I don’t think you are ever boring. Teaching us all the true way of general maintenance. We ❤️ U. 🇨🇦

Restoring my dad's old pan, you're always my go to Mike. Thanks a bunch for your videos.

Just found your video’s and love them. Your old school technology is what people learn from. Thank you for sharing

I admire people working and taking the time to explain these young super-bikes, how fantastic! Thanks for sharing Mike! Hope to see you on the road some day!!

Thanks Mike! Got my 66 back on the road after watching this video. Keep em coming!

I enjoy and appreciate all of your posts. I know its a lot work making quality videos. Thanks, very informative

Thank you Mike. You are a bank of knowledge. I've been tinkering with shovels about thirty years, and still learning a lot , thanks to you. From your Georgia friend, " Dawg!!!"

I learn volumes from you. Thank you.

Glad to see a new video! Keep up the good work!

Thank you, good sir! Your guidance was invaluable.

great video, very informative. Thanks so much for doing this and taking the time to teach everyone. cant wait to watch more videos of yours

Thanks Mike, delivery was perfect From the Southern Hemisphere- We salute you 🇦🇺

Hello and thank you for putting up these informative videos. Just watched this one tonight, re-did my Panhead clutch again after changing the transmission sprocket a couple of weeks ago. I also have the Barnett aluminum clutch friction discs in mine, very good product, I've been using them in my Pan since 1998. I noticed that the friction discs were not making full contact against the steel plates by the wear pattern on the friction material. So since I was not in a hurry I set up my 1/2 inch thick glass panel for flat sanding with 220 grit sandpaper and rubbed each friction disc on that until I had a perfectly flat contact surface. It made a real difference in the feel of the clutch even using my foot(suicide) clutch and jockey shift. Now it is in contact or not in contact, none of the grabbing or incomplete release I had before which makes shifting much nicer. I also use a Zodiac Tamer Kit that holds the clutch basket from moving out, I run a belt drive also.

Great video as ALWAYS ! Hope the new year brings you health and happiness.....

Another informative video. Brothers forever.🇨🇦

THANK YOU...for sharing. Watched and very much enjoyed. Always a thumb up.

Thank you for sharing your expertise Mike. I was going to post about my grabbing clutch problem but did not want to duplicate a previous poster so I srcoled thru the clutch posts and discovered the post from Dan McCarthy _ same issues. My 2" open primary conversion to my '73 shovel would not disengage the mainshaft. It drove me nuts because I had already done two 1.5" belt conversions successfully. Your advice for drilling out the clutch plates with 25/64 bit did the TRICK! I am so freakin happy with my recent bobber build.

Thanks for the knowledge mike.....happy New year

Thank you Mike for another great workshop night love watching your videos if I have a problem I can always go to your videos to teach me how to god bless you

Wishing you and your family a Healthy Happy New Year. Thank you for the Great Videos.

Life gets in the way.. you're voice is so distinct. I walked by you a couple times in separate rooms at the gnrs every time I heard your voice I stopped and told the wife hey I watch that dude on KZfaq.

Mike , thanks so much for your expert instructions they have helped me to become a much better wrench and my old shovelhead thanks you too. Your awesome bruh ! I have an aunt who lives in Riverside cali

I love your videos man hope to see more and more of them Thank You

Thank you Mike, have a blessed week

Thanks mate, this was absolutely awesome. Watching from Western Australia 🍻

Hi Mike, I asked you about a clutch issue I was having and wanted to let you know that I purchased a new clutch and went back to the stock circulating system. I built this bike, a 1978 fxe 74 ci over the winter and your videos were there when I got in a bind and didn't quite understand something . Thank you for your response and your very well done videos!

Great vid....very similar to my 99 with a BDL open set up.....Thanks.

Aloha Mike... I have been building British bikes for a long time and just picked up a 49 Fl which is my first HD. Some things about the bike were not as designed so been putting it back to stock configuration. Of course I bought a manual but it almost isn't needed now that I found you. I really enjoy your videos!!! Keep on keeping on....

Great video as always Mike. As far as plate brands go a little over twenty years ago I put a set of Barnett plates into the clutch of my Shovelhead. I think once in that time I cleaned them like you are doing here after a carb tweak added a few HP and it started slipping. Haven't had to monkey with them since. I don't know if Barnett is still around but this video made me think of them. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. I live in a rural area in Southern Virginia and the last old timer around these parts that really knew these old bikes passed away a few years ago. Your videos are very helpful to those of us all alone in the wilds trying to keep our old iron healthy.

Baby Doll is absolutely beautiful thank you I was wondering what was in the bottle and couple minutes you answered what I had just thought I had to laugh...Thank You Pacific Mike M love & Respect to you....John E.

Very nice Mike. Thanks.

It's so good knowing there's still old school bike mechanics, koodos!

