My first printer was a CR-10. After a bit of upgrading i made a big step towards a v-core 3 500. It teached me a lot about wiring and proper assembly in general. The ability to print giant flawless parts at 500mm/s and 50mm³/s flowrate is awesome, but it required a lot of time and studying. My next goal is probably a Annex K2.

Thanks for the overview of all these printers. I have been considering a Bambu X1C. Videos like yours have helped me make that decision.

As a newbie of two weeks, I'm finding the P1S to be amazing and just works. The fact that you can order one online, receive it next day or buy in stores and you just plug it in and go and the quality and speed are great is huge. It's like buying and using any other kind of office printer and it makes 3d printing much easier and accessible to people that are new or don't want to spend time modding to get consistently good prints. My friends and family are blown away with some of the stuff I've printed and some of them have been 3d printing for years.

Honest rundown from a user perspective who doesn’t want to fix manufactures flaws. I think this type of review or rundown is best for new users getting into hobby.

Thank you so much, I've been looking at upgrading from my first printer, maybe even looking at SLA. You've given me lots of ideas!

I have bought a Prusa MK3+ as my first printer what was a great experience. Expensive but good customer service, you learn a lot and now the printer went through 8900m of fillament with a print time of 1100days and it still runs without much maintenance. Now I also have a snapmaker Artisan which is also expensive but great but the Prusa will stay in use aswell.

I have a Saturn not a Jupiter, but one thing that I've always envied about the Jupiter? It uses a door. When you're a bit space constrained (i.e., you have too many hobbies for your hobby room), it can be a real bummer dealing with finding space for a resin printer given that most of them have a removable top that has to clear the gantry. This means that while the printer may only be 20" tall, it needs about the same amount of height above it just to remove the top. I have seen some users create doors for the Saturn and Saturn 2, which has been a really tempting idea.

As a complete newbie who's thinking about getting into 3D printing you have my curiosity and my attention.

The Anet A8 was my first. Learned a lot from scratch. After a little modding it was almost as good as a Prusa. Since I was busy with the firmware, it was not such a big problem for me to also install a touch sensor. Today the BambuLab is actually an unrestricted recommendation. Especially also finally Multicolour easy to print.

I started with an Anycubic i3 which was recommended to me by a friend who was happy with it. It took me weeks to get the sample owl printed nicely and never got it to work reliably even after replacing and upgrading almost every part on the printer. Next were two JGAurora A5s these printed ok, but they are very slow and printing bigger objects on the large 30x30cm bed would take days. Then I got the the Prusa MK3 as a kit (highly recommend building your own) and later upgraded it to MK3+ and MK3S+. The direct drive makes a huge difference. It still prints very reliably, but I am looking forward to the upgrade kit to make it a MK4. The MMU2 option I added was a disaster and ruined the printing experience... so I removed the MMU2 again. For small print jobs I used the Prusa Mini, which is ok for quick prototyping and when the MK3 was busy printing. The PFTE tubes in the hot end are a bit tricky, as they seem to change length over time resulting in frequent head clogs. Replacing the tube is fairly easy and done in a few minutes, but the length of the tube has to be perfect. I prefer direct drive over Bowden but that is just not a feasible option on a small printer like the Mini. I also have the Prusa SL1s resin printer and have mixed results with it - sometimes the prints are amazing and sometimes they are bent and distorted I often have to produce higher number of parts and therefore need a fast reliable printer capable of printing Nylon-Carbon Fiber. I purchased the Bambu Lab X1 Carbon combo. I hardly ever have a bad print with it even with PAHT-CF and the results are near perfect when using properly dried filaments. Meanwhile there are two X1C and one P1P running in my workshop and am very happy with them. Anycubic i3 Mega - F Tier JG Aurora A5 - D Tier Prusa MK3S - A Tier (may become S Tier with the MK4 upgrade) Prusa Mini - B Tier Prusa SL1S - C Tier Bambu Labs X1C combo - S Tier Bambu Labs P1P - S Tier

My first and one I still use, printing behind at this moment is a Ender 3 v2 from Creality. Jeyers firmware upgrade. Added second Z axis motor. Printed a new Briss Fang head for it and added LEDs to it. Added the silent fans and CR touch. I’ve put a few hundred into it and a lot of work and it’s pretty awesome. Have used for years. That being said it was a lot of work and most people won’t want to go through it and I couldn’t blame them but it does work great with the Jeyers firmware. All my help was from KZfaqrs getting it set up.

