That sort of damage is usually caused by a loose nut between the steering wheel and the seat! 👍🤣

That fly-by is why I’m here. The engine breaking will probably pay for itself in the end.

A hobbs switch installed in the fuel log will not only be much cheaper than the AFR gauge BUT you can wire it to cut ignition power as soon as fuel pressure drops off to whatever you set it at... And I can see those heads & pistons Didn't get detailed before installed. I'd strongly recommend polishing all those chamber's on the heads. Leaving those cnc grooves not only allows hot spotting but it acquires carbon build up like the faces of the pistons. A quick few minutes on each one will help for sure... And for someone that likes buzzing your motor I'd keep that oil maintenance regimen on a tighter service. We use small battery powered hour meters to monitor use time. By sending out oil to have UOA's done you can figure out how many hour's it takes to kill the oil & change off that...

Straight detonation damage. Good exhaust upgrades or opening up the intake flow either will lean a carb setup. AFR gauge is your best friend!

I know I've said it before (maybe even a few times before), but DAMN- that exhaust sounds AMAZING

Thats a classic ring end gap butting and pop the piston! Seen it a million times. There is no melting of that piston. The plug died from the chunk flying. Also if ur gonna run it that hard, its time to switch to a forged pistons . Good luck brother

The last time I did that was on a 351 Cleveland, and it was a tight ring gap. .026 is a bit tight on the top ring on a high compression, high performance engine, I'd go a little bigger like .028.

Get you one of those big white square buckets that are supposed to go under the water heater in your house. You can get them at home depot. They are awesome for setting under motors or leaky things you are working on. They are only about 2” deep

I've actually seen this a few times with KB pistons, they seem to have slightly more expansion than others. After breaking a few ring lands on them we started gapping rings a little excessive, and haven't had an issue with them since.

Watching a dude that has spent years working in his garage and yard move into a shop is so amazing to see! Congrats on the shop. It's so crazy watching, you have to be thrilled.

Craig, you have a KNACK for engines. Your F100 build is the inspiration for my own muscle truck (1960 f250) thanks for all the great vids man

Be thankful your inside on concrete I got my shop floor poured now no more laying in the dirt 👍👍👍👍😄😄😄😄

Watch The Old Man's Garage he's good on the carb tuning and is fixing to have a giveaway on his channel for a 750 gas carb and he will set it up for you and does the e85 as well. A properly set carb is worth its weight in gold... lol

Love the new shop. I'm jealous! As far as your truck goes, I don't believe this will be the last time you have to tear it down to find out what broke during a high rev drive by. Good luck. Appreciate your shows.

I would say thats a ring gap problem, too tight and the heat caused them to butt up and lifted the thinnest part of the piston. You said ring gap wasnt the problem but high heat will cause more thermal expansion and ring butting, it wasnt excessively lean or it would have melted the piston on that side where it broke

You blew a ring-land on a carbed engine! That's the kind of problem turbo guys have. Switch to a Holley EFI and gap those rings. Holdener suggest .028 . I know you built that motor as a high revver but maybe you need to realize that the motor builds peak HP lower down. Follow some of David Vizard's ideas on ways to gain HP.

i think the ring gap was a bit tight and in combination with running lean, it expanded enough to touch, and popped the chunk of piston off.

looks to me like in the future you might want to invest in a higher quality rod and piston combo designed for high reving applications I heard somewhere that its a good idea to over build he bottom end when building a performance engine it gives you more options as the build progresses and saves pulling the motor everytime.

It's called detonation, not from changing your exhaust. Too high of compression not enough octane. What color were your plugs? Thank your state for low octane fuel. Lower the compression if you want it to live or run higher octane fuel.

Ring end gap is more critical with hyper pistons as opposed to forged, with hypers you experience more ring expansion so more gap is required, if insufficient under heavy load and extended rpm the ring expands and the ends butt against one another causing the ring to try and roll up breaking iron rings or with modern moly rings it can lead to lifting a ring land, the phenomenon of hypers reflecting heat in chamber perpetuates this I believe, Hypereutectic pistons are supposed to be stronger than cast under normal conditions but under some circumstances where detonation and very high cylinder pressures IE nitrous or forced induction are present the structural integrity becomes compromised. Forged will dramatically reduce the risk and increase power potential by allowing you to run more timing normally aspirated and a Leaner fuel mix for more power, overly rich mix,slower timing,high octane fuel etc. Are all precautions to protect pistons basically, this is a huge technical subject that as a performance engine builder at coming up on 60 years old I appreciate seeing cammers like yours still in existence in a world of LS with Chinese turbo swaps being all the rage. Great content ! Sincerely a lifelong gearhead.

