WE HAVE SOUND! ...but.... | 1961 Fender Bassman 6G6 Amp Repair - Pt. 7

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Yeatzee Guitar

Yeatzee Guitar

Күн бұрын

1961 Bassman 6G6 playlist: • Fender 6G6 Bassman 1961
00:00 - Input Jack rewiring
03:51 - Ground connection detour
05:54 - Inputs done!
06:10 - Bass pot
07:24 - Review top to bottom
08:06 - Incorrect pot replacement! Ugh
08:49 - MOMENT OF TRUTH! Power on
11:20 - A WARNING! DANGER
12:06 - All tubes in!
12:41 - Any output?
13:35 - RIP ears
15:25 - Bias time
17:05 - First notes
18:09 - First impressions
19:24 - What the? high pitched whine
20:53 - Circling back to the normal channel pot
23:11 - Eureka
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Пікірлер: 9
@jutukka
@jutukka 2 ай бұрын
Well, that amp is fortunately quite easy to signal trace. If the second double triode of bass channel is (like 6G6A is) a straight double triode cascade without any voltage dividing of audio signal between stages, it is very prone to oscillations if input and output wiring of that cascade is not kept clearly away from each other. Gain of that cascade is huge. So wiring is critical. If that stage has that 1Mohm neg feedback resistor, it is a bit tamed version. But still, if that amp was mine, I would add at least a grid stopper to the grid of the 4th triode of bass channel or a some kohms series resistor between triodes to form a voltage divider. Another very important thing of course is to make sure that none of tone caps and coupling caps are leaky. And make sure that those small measuring clips are really safe to use at high voltages.
@jamesbracken4618
@jamesbracken4618 2 ай бұрын
I bought a 1969 Bandmaster with no transformers and substituted Dukane 1U460 transformers fired it up and there was a motorboat oscillation so I took all the pots, jacks, and removed the brass plate. It looked like someone used it for a spittoon. Or coffee. black tarnish, Scrubbed it with scotch bright turned it back to brass . Scrubbed the chassis too, wiped it down with alcohol. Clean behind the brass plate.
@YeatzeeGuitar
@YeatzeeGuitar 2 ай бұрын
Oh wow! Did that fix it?
@goodun2974
@goodun2974 2 ай бұрын
​@@YeatzeeGuitar , I can't answer the question you posed to the other guy but I can tell you from experience that the back side of that brass plate gets pretty grungy between it and the inside lip of the chassis. Cleaning both sides of the metal in there usually pays off in lower hiss/hum and it improves the circuit stability. You have a lot of dissimilar medals in those junctions: the brass plate, steel chassis, the zinc or nickel plating of the chassis, the aluminum control plate, and whatever metals the threaded bushings and rear covers of the pots are made of. It doesn't really require anything spilled in there for lots of oxidation and tarnish to occur simply from a moist air environment and having current passing through it.
@calvillarYT
@calvillarYT 2 ай бұрын
I had turned it on and it was “working” but it was 100% gain 100% of the time and the normal channel volume knob did nothing just like you experienced. The bass channel didn’t work at all.
@YeatzeeGuitar
@YeatzeeGuitar 2 ай бұрын
Oof! Good to know Chris, well we're making progress at least. Parts were ordered, fingers crossed we can get it dialed this week.
@oldasrocks9121
@oldasrocks9121 2 ай бұрын
The Eurotube meter is powered off the tube filament voltage.
@YeatzeeGuitar
@YeatzeeGuitar 2 ай бұрын
Why would it not power on with full normal voltages if I brought the power on slowly? It's weird to me.
@goodun2974
@goodun2974 2 ай бұрын
​@@YeatzeeGuitar, if there's any type of microprocessor in the Bias Probe circuit, it might freak out and lock up from the slow ramp-up of voltages. Don't forget that the power-supply voltages will be very non-linear when you power an amplifier up using the variac (and even more so with series current limiting inline with the AC), because the cold heaters of the output tubes and rectifier (not to mention the preamp tubes) will attempt to draw a ton of excess current as you bring the variac up slowly, because the cold tubes have very low heater resistance, which increases in non-linear fashion once the AC line voltage is brought up to the point where the tubes start to heat up; at which point the heater resistance increases, and heater current decreases.
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