Most compelling Tier List I've seen from any youtuber in years. Nice!

Most of Anet's issues were from back in the day, but they are nothing special now. For the ender 7 it was really a stepping stone for them to make their new K1 printer that is more in line with the bamboo. Time will tell if it's any good. Prusa is totally solid, and support for the US market is now done in the US. I have spent some time with the Formlabs Form 3, while it is expensive I really like it. Resins auto fill mid print, material changing is really easy (with extra trays) and the resin smell is almost non existent. The software is super basic but works great (closed ecosystem) and we have not yet had an issue with it, other than not buying the wash and cure stations with the printer.

I have been looking really hard at picking up a Bamboo P1S and this video pretty much sealed the deal for me.

I have a Neptune 2s that I got new on sale for like $120, it’s been an awesome printer, I’ve never had any problems with it. I haven’t had to relevel the bed for several months and I rarely have prints fail. It’s a great entry level printer, it was my first fdm printer. I would definitely recommend the Neptune line of printers

This is so relevant to me. Im planning on gifting myself a 3d printer this coming holidays. thank you for this video.

First printer was a Monoprice Mini Select - which was honestly a really great tool to get into 3D printing but couldn't handle much. Second was a CR-10S Pro which seemed great at first until I found myself spending more time trying to keep the thing level and fine-tuning retraction settings than actually printing components. Finally was fed up (THIS WEEK) and ordered the Bambu Labs X1-Carbon Combo with their AMS system and I am beyond excited to try this thing out.

My office's first printer was the Formlabs Form 2. While the resin was pricey, it gave amazing prints and it didn't smell too much. It was always evolving, so the resins and tank were updated every 6 to 12 months. The only downside was the build volume, with was in line with most other resin printers on the market. This has been fixed with the Form 3L, which has a build volume of 335mm x 200mm x 300mm.

Only one printer on the list that i've used, the fortus 250mc. Also at the office back in 2014. This machine was the second 3d printer i ever used. About one year later, i got my first printer. I think it's very important to know the difference between industrial machines and consumer products.

If your looking for printers to try... im kinda a fan of my Adventurer 3c as a starter printer. I paid about £125 second hand/ refurbished from the company a year or two ago. Then all i needed to do was order a better nozzle and new bowden. They can be picked up second hand now for about £50. A very under-rated printer as small build size and parts are a little pricey, but easy to maintain and prints pretty much everything but flexible filaments.

Of all the printer gurus I follow, I value your opinion most. I'm currently printing on a stock Ender 3 v2 and there are a few things I wish it was capable of. I've had it for a while now and it does most things I need it to but I'd really appreciate some of the finer things in life - auto-leveling, multiple filaments, and printing speed to name a few. I appreciate your honest evaluation of the printers you've used and graded them based on more than the printer itself (creality 👀). Thanks brother, Cheers 🍻

Wow, this was quite a diverse collection of printers! I've been printing since 2009 and haven't even heard of 3/4 of those printers, most seem pretty obscure. I wondering if there was any community around those rarer printers? It's difficult when you are pioneering without any community support. I did want to mention that the Elegoo Neptune 2S version was able to be purchased on Amazon and there were quite a few people who did buy one,. It's still a pretty decent printer and has a lot of upgrades built into it, like the spring steel + magnetic + heated build platform, touch screen, and quality springs. I would recommend a Neptune 2S if you found a good deal on one.