Concrete mixing tubs work great for drain pans, especially for coolant. Cheap and available at your local hardware store!

Put a big block 390 in it and you won't blow it up like you usually do make it for high-compression and I can drive up to 8000 RPM

Looks like a pinched ring .lifted the ring land .. basically not enough ring gap

Just started pulling the wife's 94 lightning engine. Figured after getting my 78 f100 "done" it was her turn. Great video. Nice way to unwind after some wrenching

When I worked at shop using Keith blacks in Chevy race engines we had the same damage happen until we found out the top ring land is positioned to where it takes a ton of cylinder heat. I think kb recommended we gap just the top ring about .120 so when it was wound up on the top end the ring would have enough gap to expand. With out that it would bind and break the piston lip like you experienced

Congrats on the first tear down in the new shop and congrats to many more!

2 tips, ziptie the plate to the bell housing on the trans. Hard to forget when its in the way, and remote mount that oil pressure sender. Braided line off the engine to the firewall or fender. Vibration can kill it early, make ya poop your pants over nothing.

Better watch that mph statement on yt. Other youtubers are getting arrested for speeding and reckless driving.

Excellent video Craig :) check on piston and connect rod pivot pins and clip on damage cylinder because sometimes clip break off on compression stroke to oil pan or jam up then can wiggle back and forth more be ! Not first time seeing that happen!

Super weird not seeing your little garage in the back ground but I know it’s a huge difference going from rolling around in the dirt to a flat smooth floor things actually move when you want to not as hard on the Body either lol congrats again on the new shop

I've had perfect afrs but major donation on data logs corresponding to breaking lands like that. Everyone assumes ring gap but detonation will cause that as well.

Glad it wasn’t to bad. I hope to see this truck at Power Tour or Ford fest. Or both. That is one badass ride, Brother. Cool shop. Always good to have a place to work.

I think ya engine builds will be much better in that shop due to having a more controlled environment….. but I still hope you finish the parts galaxie in your mom’s backyard. I think it’s be hella cool for you to show that a very clean project can be completed in a yard like that.

Looks like the damage caused by to small a ring gap clearance, it doesn't look like it overheated, usually the sharp edges start to melt and that is not visible

Congratulations on the shop, I know the feeling, and its awesome.

Finally working on my favorite vehicle on the channel. Keep up the great work Craig

This is random but damn bro I started watching you way back in late 2017 when I got my 70 mustang. I got so busy with life and I come back and you’re at 170k subs! 🔥🔥 im happy for you man, last I tuned in you were at around 5k subs or less. Congrats!

Hey man, so glad you figured out what happened to your motor. Ready to hear some more high flying NASCAR sounding F1 hundred. Keep up the great videos. I.

Wow I can actually see what you are doing! It's nice how that whole front end comes off!

Just think, the first fluids on the new shop floor are from the F100! You’re making memories now but it’s due to a heavy right foot. Great sounding exhaust though. I’ll send you a pic of my truck to complete the wall art, lol. If you’re coming east with your truck bring it to the Grand Nat’s and/or the Super Nat’s.

Congrats on the new space Craig. Having all that light and space made quick work of that tear down.

Love the new shop! Can’t wait to see and HEAR the F100 back on the road!

Hey Craig! Congrats on the new shop! Looking forward to seeing this go back together (again) out of curiosity, what cam are you running? I know your motors tend to live of the top of the rip em's. I'm getting my explorer 5.0 back together. Stock cam for now till it's running...

Go to home depot and buy a bagged concrete mixing tub, it's a plastic molded rectangle tub that is perfect size for a motors footprint of where the leaks will be, make a bracket on your stand to hold it secure

Did something similar to my sbc, the rod ended up bent and the cylinder barrel shaped. Had to sleeve the block. Great vids, enjoy your great content

I just watched the exhaust video and then the post 4 day after video and was wondering how long it would take for the full video to drop. Low and behold the algorithm brought me to you 30 minutes later after the videos been up for 10 minutes. Nice!

