great videos! i have learned so much about my volvo from you thank you very much! i have watched a lot ,a whole lot of videos on water pump cam seals oil seals and timing belt and from all of those videos from all of those various methods and steps ,its like this ...paint mark every part and the exact place that each part bolts onto the motor or spins around in each place it spins on the motor.The belt, gears, pulleys ,shafts,EVERYTHING .mark every piece that you are going to take off before you take it off and when you put each part back on be sure all those parts match back up exactly. there are several methods to successfully removing the parts but which ever method you choose match up your marks exactly to the position the part was in before you started you will not fail.of course you should be very mechanically inclined and have the tools and paint as well ...if you are not you should for sure watch as many videos as possible and follow steps to a T. that worked great in my case for my volvo xc70 2.5T anyway.

It is plain that you are well skilled in the way of the shitbox. I too am learning these skills. There are so few masters left.

I am working on this now. I bought the car for 1500 2 weeks prior to the mishap. The dealership wants 2500 to fix it lol. Thankful for your video

My beloved Vo's oil light came on..... Oil just dumping out, i could tell the intake cam seal was out, but was worried i had other seals out too because how much oil i was losing. Nope that cured it! Thx for the video! I watched it twice the day before the seal came in! Back on the road. No leaks!

Best video on cam seal so far. You have the finess to make sure job is done right. Thank You.

Nice job at explaining this... I got quoted $700 USD to replace the seal; well, I think I'll do it myself on my 2005 Volvo XC90... just need to find the right time, as I'm truly busy and it's hoooooottttt in Phoenix, Arizona. I truly appreciate folks like you sharing the knowledge. When you go to the grave, which we all will, we know that our knowledge is NOT going to be lost. Thank you thank you!!!!

You my friend are a genius I applied your techniques and got the job done in few hours now I have to figure out my transmission troubles

this may sound crazy, but it worked for me. When this just happened to me 4 months ago, i was about gonna give up on a 260k volvo s70. Exactly as you see in this video was what it was. I had already looked [desperately, as the leak was too bad] into oil sealants you add to oil. When i finally found what he shows here in this video, i had a long shot idea. I simply pushed the cam seal back in with a stubby screwdriver, working around it from opposite sides, so as to try to get it seated evenly. [this thru the holes you see in the 'sprocket'.] I didn't push hard, just gently. Crosshatch, like wheel lug nuts. When i had the damn cam seal what i considered 'seated' in its recess, i bought some blue devil 'rear main sealer', and using a small paint brush [which i broke the handle off to make 'stubby'], i painted the blue devil product directly onto the cam seal itself. [this while it was snowing, in a parking lot!] I then bicycled home and came back next day, -leaving some ten hours of 'curing' time. [this ain't something 'blue devil' recommends!] i then followed the 'blue devil' company's directions, [i think], simply pouring the bottle of 'rear main sealer' into the engine's oil crankcase and running the engine at idle for two hours. Despite some apprehension at starting it, the seal held! After the two hours of the motor idling, i GINGERLY drove the car home, and idled it some wherever i gingerly drove it for a few days. I BABIED IT! within two weeks i drove it normally. Easy, but normal. A month later, i got on it here and there, -and I still do now! Too soon to say for sure, but i think it's a permanent fix!! May god show this to another who needs it to keep his 'beater' going, -volvo or no! some points: blue devil also makes 'oil stop leak', which i think is same formula, but more [fluid and money]. Think i paid $16ish for 'main sealer'. Blue devil's probably 'the best', though other brands are out there. The stuff expands gaskets and seals somehow. This stuff obviously made my 'loosey' cam seal expand enough to snug it firmly in place. i should note that in this video, the seal seems different than mine was. It seems like if you were to start pushing it into its recess with something, it wouldn't have had as much resistance as mine did. But i can't be sure from a video... Even if it IS looser, you could duct tape a matching cylindrical object over it, or in some way hold it in. If you can get it to stay in after painting the 'stop leak' on it and adding it to motor oil, it could still expand it to hold. But if the cam seal pushes in snugly, so much the better. My exhaust cam [rear] is a VVVT cam, with that kind of bell shaped pulley. It has no holes in it, as the 'sprocket' in this video does, to place a stubby screwdriver through! Thus, alas, you can't fix it this way. [at least i can't see how.] i think if my rear cam seal woulda blown, i'd a said goodbye to my baby, -cause doing this job 'right' ain't no walk in the park. And i do wrench some... i also was warned that the pcv system likely caused this failure, and that i had to fix it or more trouble. But i did the dipstick test and the rubber glove test, [thanks robertDIY!], and they both passed. I think the seal just got old and i drove her too hard that night. I lost 3 qts of oil in ten miles b4 i finally stopped. I should change timing belt, [soaked in oil!], but won't, -as it was just changed! Just washed her down good with brake cleaner. [should give it a second wash soon again.] since this doesn't seem a pcv issue, i would definitely recommend using 'high mileage' motor oil in your old car/ truck. Definitely these volvos! cheap insurance! It's similar to the blue devil stuff, but likely much less concentration. You could even add the blue devil stuff, maybe 1/3 of a bottle every other oil change. Mite be better. Blue devil raised my oil pressure a lot. At least 1/4! [i got a gauge.] Don't kno why. But no harm i guess, and by golly, it saved my car! It may drop down when i change oil. There have been no side effects from this blue devil oil sealer, as there can be with 'sealers', generally. I've heard of them gunking up things, esp. coolant sealers. it is possible that the cold weather may have [barely] helped my cam seal 'seat'. If it's summer, maybe you'd put ice [or freon?] in cam seal area... Just an idea. Who knows? I originally left this comment on another video elsewhere. The repair has never failed since, after nearly a year! In fact, I just put some 3000 turnpike miles on car in this last month, with a lots of high speed hammering on her! Was over 100 mph 3x! No prob. This "miracle" fix is a solid as a rock.