My first 3D printer was the Anet A8. Looking back on it, I feel fortunate that I didn't burn my house down.

thank you for doing this, i follow your fan showdown for a while now, and was searching for a entry 3d printer, but everyone has a sponsor and i dont trust them .... i trust you because of your fan showdown, how you organize it all and do a community oriented show.. im so happy do decide my first 3d printer off your experiences ... thanks for pposting

the ender 7 issue sounds like the mapping for the settings saved in eeprom changed between versions and it tried to load random values as motor step/mm. you could just change the steps/mm and save to eeprom and it should work fine. or if it has the "load default settings" option, use that and then save to eeprom, it should fix things.

I have an OG Elegoo Mars, and it's been one of the most ridiculously bulletproof printers i've ever had, and the only one that just... worked out of the box. Maybe I got lucky, but I really do enjoy how reliable it has been. The only issue that I fight is how picky it is with what USB you use to transfer files.

You seem to have a knack for Qidi, so maybe try out their X-max 3. It's basically a 330mm Bambu that runs clipper and uses regular nozzles. It also has a heated chamber, built in filters, and can do some engineering grade stuff for around $900. No multi-material stuff, though. Bambu has the market cornered for that.

My experience with industrial printers is similar as your experience with the Fortus. I don't do 3D printing too often but we got an Arburg Freeformer 300-3X at my workplace and saying it is overpriced at >150k€ doesn't do it justice. Their marketing tells you all about the advantages: using plastic granulate instead of filament, multi-material printing, vacuum-sealed removable buildplates, heated chamber. But what they don't tell you is that their touchscreen is horrible, the GUI is unintuitive & buggy, you can barely customize anything more than the 3D object and temperature, they have no compatibility whatsoever with 3rd party software (slicers, etc.) and won't even allow you to use customized G-Code. The machine takes up a chunky 3-4m³ of space and the print quality is usually barely as good or worse than a 700€ Prusa i3 MK3. In summary the whole design screams that development was simly interrupted midway and is now sold for premium prices only because the company has some know-how in extruders. I guess when shopping for industrial 3D printers nothing beats a company with a lot of experience in the field.

I got the Anycubic Photon Mono SE after you talked about it a few yearas ago.... and I still ahve it and love it still.... just a SOLID printer... and my first RESIN printer... My first 3D printer was the Anycubic Mega X and it was and IS an awesome printer and I love it still... Upgraded the drivers, Marlin, BLTouch, and added OctoPi Raspberry PI to it and some relays and lighting and such and made is where when you turn it on, the Octo turns on and enabled the relay to power on the printer, and sits ready... Love it with the upgrade and Marlin was a HUGE upgrade and prints SO MUCH FASTER AND SMOOTHER!!! Then I got a new Resin printer for BIGGER prints... Loved my PHOTON MONO SE so much, that I got the PHOTON M3 MAX with a MASSIVE build area.... Resin printer is a massive game changer and the layers are SO THIN that you can bearly see any layers even around a corner and SMOOTH corners and changers and hight and I swear it feels as good as injected molded plastic... also a trick with resin, never print perpendicular to the build plate, i.e. Up and down like you do on an FDM... Angle it like at 22.5° or 45° and it makes the layers much stronger. The issue with resin is it is brittle... thats my only issue.... But I love it..

im still on my printrbot play (with 8-inch heated bed upgrade). it still runs great and as much as i want a larger build area, its never given me any reason to upgrade. it kind of falls into the "toy" category though its incredibly solid.

