Yeah, I know, unfortunately in a scrap yard you’ll never know, until you run it on your own car. Sometimes coils blow, I’ve seen a few that don’t spark when cold. Thanks for the input though.👍

Wasn’t connected, to anything. It was for my probe, but not part of the test.👍

@@drivewaydiyer6504 thanks for clarifying - cheers

Gary Setterfield often, that’s the case with a lot of coils, the spark can become weak or intermittently. This is the case when the coil is breaking down. They often get too hot or leak spark, arcing etc. This is not enough sometimes to throw a code.

Ba dum tss! Thanks for the feedback.

ScrewsNutsAndBolts thanks a lot , work in progress. Thanks for watching.

You're very welcome ! :)

You’re welcome.👍

Derek Bracken hi , if you think one is not firing, then it should flag up a code, they normally do, you could also do a spark test, use a test light and connect to ground. Coils do tend to fail, when hot. Not sure about, the configuration, off the top of my head. If all are sparking, you may have a fuel problem. Good luck

Driveway DIYer Thanks man I replaced the coil pack Pin 7 and 8 was not reading a ohm value , so they were for Cylinder No 3

Derek Bracken opel combo not having spak what my be the problem

Helli Masingi Is it coil pack or individual coils Helli ?

Helli Masingi if there is no spark at all, then check the feed, should be able to do that with a testlight, if only one or two are missing spark, then its most definitely the cassette and will need replacing. Check for arcing or melting spots. Don't discount crank sensor problems either, the crank sensor is in a vulnerable position and they get covered in sludge. This would stop any firing. Good luck.

Xinix Xagnix great news.👍👍

workshop mechanics Thanks a lot.👍

Could be your problem, make sure you use a good quality one aswell, if you replace it. Coils can be so temperamental and can be difficult to test.

Andi Sadler I would be tempted to buy a decent one , rather than a second hand one. Sometimes it takes them to get really hot, before they fail, hence your trip from Scotland, would have been ideal for it to overheat. This depends on your budget though, whether you buy a new one. I think they are transferable from one Zafira to another. Let me know how you get on.

@@drivewaydiyer6504 yes bro sounds like it may have overheated then. it did used to do it slightly in 5th when travelling but now its alot worse of course. Any ideas on the price?

Andi Sadler there’s a load on eBay, for various prices, I think a Delphi coil is about 50ish quid. Have a look. I wouldn’t go too cheap, as you might be changing it again, before you know it.

@@drivewaydiyer6504 excellent yes im on it. have you any idea on the code numbers the coil will throw up if any?

Andi Sadler for cylinder misfires, it’s most likely a pO300, 301, 302,303,304. 1-4 being the cylinder number.

arieas are you getting spark on all 4 cylinders. I would do a quick spark test.

@@drivewaydiyer6504 unfortunately I'm sure, I did test with the pack out of the engine and cranking, while I did hear a click from each plug I didn't actually see a clear spark. Perhaps not the best way to test though. There are no faults logged, except for the eml, but I believe the ecu can pick up misfires only if serious enough.

Get a test light ,hook it up to battery negative and put the end of the test light near the coil, the spark should jump to the test light. If they’re all sparking, you may have another issue.

I had it on 20k, what symptoms are you getting? Mine wasn’t that expensive, to be honest. Coils often fail when at running temperature. Is it a cold misfire?

@@drivewaydiyer6504 Getting an error code P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected. Changed the sparks and same issue. Exploring all options before I have to give in and take it in to a garage!.

Do a spark test on no 2 to see if it’s firing. If it is, might be an injector issue or a compression problem. Check spark first.

I am not a car mechanic, but I have used a lot of expensive/cheap multimeters. The lower range will give you more accuracy but if the reading goes above it will just read something like 1.0 (Over what I can read). Start from high and go down the ratings. Most of the time accuracy doesn't matter, and so even a £5 meter from Maplins will work.

I don’t have a wiring diagram for this, but pin 1 is probably positive and 2 is probably ground. I can’t be sure. This cassette is computer controlled, so they are very difficult to test. If you think it’s not firing properly, then I’d do a spark test on it, with a test light.

@@drivewaydiyer6504 brill thanks for the info

Lots of reasons why a car won’t start, testing a coil is a good idea to make sure, it is the coil and not a wiring or ecu problem. Most of the time it is the coil. Coils are expensive and difficult to return if not problem. It’s a 10min job to replace, though a decent replacement are about a £100. You can get a second hand one for half the price, but not always reliable.

@@drivewaydiyer6504 thanks for your quick reply. Amazing range of prices in the UK it seems, £50 - £150. The local Opel workshop offered to do the work incl spark plugs for R10k, about £480. Even Corsa plugs seem to cost 10x normal plugs, its crazy..

You’re paying dealer prices, go independent or do it yourself.

What issue do you have, is it misfiring?

When you say pinout, are you talking about the layout?

@@drivewaydiyer6504 yes mate , the wiring diagram of the coil :) or layout right

@@leotemet2205 could you find it?

@@GorkemArikan hi gorkem , not :)

The fact that your readings are the same across the board, would suggest it's ok but you'd have to check with your manufacturing specs. You can check spark, check your sparkplug gaps. You should really change all your plugs at the same time. Check for voltage leak as well.

Driveway DIYer thanks mate If you can tell me more about voltage leak and sparkplug gaps, how to do that, appreciate any help?!

