Those b5.5 chassis are pretty much audi suspension Isn't 06 the next b6 generation passat?

B6 passat is based the b7 a4

just good and tight sincerely, person who completed this job 15 minutes ago

Add like 30Nm instead of degrees, should be good :) Also depends on which nuts and bolts, don't go crazy

Glad you found it helpful! That clunk is a tough call. Anytime something originates after working on the car, you'll want to retrace steps to see if something that was touched is making the noise. Without hearing the noise or driving the car, a clunk or suspension noise is hard to diagnose. Does it happen over bumps. or slow transitions? (like entering a driveway or going over a speed bump). Is it high toned or low toned? Does it seem solid or light? Is it a "clunk" or more of a "POP"? The factory rubber bushings on the sway bars tend to last quite a long time. To replace, the front subframe will need to be lowered, various bits loosened or removed, and the car will need an alignment after. It does take some time - at least 3 hours, possibly a bit more.

i know it’s probably too late but you don’t need to touch any of the bolts on the car besides the 2 control arm bolts and the lower ball joint.. a person helping is all you really need

@@turboshotthopassenger side doesn’t require that drivers side does

@@mickeyyy7571i’ve done both sides and did not need to loosen anything other than what I mentioned

How hard to take subframe off?

It’s not bad at all if you have proper tools and you’re careful. 1) Support the car on a lift or jackstands, remove wheels, disconnect front sway bar links (you can leave them on the struts, just disconnect the lowers from the FSB) 2A) disconnect the sensors and harnesses for the VAQ diff and the oil level sensor. 2) make scribe marks around the body locations where the subframe is positioned. 3) remove rear downpipe to cradle bolts (2x 13mm heads) 4) Loosen rear subframe brackets and the small bolts 5) loosen the 2 rear subframe bolts (3-turns max) 6) support the front of the subframe with a small or medium floor jack (1.5 ton aluminum floorjack works well from HF) 7) loosen and remove the front 2 subframe bolts 8) use the floor jack to carefully lower the front of the subframe several inches. Notice I did not say to completely remove the subframe. You can use the above method to replace the front LCAs and/or the front sway bar. Leaving the rear bolts in place, but loose, makes working with the front subframe, and reinstalling and aligning it…10x smoother and easier. 😎 Hit the 👍 button if you folks would like to see me make a short video documenting this process. 🍻

SKF makes the wheel bearings for MQB platform, but generally it doesn't matter, RIDEX, FebiBillstein, Mapco, they are all the same, just make sure the part number is compatible with your car, if the part number is compatible, then any manufacturer will do perfectly fine. But personally, i would not buy anything from ATE, their tolerances on brake discs and pads are horrible.

@@krisg822 Thank you for your reply but like you said regarding ATE. It’s all good part numbers match but certain brands are not built to withstand the endurance needed. I tend to stick with what came on the car from factory MINUS the stealerships logos

@@michael6125 exactly, front wheel bearing from seat service cost 270Eur a piece, that without installing. Same part online costs 80 maybe 100Eur, the difference is, the online part has no "VW Audi" logo.

@@michael6125 oh and Topran is also manufacturing the suspension parts for VW. Then Monroe for the shock absorbers.

You dont know much ay mate

Why, its a pretty simple job to do