My heavily customized Anet A6 bit the dust a while back so I upgraded to an Ender 3 S1. It's a beast! But I don't use the included software, and it'll be due for a mainboard swap-out soon. So I get why an Ender might not be a great out-of-the-box experience for everyone; for instance, mine has auto-bed-leveling, but I strongly suspect that it's not being utilized due to my workflow (Cad-->Prusa Slicer-->Octoprint). Right away, it would not print until I set the default printing depth to -3.1mm, even after using the automatic bed-leveling feature, so yeah. Not Ender's fault, but not exactly what I had in mind of an upgrade. The build quality seems pretty great though so far, except I'm noticing a bit of excessive wear on the belts after ~4 months of use, so I'll have to keep an eye on that. Also I never got the hang of those magnetic flexible build plates and immediately switched back to glass (it's what I had been using for years). The steppers are WHISPER quiet but there's no real way to control the cooling fan, it's loud and always on 100%, which isn't ideal as I can't set it with Prusa Slicer. Just another reason I'll be swapping out the main board at some point to a custom solution and rolling my own flavor of Marlin. But that's the kind of 3D printer I am. YMMV.

Damn, was about to sleep, but this is actually something I wanna know. Thanks a lot mate, but I'll just watch later. Have a great one, greetings from Czechia!

After seeing your video about the Neptune 2, I was able to buy one and it has been a great printer ever since. I have been curious about getting the newer versions.

FYI - you can upgrade the nozzle in the Bambu P1S for about $50 (I did mine abou a month ago. I can;t remember the exact price, but it was not expensive at all). I also upgraded the touchscreen to match the X1. It cost me $10).

The engineering classroom at my school has a load of various Makerbot 3D printers, as well as 4 FLSUN Super Racers. I'm currently in the middle of printing an air raid siren with the Super Racer, of which the circular bed makes perfect sense for.

My first printer was an Anet A8. At the moment I am working with a Tevo Tarantula. Yes, nothing more, just that name. The printer isn't even mentioned anymore on Tevos website. And it's complicated to get the Marlin firmware compiled properly but recently I was able to upgrade it. It works somehow but of course could be better and more sturdy.

As a crazy kind of connection... I machined and maintained the mold used to make the front cover of the Fortus printer you had at work.

Fan showdown was my gateway drug into buying an ender 5. I haven't needed to use their customer support yet. But I've been happy with the print quality.

Still rocking a (heavily modified) FLSun Q5, partially because of your review as my first ever and still only printer. I was looking for a printer with a small footprint (excluding height) and delta's fit the bill with one of the cheapest, still, being the Q5. Put klipper on it using an old phone as klipper host, klipper screen and webcam. As well as converting it to a direct drive printer on a budget using the stock extruder with a titan aero heatsink and designed a backplate myself to fit a pancake stepper and align the holes on the effector plate. I did lose a tiny corner of the buildplate because it interferes with the rods, but for me a small price to pay. I am tempted to retrofit the v400 direct drive extruder to my Q5, but first I'm working on fitting a zonestart 3 in 1 out mixing hotend on it for some multicolor printing... So far the Q5 never disappointed me! That being said I really like to tinker, so for me it's a never ending project, I wouldn't recommend it to absolute beginners as there are better/cheaper alternatives out there.

The esteps need changed on the ender 7. It'll work just fine after that. It sounds like they're set to 320 for the x and y axis, and need to be set to 80. Another potential issue is the steppers are not standard and need a change within firmware for them. If I had more information, specifically about that ender 7, I'd write you a custom firmware for it :)

I had the Elegoo Neptune 2s, after getting a BL-touch for it, glass plate with a PEI-sheet glued on. It prints amazing minatures, as good as ive seen them being done on an fdm printer. Im using the Elegoo Neptune 3 plus the most now, large build volume, exceptional print quality out of the box, only gripe is no linear rails (they added those in the 4 series).

Elegoo Neptune 2 was a popular printer on Amazon 2 years ago. Happens to be the model I own and it has worked great for me.

I ended up getting a weedo tina2 and didn't really realize till after I got it that it wasn't that stellar of a deal at $140, but I also don't have any complaints about it either. It just happens to work good for my situation in a smaller room printing smaller pla parts, it's been consistent and prints have been good so eh if it's reliable then I can't really dock it besides being a little expensive for what it is.

bro i laughed out loud when i saw the picture of you flipping off the ender 7 lol!! so funny

I have been thinking about getting into 3D Printers for years & started my research this evening. Your tips in this video are very much appreciated. On a side note, I could not help but notice the mouse that you are using. Which I am 90% sure of is a Logitech G604 Gaming Mouse. I have the same mouse & I absolutely love it. However, the reviews were not that great & I feel it was amazingly underrated. Since you have one, I would be very interested in your opinion regarding Logitech G604 Gaming Mouse? Keep up the great reviews!

