I'm so happy i found this build on YT, hello from the US! Keep up the amazing work man I look forward to watching the whole series!

Had mine remapped, totally transformed the way the van drives!!!

I have just done a 10 episode marathon... superb job chap. Really enjoyed watching and the spray job looks fantastic.

I watched the whole project today. Don't lose your spirit and keep up the good work! I love my T5 and it's the best car I ever owned. It's worth the pain. Cheers from Germany!!!

+1 gasket causing boost issue. Just done mine. Found a recon head on eBay for less than £300 exchange - saved me skimming, testing, dealing with valves. Frustration for me was all the stretch bolts it needed; cam caps; injectors etc. I also did my EGR while it was off with oven cleaner and a coat hanger on the drill. On the plus side Dan, it's good for the channel! I felt your pain ha, ha.

Just watched through all videos! Really enjoying the series. I'd love to have a van myself 😊👍

Brilliant content as always can't wait to start my build

Keep up the good work Danny, lovin the series 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

Great series! I'm not mechanically minded and dont have a T5. But...entertaining and great to see the rebuild. Van looks proper smart. Cheers for making this!

Massive knowledge. Pleasure to watch. I love your "RATSPORTER"😉

That warning light is pads not abs. Thanks for the video. Glad to see the diesel filter is so easy as ill be doing that soon!

Awesome stuff man. Eating these episodes up.

Gutted for you after all that work, I've got confidence in you sorting it👌

Perfect timing, just about to do the dodgy driveshafts in mine!

Chin up Dan! I'm sure you'll get it sorted!........ If anyone can..... Dan can! Great vid. I've gotta do the 'moo valve' on our shuttle! Now I know how!

If you suspect you have a blown head gasket, that could potentially also cause boost loss. When you accelerate, some of your initial exhaust gasses might be escaping out of your leaky gasket. So at low rpms you don’t have enough exhaust pressure to spin the turbo. It’s only at higher rpms that the pressure builds enough for boost. In effect, a leaky head gasket has given you extra turbo lag, because it might be taking longer to spool.

Hey Dan, stumbled across your channel a couple of days ago, fantastic, been watching the episodes back to back. I’ve done 3 vans up in the last 7 years, getting braver each time. Fitted windows and Kombi seat floor brackets in my latest one. I’m planning another build for next year and was thinking of painting it with Upol bed liner paint but might change that after watching your channel and do something similar👍. Saw what you did with the drivers seat, the broken foam is really easy to fix, I’ve done several, just buy some high density foam and some scrim foam netting. Take the seat cover off, cut away the damaged section with serrated bread knife, cut and shape a new piece of foam and use spray trim fix to glue it into position then cover and glue onto the whole section of seat with the scrim foam net. Once you refit the cover it will be like a new foam cushion. The foam costs £10-00 and I’m sure you’ve got trimfix glue left over from the carpet lining. Good luck and I can’t wait for the next van project to start 😀

Yes, I was about to write when I saw that there was oil on the engine everywhere, it's either the valve cover gasket or, as you said, it's steaming out of the water tank, it was clear the head gasket unfortunately. Luckily I had that too, it's easy with this engine 😉

Keep your chin up Dan someone will help you with this property this is what we watch these video for 👍

Dude these videos are amazing

Hope you get it sorted. My 2.4 Alfa wouldn't boost until you gave it some revs. Then it'd put the check engine light on if you gave it too much. Changed the n75, no boost leaks. Think the turbo had gotten a bit rusty sitting in my mates garage for seven weeks. In the end the dmf needed doing again, so I binned it off. Loving the vids. 👍

Love your videos man,i looked at all of them last night tks to a toothache.keep up the good work 🤘

I had a similar problem with the coolant on my 1.9 BRS engine. When driving, exhaust gasses would pressurise the coolant and cause all the coolant to drain through the relief valve. Ended up changing the head gasket myself, probably ended up costing me around £250 all in plus I ended up fixing a few things along the way such as cleaning the intake manifold (~180k miles with direct injection meant it was pretty nasty). If you do end up changing the head gasket yourself, (took me about 2 days) at least you will get chance to take the turbo off and check for stuck vanes which could be causing your boost problem. A bit of clean up with a wire brush and you should be good. Now added close to another 60k miles and it's as good as new.

Dan, don’t get disheartened, we have all had projects that seem to try and drag you down, just keep chipping away one problem at a time. Could be vnt on turbo as already mentioned, could be vacuum hoses, you can test this with a vacuum pump. Could be egr stuck also. Brake light on dash may be brake pad warning. Pressured header tank is more than likely head gasket related.