Ring gap and lots of heat..piston loses everytime..check the water jacket etc. If it wasn't ring gap, check piston to wall clearence, the bind may have been between wrist pin and top edge riding at tdc

Good luck, Craig! God bless and I hope that you have a great evening and enjoy your weekend.

I'm addicted to this channel. I have a 71 f100 long bed tho with a 302 not stroked with a t5 in it. Not a lot of ppl have them nice to see a KZfaq video that has someone work on one

Just discovered this channel and love your attitude and not swearing- good stuff

Thing is pretty rowdy for just being a 302, cool build, nice to find a fellow ford enthusiast. Im sure youre aware and its been mentioned, but KB pistons like extra clearance, they have a bit more expansion. Im curious what the compression is and are those 165s or 185s? Im just getting into watching your videos so maybe covered in others.

KZfaq must be paying decently for a college student to have a nice shop like that.

Steve Morris had a really good video couple days ago talking about measuring the top ring, after it’s been ran. He just compares it to the ring gap on the second ring, just to see how much heats been in the rings. Can’t remember what he calls it, he’s had a tech term for it.

So im no expert by any means but at 19:01-19:05 in the video there is a shiny ring where the valve has met the piston for sure just maybe the chunk that is missing was stuck under the valve head for a few cycles of the engine it would be interested in seeing the valves when you get them out. Not sure if you noticed it in the video. good times thanks for sharing!!!

I will agree that you got really lucky I was expecting the motor to be really bad. I am looking forward to your next video

Right foot death …lol we’ve all done it but usually on a junk yard engine . Hope you get it back together soon for spring and summer fun. 👍👍

Tnecraig909 Happy New Year's to you friend and your family I love the new shop and all your cars and truck God Bless 😃😃💪💪🇺🇸🇺🇸🥳🥳🥳👍👍👍👍

Damn that's cool to see a old school Mexican block. I've never actually seen another one but mine

I’ll hazard a guess that your neighbors aren’t missing that killer exhaust!

I recently blew the 5.3L on my Sonoma drag truck while tuning it. I also blew the transmission on my 82 Vette. I'm running a Dart SHP 427. It ran 549hp on the engine dyno. I had 2-1/2" Magnaflow with an H pipe and shorty block hugger headers. I felt it was way too restrictive. I'm now going with Hedman 1-5/8" primaries with 3" collectors, X pipe and single chamber stainless mufflers similar to Borla. The egine runs on a FAST miltiport efi with the XFI ECM. The engine always ran a bit rich. With this new setup I'll watch the wide band for a possible lean condition. I'm aswaping out the 700R4 for a 4L80 with a 3600 rpm stall lockup converter. I'll be running a 392 gear ratio.

When you put the hammer down, it sounded exactly like Cole Trickle in Days of Thunder “ I’m puttin the hammer down!”

Lucky. The place looks 👍 good. I can see the vision now. Nice of Holley to supply some cool stuff for the walls.

Man, glad I seen the follow up here, good lucky find for you

I’ve been busy with work and life, I was in California alot for work and I always thought about the truck. You’ve changed!!!!!

on my 2jz i had the same issue on my head all i did was scotch bright the head to smooth the pits out. i havnt had an issue on my number 1 cylinder. just try to smooth out any rough edges so they dont become a hot spot

I have a f-series with the same steering column problem. They make bushings for it. Mine was too late all the way into the aluminum. Lolol

Love the video. But since you got motor out and getting it redone have you thought about upgrading to holley efi??

♥ that you included the money shot in the sound clips 🙂

My '56 Buick's 322 nailhead with a gazillion miles on it sucked a valve at idle. I was able to save the block but it had to be bored .060 over. So now it has oversize pistons, new rods, new cam and lifters, new valves and push rods, new cam bearings new timing set, fuel pump, etc. And I was out about 7,000 bucks.

I have two D1ZM Mexican 302 blocks. One was original to my grandfathers 71 f100 and the other I purchased off craigslist. Both have unusually high deck heights. Normal deck height is 8.206 for the 71 and the mid 70s 302's have 8.229. My stock block measures at 8.248 - 8.258. The rebuilt one that had been decked measured at 8.240. Have you checked deck height and the quench? Pistons deep in the hole can cause more detonation. I am rebuilding the stock block and can use 289 rods that are .065 longer than the 302 rods to get close to zero deck.

