Thanks for watching! Rusted, pitted headers are a real challenge, that's for sure. I've used mine a bunch since that video, both inside and outside, with stick and flux core wire and I've yet to be sorry I bought it.

Good luck! If I can help just holler!

I was once a pretty good welder. I worked for shipyards, built parts for pipelines and even welded pressure vessels for a nuclear power plant. Or maybe I was just good at passing stick welding tests. But that was all a long time ago and like anything else, when you don't practice regularly your skills, or in this case my skills, erode. I probably won't have much welding content for the next few months as I wait for the summer heat to end, welding in 110+ degree heat isn't my favorite thing to do. But I've got plans for fall and winter! Thanks for watching and commenting!

Remember, if you can fix it before anyone sees it then it wasn't a mistake and it was never broken! Thanks for watching!

I hope so. We'll see how it holds up over time. Thanks for watching!

I don't think you'll regret it. I'm still using mine and it's my favorite flux core welder. I've probably got 10 spools of wire through it and still think it's a heck of a bargain for the price. Thanks for watching and commenting!

It's still my favorite flux core welder. I've probably run 10 spools of wire through mine at this point and it still runs great. Thanks for watching!

Also checked their website and it seems that they don’t sale spare parts at this time.

While flux core wire probably isn't the best option for sheet metal, with practice it will do it and the options all involve buying an expensive gas bottle. And for me having the ability to weld with 6011 or 6013 stick and TIG means a lot. If you can gas weld you can TIG, it's a very similar process. And if you can stick weld, flux core welding will be a walk in the park. You'll spend more time figuring out how to get the machine set than you will learning the process. And I hear you buying from China, while I think they've gotten a lot better lately, it's still a bit of a crapshoot. And you can buy this from Amazon (admittedly for more money) or directly from Vevor.

@@patrickugorcak I'm not sure what you'd need that isn't an easy to source consumable. Tips, nozzles and all that are just standard parts that fit a dozen different welders and easy to get from ebay or directly from Aliexpress. The plasma cutter is the same, it's all just off the shelf parts.

The Tooliom 200A looks like a nice welder. Good luck!

Are you sure the feed motor isn't running when you squeeze the trigger? When I got mine I thought it wasn't running because it's so darn quiet it can't be heard over the fan. So first, confirm that the motor isn't really running when the trigger is pulled. Crank the amps up to max and watch the motor spindle itself when you squeeze the trigger. If it really isn't running then you're going to have to do some troubleshooting. I'd probably start with the trigger as it's pretty easy to get to. Good luck!

@@3rdpig well i figured out what the problem was. I had to open the cover to find it. One of the wires that feeds the motor that feeds the wire was popped out of the connecter. i pushed the wire back in and was confident that was the problem and put it all back together and sure enough it fixed it. Well thanks for responding Chuck. I was also wondering if you have tried the stick or the tig yet and if so how well fid it work for you? Welp its 2am where I'm at so time for bed. Good night.

Who's them? Vevor? You'll probably see some debate over which polarity to use for flux core wire. I prefer reverse polarity, or ground clamp in the positive connection. Flux core will run either way, but it runs better and with less spatter if you run ground positive. I'll put a link to a video below that shows the difference. If I had it backwards in the video I apologize, at one point I was using the machine to run stick rod that I use straight polarity for and I may have neglected to switch it back. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z8mja7VolZmxgWQ.html

I've been mulling this over since I read it. In the near future I might make a short video on setting the machine for several thickness of metal. Thanks for the idea!

Yes, the Amp control knob also controls wire speed.

