David Ryan how did the car perform post repair?

after 9 years it was still covered under warranty??

There's no tool to remove the injectors, they're held down by a spring bracket and some small screws with 5mm Allen heads. It would be beneficial to install a filter on the return line to keep the debris out of the fuel tank, but it's not terrible to clean out and in my opinion not entirely necessary to replace. The ideal place for a filter would be right after the hpfp, but the extreme pressures create a problem.

Hello Andy, can you clarify the cost? Did vw cover part of it since it went bad a little over 120k miles? Or did it cost $1300 US to fix? How long did it take to fix? Thank you in advance

I guess we are in the same situation. I'm in Canada and here is my story, I hope we can shame VW in Media. I'm trying to build my case. I got a story for all TDI owner that you would not believe. Just recently I had HPFP failure on my 2013 Passat TDI about 2 months aprox 10,000 kms after the emissions fix. It was the classic failure glow plug lights flashing loosing power quickly to never start again. Searched on the internet and used VCDS to scan the car and confirmed that HPFP has failed. I called the dealership and they said HPFP and fuel system is covered under Emissions fix extended warranty (Canada). The only time it will not covered if they find fuel contamination. I thought I would be extra careful After I heard so much about VW finding an escape goat and not to covering things under Warranty. I drained the fuel tank (which I tested was 100% diesel) and there is no way I will miss fuel my TDI as this is my 3rd TDI. I remember filling up at the ESSO gas station and their was Sprinter guy waiting behind me to finish so that he can fill his tank. Anyways I emptied the tank using VCDS and running the pump. After that I went to another gas station and bought 23 liters of Diesel fuel in the can and dumped it in the tank. Cleaned the fuel filter reservoir and change the filter. Next day I Called VW road side assistance and had the vehicle to towed to the dealer. After couple of days I called the dealer as I had no update from them. The service advisor told me that they smell gas in my tank. I said there is no way and went to see the car. When the showed me the tank with fuel pump removed (under the rear seat), I told them how come it seems like its more than quarter of tank. They said that they had to top it up in order to troubleshoot. I asked them what kind of troubleshooting is this, that it needs more than 1/4 of tank. They insisted that it smell of petrol and it may be that I had put gas instead of diesel in the car. I told them that this car has filler neck to stop a gas nozzle from fueling the car. I asked them to do fuel analysis and let me know the results. I called them a couple of days later and the service rep told me that VW was coming to get fuel for analysis. After that I did not hear back from them. I called them again as its now approaching two weeks since they have my car in the shop and no rental was provided to me. They tell me that the service rep is not at her desk and they will get back to me. So finally at the end of day on Friday I call them again and ask to talk to the service rep and she told me that the car would not covered under warranty as it has contaminated fuel (petrol mixed with diesel). I told them that I need to talk to the service manager. When I talke dto him I had few basic questions for him. How did you come to the conclusion that the fuel is contaminated and why did your shop mechanic felt a need to add more fuel to the tank. I gave the car with 1/4 tank of fuel and now its past 1/2 tank. He had no answers for me and told me to talk to my Insurance company. I went and confronted him and still he had no answers. I asked for report on the fuel and he said they don't have any, all they know is that fuel is contaminated. I had my car towed to my home the same day and started documented everything. I did the fuel test with Styrofoam cup and found that it had petrol in it. I did the same test on original fuel that I had saved and no traces of petrol. I once again drained the fuel and refueled and sent it to different dealership and waiting on the response. I have video tapped everything on draining and drying the tank and then refueling with new diesel. Also have the Styrofoam tests on video. I'm so mad at VW dealership and will be brining out my story to the Media. Hopefully its only one bad dealer and not the VW itself. We will see... I will keep everyone posted. I keep on remembering the VW CEO statement, We have to build the trust again.. yeah right.

The engine is fine it’s just the fuel system. A Cp3 fuel pump upgrade will prevent it. Unfortunately for a few reasons the job isn’t super cheap either unless you do it yourself. Alternatively you can get these engines form crashed cars under 60k miles for $500-900 which is already cheaper than four new injectors and you have a bunch of other spare parts then. The injectors are really great Piezoelectric tech but they are definitely expensive if damaged. The engine is surprisingly easy to work on when you get used to it but most people have to pay someone to do anything past basic maintenance and labor costs are more than the parts.

@@navsidhu4087 I don't know why I'm just now seeing this, but it sounds like to me, that THEY are the ones that added gasoline to your car! In my case, they had my car for almost 90 days. They eventually did a "goodwill" and paid for labor and VW paid for parts but they refused to fix mine under warranty. It's so ridiculous. And as soon as I had the repaired car back, I told them about this weird buzzing sound that wasn't there before. I told them it has to be related to the HPFP fix, because it only started after they repaired it. They misdiagnosed things until I convinced a different VW dealership to look at the fuel line, and lo and behold, they had installed the fuel line BACKWARDS. I'm done buying volkswagen.