Dude has come a long way I remember watching you a couple years ago

I would run forged pistons, the lean condition exceeded the strength of the cast piston. not sure on ring gap, seen people run gas ported pistons and the piston cracks off like yours, but they are forged pistons plus you drive the rings in tighter. vertical scoring? rings or whats your thought? i dont think the pistons will score like that on a fresh rebuild, what is the skirt length? wondering when the scoring happened? maybe the piece leaving caused enough vibration to throw your ballance off causing vibration through the crank. recheck your crank balance

Not sure how any times I've pulled the front clip like that. Most of the time I just leave the hood on it now. And that exhaust sounds perfect.

Can't wait to see that truck on the road again 👍🏻🇺🇸

Tight ring gaps and high heat will cause those thin areas in the valve pocket to pop off. Take that top ring off throw it in the bore and see what the gap is. Not exact but worth a look for sure.

My gawd that truck sounds absolutely filthy!! 🤤 glass half full is you know your truck inside and out.

I love this truck can't wait to see it fixed

It's amazing how much damage a lean condition will do. You got real lucky that's all that happened. I've seen the block and head melt between cylinders not to mention the pistons.

Dude, that is 0ne sick truck. Keep up the good work.

I just subbed on your channel and you have a Eagles of Death Metal/Boots Electric awesomeness to it!!!!

That truck is sick. 😍 Cheers from Sweden.

Enjoyable. Can’t wait for the rebuild ❤️🇬🇧🧐🥇

Great channel and the truck sounds sick

When I bought my 96 powerstroke the steering wheel was a lot worse than that one. Seller said it was a couple bearings but turned out needing the entire assembly that holds the bearings and also holds turn signal and ignition switches. The aluminum was oblong from the bearings missing for a long time

Same thing happen to my sbc and I got my piston hanging on the wall at the dealership I work at

That truck is the reason I came to your channel, and stayed for the Galaxy builds. Hope this build lasts for awhile.

I wish people would notice my build like people notice yours. I got a 1976 chevorlet custom deluxe c30 that got as just the cab and frame. Rebuilt the original sbc 350 and the th350 transmission as well as the whole front end. It's a pretty and routy truck I build from my own 2 hands like you at the age of 16. Now I'm over 1,000 miles away from it because I moved away for more opportunities only to find that a diploma and certificate for diesel and automotive and skill, only gets you a regular 9-5 cooking job at a bar. Hopfully soon I can go get it if I could ever save 100$ from this 9 to 5 so I can put this cab that I got that's super cool with metal work all done on the firewall and stuff and actually have a title for the truck so not anyone could just steal it. Love the content. Fellow young builder wanting the same dreams👏🤝

I have been rolling through your past videos, do you have a video where you list out all the parts you used on your build?

2:12 admitting to going over 100 in a residential neighborhood in a video 😂

Put some forged Pistons in it if those are hypereutectic. They don't take hardly detonation or excessive heat. They shatter pretty easily and the forged takes abuse alot better

I love that truck sounds great when it's running..

Just wanna say your truck is amazing! An I’m curious on the engine build? Any specs on the build?

I would think you'd have a 70 primary & a 76 secondary Jets? don't you have a O2 meter? Maybe try setting the RPM limiter 5800 to 6200?? unless you go solid lifters! then maybe set it for 6800 to 7200rpm on the limiter, If you can Dyno it, then do It, then you'll know max HP,TQ & RPM. Cam around 282 to 300 Duration, around 550 to 585 Lift? you could go get a 351M & build a Cheveland Engine? looks like enough room.

Love you man! You Alan Jackson looking beautiful man. Living on love, buy-in on time! 🙏❤️

A step or two colder heat range on the spark plugs would be some added insurance against pre-ignition when you get that thing back in.

Definitely the loose nut between the seat and steering wheel 👍

Those rinky dinky pans are a pain,get a cemet mixer tray,larger and catches all of your crap and cost about the same save the green pan for bolt catch

Mechanics is art and love

New engine tip…..install brass radiator drains in both sides of the block in place of the 3/8 pipe plugs then you can slip a hose over them and drain ALL the coolant. Also check that cast iron cam timing gear for cracks around the dowel hole, ive seen many crack when beat on steadily as you do but better to find it now than when it breaks

Hey Craig any suggestions on headers for my 1980 Thunderbird has a 302 with true duels with glass packs no cats