It does sound like there's something wrong with it. And it sounds like you've checked all the connections and ground. I'd probably try plugging it into a different circuit, but other than that, it sounds like it's defective.

thank you sir. went directly into a 20 amp just to be sure, and it was low power. Just added another 50 amps to the garage but will most likely put a separate panel out here for the sake of men and power tools everywhere. Haha. Thanks again @@3rdpig

A better manual and a settings chart would be nice, and probably necessary if they're going to market them to beginners. And while a settings chart is nice to get in the ballpark, there's no replacement for experience when it comes to dialing it in, and that's true of any welder, chart or not. So far I think the easiest way to get this welder in the ballpark is to use an amperage chart for 6011 or 6013 welding rod and the thickness of what you're welding. Set the amps to that, then set the voltage knob to roughly the same spot on the dial. Start on some scrap pieces of the material you'll be welding. Listen to the sound, feel and look of the weld and dial the voltage to get it right, if the voltage is too high the wire will hit the material as you're welding, if it's too low it will burn back towards the tip. And the sound is that perfectly smooth hissing, crackling bacon cooking sound. When it's right, then look at penetration and adjust both knobs higher or lower as needed. I've got a couple of projects in mind. I'm not an artist and have never aspired to be one, so what I've got coming up will be bumpers for my Jeep and possibly some repairs/upgrades to a motorcycle. Unfortunately the outside temps are getting up into the upper 90's here and that's about the time I move to indoor projects, so any welding might have to wait until after summer.

@@3rdpig cant wait

Thanks!

You're welcome!

Yes, I still recommend this machine for light duty, occasional use on 110 volts. If your bike parts are steel or steel alloy, then yes, it should be able to do it. But if you're talking aluminum, titanium or other exotic alloys, then you'll probably need a machine capable of high frequency AC/DC TIG welding and proper gas handling.

Thanks for watching! If you need a welding table check out the video I just posted of the Vevor welding table!

Do the feed rollers spin when you pull the trigger? Is the amperage knob turned up? Is the groove on the feed roller the correct one for the size of wire? Does the wire move at least partway into the gun lead? If so is there a kink in it? Make sure you take the tip off before you run it through.

@@3rdpig I think there was a kink in the wire. And I think I had the amp too low. I eventually got it. Thank you though 🙏🏽

@@PNW_R1DER Glad to hear it, happy welding!

@@3rdpig thank you 🙏🏽

One place that my Brother worked at years ago bought an EDM machine and they were told to practice on it until they got good at using it. So boys being boys...

Thanks for watching, I'm glad it helps!

I'm still rather surprised to have gotten the tig torch, those alone, even the cheap ones, are usually $40 or so. And I'm not surprised the price has gone up. Same thing happened with the plasma cutter I bought. Before I could even post the video the price was up. I know the world, other than US, uses the metric system. We have the worst of both worlds in the US, half metric and half inch. It sucks TBH. Thanks for watching!

Flux core wire and stick welding are gasless. If you want to TIG weld you'll need a bottle of gas.

@@3rdpig thanks i just bought the gasless one of amazon .30wires having trouble welding pipe😃 its cutting thru

Vevor sells Chinese made products and in my experience their products are about on par with Harbor Freight's mid level brands. But like most Chinese companies Vevor does not provide the kind of after sales support that most people living in Western nations have come to expect. If you have a problem they're going to tell you to deal with it yourself and probably offer you around 25% of the original cost back. That doesn't mean they make a bad product, it just means if you're unsure of what you're buying, haven't done any research or think you're going to need to return it, you need to purchase a similar item from a reputable retailer like Harbor Freight who will accept returns. I own three Vevor products and intend to buy another soon. Every Vevor product I own has some issues, usually due to cutting corners to keep the price really low, which is what we've come to expect from most Chinese made products. All the issues I've had with Vevor products have either been fairly easy to fix, easy to work around or can be ignored once I knew the quirks of the machine. In the case of a welder like this, if anyone doesn't want to trust Vevor but still can't afford a Miller or Lincoln machine either get the Vulcan at HF or the Simdar MIG 140 from Amazon.

I got a cut50 plasma cutter from vevor. Worked about 15 minutes before nothing. After back and forth for about a week and I got 75% back to repair the unit locally and was an easy fix. Back in service now.