Glad that you liked Delta's. Would have loved to see more like ultimaker original, lulzbot etc, which, btw were pretty good. Also on the resin Formlabs. Demon paper😂❤👍

Between the hanging LEDs and the roaring fire, it looks like Christmas over at Maj. Hardware's place. My first printer I ever seriously worked with was a Robo R1. Glass build plate, USB control only (so you needed a computer hooked up to it while it printed, not the newfangled SD cards or USB sticks), it was... not bad for the price since it had a heated bed, but otherwise the lack of part cooling really hurt it. I've now worked with a Prusa MK3 that I've upgraded to MK3S+, a Prusa Mini is at home, a Raise3D Pro2 (which was OK, but way overpriced), and a couple of Markforged Onyx Ones. The best one out of them all is probably the MK3S+, it's just the best bang for the buck and you can always repair it or upgrade it.

I started with an anyyibic cobra, upgraded to a bambu P1S then got a QIDI X plus-3 becausr the P1S wasnt sufficient when printing larger prints in warp-prone filaments. I wasnt expecting to use it as mich as the P1S but its my go-to now, it's wuite a lot quieter, its much brighter which is useful when printing dark filaments which i normally do, the filament it stored in an airtight box with a dessicant pouch which makes life so much easier. I find the print quality to be at least equal to the P1S too and you can also print quite a few nore engineering grade materials which is more useful to me than the AMS. Bambu lab printers are kings for prototyping but the Qidi X 3 series give you much more bang for your buck than anything else if you're wanting to print parts for demanding applications.

sir, i came and found you because of the tarantula Tevo, thank you for so much amazing videos since then

You should assemble the v2 A8 you have and give it a shot. That one has the updated board with tgermal runaway checks enabled and better current handling. The dumpster fire A8 was the previous gen with the acrylic frame. I still get surprisingly good prints off my v1 A8 printers nearly ten years later. I've been using a delta I built and a Sovol Sv01 for the most part, but when I have a print that I need to be just done well and without a time constraint, I don't hesitate to push it to one of the A8s.

Long story-short, Elegoo and the Neptune 3 Pro are awesome. My first 3D printer is the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. I broke it the first week I had it, because I didn’t know how to clean it properly and stripped/broke a nozzle off in the hot end. Then while replacing the hot end I pinched the bed sensor and broke it. I emailed Elegoo to ask to buy a new sensor, told them what happened, and they sent me an entire new print head for free. Plus, everything was very easy to fix/understand. The only issues I’ve had were me, model, or filament related. It is also really well priced for a beginner, in my opinion. I think my next will be a Bambu Labs P1 or X1.

I'm still using a Printrbot Simple Metal with the heated bed option and a E3D V6 hot end, it is nearly 10 years old and has been an absolute workhorse and the print quality has been superb, however it is slow by today's standards and has a pretty small build plate. So I think I'll buy myself a new printer, I thought this would be an easy task but there are so many printers on the market I just do not know where to begin!

Dude, I gotta ask. What camera setup do you use to film this? I am impressed with how the video 'feels'

Just the the fan showdown, I would suggest we should have the ultimaker S5 in the FDM printing and the FORM 3 SLA printer as the industry standard reference point. I think with those 2 machines in the list, it would be much more representable.

The Bambus are great but I really want that flsun V400 for my next printer.

Started with an old Folgertech 2020 kit here. She's still a workhorse but the X1C gets most of the jobs these days.

My experience with Creality is I bought an ender 5 plus in the mindset that I was going to mod the crap out of it and not use anything but the printer structure. It's been amazing to have such a large build volume for the price.