@@MLBuckProductions Did the buzzing sound occur only after the engine reached normal operating temperature? We are experiencing a buzzing sound after warmup on our A3 TDI after gas was added to the diesel when refueled by a friend and driven only about 2 miles. No metal filings were found in fuel system. No error codes. Dealer replaced fuel pumps other than the HPFP, removed contaminated fuel, cleaned fuel lines.

Is this a CP1?

Matt Herold no, it’s a CP4.1

Yeaci was wondering the same this just happened to my car and it wont crank at all

Did you solve the issue without changing all the parts?

I did end up changing all of the parts he suggested. I did buy a lot of them used but still cost about $2,000

gmanxray yes it worked just as new after replacing the pumps and injectors and cleaning everything else. The challenging part was priming the fuel system without diagnostic software. For that I just hard wired both electric pumps to run for a bit (20 seconds or so, rested, and again 20 seconds) and it cranked right up.

@@kiellish Wow, that's awesome. Are you a mechanic? Do you have a shop? If so where? Or would you be willing to share the list of all the parts you replaced i can give you my email. By diagnostic tool im assuming you're speaking of vcds. I have it. I have changed the fuel filter before. It was fairly easy to prime the fuel lines with it. I know this is may not be the most convenient way to communicate, would it be easier to communicate by email or phone (id feel better giving you my number by email though)? Im desperate. Anyhow, if you can't, it's cool i understand, the video is more than ive seen, very helpful. Thank you

There is nothing to orient the piston in the bore. The piston and roller stays oriented in the bore by the pressure and friction of the pump's cam lobe as it spins. It works fine until it doesn't anymore. . You have to add lubricity to your fuel if you live in America or you run the risk of this happening. The quality control of adding lubricity to the fuel as it is delivered from the retail pumps in the U.S. is so poor it's ridiculous. A couple of tankfulls of low lubricity fuel or gasoline contaminated fuel will take out this pump.

+donnyguns1 Yours would qualify under the extended warranty. Call your dealer and give them your VIN. They'll tell you if it qualifies for any extended warranties, particularly the HPFP. Also, ask about if the misfueling guard applies to your car. If you want to be covered under that warranty if your pump goes out, then ask about the misfuelling guard to be installed since without it, they won't cover it.

You can remove the lifter assembly on the pump and inspect the cam as well without too much work. It's just four screws and it lifts out and exposes everything. See the breakdown in the video. However, you have some time before the warranty extension expires, so don't worry too much.

Biodiesel actually has good lubricity. Hard to find anything other than biodiesel here in IL. But i fuel at a Sam’s Club which claims 5% bio.

This is on a VW TDI engine. High Pressure Fuel Pumps (HPFP), Pump a fluid called Fuel, in this case diesel fuel. Your Mini Cooper is probably a little different. Learn how it works and what it specifically has, to then find parts and tools for the job. You are the main tool for the job so sharpen up and the others will fall in. Good luck brother! Also, do you have any exclusive VW stuff down there that you would trade for some American stuff?

I took the injectors to a place that specializes in cleaning/building injectors and they did their best, but I had to buy new ones. They told me they couldn’t be salvaged. If you find that they can be cleaned, provide us with some details! Best of luck with your repair. The dealer will replace the fuel tank out of an abundance of caution, if you are reusing it be sure to clean it out really well before installing the new fuel pumps.

You will have to completely empty all the fuel and remove the tank and all sensors/pump. Then manually clean loose debris out and then what I have done is spray degreaser and let it sit for a few minutes. Then wipe or spray it out and repeat until you can take a clean white cloth to it and nothing sticks to it. You will have to be extremely meticulous because you won't want to do this again. Also, fill up with high quality fuel when the tanks at the station at not being refilled or just have been. The sediment that this kicks up in the bottom of the diesel tank at a station is absolutely absurd. This is what causes the wear on these pumps.

@@iansrving thanks for the reply! I've been cleaning it like crazy, So hoping for the best.

@@DenverRoyer No problem at all. It really sucks and that's why I am upgrading to a CP3 pump on my next timing belt service. They do not have the metallurgy issues that our CP4.1 pumps have. The conversion kit is worth the $800 and they flow twice the amount that the stock pump does... not that I plan on racing my daily.

@@iansrving Where did you get the kit? Is it somewhat easy to do? Will the kit work on a 2013 passat tdi?

Vinny B hey man, yea it sounds like the injectors are clogged. They are easy to remove with normal tools - box wrench for the lines and I think a 5mm Allen for the injector screws. They are held down with brackets below the silver plates you see on the top of the valve cover. Remove the small Allen head bolts, twist the silver oil seals 90 degrees and remove the lower retainers, and pull up the plates and injectors together. Remove the lines and connectors beforehand though, and be careful when relieving the pressure in the common rail. Also, basically everything after the pump will have remaining debris that will clog the new injectors, so it's important to disassemble and clean all that out as well.

