Thanks for the comment! I had no idea that the dust cap served as the seal. So I guess in my case the dust cap was not sealing correctly and I just did extra work. I assume there's no issue with installing a seal anyway?

Did you end up installing the seal ? How did it go? Or did you remove it and only use the dust cap?

@@wc2787 I had the seal on there with the dust cap, but the comment from James Madison is correct, you don't need it. I actually had a PCV issue that caused the front cam seals to blow out a few months after this video was filmed, so I went back and removed that came seal behind the cap. I then installed the cap and did a very light bead of RTV around it just to keep any oil from leaking around it. It's what a local Volvo guy does, so I followed his lead.

Totally agree with being realistic. Because the money you save can quickly go out the window when you have to get a tow to a shop and have them do it. That being said, the seals really aren't that bad. Just need a steady hand and the right tool. There's actually a tool to install the cam seals if you think that would help you out.

Glad it helped!

Some others have commented that there isn't supposed to be a seal in that location. The part diagrams I looked at showed one which is why I installed one. I can say that I had the seals blow out one other time after this video (because of PCV issues) and I didn't install a seal, just sealed the dust cap and it's been fine.

@@StevesGarage ok great. So far no issues with the seal in place. Not sure what sort of problem to look out for if the seal IS causing issues, but it doesn’t appear to be hindering anything important.

@@just__dave My guess would be too much crankcase pressure, which would also be indicative of a malfunctioning PCV system. Make sure you clean out the engine block passages when doing the PCV, that was my issue. The person who did it before I owned it never cleaned those out.

I'm ashamed to say that I used a block of wood. I tried a few cheaper cam locking tools and none of them fit. I think I'll be ordering the expensive Volvo one for the future because it's not something to take a chance on.

@@StevesGarage thank you!

@@davidmaddox7154 No problem, happy to help!

That seems to be what most cam locking tools are because you lock them to do the timing belt. You need a cam sprocket locking tool. You can usually pick up an adjustable one for a decent price at your local parts stores, you just have to find one that fits.

Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment!

Hi, unfortunately I haven't removed that on my car so I don't have any advice or a video. I know that Robert DIY deals in P80s and you have a P2 with it being an 01, but does he have a video? I know the early P2 cars are similar to P80s. Also, maybe pick up a haynes manual to help you out?

@@StevesGarage I'll try to find that manual. Thanks any way

Turbo intercooler tube ^**

Hard to say what would be causing it via a comment section. If it is the cam seal, your PCV most likely needs to be serviced. There can be a small amount of oil in your intercooler hose from blow by, but enough to drip in the floor seems excessive.

If the seals aren't leaking there's no reason to replace them. They are also not a replacement for the PCV system maintenance. You should definitely do the PCV, and the cam seals are optional.

I'm not familiar with P2 cars as I haven't owned or worked on one. I know there are different front cam seals for engines with and without CVVT. I know that the IPD website has dimensions listed for some of the seals, you could also check FCP Euro.

I don't have a video for that because P80/Whiteblocks don't have a valve cover gasket. They use anaerobic sealant. You said S60, so I'm assuming P2 or P3? I don't have the experience to say first hand, but I don't think the P2 cars use a gasket either. Is it possible you have a PCV issue or your oil cap seal has failed?

@@StevesGarage thank your for you time, I don't know if my car is p1 or P2 S60 2001 model Motor code B2544S. When I change the spark plug I noticed that the spark plug are wet with oil above the thread not much some already dried. A friend of mine told me its the valve gasket and we tried to torch those small volt above the cover and he told me if I change the gasket I need a special tool I really don't know. There's no any leak outside or under the motor.

@@nestordupo845 Happy to help out, thanks for the detailed reply. A 2001 is a P2. P1s are S40 / V50 / C30 / 06+ C70. As for the B5244 engine, there's no gasket. Unless the cam cover has been removed and installed poorly, it's most likely the oil fill cap gasket leaking or a PCV issue. Depending on the mileage if you haven't addressed the PCV it'll need to be done. For the oil cap gasket, IPD sells a Viton version that makes that gasket a one and done item instead of needing a periodic replacement.

@@StevesGarageI live in Sweden our mile here is different from the US 1 mile=10km now my car 22000 Swedish miles. The vvt soleniod gasket broke down 5 yrs ago and the oil run all over but not in the spark plug bay. About the PCV I don't know if it is the problem I change oil every yr. To service the PCV it will cost a fortune here in Sweden more than the value of the car. Well I will drive it till it broke down then maybe I will buy another car instead. I seldom use it only maybe a 1000km a yr or less. Only in summer time and no rust at all. About the oil cup I change it 3 yrs ago. Thank you for your time appriciated much.

@@nestordupo845 Yea, the PCV service is a big cost, but it's not impossible to do yourself! There are a lot of guides out there. Even with changing the oil regularly it could still need to be serviced. Even with the low mileage things can break down due to how old it is.

I don't know enough about that engine to say for sure. But I do know enough about Volvos that the concept of the replacement would be the same. I'm sure the sizes would be different, but the location and method would be very similar.

@@StevesGarage perfect! Thanks

@@tysonstuart312 No problem, I hope the video helps. If you do have any other questions let me know. I might be able to help you out.

I'm not sure what you're referencing? The small wheel and dust cover install the same way they came off.

So the cam is moving in and out of line with the belt? Or it rotated out of position? The cam shouldn't move laterally as it's locked into place by the cam cover. If it moved out of rotation, you might have to reset the VVT hub to sync it back up.

@@StevesGarage Sorry, badly explained. So the cam gear itself does not move at all however I can feel the cam internally rotate as I loosened the wheel on the back, but less than a quarter turn (cam gear remained stationary and frozen in place, so to speak). Yes, the cam gear moves horizontally in and out of line with the timing belt (in and out about the width of a cardstock piece of paper, which would lead me to think just free play between the two parts that bolt the cam into its "cradle" in the head or something. Additionally when I tightened it back up it rotates back to the position it was in (clockwise about a quarter turn) prior to loosening and unbolting. Hope this helped clear any confusion I've replaced and bolted everything back up in regards to the PCV system. All that's left after the cam seals is the timing belt which I haven't started yet

@@JCDUDECANTU No problem! I think that's the movement within the VVT hub. You're doing the timing belt, so your best bet is once that's replaced, turn the engine over by hand two full rotations and make sure everything stays lined up. That's a good practice to have after doing the timing belt anyway, but extra insurance since you felt the cams move while doing the seals. Let me know if that makes sense or if you have any more questions!

@@StevesGarage I will be doing that shortly. If everything lines up is there any need to "recalibrate" or reset the CVVT cams? Best practice to do so anyway? Thanks for the help thus far. I have the "4T5" motor with the dual CVVT

@@JCDUDECANTU I'm not very familiar with resetting the VVT as I haven't done it myself. I believe it only has to be done if you remove it, but I would double check. From what I understand the car will run if it's not tensioned correctly, it just runs poorly when it calls for the VVT to engage.