Luke or Resin?

And if it dries faster than water, it’s volatile enough to become an increasing % of the atmosphere in an enclosed room, so ventilation isn’t optional

Protect your lungs! Those and your eyes accumulate damage and are really bad at recovering.

I would simply close my eyes and hold my breath while working with the resin, but again I would be proving that I am just built different.

@@Based_Lord_Humongous Look at this Chad who does 3D printing stuff just by sensing the micro-vibrations through his hands. Inspirational.

Is the water distilled?

Tap water?

Best way to poison the water supply and get people very sick in the long term

Is this with water washable resin or regular resin?

I use an old Stanley knife

I use a Plastic Razor blade. You get a bunch of razors in the pack (50+), they are disposable and cheap.

Better tip - find a compatible removable/flexible magnetic build plate to easily remove models.

@@ValueRobot I've used magnetic plates before but gone back to regular. I actually had trouble with the print suction pulling magnetic plates OFF the magnet pad and getting a Z drift in the print. ALSO the magnet doesn't retain heat like the metal build plate so you have more adhesion problems in cold weather.

Outside of the British Commonwealth I believe methylated spirit tends to be called denatured alcohol.

The flexible plate has made my sonic so much more agreeable to use. Apart from time and aggro, I always doubted my plate was level after taking it out and wresting a print off it.

Great suggestion!

I agree!

Definitely

Hi, have you tested it? Does it work? In the EU you start fires with it so... I am a bit worried.

​@@mwb8666 I'm sure someone told me not to use metho on resin because it dissolves. If that's not true then awesome

There are quite a lot of tutorials on KZfaq based on the main programs, just find what you like the look of, most user friendly and spend an hour watching a few videos.

What brand of spirits are you using?

@@robertkelly3948 here in NZ I’m using the Diggers 4lt Methylated Spirits brand from Bunnings. The price was NZ$20, and I have been using the same bottle for the last 8 months solid, no cleaning of the wash station or anything. It’s so cloudy I can’t actually see the prints when they are being washed but they still come out perfectly clean. I do drop them in a bowel of hot water to rinse and make the supports easier to come off before curing.

Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. $135 right now. Best deal ever in my opinion.

@@toddzino58 cheers 👍

@@toddzino58 Yup. Ordered mine last week. And this video makes me happy I didn't buy the Wash/Cure station with it :p

@GeekGamingScenics.. is that really you?!

Yes, trying to keep it warm in winter is a right pain, isn't it? I've been trying to use a fermentation heating band and a Deliveroo insulated food bag (!) but it's all a bit wobbly. I like the idea of a grow tent but it's maintaining the temperature that's foxing me. How did you do it with yours, Rusty?

@@TheHunch8ack get a greenhouse heating bar, low energy, low temp, but when enclosed it keeps a nice ambient temp (and can get in the size you want, and control the temp, more you spend better you get as always)

@@rustyrocks69 Cheers, I'll give it a go!

@@GeekGamingScenics Thank you Luke, you're a star

@@GeekGamingScenics before I clicked to see, I had two suppliers in my head and this was one :-) Deff gonna give meths a go next time I am looking to replace my IPA

I have a small compact 40w bar heater (Its about 12-14" long) that sits right next to my printer. A big cardboard box lined with silver bubble wrap goes over the top, nice and warm. My hobby space is in the loft and it can get down to only a few degrees up there in the winter. I think the heater cost me less than 15 quid from screwfix or toolstation, cant remember which., and at 40W with a thermostat so its not gonna eat through your electricity.

Yeah, I've switched to meths, IPA tends to leave white marks on the print if it's been doused in IPA for too long. When it comes to meths don't get the dark tinted meths; this can discolour your resin. I use a very light pink meths. Of course the best if you can get it is industrial meths but difficult to get since they don't want you to make moonshine 😉

@@TheAndrian463 thanks. again, a link to the one you use, or even just its name, so I can look up its composition? thanks!

It varies by country, in the UK for example methylated spirits by law has to be at least 95% ethyl alcohol for industrial use, consumer grade is 90% with regulations on what the % of denaturants are in both cases (methanol), consumer grade is also died purple. In the US, denatured alcohol can be as little as 40% alcohol and 60% methanol, methanol is not nice. I don't know if there are any EU regulations regarding the quantities of denaturants, I'm UK based and use bioethanol. It's similar to metho/denatured alcohol being mostly plant based (distilled ethanol) unlike ISO (petrochemical) but has no toxic methanol. Most bioethanol for sale in the UK claims to be 95% alcohol but as with denatured alcohol and iso, it's hydrophilic, meaning they all attract water so the purity will drop over time as they suck moisture from the air.

