Thanks for the compliments! I've got some more really neat stuff in the works for this car!

Glad it helped you out! I'm working on a video testing my lift pump and overflow valve for proper flow right now.

Yes, Mercedes recommend lengthening spring to 26-27 mm.

Excellent information! So vaguely 8-10 psi at idle rising to near 19 psi at 3000rpm, I'm happy knowing mine is a squeak above that, if nothing else it will help fill the elements nice and quick, worst case I get a little less flow through the OFV because its a bigger restriction

Yes, and fuil pump is old. Valves in pump have a wear. That is the reason to stay in the mb spec and don't rise pressure higher.

I've got more videos coming eventually if I can ever get work caught up, it's been wild the past couple months!

@@trythistv you can do it! The internet needs you!

I wish I had the brains to have made this video back when I first found one that was so collapsed the car would barely run. This one was quite healthy, I'm looking into a readily available spring to replace the collapsed ones so that we don't have to stretch and hope for the best, I'll be sure to post an update once I figure something out on that front!

Thank you very much! It's a critical part of getting proper performance, and some have suggested that excessively low fuel pressure could cause accelerated wear on cylinder 1, I'm not certain on the reasons, or if that is true but it's not hard to avoid!

Thank you! I've got plenty more stuff in the works, work is killing me right now though, trying to squeeze in some video stuff when I can though!

Glad they're helping you out!

Good deal! Having good fuel pressure makes an alarming improvement in performance and even starting and such as you noticed. Probably keeps the injector pump healthy longer too

I'm fairly sure the inlet and outlet fittings also serve as the check valves for the lift pump, I'm not sure what option there would be to convert to AN without removing the fitting, getting the check valve and any portion that could be damaged by heat removed, and then welding or brazing a fitting to the barbed portion.

If you mean the 2 micron secondary, I've got a video on that mod: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gLl9gpiEs8ycl4k.html Which you'd need these products to replicate: Time-sert 14155 (10 pack): amzn.to/2U7HUOS Baldwin BF7591-D: amzn.to/38I9lE9 Or if you're talking about my giant primary filter/strainer mod that I haven't made a video on yet, but solved my issues with terrible quality diesel around my area: Filter housing: amzn.to/31lon0T Mesh filter: amzn.to/39VP14r Fittings: amzn.to/2XqYBHq 3/8 fuel line: amzn.to/3gtDdZy Clamps for fuel line: amzn.to/31mavUd

That is an excellent idea! I may have to break that into more than one video due to the complexity of the transmission adjustments, but I'm sure plenty of these cars are running around with poorly adjusted transmissions that would benefit! I will put it into my list of things I want to make videos of! Thanks so much for the reccomendation!

The first things that come to mind are fuel filters (Remember, there are 3: the tank strainer, little plastic "primary" right before the lift pump and the spin on "secondary") If your filters are good and you've got good fuel pressure, the next thing is boost, the banjo fittings on the intake and ALDA tend to clog up with soot if your car is equipped with EGR, they can be unscrewed and cleaned out, the "overboost solenoid" is another common failure point, I made a video showing some of those things to check here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oqd3eNSdvp3aiYk.html I'd run a gauge to where I could see it while driving, and if the fuel pressure isn't dropping out under load then it has to be the ALDA limiting fuel, which could be the banjo fittings, overboost solenoid or turbo isn't making boost pressure

That isn't awful by any means, but is still squished down enough the fuel pressure could be a bit lower than ideal for sure.

I'm fairly certain there should be a ball and spring, you did get the right one? The inlet from the filter should be a straight through banjo fitting, but the return that's between the IP and the block should have the spring. I've seen people mix them up when assembling a pump and it makes the car run terrible. Pressure should run around 20ish psi and not drop below 10 under full throttle full load conditions (like pulling up a steep hill with the throttle floored)

@@trythistv so should i install a adjustable fuel pressure regulator on the return line and set it to say 18 psi , or what do you think,,

Certainly worth a shot, keeping that pressure in the IP has got to help, some of the newer engines used an oriface instead of the overflow valve but the 616 and 617 should have been the same for the entire run, I think the 60X series was when they switched away but I may be waaaay off on that, adding a pressure regulator can't hurt, especially if you can check your pressure like I did in this video and verify that it is staying up around 20ish psi, low fuel pressure isn't good for performance, and can slowly hurt the IP and engine, usually it'll cause accelerated wear on cylinder 1, but would take quite some time to do so.

I'm planning on it! I'm gathering all the stuff for injection timing, and a bunch of transmission stuff too, along with a whole list of other things I wanna tackle incrementally