the distance of 500 meters to the transformer was probably the main issue

Similar issue here. We are 300 meters from the transformer plus 70 meters of 16mm 3 phase cable. When the electric mower starts it's a significant dimming of the lights, and the phase previous in the rotation will actually brighten slightly. Oddly, resistive loads will push the phase next in sequence up by half the drop on the loaded phase.

So true.

+DC when I was at school all you did was copy what was on the board, in silence...

***** same here. I was born late 60s. My first school was a typical victorian school. All on benches with slate board. My next school had round tables and it was chaos. My junior school is where i gave up learning from school. My education is very high but have no qualifications. No way was I going to spend years getting in debt to do a degree so I can flip burgers

Nicee well doneee

AintBigAintClever . some idiots are just born trollers. I wish, every time someone trolls, a magical hand will slap them around the back of the head. HA!

just your average idiot on KZfaq

There's a lot of know it alls on youtube who think if you didn't do it the way I would have done it then you did it wrong. That's my guess on who down voted the video.

AintBigAintClever what’s that saying about educating pork?

I would bet half of them are people who missed the share button and accidentally thumbs downed the video.

"the supply industry likes keeping higher voltages than the EU standard of 230V, as we end up using more power!" In general you don't. Take that kettle. Feed it with a higher voltage, and it will boil the water faster and it will turn off quicker which will counteract the increased power usage. The same with a washing machine, or a dish washer, or an oven or anything else which contains a thermostat. Things get up to temperature faster and they then turn off quicker. In the case of devices which contain modern power supplies and draw a fixed amount of power, like a TV, a computer or something similar then the device will draw less current at a higher voltage and there will be less power wasted in the wiring. Higher voltage supplies are more efficient. The current passed is lower for the same power which means there's less wasted power in the wiring. That doesn't just mean the domestic wiring, but it feeds back through all the levels of the transmission network. Run, say, 5% higher voltage at each level and that means about 5% less current which means about 5% less power loss in the cabling. Drop the voltage so that it's actually 230v that is delivered rather than 240v, then then more current would have to be delivered for the same power. As for the EU standard being 230v, it's not. The requirement is a range which means that anything from about 215-250v complies.

Yes, it would tell you that because the voltage being “robbed” happens more and more as the current goes down the line. Thus, at the beginning you have all the voltage and at the end of the line less.

RK 180 check out Chris kitcher. Routledge. QR codes 1-17. All the tests in sequence.

Resistance does increase as the temperature increases, but for the temperature increase in a kettle element, any change in resistance is insignificant.

Does the lighting in the rest of the house *also* dim? Because if it’s in your supply, it should affect everything. Or have you gut it fixed by now and if so what was it?

210V is too low, and the drop from 226 to 210 is excessive, so you should contact the supplier so that they can investigate. The example in the video was due to an underground cable fault which has now been repaired - when loaded the voltage only drops by 1 or 2 volts now.

Angus Smith - Had similar situation many years ago. Power supplier should take care of that...But most times they don't/can't because of all the surrounding infrastructure (high cost). In my case after complain they changed my house supply from one connector (barramento-put the correct English expression) of 6 houses to another, just beside that only supplied 3 houses. Meaning it was far from perfect but got slightly better. Anyway I was the only one complaining (officially) all the others had the same losses but where not aware of the situation. PS: During Christmas season (light decoration in nearby city) it went as low as 195V. Too many transformers, ballasts and a few other electronics lost...I payed the bill for all. :-(

+David Stone It's an M series from the 1960s, all valve/tube amplifiers.

Its way more than a multimeter its an installation tester tho the test he did in the opening scene you can perform the same test with a basic multimeter like a fluke 117

The resistance in this instance is that of the supply cables and circuits within the property. That remains constant, but as the load (amps) increases, the voltage across that resistance also increases, V= IxR. Parallel loads only have the same voltage if the cables connecting them have zero resistance, in textbooks this is assumed to be zero but in reality cables have some resistance although it's usually very small. The installation in this video had a fault with the supply (high resistance connection) so the effect of voltage drop was much larger than normal.

Limits are when on load - the voltage should not go outside of the limits at any time.

@@jwflame Thanks John, and another question if I may, if site load includes large heat pumps, currently without soft start, will the DNO accept very brief starting current "blips" slightly in excess of the agreed intake limit (fused at 100 amp for the site I'm helping advise friends on)?

@@9jws They might accept them. Such things should be notified to the DNO before they are installed.

