Thanks!

Thank you!

Thanks, you're welcome!

Hi Matt, thanks, sure, always happy to be shared :)

Thx.

Hi, re tire pressure, Personally, I just stick to the recommendation, I never increase pressure to get better results. I only do this when I go on a longer trip with a fully loaded car. Re rpms: You can go as low as you want, as long as the engine doesn't rattle and provides sufficient power for your needs its fine. If it starts getting bad for the engine it will tell you ;)

The reason I don't like small - not only turbocharged, but all - motors is because I think it's a better concept to have a reasonable amount of displacement and good torque from low revs, especially with naturally aspirated engines. Like the 2,5 l 194 hp-engine from Mazda. It's not only for low revs, but about sound, longevity, smoothness, torque-curve, etc. I hope I'll get such a diesel car from Volkswagen soon.

Those vehicles are so different that I think a comparison wouldn't make sense (with elecric cars it does as weight has a much bigger influence and therefore they are in order of the weight-specific consumption). However, as it doesn't make any big difference I will put it in order for the next release ;)

Hi, I am always willing to test cars requested, but as I am depending on the dealers I can't promise.

If it's not lugging there is no issue. I'm driving a 1.8 TSI which has very long gear and spends most of its life under 2k rpm. This car is on 180k miles without issue. If the head gasket is designed well there will not be an issue with low rpm driving.

@@jamesfranko5098 The engine of this review is 95 hp, 1 liter displacement. may I ask you how many hp does your 1.8 tsi engine have?

@@safewaycart it has 170 but the principle is still the same. I've ridden 10bhp 125 motorbikes and they can be ridden low rpm as long as you don't lug them. You can feel when an engine is straining so just avoid that. The same applies to the 1.0tsi engine.

@@jamesfranko5098 I agree with engine lugging that is not ok for the engine. plus low rpm under load is a different thing. but these engine are so quiet compared to the old ones that it is not easy to tell if the engine is lugging or not. so you dont have a clear cut sign when the engine is lugging. but hey let's see. I have this little 95 hp engine and I have good fuel/mileage so far and change the oil on short intervals in order to keep the piston rings in good shape. I keep my fingers crossed but some doubts persist...

@@safewaycart I think the main issue is the carbon build up from the direct injection. It can clog up the rings and get behind the valves. If you just blast the car every so often and get the temps up it should keep it at bay for a.while.

Modern engines are made for rpms from around 1200. If they are used with CVT or Auto-Gearboxes you can go as low as that and that wouldn't be allowed by the software if it would kill the engine. It's an old mechanics tale from 30 years ago that low revs are bad. Back then it was correct. But not nowadays.

@@ecodriver1746 Where did you find it good to drive at 1 200 rpm? It is crap. At these rpms engine produce a lot of carbon. Only high load (motorway/high revs) burn the settled carbon. Even the on board hint advises you to change to lower gear... Automatic transmision would downshift several times during your ride. My hybrid car from 2022 with automatic gearbox in 98% of the time drives over 1500 rpm.

The automatic does what I request from it with my foot. If I press hard it shifts back as I require more power. What the automatic allows you can be found out when you lock the gears, then it shifts when it gets bad for the engine. The automatic in my cars both allow me to go down to 1100 rpms (once the engine reaches working temperature). If you had listened to what I said in the video (or watched closely) you'd know that I say that if the engine doesn't produce enough power and it's needed or it starts to rattle then - of course - you shift back. On the uphill section at the beginning I was revving up to 2500 rpm, with the car telling me to even shift from 4 to 5. So I am not really getting your point. As you see here (as an example) www.auto-tests-service.de/Service/Fahrphysik/img/schaltdrehzahl_Verbrauchskennfeld_M273.jpg the most efficient burning process is between c. 1300-2200 rpms when put the almost highest possible load at low revs (means accelerating rather quickly with low revs). Comparing a hybrid with a conventional ICE doesn't make sense in that respect, as most hybrids - once the engine is on - not only drive the wheels but also charge the batteries and therefore (have to) produce more power, which - as I assume you know - needs higher revs.

I´m talking about your driving style from 8:10. If you are happy to drive at 1 100 rpm, keep doing it. But I don't think it's a good idea to advise others to drive like this all the time. They would definitely thank you in the future. Im not talking about driving above 2 000 rpm all the time. But driving about 1 000 rpm and talking how great it is? I know hybrid have higher rpm during generating eletricity, but it is also beneficial for burning settled carbon. The worst performers are the high-performance cars, which are still being driven very slowly. This driving style and very short rides are the worst conditions for running a direct injection engine(oil dilution). Your 30 old tale pays more today than ever before.

Believing that carbon dilutes burn if you use higher revs is like believing in any sort of God or easter bunny or magic. If you really want your engine to burn this carbon you need temperatures you never reach even with even a sporty style of driving. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a6lpfMhlp8m9las.html And those stories are 30 years old as this was the time when the carburetors disappeared and yes, back then it made sense to keep the revs up. And, for the third time: I don't advise to drive with 1100 rpms ALL THE TIME. Please listen and understand.