One of the greatest ideas ever is your use of an empty gallon container to hold the bolts and parts as you take them off. You should demonstrate that idea in all your videos because it is useful for everything that people repair. A genius idea because it is so simple.

Thank you so much for this! I have put 10 qts of oil in my '01 V70XC in the last two days, while I tried to figure out where the leak was coming from. Once I found the splatter all inside my front/right wheel, I knew this was the video for me! I have confirmed the intake camshaft seal is a wobbly, loose bit, and this video just saved me a boatload of Volvo dealership debt! You rock a bunch!

Excellent video. I have a small oil leak coming from top passenger side on my V70. I can see oil in the timing belt area. I will check to see if it is coming from the seal and if it does I will follow your instructions. I am on my third Volvo now, had 240, 740 and now V70. I will drive Volvos for the rest of my life, love them.

Thank you..I thought this was more than I could do..but you showed every step I needed to take..thanks again

PERFECT VIDEO, this video saved me so much my car has the exact same problem and i am getting the seal in and should be back on the road in a few days, thanks for the help!

Extraordinary detail ! Super helpful !! I learned lots !!! Thanks . 👊🏼 🔥

Hi from New Zealand, I had my 2002 Volvo V70 XC lose all its oil at the carpark yesterday afternoon leaving a pool of oil, I had no idea what the cause was but after watching your videos, I now have a good feeling that it is the camshaft seal. The car is going to the mechanic next week (I will clean the car park). I have shared your excellent videos with the mechanic, a great guy. I will let you know if it is the camshaft seal or something else. I have always owned a Volvo, 240, 245, 260, 265 and the magnificent 740 GLE and the powerful 760 GLE. The Volvo name comes from the infinitive of the Latin verb "volvere (to roll)" and it was conjugated into Volvo, which means "I roll." Keep them rolling. Thank you again.