Thanks again John, and yes they were apparently involved from the outset, but my enquiries continue. This all started from me helping advise friends who live at the end of a long private lane, and effectively the last house on the network branch. All houses very large, with corresponding large potential loads (in their case, includes 4 large heat pumps, 2 for house and 2 for pool, so an interesting installation). Measuring the Ze today, on no load, I got 0.55 ohms, but still trying to establish if TNS or TN-C-S as although it presents itself as TNS, I'm aware of an underground change in cable type (my son noticed it while doing some trench digging for them). Anyway, it got me thinking about the measurement of Ze generally, and even with no load on this house installation, others on the network were still connected, so formaing parallel loads, the demand on which will affect the measured Ze when just using standard loop testers or multitesters on a live network. I tried simulating this by also measuring Ze at the supply, with various loads on in the house, and sure enough, very significant changes in the measured value of Ze. Any thoughts appreciated. Incidently, with a load of 64 amps, the supply voltage was just 206 volts. pfc is a concern too as as heat pumps also use type C breakers (currently without RCD's), and of course the supply 100 amp fuse, a standard BS 1361, so no hope of tripping MCB's or blowing the 100 amp fuse in a resonable time if a short circuit fault situation. A challenge for me too is explaining the adverse fault performance of the heat pumps under low voltage conditions, and the implications on the cold weather COP, but that's another story and needs my drives engineers and refrigeration engineer hats on once I've sorted this lot! Beeen retired over 10 years now, so having to research to get back up to speed, but it's keeping the brain ticking over!

@@9jws My ex-next door neighbour installed an industrial MIG welder in his garage. I had to live for years with my lounge lights flickering and strobing into the late evening thanks to numbnuts next door with his cut price tractor repairs. Luckily he's gone.

Gold is worse than copper, silver is better....

just use cryogenic coolling to go to 0kelvin something and use a supraconducter.

I use silver cabling, the resistance decreases with age ;-)

@max marrero Hello hello, hello! You seem to know a lot about it. Evening all😅

+mibars Where are you located? That kind of voltage drop sounds like what I'd expect in rural Italy but in your case it seems to be caused by your house wiring. In Italy it's the grid operator, they'll seriously string over 1000 m of 6 mm2 wire on poles supplying several houses!

Ragnar8504 Poland, countryside, very end of power line. Power line that was supplying two houses at this end back when it was constructed now supplies I think 7 or 8. I can clearly see when my neighbor starts the welder.

mibars i

It's like that because it was made from 3 individual test leads, neater than having the 3 separate wires.

The voltage drop (about 10v when kettle only was on) calculates to an ohm total in the conductors. Hence the assumption that it was about 0.5 ohm in each.

They measure actual power not apparent power, the only time you would be charged for apparent power is in a industrial environment that is why you do not need power factor correction. Eevblog recently did a video on this subject you should check it out.

+Jeremy Hall Yes, actual power from measuring both current and voltage. Doesn't therefore matter what the voltage is, unlike those clip on energy meters which only measure current and assume the voltage is constant.

Yes they are - both the 4mm plug and the wire is marked with the double insulation symbol. Rated Cat III, 1000 volts, and 20 amps.

If it states 10A, then use a 10A fuse .

in the first part of the video(turning on and off the cattle ,toaster etc.) Sir John discusses voltage drop on the appliances in parallel.in the second part he discusses the voltage drop on the cables(conductors),obviosly in series with the load----if the cables are too long they can "consume" the voltage needed the load to operate properly.The electricity is precise science--i thought Sir John could find a way (method) to differentiate the two voltage drops.

Kitchen light wasn't working - an older type fluorescent tube with magnetic ballast. Would work perfectly some of the time, and at other times it wouldn't stay on due to the low voltage.

On the older Fluke MFTs, the zero function is the oval button top left. It's the F2 button on newer ones. if active, there will be a ∅ symbol shown in the display. To reset, connect the test leads together, press and hold the button until it beeps (a few seconds usually).

Something like 10.58 but additional lines for live and neutral, and loads are equally distributed along the loops.

Lower voltage will result in less current and less power - but only for basic resistive loads like a heating element or incandescent lamp. For those, half the voltage is also half the current, and quarter power. However they will also be very dim, or give out far less heat so there is no real saving. For most modern items, lower voltage doesn't save money. Items with switching power supplies (which is 99% of anything electronic) with often work normally on voltages between 100-240, they just draw more current at the lower voltage, power is the same. If only designed for one voltage, it probably won't work at all if the voltage is too low. Motors will not work properly at lower voltages, they will have far less torque and are likely to stall and overheat. Fluorescent lamps will be dim or not work at all.