Baj Val I’d be tempted to get a second hand unit. The code points to a breaking down coil. Even though there could be variables, to this. As a start do this. There could be computer issues or wiring issues. Check the coil for white spots or signs of melting. You could get a second hand one quite cheap.

Driveway DIYer thanks for your advices mate, but I want to be sure about condition of this one I have before I try another one, or when I find another one want to be sure its in good condition. Today I measured resistance on primary like you did and got 1.2 Ohm in 4 pins, I know resistance need to be 0.6 Ohm, but when i touch 2 pins of multimeter there shows a resistence of 0.6 Ohm, so the resistance of coils need to be 0.6 + resistence of multimeter pins, if so the primary is OK, or resistance need to be just 0.6 that means just resistence of multimeter pins?

Baj Val have you tested for spark, get a test light, hook it up to ground and get some one to crank the car. You will need to remove the coil, plug it back in. Hold the test light just away and see if you get spark on all four coils. You should test the wiring at the connector. Aswell. Your code sounds like there’s an electrical problem. Check your sparks first. Good luck

I would say so, any cylinder codes?

@@drivewaydiyer6504 yes, codes p0300 and p0302 for corsa 2001 3 cylinder

Seems its cylinder number 2.

There you go, sounds like you’ve diagnosed your issue. Good on you. Make sure you buy a good quality coil too.👍

I have a question. Do you think I can test this also by removing the coil 2 spring to prevent any contact with the spark plug in cylinder 2, and see if the car's rhythm changes? Would that be safe? I can't find a mechanic on New Year but really need the car.

To be honest, I’ve never tried, I don’t think so.

Are you getting spark on all the cylinders.any codes? Did you try and jump start the dead battery?

Yeah runs fine when started I had to punch start that night the next morning it started fine but I changed the battery just in case before then it went down hill after that like it was coughing so I changed the spark plugs but still doing it is there a way I can check the coil pug

Might be worth cleaning terminals , checking grounds. To test the coil , you’ll need a test light. If you’re not sure, might be worth taking it to a mechanic. So many variables to a misfire.

Thanks for your help

You’re welcome mate.👍👍👍

Let me know how you get on.👍👍

Bad coil/plugs/wiring, bad injector/wiring, poor compression, check them in that order.👍

@@drivewaydiyer6504 hello mate i changed the plugs around with no change did a spark test on coil pack getting desent spark with it set at 20 then started on injectors unplugged injector 1 with no change then 2 and it cut out nether did 3 cus it is saying 301 but with no change on 1 would mean i need to replace the injector right? im so grateful for your help mate thanks

Sounds good mate, hopefully that will fix it.👍

@@drivewaydiyer6504 so grateful man thanks again

I originally had it connected to a wire connected with a crocodile clip, then I used it without. What symptoms are you having, do you have a misfire?

@drivewaydiyer6504 hello, I have that problem but from that terminal that they initially connected and the output of the coil does not give me a measurement and the part is new, although the car keeps failing so I suspect that the part is defective too, thank you very much

Quelle est la valeur de la vérité ou de la vérité ?

@rifickerochan187 this is purely based on the values of a good coil. Do you have symptoms of a bad coil?

Swap it out, any codes?

@@drivewaydiyer6504 I put a new coil pack in, no difference. Cleared all codes. Still throwing a P1337 at me. I suspect the ecu is cooked. Also what is eco mode all about ?

@@aberakadabra1285 are you getting physical spark at all, Sure it’s not a fuel issue at those cylinders. Maybe an injector issue.

@@drivewaydiyer6504 I used the non contact setting on my multimeter to check the spark. But yes I will check the injectors. I do know that the fuel pulse generally runs on the same circuit as the ignition in most EFI cars 🤔

If you’re definitely not getting spark in the two cylinders and the you’ve changed out the coil cassette , then there’s definitely a wiring/ connector or ecu issue.

Get timing checked, might have jumped a tooth, check coil , compression, check for possible air leaks, crack in intake. You could do with live data, maybe someone with opcom. Have you done a pedal test?

@@drivewaydiyer6504 Thanks a lot for a lot of ideas! The Xtool can do live data but the engine has to be running I thought, no? Pedal test just flashed continuously forever,I gave up at 100! Will study how to do the other tests. Just read someone say fuel rail must be 58 psi/4 bar. Mine is 50...

Maybe check out the fuel pump, can you hear it come on. Give the fuel tank a wack.

@@drivewaydiyer6504 Thanks again! I changed the pump and filter a few ago, and hear it come on when i put the key in position 2; also when I get the Xtool to action it (it's bi-directional) -- one of the few things I've learnef on it.

Try spray carb cleaner through the intake and starting the car to see if it runs. If it runs then you know it’s fuel related.

Tony weavers I have been told.😂 Thanks for watching.👍

Yeah going on about the scrapyard all the time 😂

YoPappa so I’ve been told, thanks for watching👌

This was one of the very first videos, I did, with an old camera. I will probably do an updated version of it. I kept it on, even though there’s mixed reviews, it did seem to be helping people. Thanks for watching.👍

@@drivewaydiyer6504 Keep up the good work.

Thankyou 🙏

Thanks for the feedback, thanks for watching.👍👍👍

I’m pretty thick skinned, you really can’t test these things that well. Most of the time they get swapped out as a precaution. A lot of the time they fail when they heat up. Normally you can see. Hot spot or where they’ve deteriorated. If you can get some specs and test it , then even better. Most people want a quick easy fix, that doesn’t happen that often.

Yeah thanks👍

Hope you got something from it..Thanks for watching.👍