This was a very good helpful video with one exception that i think might be rather important. This is why i comment the Video. The wheel that was disembeled was locked into position at once without letting the evetual tension on the belt get lost. So this is the way i whould do. 1. Put the cambelt on as showed in this video. 2. When cambelt is on loosen the 3 screws around the weel You dissasembeled before. (Just losen it a bit so all tension that might be there if You missed ever so slight will be lost.) During this process i have seen in other videos that the tension on the "tensioner" is put in max position. ( Like 50 degrees position) 3. Now we have secured that there is zero tension between the 3 wheels involved since only one wheel is dissembled and the other 2 wheels presumed to be ok in factory settings. This is a very critical procedure i think. Please comment if You think i might be wrong. NOW we tension the bolts at the right amount of Nm to the wheel. 4. Now You finally correct the tensioner to the right position. If 20 degrees surronding temperature in the mittle position. Fasten the screw to the tensioner mittle position and were done.

Jug hack for cleaning was pretty damn smart! Well done! Pretty work all round!

Great video.. was able to change out my camshaft seal no problem. thank you so much. Messed up on way out and over torqued one sprocket bolt so now I’m in the process of drilling it out. Lol but regardless this video helped save my old Volvo s60 to keep it going. Thank you!!

This is a very pleasant video to watch. Getting ready to replace the timing belts on my 95 and 97 Volvo 850s with over 250,000 miles. The kits come with new camshaft seals, so I wanted to see how to do this without cam locking tool, if possible. I was a little surprised you opted not to replace the exhaust cam seal while you were in there since it is so old.

Helpful hint: use sandpaper to take the sharp edge off The bore that the seal goes into so you don’t shave the rubber right off of the outside of the seal. Also, you can fabricate a disk with three holes in it and a large center hole and you can use the three bolts that hold the cam sprocket on to press the seal and evenly and consistently instead of using a hammer.

Interesting to watch even though I don't need to do this. Must have felt good to start the engine for the first time after this job!

Great video! Especially the tensioner adjustment. In addition to counting the teeth, I like to also mark the belt with the paint, another point of reference.

If u have the vvt system i highly recommend you get the cam locking tool and install it, if you remove the pullys you have to do a procedure to set timing to factor spect you loosen the center bolt and remove the center cap loosen the 3 8mm bolts around pully as well before doing all of this tho before you remove anything make sure your lines are all in place on top dead center and install the cam holder once u do that then you remove the cap loosen center t55 bolts and 8mm bolts then tight the center bolt just a bit turn pullys counter clockwise make sure the 3 center bolts are all the way counterclockwise then loosen center bolt again and turn pullys clock wise pully and vvt system clockwise then exhaust cam you turn 1 tooth b4 timing and the other one you turn 1 1/2 tooths b4 timing then u tight center bolt to 120nm then after you tighten it you set pullys to timing then put belt make sure all 3 lines match up turn engine backwards just a bit then turn in clockwise again set it on timing and if all lines match up then u tighten the center cap and hold the pressure on the ratchet and while your doing that you tighten the 3 8mm bolts on each pully as well and then you remove your cam holder tool turn engine 2 times make sure lines match up and your set put it back together and your good to go its a long process but it wont work any other way if u remove pullys to change seals

I know this is an older video....but Either my cam seal or exhaust seal is bad. (2002 Volvo S60 2.4T) This video gives me the confidence to tackle this issue. Thank you sir! By the way, your english is awesome, great job! Youre talking like a regular person and not some "mechanical engineer". Im subscribing and will follow all you do.

Thank you for posting this video! We are experiencing this issue with our 2001 V70 and will be using this video as a reference to replace the seal. We love our Volvo! :)

Good detail in your vid. My son has same car with similar oil loss condition..will investigate if that is the location of leak. Well done!

Excellent video! Saved me mucho$ negating the Volvo special tools and your demonstration on setting tension / timing was far superior to the Haynes Manual.

You made it look easy, I just paid a good chunk for timing belt, water pump, seals and VVT actuator...ALWAYS USE VOLVO OEM ONLY!

