo Vince exhaust, Naraku variator, Malossi kevlar belt, Naraku Sport clutch, Naraku clutch bell and white clutch spring. As stock it was very slow but after all these mods without any secondary gear changes (transmission gears) top speed was 105 km/h measured with motorcycle reliable speedometer.

@@jannep6772 was the pwk carb easy to setup? I upgraded a kymco vp50 to 52mm 90cc, and its not running faster then 65km/h, olso it wont run right with a 24mm cvk carb somehow

@@KooolaBe Hi. Years ago in that 90 cc build I used PVK 24 carb and not flat slide PWK 24 carb. Have you got big valve head and different camshaft? Does your exhaust system breath/flow enough? I would start from those things and also modify variator etc. You can use flatslide PWK carb and it flows air much better than PVK type as it doesn’t have throttle butterfly and there is no hassle with the vacuum operating throttle slide. Just make sure you get a 4-stroke type PWK (I use in my 170 cc 30 mm PWK Chinese copy carb). I think 24 mm PWK is big enough for 90 cc as with PWK you eliminate that flow restricting throttle butterfly and flow path through PWK flat slide when throttle is fully open is very smooth. But you have to change your throttle cable to fit PWK style carb as throttle cable carb end has to be much smaller than that big end in stock PVK carbs. One other option for carb is Mikuni TM24-9 or TM24-8001 flat slide, but these are actually 2 stroke carbs and many times a bit tricky to get jetted well without changing also other parts than only main jets. I hope you got your questions answered. It’s maybe easiest and cheapest to use PWK style carb and just change your throttle cable. With Mikuni TM style you also have to change to similar different style throttle cable.

@@jannep6772 i have a t2 ncy cam, a 52mm head, ive tried naraku vario but it performs worse then stock one, what main jet where u using with the 24mm vaccuum carb? As i dont have a flat side carb (i misread ur first previous post) my build atm rode better with the inlet restriction not removed and a 88 jet, now thr inlet is derestricted and using 96 jet, but it has less power then with the restriction in place 😴

@@KooolaBe That is really strange why it doesn’t perform better if you have already big valve head and different camshaft. My 90 cc build was done so many years ago that it’s really hard to remember. Must be something in the 90-102 range? I had stock secondary gears, Malossi Kevlar belt, Naraku Sport/Race clutch and clutch bell, white +1000 rpm? torque spring, Naraku big valve well ported cylinderhead, Naraku sport camshaft, Naraku aluminium intake riser plate, Naraku 24 mm PVK carb with that carburetors stock jets if I remember correctly (but I can also remember that I bought 10 pcs. main jets for it), Uni Filter air filter, Naraku variator but I can’t remember what roller weights I ran in it, Leo Vince nice well flowing exhaust, Naraku CDI, coil and NGK (maybe Iridium?) spark plug. Cylinderhead was in flow bench before and after porting. Flow increased significantly and I had a flow bench document back then, but when I sold that scooter the new owner got that document with it. New owner was very happy with the performance by the way... 😉 I can still remember when my cylinderhead porter said that the head was not very well designed, but somehow he managed to improve it’s flow at the lifts these engines cams lift those valves = at low lifts. He also modified both valves to gain flow. Like 30 degree cut to intake valve upper area next to seat contact area etc.

Dont use really tight clutch springs. Use white or orange springs. If you have a big bore. Use an adjustable clutch and red clutch springs with a white contraspring

+Juven Morada Welcome to the channel! Are there any performance pipes available for it?