Or laying on top of a space heater...

I would expect that it would work, but you can always test it out first on a "scrap" piece or something to see how well it holds up over paint!

What kind of paint are you using? With acrylics you shouldn't need a long drying time. If you are using oils, I would follow the recommended drying time of a few weeks to months depending on the thickness of your paint. You can treat the drying time the same as you would with a canvas in my experience

I totally understand! I don't know about glue, but I have tried spray sealants as primer. Like an acrylic fixative of any kind seems to work. You can always experiment. The most important thing is that they adhere and don't peel off easily! Hope that helps!

I use it to prime and seal, but you can also get the spray version for sealing if you want!

mod podge is a primer as well. that is what I use!

I've worked with a few of those! I would definitely still prime it. The likelihood of success probably depends on what you use for the Zentangle, like a paint pen vs a paint brush etc... Sometimes the fine tip posca pens can pull up the primer

Thank you! I would still use Modpodge first to be safe, but I use gesso over modpodge for oil paintings. It may peel off without that modpodge layer

@@AbigailFaith thank you so much You’ve unlocked a new series I’ll be making haha thank youu

No worries! I use amazon for all of my shipping products. Let me go find a couple links and I will add it to this comment thread

This is the cardboard I buy, but you can cut your own if you are looking to save money: a.co/d/1MeXbMm

Here are the boxes: a.co/d/d0DGECD

Here are the protective sleeves: a.co/d/cmi7Fn8

@@AbigailFaith thank you!

It works either way, but I recommend painting before and sealing with mod podge since the mod podge turns into a kind of glossy coat when it's baked. Yes, you can paint both sides. If you are going to paint first, a flexible paint is better than the cheap matte stuff which can crack in the over. I wouldn't recommend craftsmart or applebarrel paint. For your situation, I would say paint them after and the reason is that some of them just don't turn into bowls well or they become too warped and you have to toss them. I would hate for a studen't painting to get ruined. I can't remember if I mentioned this in the video, but the thickness of the record will change how well they turn into a bowl (thinner is better) and if you are doing a big batch, try to so them all the same thickness. If you do it, you can toss any that don't melt right and the kids don't lose their art. Hope that helps! Let me know if I can answer any other questions!

Is the signature in sharpie or something permanent? It should be fine if it is permanent marker. You shouldn't need to prime the vinyl for resin at all, but buy some cheap/damaged vinyls and do a test round. If your center sticker/logo portion of the record is paper(without any kind of plastic coating on it), then it needs to be sealed somehow. I've had the logo's start to turn "wet" under resin almost like if you ran them under the faucet

Thanks for your feedback and sorry for my delay. I'm not sure what marker was used as I haven't received it yet but it is some kind of marker. I'll seal it before resin work, just to be safe. Love your work, you make it look so easy. :) @@AbigailFaith

You could try isopropyl alcohol for removal, but I can't promise that works. Are you asking what brands of paint work best?

@@AbigailFaith yup :)

@@wiktoriasobiesiak7269 There isn't one brand that is better or worse really, but the cheaper brands like craftsmart are so transparent that you need a lot of coats for full coverage. If you are wanting more coverage, I would use liquitex or a thicker more opaque paint! Hope that helps

@@AbigailFaith thank you so much 🫶

yes!

Yeah! I like to seal it with mod podge and you can put it in the oven as described in the video without problems. The mod podge helps keep cheaper acrylics from cracking and turns glossy once baked!

@@AbigailFaith thanks! I'll have to give it a try. About how long do you leave it in the oven at 250°? Do you find putting it in a glass bowl to shape it works best?

@@praschclan6692 Yes, laying it over an upside down bowl to put it in the oven and then molding into another bowl as soon as you take it out works well for me. You can also attempt it a few times if you don't like the shape you get. The time depends on the thickness of the record. I only use thinner records for molding now because the thicker ones take so long and are really hard to work with. If you record is on the thinner side, it should only need 3-6 minutes. I usually watch and it and wait till the edges start to dip down before removing it.

I believe it would!! I have used a spray primer and sealant and it goes on and stays nicely! I would imagine airbrushing would be the best way to get a consistent texture too

​Okay, thank you for answering my questions =^.^=

Thank you! I buy damaged records in bulk from various thrift stores

I'm not sure how much help I can be, it's definitely a personal choice based on which platforms works best for your business needs. I think Etsy has some good things going for it for custom art since people know to look there for that sort of thing. Any platform is going to require you to do your own marketing though if you want to successfully sell custom work. Social media, advertising, etc...

Unfortunately no. I use primarily damaged records that become decoration only once are used for art. If done carefully, you could do art on one side of the record and the other could still play

Most of the records are damaged or scratched. I would say 90% of them are classical. Bought in bulk from stores that have already deemed them imperfect in one way or another. No vintage Jazz!!

@@AbigailFaith you have no idea how happy you've made me and probably atleast 3 other people I know lol, thank you