Very helpful video. The exact same cam seal come loose in my 2002 s60 it has 165000 miles on the clock. Everything is on order. Need to do it this weekend. Wish me luck :D

I did this work exactly how you said. I wrote down every single step. I counted the teeth before I took the belt off. However when I put everything back together, I counted one less tooth. Everything lined up but one tooth less. Cranked the main shaft again to double check. Everything lined up but one tooth less. I knocked on some wood then turned the ignition and the car started. It idled better than before so it must have gotten out of time when it busted the seal. I swear even though there were a few mishaps in my part, I finished within 2hours. Awesome knowledge you are passing along. Thank you. I appreciate what you do.

thanks for this video it is a genuine DIY , straight to the subject ,more like these kind of videos

Guys, minute 8:07 you can see as exhaust polley rotate anticlockwise itself at least one tooth when you dissamble the belt. I had problems with it when I reinstall the belt. I did not realize this and I thought that as i had not touch anything when all was dissambled the polley was in correct position but was not. I respected all marks and position and when i reinstalled and I switch on a noise come from the engine, i have the vvt polley one tooth backward. Caution guys with VVT system, It has a life of its own.

everything is easy and clear!

I love your clean up container!.....thanks for another superb video

Piston man you're the man. Thanks for your video.same problem with my 2001 Volvo, and thanks to you fixed to keep it on the road 👍

Great tutorial and makes it look easy..I gather the timing marks are pretty self-explanatory on the cam and the cover? Fabtastic please Keep the videos coming you didn’t mention much about the crankshaft sprocket and the timing down there..i suppose if top cam timing right impossible to get the timing wrong on the crank..? Eternal Gratitude Ed

Nice video and well explained. Just started to see this leak on my 09 c30 t5 so will need to do this myself to save $1000-$1500 that shops will charge to do this. Will probably replace the pvc breather box as well cause I replaced the diaphram a while ago and problem is still there.

i have the same issue with my 99 2.9l . Gonna order the seal.cool video

Excellent educational video, clearly presented and a big time & money saver ! many thanks for your time and effort.

Finally some practical intelligence.... thanks for this video.... Have 05 xc90 2.5T 113K... I have the VVT so am not sure if this will apply because there are no marks on sprockets..... and I wish you'd show how to put the timing cover back on... took me over an hour, couldn't get the tabs in.

If got the same problem, very usefull video mate! Trying tomorrow!

300k? Barely out of break-in period! (Lolz) Great simple fix on this. Wish the VVT version was as simple...

Good job, bro! From Kazakhstan.

I also use a square.its actually a speed square,it has a lip you can rest on your horizontal ( plastic cover) .works great for accuracy

Impressive! I love the cleanliness in contrast with the shade tree engineering. Well Done! Do you have a how-to video for replacing the timing belt?

That’s awesome knowledge. Thank you for posting this video.

After 14 months finally had the balls to try this and I just want to thank you again my friend. Added New Oil, antifreeze, fuel and a new battery and turned the key and it's sounds smooth to me. There is.a faint squel which I think may be the oil when it sprayed all over may have came on the belts. I wanted to ask you something is it okay for a week or so to drive without the timing belt Cover ? Just to make sure things are good ? Will a rainy day be a problem without that cover ? Again God bless you for this video I really appreciate it.

very good!! so, don't need to get the cam locking tool? just to confirm. Got the answer futher in the video. thanks a lot!!

Thanks for the vid! That was helpful gaining the confidence to just jump into this project.

Thank you, im a volvo fan and need replace just what you showed in video on my 2001 s60. I also have - 98 v70 and my son have two v70's. One mk1 and one mk2.

well done sir, thank you! take apart as little as possible, great approach

Wonderful video. Thank you! You are a great teacher.

just spray paint the cam gear before undoing the cam bolts it leaves easy to see marks for bolt heads to align cam gear.