Had a 65 panhead back in the 70s that had a problem with the clutch plates becoming soaked with oil . Apparently the chain oil wasn't getting suckrd back into the engine . 🤔 Love your videos thankyou 👍

Hi Mike, couldn't have come at a better time as I have just bought a new set of Barnett clutch plates and springs for my 64 Panhead.

Thanks Mike! Happy 2020!

Great video, I just stumbled across your ch. today. Sure glad I did, I have an 86 evo with a 4 speed.

very thorough ,,i need this ,,cant get my 1936el adjusted right,,always engaged wont disengage.. very impressed.. i will start w a steel disc like u did see if that solves my no disengaging issue

Always picking up your tips and tricks

I ran the Barnett clutch Assy. and Phase 3 open primary combo on my stock 80” shovel. Your triggering a little trip down memory lane with your vids Pacific Mike :).

Hi Mike, I just had apart a '68 FLH as it had some starter issues. Had a mix match of parts; one being the wrong year clutch shell ('70 and +). I put in a '65 - '69 clutch shell and reused the clutch plates after inspecting them and cleaning them. I adjusted springs first to 1-1/32" as per manual without having the pushrod adjusting screw tight. Next I set the clutch arm to about 1/2" from the starter, then backed off the adjusting screw 1'8" and tightened the locknut. Then adjusted the clutch cable/hand lever to have approx. 1/4" play. I pulled the hand lever in several times and noted that the pressure plate was likely coming out 1/4" or maybe 5/16". I sat on the bike then and put it in gear and pushed it forward with the hand lever fully in (to disengage the clutch) and it was dragging considerably. The clutch shell looked in good shape and the studs on the clutch hub I sanded and were in good shape, so what could be wrong to not allow the clutch to fully disengage? Is it likely to be that I need to drill out the ten holes per plate on the friction discs ab extra 1/32"?? Any thoughts would be appreciated and I know you enjoy making clutches work well so thought I would ask. Thank you. Darren.

Thanks , good stuff. Much appreciated.

Good information, video's well done.

Thanks for putting this together. I have a 49 I'm going to have questions about. PEACE

Good video! Enjoyed it! I would love to see a twin cam video.

Hope you have a great 2020👍🖖

Another great video Mike. By watching your vids I managed to build my 74 fxe from boxes... She's a real eye catcher now. Thanks. If you have a email I can send you pics. Currently I have a strange whinning noise in third... So I'm on the lookout for related vids. Cheers again. J

Love the videos man!

Hey Mike, new subscriber here. Love your videos. Can't stop binge watching them! An old shovel owner and rebuilder here, years ago. Twin cam owner now. Learnin' stuff here like the extra steel disc hint. Question: I noticed in this video that you installed the clutch steels still shiny but scuffed the discs. What about scuffing the steels? All the old stories in the old days of guys slightly roughing up clutch steel discs on the side of the road on the concrete when the clutch started to slip...? Thanks again man. Ride safe, Frank

Another great video

Thanks Mike !

Mate, that is a really nice Pan you have there, I'd love to see your mates 48. I hope I can find a nice one soon myself. Great vid. 👍

Love the video

putting the extra steel in by the hub basket is the best idea. I ruined a brand new hub basket recently. but it was repairable by putting in the steel.

Best move I ever made on my 81 fxs was get rid of stock clutch & compensator. Replaced with BDL pro clutch kit wit sold sprocket & chain. It uses the solid Evo style sealed bearings. Much less vibration & clutch never slips

Whenever I'm not sure if something I just find one of your videos.

Hello Micke!!! I guess you like to service your clutch because the look like the 45 rpm acetate disk with all the good music of the good days!!! best regards as always!

nice to know bikes have dry clutches, i thought only wet existed but i work on cars etc not bikes, i like your channel a lot

Mike, thanks

Many Thanks. Cheers

Mike, I absolutely love the videos. Keep them coming. My 58 Panhead hemorrhages oil. They all do, but yours does not! Please enlighten me. PS the chain Oiler has been capped off

🏍🖖🏽😃😃 thank you Love those pans 🍺

Right on, bring on the twinkie love!! Perfect, I'm working on my 2002 NighTrain now so I'll be sure to look out for those videos as I'm installing an open belt drive. I love old school and try to absorb everything you say and really have grown to appreciate the beautiful aging mechanics of Harley Davidson at the age of 41 but the timing is perfect. So as per your suggestion on my Ultima 3.35" OBP Drag Style I got a new Main Sprocket Shaft Seal and Seal/Bearing Driver Kit along with a new spacer and will be installing it backwards, the original isn't leaking but it's facing factory install as it should. I did see your Shovel Head install and it seems to be easy enough as the tool will do most of the work but couple questions if you don't mind Mike? Should I use a RVT or certain sealant on the splines of either of the two shafts, main and clutch for the new dry primary? Next, my original inner wet primary bolts had a clear RVT silicone i believe, should I do the same when installing the new inner plate with the new supplied bolts or would you recommend a different type? Glad you and Fred had a good ride, "Baby Doll" must be a blast to drive and ya know, if you ever feel like taking us out on the road, maybe a GoPro attachable bike cam that would be fun, we could learn some roadside adjustments like a "clutch" lol, it happens and clutches are cool, I have no doubt I'll get this one perfect on the first try, guess i will start with manual recommended specs and wish for the best, this is my first dry clutch. I envy you as I live in Massachusetts and it's winter, though this Saturday will be 60* so with any luck, my transmission race puller is supposed to show up tomorrow and if all goes well, hopefully I'll have my new Open Primary done in time to get a scoot boogie in. Thanks for the knowledge Mike, much appreciated.