My last motor was vw golf tdi, had boost problems replaced pipes and what not, in the end it sounded like a had a owl under the bonnet lol I did do loads of research on it and scanned it with a snap on scanner which still pointed to boost.. in the end I see a fix where people clean The TURBO with mr muscle oven cleaner, if your stuck and you’ve ran out of ideas give it ago as mine pulled like a train after. And saved myself tons of money. Just google up on it mr muscle oven cleaner turbo fix. Won’t bother explaining how it’s done as your find loads of guides. Worth a shot geezer all you need is one can of MM over cleaner and a piece of fish tank air line (hose). Also a wd40 straw with the wd lid to use with the mr muscle Can, and you probs know the rest.

MAP sensor (mass air pressure) located on turbo pipe. As for the light on dash it's brake pad warning lamp. Probly niped a wire when installing coilovers. Sensor only couplea quid replace that first. Hope this info helps! Nice van dan

Hi Dan. Excellent channel. I've just changed my pollen filter after watching and it was in the same state as yours. What's annoying is that I have been paying for a service every year for the last four years and it hasn't been changed. Also having issues with turbo lag at the moment and have changed the MAF sensor. I'll see how it goes.

If it helps the turbo vanes are sticking. Realistically needs to be replaced too rectify. I have had success using revive turbo cleaner. I have to agree with head gasket has failed. I have used exhaust gas probe in expansion bottle to detect gases as this as generally better than block test on diesel engines. had these problems with these vans many times all in excess of 140k with gasket failure.turbos more often.i find that using castrol longlife oil and changing every 10k seems to prevent turbo failure/sticking vanes. Also had crack in cylinder head several times. If you do remove cylinder get it crack tested will save alot of hassle. And check head for flatness/warping at same time. Best of luck

Also boost issue could be your maf sensor which don't normally show up on a scan

Good morning, brake pads light on dash, could be the wear sensor that goes to the front LH wheel, small wire . This often becomes damaged/corroded, you can get this turned off when plugged in with a reader/software. This is what happened on my 55 plate

Hi Matt my one was the MAF sensor.

Bugger me, so that’s where the pollen filter is. 👍🏻 need to change mine. Thanks

Dan, turbo waste gate actuator is probably the cause of the boost issue. Had the same issue on my passat. There is a video on here showing how to test with a cheap vacuum tester.

Yeh a new video 👌🏻🙋🏻‍♂️

Common problem with abs is wiring at the rear pillar(at door frame) factory crimps will rotten out.

Yeah agreed that's not your ABS light it's the low brake pad light. ABS is similar but is red or can be yellow with ABS in centre circle. Good luck n great videos. Any joy on ya bumper dye yet? 👍👍👍👍

Hello a great video perfect 👍👍👍from Germany 🇩🇪 👋👋👋Kai

If I had a place like that to work from I would do a detailed head gasket replacement on it,hopefully the head isn’t warped,I think you are capable of doing the head gasket,plus it would make for a great long video

Its little surprised no one changes the pollen filter with the amount of work required.

The flat spot when pulling away could be the MAS on those.

The turbo is in the ecu map not to kick in until 2 thousand revs is reached, it's something the manufacturers put in to safeguard the engine

You got a kink in one of the pipes you put on the valve ,sharp 90 degree bend

ABS faults. usually the pick up on the hub has corroded. Or you have drilled in too far to remove the old sensor and damaged the pick up. To replace the pick up it’s a complete hub unit with bearing. 🙂

I had a similar problem on a 2004 BMW 320cd. Didn’t throw up any lights on the dash. After a bit of research I narrowed it down to the Mass Air flow Meter. Changed it for a £30 eBay jobbie and it never did it again. Broke the car for pieces when it got to 247k miles

Thought the header tank was looking a bit smoky when you changed the fuel filter. Be worth getting a sniff test done. I had a similar issue to what you described with the coolant disappearing on a PD130 Golf years ago. Turned out to be a cracked head in the end 🙈

Yes, 100% stuck vanes on the turbo and head gasket causing water jacket to over pressurize, remember to fit a new set of stretch bolts when rebuilt the head. Good luck. Both fixable on a budget.

One is the vanes. Pain in the rear As for the water pressure it's common. Once pressure to drop. Of the level goes back to original level when cap comes off then it's fine. I overfill the bottle so that when it does pressure sits at max level

if the pollen filter is active carbon, it is black from factory :) you forgot to change the transmission oil, very important step and million of people doesn't know that. as for your problem, it will disappear if your speed gauge would work, it's not reading speed and for all it cares, it's stopped. I had that problem and what you have done with speed, is the correct solution.