Hey nice video,, except that music .. Your engine PCV system is getting plugged and crankcase pressure becomes the force that pushes seals out under boost. Your exhaust cam or rear main seal will likely get pushed out next and you definitely need locking tool to torque 80 ft/lbs center bolt on exhaust cam sprocket. Keep up good work.

MY COMMENT BELOW DESCRIBES A "MIRACLE FIX" FOR THIS PROBLEM DESCRIBED IN VIDEO, with zero wrenching work!! By the way, I'm not a woman. Just "borrowing" another person's account here. Also, this man's "workaround" of the standard repair, without using the cam locker, is impressive. But I think he could have succeeded with my repair here too. This is because his seal failed on a timing belt pulley that was the non-VVVT type, which allows you to push it back in through the pulley holes and paint on the Blue Devil Oil Sealer through those same holes. Impossible on later models with the two VVVT hubs, as I see it. (Also impossible if his rear cam seal went out, as it's a VVVT hub, same as mine. These two are the seals in the front of motor. I don't know anything about the "rear engine" cam seals.)

Very nice vid. Thank you. Would have been good to see you remove a replace VVT actuator sprocket to see if the actuator creates any issues/challenges extra to the non-actuator sprocket. One question: when you are replacing the sprocket - so long at the cam has not moved at all - surely it doesnt matter how you put the sprocket back on?? Yes?

Good video. My car has a tappets problems have you a video for that?

Nice video thank you.Can you do a video when you replace the vvt.My car sounds like a diesel car right now lol

Thank you very MUCH

good video, i have to do the exhaust side what will be about the same 👍thanks.

Ty good info brother 😊

The camshaft seal came off because of excessive crankcase pressure. You should clean the PCV system. Good video!

wonderful!!!thank you very much for share .

Hi, I wanted to thank you for this video. I am looking into a 2003 volvo s60 and I have never owned a Volvo, nor do I know anything about them. What should I look out for, other than this massive oil leak issue? Thank you so much, again. I look forward to watching more of your videos.

Thanks

Super helpfull video.

Have you tried this on the vvt? I think in addition to the crank lock method you are doing I will clamp the sprocket on the vvt to the belt to keep that cam from moving when you break that 90 ft lb torx inner bolt!

Instead of count the threads ( just mark the belt with yellow marker. some belts comes with markings, most don't also good way that you put everything stays the same

Awesome ,thanks for sharing

Thanks for your valuable info. What if i rolled the cam wheel backwards?

great job, excellent information

Do not attempt this with a VVT hub as they have play/or are spring loaded and need to be set/timed at the clockwise limit when reinstalling - impossible without the cam locking tool installed on the rear end of the cams. This video shows replacement of non-VVT intake cam seal.

I was just curious why you didn't discuss what might have cause the seal to blow? Did you check your oil ventilation system and determine it wasn't plugged?

Hi I have the exact same issue... I went out stuck the screwdriver behind the gear and there it was! saved me a bunch of diagnosis time. I have same set up no vvt on intake... just curious while you were there you didnt replace the other seal seems inevitable that it will go too...

Just as a point of consistency, at 16:15 or so you say to not get lube on the outer diameter of the seal - I agree with that and I might put a touch of loctite. However when you apply grease to the camshaft, you also smeared grease around the outer rim. That disagreed a lot with what you had said.

Hi great video! Well done! Just wondering, since the VVT cam is spring loaded, will you not risk it moving when loosening the belt?