Brian Kiellish thanx for the reply, yeah I removed the whole thing all the Libes and cleaned them out with brake parts cleaner and compressed air. then I primed the system and attempted to start it, but will not start now. I'm going to check the tank and see if there's any metal in there. she's going g to get injectors for it but I just couldn't figure out how to take them off, its pretty jammed in there.

Vinny B as long as you're sure it's fully primed then it's most likely the injectors. I got mine from the dealer for about 250 each.

well the HPFP is filled, the injector rail and lines I primed using the inline pump, but I'm not sure if there is pressuer at the rail. I have no CEL on or anything so I'm guessing that the pressure is right. Is there another way to test the PSI at the rail?

Did you ever fix your car for the buyback? How much in parts was it?

Igor Sirbu It sounds like your fuel system needs to be primed. It can be done with software or some scanners if you have that option. If you're like me, you don't have that expensive equipment. I ran some wires from the battery to both electric fuel pumps and ran them for about 30 seconds. Then shut off, ran again for another 15 seconds or so and repeated this process a few more times. It fired up relatively quickly after this process, about 5 seconds or so of cranking.

Brian Kiellish thank you for quick reply. I primed the fuel with Delphi software and it sounded like both fuel pumps (the aux, and the interior one) were running. did it at least three times before starting. will try to do it manually as you mentioned. maybe the Delphi software is not good enough. thanks again!

Igor Sirbu any time! Listen to the pumps running, you will hear air rushing through and being purged if any remains. If you hear a nice consistent hum from the pumps and lines, it's most likely good to go. If it ran good for 5 seconds and died, it could be a security issue involving the immobilizer. Is the security light flashing?

the issue was in the hpfp itself. it had a microscopic dirt inside it. I removed the head of the pump into pieces, cleaned it up, put it back, primed for 3 times and it started right away. all this thanks to 2micron from tdi club. I would have never thought about this. cheers!

Igor Sirbu great news. Glad you figured it out. That's also the easiest way to examine the condition of the pump - by removing that top assembly. Where was the dirt and what was it blocking?

Lou's Auto Repair no need to code them, plug and play

You don’t have to code them I bought some used one off another car and worked

If you replace all its not needed because they normall wear evenly. But if you replace less and install new one it's better to code them so it adjust to the wear of the others.

Yes, it should be. Check with your dealership.

No, it only covers 2009-2012. I have a 2013 with 78K miles and VW rejected the repairs.

Ftrt Rpih man that sucks. Sorry to hear that. In that case you'll need to perform the repair shown in the video. The only thing you could probably avoid buying is the injector lines as long as you're careful to not damage the mating surfaces. The injectors will surely be clogged if the pump is similarly damaged.

+kent r Good Advice

Mark Benoit no scan tool required. Just disconnect the battery before unplugging any electrical connectors. A scan tool would make priming the fuel pumps easier, but I did it just by running wires from the battery. I've been told the scan tool software will run the pumps for a period of time, rest and run again to get air pockets out. I didn't really experience any trouble manually running them, I primed them for maybe 15 or 20 seconds at first, rested for a few seconds and then let them both run for about a minute until I heard no air in the system. There's no need to code any parts, everything works as soon as you prime the fuel pumps.

No, the dealer only sells the pump as a whole. You would technically need the camshaft and lifter most importantly. However, other parts of the pump would still be exposed to the floating debris, it's best to replace the whole thing.

I just need this P. O. S. To fire off for 10 seconds for the buyback

VW will fix it for free if the vehicle has less than 120k miles

What additive you recommend

Yes what additive do you recommend?

Biodiesel actually has good lubricity. Hard to find anything other than biodiesel here in IL. But i fuel at a Sam’s Club which claims 5% bio.

I'd have to agree, my 09 A4 has the CAHA engine same set up as here, 350,000 kms no problems, im a mechanic here in Ireland the 2.0 CR engines are very reliable. The Bosch cp4 is not as rugged as the cp3 however thats bulletproof. Also the 1.6tdi CAYC engines with the Siemens/ Conti pumps are extremely rugged have a taxi client with 720,000kms on his skoda supreme 2012 1.6tdi. You need to check your diesel, here we only see catastrophic failure after a misfuel condition with petrol.

***** Honda diesels or the older Toyota AD engine diesels (I believe there were 1.8/2.0 and 2.2 models). If you can find an ancient 1.9 PD engined VW like a Golf or Passat. Those are capable of 300,000 miles generally. Ancient Peugeot's with DW8 diesels were pretty damn good. The older BMW diesels with the M47 was a fairly decent engine. There was also an older 5 cylinder diesel engine made by BMW that was pretty good. In the UK and European market the Landrover Discovery and Defender were made with the TD5 engine. That is probably the best engine that Landrover ever made. Its not great but its an old fashioned design from Rover in the 80's. Plenty of parts in scrap yards in the UK. The engines are well worth rebuilding even though most have had a hard life.

***** UK. Where half of our vehicles are diesel. In Europe some countries are more than 75% diesel.

Theyre designed for low sulfur fuel.