@@pgabrieli Hi, seems my reply earlier on got blocked because I provided a link to Amazon for the product. Look up the brand Supadec Methylated Spirit 5L (590833) the picture (Industrial Plasters Brand) is not the one I received but Supadec. It is clear but with a very light pink tint according to my eyesight and does not have a pungent smell as the darker purple tinted meths - seems purer to me. What I received works for me but ymmv.

@@tuvaaq If you're using bioethanol to wash your prints, could you share what brand you're using? I keep getting fuels when looking up bioethanol and am not sure if they're the same product.

Most use a pen drive or SD card.

Let it sit for a week or so and all the resin will settle to the bottom, no need for UV, you can just decant the clean IPA off the top and leave the sludge in the bottom for the next batch of dirty IPA. I use this method to rotate 2x 5l batches of IP. Once I have a good build up of sludge I filter this thru several layers of cheesecloth and squeeze out as much IPA as I can they cure the residue off before it goes in the bin.

@@B4MBI72 My way is faster and simpler.

You know you can just sign up for the one month they have something you like right? If you're trying to get your settings dialed in, checking you can get a good print out, you're gonna want to make sure you actually have a properly made supported STL. Reputable patreons and stores are just a good way of ensuring that, before jumping into less tried and tested creations.

@@Relyx So none of those points were made in the video and as I already stated, the free files on site often have examples of 3d models created with that file, and you would not necessarily get a perfect print from one of those paid sites as you would have to consider the printer, the positioning on the bed, the settings, the resin and a number of other points made in the video. So why not get all of this honed in with a free file that you can see other people have already used successfully. Also he states in the video later on how he wishes he didn't go all in on the printer "accessories" by the same logic, free files would be just as useful. I just don't agree with recommending a paid subscription service, even if for just one month, which happens to be a sponser, for first time users when in the same video he sates to not even shell out for a UV nail light and to just let them cure outside. It just seems to be contradictory and biased to a sponsor. Again, just my opinion

What are the benefits?

Which resin are you using?

I really struggle with mine too

@@SilentFlatulence tried loads but had best results with elegoo ABS Like. The supports never seem strong enough and the models end up stuck to the fep. Literally given up with it.

OPR have a dedicated support section on their Discord where you can get help. But the general tips still stand : bed leveling, printer on a flat surface, room temperature (min 20 C, 25 is best), shaking the resin bottle (never let it stay too long in the vat). I use Elegoo Abs like too and their settings and the only times I got failures it was mostly due to one of those reasons (temp mostly) and sometimes bad/low supports . It takes time but when the settings are right, your printer will go brrrr

@@5lippy404 If you are getting supports printed but no models, I would say temperature or lift speeds. Try increasing the first and reducing the second, or as counter-intuitive as it sound increasing both. With lift speeds and separation from the FEP you can go for a slow gentle peel, or a fast rip, the middle ground is not ideal. My settings with ABS like is 180mm/m lift speeds, you can get away with 240 or 300 if its a very well supported model. Maybe even add a delay of 0.5-1s after each layer print before lifting if the first two dont help. I am far from an expert, but have a few years printing experience and these things have helped. Also if you have a full build plate increase your lift height, having a lot of surface area stuck to your FEP will stretch it more so you need to lift further to get it to sperate. Hope this makes sense and helps

@@GeekGamingScenics thanks bro appreciate it

i use it and its better then iso grab a bottle from wilko and try it i've used it from day 5 and never went back

Denatured alcohol / methylated spirits has toxins added in order to make it unsafe to consume and sometimes those can be absorbed through the skin depending on what chemicals are used. It's generally considered safe to use as an ingredient in things like hand sanitizer but if I were to use it to clean resin prints I'd want to make sure I always wore gloves when sticking my hand in a tub of it.

@@joegekko yeah I usually wear gloves regardless... From what I can see online methylated spirits should be fine to use with PPE as with any other chem...

Copy pasta from another reply regarding meths (and purity). It varies by country, in the UK for example methylated spirits by law has to be at least 95% ethyl alcohol for industrial use, consumer grade is 90% with regulations on what the % of denaturants are in both cases (methanol), consumer grade is also died purple. In the US, denatured alcohol can be as little as 40% alcohol and 60% methanol, methanol is not nice. I don't know if there are any EU regulations regarding the quantities of denaturants, I'm UK based and use bioethanol. It's similar to metho/denatured alcohol being mostly plant based (distilled ethanol) unlike ISO (petrochemical) but has no toxic methanol. Most bioethanol for sale in the UK claims to be 95% alcohol but as with denatured alcohol and iso, it's hydrophilic, meaning they all attract water so the purity will drop over time as they suck moisture from the air.

There's a UV Resin made from Soybeans, which is supposed to have reduced fumes and less toxicity. Not to mention Elegoo sells an activated charcoal filter unit.

@@GeekGamingScenics what a sensible answer 😁

I search gallon "denatured alcohol" & "isopropol alcohol" & find them in online hardware stores just fine for about $25 bucks each.

Methylated 👍