Another great video and really enjoying watching the journey. I did wonder where the pollen filter was. I wonder why they make it so difficult to access.

Your head gasket is likely gone. Will need to be skimmed as well . I done mine a few months ago t5 1.9 same as yours . It's easy enough. Plenty of room to work with. A sniff test will tell you for sure if it's gone or not.

Lovely Jubbly video, but I hope your able to fix it, and it's not to expensive matey.

Do a smoke test.wheel sensor. No power bad turbo. Love love you videos.

Hi dan, i dont know if you fixed the turbo problem, but i had the same issue (same engine, boost issues etc) and found an article that sorted the problem. By adding archoil- 6400 into the fuel, it cleans out the turbo by gas emissions, the only caveat is that you have to fill up the tank and drive it.... alot! To get the turbo hot and the archoil through to clean it. Anywho it worked for me and thought i’d share it with you to see if it helps. Good work on your bus mate!

Hi Dan, are you using the silicone hoses for the replacement,, I've used silicone hoses on a few turbo charged engines, Escort Cosworth being one of them, lifetime warranty, worth the money, no loss of power/boost. Great Great video.

Had same fault on my 2.5 which turned out my DPF was completely blocked so the turbo would struggle to spool up due to lack of exhaust flow. I know yours hasn't got dpf but cat could be blocked. Disconnect front pipe front turbo and take it for a blast, if you get boost then you know the exhaust is blocked.

Hi dan awesome videos helped me out loads! Did you find out what the boost issue was as my t5 does the same?

great vid dan ,bad luck on engine.

The speedo plug is connected to ABS check that the plug is clipped on and should solve the issue

Change the hoses both to and from the valve, if they are perished, cracked or do not seal tightly they will cause vacuum issues which will in turn affect turbo boost.

Dan, great vid and content as usual. I had a similar issue on my 1.9 Audi (different engine I know!) and it turned out to be the fuel solenoid, it was sticking and starving it of fuel until it reached a suitable level and then sprung into action from 2k onwards. For the sake of £10/15 might be worth it? Good luck

Hi great videos so far my works t5 which is a 56 reg with 158000 on the clock sounds like a chuffing train at the moment haha been told is the turbo reducer ? Yours like like turbo lag ? But you haven’t said about a turbo so I take it it haven’t gone one ? Keep up the great work

Dan I have the same coolant issue and ABS issue (no speedo and intermittent fuel gauge). I’ve been told it’s an ABS module that’s needs fixing / replacing. Yet to do it though.... the coolant issue is really getting me down but there’s some great comments on here mate

I had similar issues with my vectra. Pulling out of junctions or at traffic lights had absolutely no go until around 2500 revs and then took it off. Was fairly dangerous. I noticed a small oil leak at my vacuum pump. Took it off, cleaned it and new gasket and fixed the issue. Maybe worth a look?

Can you post your parts list as I'm looking at doing some of these jobs myself. Thank you in advance P.S. Big Fan of the channel 👏 🤙👌

Did you do the egr valve and mass flow sensor because it could be causing the fault but I could be wrong

Hi Dan another question how did u get your bumpers looking gloss black are they sprayed or heated and polished?? Great work on the t5 good vids

Hey Dan, loving the series mate! I’ve just done a 165k service myself learned how to do most of it from your vids 👍🏼 can I ask what you use on your bumpers to look so clean n fresh? Mine are pretty faded, most products worth for about a week then fade :( cheers Ant

Hi Matt it could bd your air flow meter mine was like that air flow meter sorted it, cheers

unplug the MAF sensor and take it for a run 👍

If it is an abs light I ha a similar problem on an Audi A4 which was a faulty brake pedal switch. It put my abs and stability light on dash. Part of the circuit apparently. Just sits under brake pedal

That's the 'brake pads low' light! Not ABS. If your pads are ok, join the wires going to them. There's one on the ns/f and one on the os/r. If that doesn't fix it, there's a break in the wiring elsewhere. I couldn't find the break on my 2006 Shuttle, so turned the warning off with VCDS.

Why it state oil cooler in the title but no work done on the oil cooler?.. Updated I was wrong, Dan does change the oil cooler. Great vid 👍

god damn, I feel for you!! hope the head gasket isn't too horrible to change. My gearbox seals shat themselves last week. not that it makes you feel better, but im in shit creeek also with my t5. if head gasket is gone, aren't you loosing boost pressure because of that? and could your egr be stuck open? making the air feul ratio shit until the map changes at 2k rev mark? also, I had abs sensor wires broken on the loom where they flex off the chassis. give that a check for continuity

Variable vains sticking causes boost issues. Maf sensor usually gives no boost at all no matter what the rpm

My t5 popped up with many of the same dash lights when I turned it on after a few weeks including the intermittent fuel level warning and no speedo. Turns out it is a pin problem on the ECU, it's being fixed right now. I'll let you know how it goes.