I had the same problem with the Elegoo Mars, left it unused for ages, turned out the film was just shipped not taut enough. Never had any contact with customer services for any of my printers, I recently found my original Wanhao Duplicator i3 rusting away damaged in my shed, somehow it actually still prints without me doing anything to it. It did clog half way into the print, hardly surprising, probably just needs a new nozzle on it though, and a nice clean.

My first printer was the Weedo, I liked it a lot, it was easy to set up and easier to use, the only issue I had with it was the Ethernet connection, Never could get it to work, My second printer was the Neptune 2, I have printed a LOT of worthless stuff on it, I upgraded the build plat so that I have a removable print surface, only PETG likes to eat the print surface. my only complaint is the time it takes to print, then again that can be said about all 3D printers, I have not used a liquid resin printer, I need a few things first

probably the most qualified person to make this kind of list.

Yeah, about StrataSys… Where I work, we have a lot of them, both in terms of poly jet, and FDM applications… While we mostly have their newer larger FDM printers - their poly jets while amazeballs for resolution and tolerance are brutally expensive and difficult to maintain, unless you’re keeping them printing all the time - Their older stuff like that Fortus you had is pretty rough. We swapped out a Dimension elite, which was available around the same time as the Fortus for one of their newer F125 series printers And it does a lot better. Material prices and unit prices notwithstanding, they are definitely production quality printers that can be run constantly all day long. We do have them go down every once in a while, but I will say by and large. They take a ton of beating and don’t complain. I’ve also used different printers from Ultimaker and Markforge. The Markforge stuff is actually really interesting… But we had our own issues with those as well. Not having a environmentally controlled chamber or heated print bed was a bit of an issue… Although their leveling technique on their higher end models is pretty good. Lower material cost and running costs overall as well. The only sort of kludgy thing is they use pelican cases with silica gel packets to keep the filament dry. I ended up moving us to a drying cabinet, which actively maintains humidity. That worked a lot better, also for the Ultimaker’s. Definitely worth considering if you’re someone who keeps a lot of filament on deck but can’t work through it quickly.

Actually im using Ender 3 Pro and im quite satisfied. Id did require assembly and some calibration from time to time but most of the time it prints fine. At least for my needs. That said im thinking about an upgrade to something new and "rebuulding" the ender to something else (this is still to be decided)

im looking at qidi max 3 or the p1s or k1 max or 5m pro (unsure on BL with their CS and 1sdt party parts only and some sketch cloud stuff 9can print lan)

I bought an Ender 7 as my first printer (was on sale for less than the Ender 5 I was going to buy) and installed a BL touch without any crazy issues like that, so maybe they released a new firmware for the BL Touch.

I think the P1S is the best bang for buck because you don't need most things of the X1C that make it 1/3 more expensive and you can easily retrofit a hardened nozzle. Getting it with one AMS in a bundle is probably the best and most capale 3D printer on the market at this time. What a time to be printing!

So, I bought a Neptune 3 Pro because you liked the 2, and the 4 came out immediately after I did. So... Would those be A tier? Would the Neptune 4 max be S tier? Or should S tier be reserved for multi-extruder enabled, self-contained, multi-dimensional, all-in-one, industrial scale printers? ...If I put a hotter extruder on it so I could print Poly Carbonate (like I plan to), will the 3 be A tier?

If you ever get a chance, try the BCN3D Omega I60. Had to investigate a replacement for a our straty at work and it came out as our choice, by a lot.

I have a Lulzbot TAZ pro dual extruder. It was purchased in 2021 at a cost of $4.5k. It is my first and only 3D printer and I'm still learning but I have nothing to compare it to. The designing program I'm using is onshape. I'm a long-time user of AutoCAD but my opinion onshape does 3D a lot better for me.