I am do the same thing I was curious why you did not replace the second cam seal on the back pulley? Wouldn't they both be dry and brittle by now? Including the crank seal at the bottom

my 06 volvo xc70 2.5t developed a slight coolant leak about 20000 miles ago that has progressed gradually since.it also developed an oil leak started about the same of time and rate of progression .for the past month have been adding a quart of oil and about a pint of coolant every sunday. the (low coolant stop safely)message appears every time the coolant drops below the min line on res.tank and i always stop and add the little bit, less than a pint to the tank putting it back up in between the min/max lines.it has never gotten the least bit hot or made the needle move from just below top dead center on the gauge and the low oil pressure message or oil light ever come on .Today however i was less than 1 mile from home when the low coolant message came on which is normal by the end of the week and the oil light came on for the 1st time ever and by the time i turned in my driveway no oil pressure turn off engine message came across the message board i immediately turned off the car and coasted into my drive.i got out and popped the hood there was quite a bit of oil and coolant dripping from everywhere on that side of the engine compartment what would most likely cause that to happen the same day? camshaft seal and waterpump ??? there is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil

Hey dude, what engine symptoms will the car suffer if the camshaft seal has worn out and needs replacing?.

Perfect. Just did my 2002 Volvo v70 XC. AWD Do you have a video on replacing the PVC System?

I replaced both front cam seals of a S70 year 99, locked the cams at the back beforehand. Put the vvt hub back in the previously marked resting position and spring loaded at the time of belt installation. When I test rotate the engine manually ,there is a spot where the sprocket timing marks align with the top cover I have to have a bigger force to move through and the tensioner roller arm swings to the right and a half circle later swings to the left showing less tension. Is there a conflict in the system which can be fatal if motor being turned on. Thanks if you could answer this and for this clear descriptive video you've posted.

AWESOME VIDEO THANKS

What other seals blew out after replacing this one?? I'm pretty sure you had further problems caused by a clogged PCV.

Do you have to keep exhaust from moving by keeping timing belt tight with bungle cord

Thank you for sharing this!! Yesterday my 06 S40 engine just shutoff while driving. The engine will turn when attempting to start but it won’t start. I check the T-belt and it looks good. However, when trying to start the engine, it does sound as if I had removed all spark plugs and then tried to start the engine. It sounds es as if it didn’t have any compression. What could this be?

how do get a b3.3 cummins on TDC? thank you. Love your videos

In my 2001 the cam seal just fell out halfway, and poured oil. I just pushed it in without removing anything lol

This guy sounds exactly like another youtuber called "Integza"

Hi its Dan, I have oil on the engine along the diesel injectors, could you please tell me where its coming from, thank you, Dan

So if you make the marks on the sprocket and inside of the camshaft you don't have to lock in place the back of the camshaft?

Piston Shack, thank you for this video. I am trying to do the same but it seems the cam shaft turned slightly when I removed the bolts from the pulley. How do I get the shaft realigned with the original position?

How easy is it to replace the exhaust cam seals using this method? I think the exhaust cam gear might be harder to remove.

Hi PistonShack, thanks for your video. I replaced my timing belt as part of regular maintenance without using any camshaft locking tool and never thought replacing the intake and exhaust seal because I had no leaking issue and now I have it from the Exhaust camshaft. Did you have any idea or tip how to replace it and my concern here is how to tide it with sponge cord to secure the exhaust sprocket from moving as you easy done with your intake sprocket.!

Notice: If your ‘this type of engine’ suddenly overheats. It may be the water pump impeller ? There are obviously such made out of plastic (!?). No need to mention how good that it. To say this motor is marked by TDC is by definition wrong, it is more like a point of reference because none of the cylinders may be at top dead center ..

What if the exhaust cam is leaking... would locking it with the 30mm still work, I understand some may spring loaded etc. but in terms of needing the cam lock, is it a necessity for the exhaust side?

Timing belt was replaces as well as camshaft seal was replaces on my volvo S60. After the repair car turned on run 200miles parked in my driveway and won't turn back on...hoping it's just a tension easy fix...what do you recommend

I will start this process tomorrow. However, I started today but could not find the mark for the timing on the main crankshaft below. If I line up both top timing marks, will that work. I cannot make out the bottom mark.

Hey bro thanks for the video !!! Quick question.... Do you live in the Seattle area ?

I found it best to pull the belt tight onto the intake first

Can you follow the same or approximate method for the VVt version?