Hey dude could possibly be turbo actuator sticking or egr clogged get some mr muscle to clean the egr and spray it in the turbo Vains let it soak for a few hours it should clear it 👍

Ref; ABS light. local garage had mine for a total of 3wks trying to get the light off. Ended up takin it to VW. Turned out to be a faulty, non genuine, hub sensor the local garage had fitted at the start. Did you fit genuine sensors?

the warning light is not abs, it is brake lad low warning light. so when you fitted new pads you might not have plugged one of the sensors in or possibly broken wire. the power problem will most likely be injector or maf sensor problem. hard to tell without plugging it in and checking codes etc.

It’s gonna be head gasket mate, pop a PD130 6 speed in it

Reckon the vanes on the turbo are sticking or the turbo actuator is incorrectly set giving boost at the wrong time. As for the coolant fault, more than likely the head

Hi Dan, what mileage did this have when you bought it? I'm shopping for a T5 at the moment, ideally post 2010 with reasonable mileage..wondering if i'm being too picky. Any advice appreciated.

Man these filters are so much easier to get to than on my T4 :/

Could be the MAF senser or sticky vains on the turbo

Waste gate jamming ? Lube it up jet a bit of wood jam it up and down till it’s free cold van Run down driveway if it works ok you know. Problem is when van gets to temp it will happen again. So replacement. Complete turb or. Wg may be. Check vacuum pipes to waste g too. I recon turb will only last 180 thou miles on vw works van. What engine is in it ??? 👍👍👍👍

Is that air box so when you're at the beach your kids can make sandcastles? 😜😁

Is the rod on the turbo sticking at low pressure? I saw you changed all the boost pipes so probably not a leak. Good luck.

💙

Probably the light on the dash is pad warning light wiring maybe broken

That’s the low pad warning light isn’t it. Also looks like your speed sensor isn’t working. Can give issues. Also try and unplug the maf. See if it helps boost problem

Hello and what trials &tribulations you are going through, you looked gutted there I was to last night I put a tensioner and alternator clutch pulley on as i was fitting the new belt,I could hear a drip it was the metal water pipe rusted check yours it's a common problem worth doing while striped down comes out the thermostat housing and runs round the front of the block to th matrix pipes on bulkhead. Ok I've had simmilar block your EGR valve of loss of boost through egr as stuck open so boost will escape down you exhaust, also have you got a EGR cooler ??

Close the EGR and get it out of the ECU If the oil level is rising check the Tandem pump ( Fuel Pump ) Had a T5 2.5 for 13 years 😬

never use tap water for ur antifreeze use demineralised water and degrees the engine so it will show if u have oil leaks somewhere 👍

Head gasket and maf sensor. Abs, do the abs sensors need coded in on these ?

Could be vacuum pipes around the wrong way on turbo actuator poss turbo actuator ??? Had similar issue with my Passat some years ago Check order of small black pipes

Are you going to be living in your van full time? I am a full time van lifer, I document this on my channel also! Stay safe on your travels, VanLifeInMotion

If you have an ABS sensor code that isn't resolved with a new sensor, I've 3 thoughts. First that the hub bearing is knackered, or second that you've used non-OEM sub standard part, third a broken wire to the sensor. Never assume a new part out of the box isn't faulty. Head gasket frustrating but not the end of the world. Have confidence in yourself and get stuck in.

Hi mate, just been where u are now with my t5, I was losing water through a core plug which was a nightmare job for my mate to do, had the exact same boost problem and the n75 v made no difference, I put a full stainless exhaust system on with no cat or boxes just straight through and that made a massive difference to the boost, in fact it pulls like a train from the word go now, I was ready to start putting a £50 turbo clean kit through turbo to check for dticky veins etc but I am more than happy how its pulling now with the exhaust mod, may be a broken cat prob at a guess

Variable vanes sticking in turbo? Common cause for under boost and over boost issues

After following you on another social platform for the past few years, I've gathered that you're probably as gooder person to ask than other. Whats the better, the 1.9tdi's or the newer T5.1 2.0tdi? I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place trying to figure out the better between the two!

Could be the egr valve ,had the same issue on a vauxhall vectra 1.9cdti 150 no power until two thousand revs then turbo kick in.