Ender 7 is a relatively easy fix - had the same issues after installing bltouch on my cr-10. Marlin is finicky, but we could fix it remotely if you're interested.

i understand the hype behind a Bambu carbon but for me i just need a bigger plate. with the auto level tech we have now i love using larger beds because you have so many more options. for now im sticking with my vorons but i saw my friends Creality K1 Max the other day and it wasnt too bad. only 300x300x300 but still

creality ender 3 v2 neo...constant headache, yet still love it. Not sure why, but it did teach me how to compile firmware...it's a 300c beast now...could have just got a sv06 and been good to go, but I love a headache apparently.

My Creality Ender 3 Pro is a tank. I've moved multiple times, completely disassembling it and reassembling it each move. Each time I just rebuild the printer, let the bltouch I added realign it, change my nozzle, and off it goes. I've had no problems in the 3 years I've owned it.

Thank you, I was looking to buy my first one in the next few months, I wasn't interested in cheap. Previous experience in other specialty equipment told me not to

6:40 I had the exact same problem with my Ender 3 V2 after compiling the firmware for the BL Touch. I had to redo it like 3 times before it would work. Was very strange.

I got a neptune 4 pro recently - as someone who has never 3d printed before I can highly recommend it. Has always been painless and fast

The Ender7 seems to be completely fine except it has messed up E-steps. You can just hook it up to a computer via USB cable and send standard G-code commands to it to change these values.

LOL similar issue with enders bltouch. i had a problem before installing it with the z limit switch (would always stop at different heights especially when homing) so creality suggested to get the bltouch. after that i basically couldnt print anymore (would even bend the plastic part and it nearly broke) not even with reverting back to the old firmware. have now a bambu p1p, only tested their basic pla for now but so far im just blown away.

@MajorHardware If this doesn't sound too weird... I'm an engineer and local. I'd love to take a look at the Ender 7 and see if I could sort out the issue with it. Or if you just want to get rid of it, I wouldn't mind adding it to my stable and trying to get it working. I am running a couple Ender 3 Pros right now off octoprint, and I think I could probably get that Ender 7 working.

I'm so glad I get to rant about Creality customer service. So I bought the prebuilt Ender 3 V2 Neo the week it came out for my research lab (HORRIBLE MISTAKE). When I got it nothing worked. The extruder wouldn't push the nozzle through, the z axis gantry was jittery, and the wheels were so tight on the gantry that It would get stuck and wouldn't move. I tried to return it (they wouldn't let me) and eventually I just bought new everything. New nozzle, new hotend, new gantry wheels, an extra z axis gantry, new extruder. I FINALLY got it working, but nothing on the printer is original anymore (except BL touch). Needless to say, wont buy from them again, but I did learn a lot about how 3D printers work. LOL

My first printer was the Cr-10. Not the s version. I recently got an x1 carbon as my upgrade to that one. I have good feelings about my first printer but I would not recommend it since there are so many better options out there.

I've also had trouble with Creality service. I can't even order replacement parts from them. So, here i am searching for a new printer. I won e sent 6 follow-up emails to them regarding replacing my non functional filament sensor. (They sent a new sensor after the first mail, but the problem was with the board not the sensor). Their phone line is non functional, the chat function does not work, and they removed the forums because they were full of people asking questions with no support.

nice list. i finally broke down and bought the P1S + AMS combo since it comes out to the same price as the discounted P1P with AMS. i'm just sick of fighting with my ender 3 S1 so i'm just going to convert it to a laser printer now that the sonic pad supports it.

I really liked the prusa mk3, it was such a workhorse. But now I have a few MK4 printers and really like them. They are simple and reliable. If you can cough up the funds that’s what I’d recommend.

THE VIDEO I REALI NEEDED. THANK YOU SO MUCH, LUV YA XOXO

ive had a creality printer for years. dont get me wrong they come with teething pains but it might be worth it to review or use some on your channel to show entry level printers for your audience.

It's interesting how Bambu came on to the scene with the P1S and X1C and has quickly become the best FDM value. Regarding the SLA resin printers (Elegoo Jupiter).. would this be the better choice for automotive parts? BTW, what software did you use to make the tier graphics?

Been following the channel for the fan showdown and the random pc cooling experiments, and even though I have little interest in 3d printers, I've ended up learning quite a bit from your channel about them. I did work at the makerbot factory assembly line for a little while, and when they laid off everyone they raffled off 10 printers to employees and I ended up getting one. It's a rep 2 (I'm sure its beyond outdated at this point) and it's extruder is leaking. I know how to fix it since I probably put thousands of the extruders together (needs new "bar mount") but for now it collects dust, and rust. Worth fixing? Sell it busted? I'm afraid if I fix it I'll have a new hobby I don't have space for right now (it's on top of my fridge LOL)

You should try klipper with the ender 7. Maybe it is a software only issue and you can save it.

Ender 5 issue sounds like either build plate size specified wrong in the firmware or the x/y steps being half the value they should be. Ender series printers just run marlin, which is open source, and has configs available for most mainstream printers. You don't need to wait for creality to fix it, you can do it yourself. Sounds like physicaly the printer is fine. ....If you just want to get rid of it I can pay shipping to canada lol.

Now you need to get the prusa xl with the 5 extruders and prusa sl1s resin printer and test them out.

I have the Elegoo Neptune 2. Despite it's just an Ender clone and supposedly like an upgraded Ender, it still needed a lot of upgrades, especially trying to silence the fans on it, which are super loud. It prints ok, although mine required a lot of tweaking of the slicer settings, it never worked well with the default ones.

I'm still running my OG tevo. It only caught fire once😂 the pro looks nice

You mentioned Creality's customer service... yeah, it tracks. I got a review unit of the Falcon laser engraver module for the Ender 3/3 Pro/ 3 Neo. In the instructions it told me to go to a page and download and update the firmware... well that link was for the CR-30, a fully dedicated laser engraver. So, my module doesn't work with my Ender 3 because I upgraded the firmware. The actual original firmware is nowhere to be found. Have spent 5+ hours looking everywhere for it. Contacted support explaining exactly what was going on. They wanted me to send them a video of the thing not working and the serial number and blah blah. Like, I just want the stock firmware! Been 9 months or so, still sits in a box completely useless. The Ender 3 itself is great, upgraded with a CR Touch, magnetic build plate, and replaced the leveling springs with silicon mounts. Also installed a full metal extruder gearbox, upright supports, and cable chains for exposed wires. Best printer I have for quality printing.

Did me dirty on the elegoo neptune 2, bought in UK for £150 gbp over 2.5 years ago, serving me well to this day.

I just can't get past Bambu and their cloud hosting. No way I'm sending my designs to them. For that reason it's Prusa for me always.

Sure this will go un-noticed but I sure would like that Ender-7 I love fixing problems like that and have been pretty good at it over the years lol.

What are ur thoughts on the p1p, I'm deciding on if I should get the p1p or the p1s @Major Hardware

you should do a showcase of the month's best fans. id love that more than how much your head shines.

My biggest concern about the Bambu printers is the Carbon Fiber Rods. Not designed to be replaced and do wear over time. Wondering if we will see a lot of these abandoned in the future.

00:50 Tevoup Tarantula Pro 2:06 Prusa i3 MK3S+ 2:46 Flsun Q5 3:31 Biqu B1 3:58 Labist ET4 4:20 Anet ET4 4:50 Elegoo Neptune 2 5:31 Ender 7 7:48 Flsun Super Racer (SR) 8:28 Qidi Tech I-Fast 9:08 Weedo Tina2 9:35 Qidi X-CF Pro 10:09 Flsun V400 10:52 Fortus 250mc 13:12 Bambu Lab X1C 14:00 Bambu Lab P1S 14:24 Elegoo Mars 15:15 Elegoo Mars 3 15:35 Anycubic Photon Mono SE 15:55 Nova3D Bene4 Mono 16:13 Elegoo Saturn 16: 35 Elegoo Jupiter