"That was working not well"- A classic line.

Great video! Somehow I missed the part showing all the lesser informed how to load the springs on the pressure plate with the adjusting screw and washer. Some people think their springs are going flying on removal. Maybe it was in a previous video. Cheers

Thank you

Hi Mike! Realy enjoying your channel, great to see another old grey haired biker type working on old bikes. Kind of an off topic question for you. I recently aquired a 59 Pan after many years of running a 77 Shovel. Loved the belt drive on the shovel and I'm thinking that the Pan will get a belt this winter. My question is how did you route the crankcase breather on Baby Doll?

great lessons Mike, I own shovelheads, a 72 fx, a 78 flh and a 82 flh. My question is keep the chain primary or go belt drive. I like to keep stuff stock for higher values, thanks

I always learn something from your channel. Thanks! So all the plates are marked with out to tell which side ?

If Bob Ross was introduced to motorcycles instead of paint as a kid! I could watch these videos all day!

Part 2: Since I use the Zodiac Tamer Kit in my Pan 4 speed clutch the clutch basket cannot be removed without first removing the clutch hub nut. Makes it difficult to remove without using an air impact tool and almost impossible to use the correct torque when installing the hub nut. So I made up this tool from an old clutch friction disc and clutch steel using three 1/4 inch bolts to hold them together, make sure you center them. I drilled the holes in the steel and inserted them together into the clutch, centered them and started drilling the holes in the friction disc, finish drilling the holes on the bench. To use it just remove all clutch plates, insert tool into clutch all the way in to the base of the fingers, now the hub and basket are locked together. I run a belt so I made a steel bar to lock the pulleys and once that is in place everything is locked. I was going to attach pictures but can't figure out how, sorry.

Hey Mike, so are you adding a extra steel plate to the stack? Does the metal on metal still engage/grab the same? Just received a new BDL system and don't want to hurt anything. I've never seen this done before

Mike, First of all I'd like to thank you for all the videos! I'm a true fan. I also have a 52 Pan I've been trying to bring back to original. It was in a 58 swing arm frame when i bought it. I've come a long way since. What belt primary are you running? I don't want the chain to deal with like I had on my 57 years ago. I'd also like more choices on pully sizes to get more on the top end highway gears. Thanks Mike! -Erik

I was baffled as how you were able to have the release plate assembled with the springs already under pressure, until you finally mentioned the shovel head valve retainer . Genius! Thanks for mentioning. I have no idea how that can be reassembled without that? How did Harley suggest this? Thanks for that video. My56PAN

Hi Mike! Great videos on clutch disassembly and cleaning! The clutch on my '77 Shovelhead wasn't engaging properly, so I removed the primary cover to have a look. Turns out when I work the clutch lever, the left side of the clutch basket moves out, but the right side hardly moves at all. The clutch springs seem to be relatively even, but I'll take measurements and adjust them evening just to be sure. Can you tell me what's causing the uneven movement of the clutch basket? Thanks!

Great Video, Mike... I have a 1980 Shovelhead FLT (mostly stock)... primary converted to dry belt drive, and my clutch has been 'grabby'... where is catches unexpectedly while slowly release the handle. I completed a full service (using your video)... QUESTION: Do you ever 'lightly grease' the fingers of the clutch basket so the plates 'slide easier'? Thanks.

Hi Mike, Thank you for all the videos and experience, as you teach from your home garage! also just love it when something doesn't go perfect for you, it makes you more real. OK enough brown nosing! I restored a 1981 Sturgis about 10 yrs ago, and it only has about (11,000 Mi.) clutch and transmission shifted like butter but had a little clutch chatter till warm. Thinking a warped plate I put in a new clutch plates and steel plates this time with anti rattle balls; chatter gone but cant find neutral when running now?? cant seem to dial in the adjustment, followed service manual but without success!!! Haven't had this happen on any other shovels I own; could you do a video on how to adjust properly, my best Jim

Great video Mike! A little bit long, but what a pleasure to watch and listen 😎 A little thing I do is I drill the clutch plate holes just a bit bigger, so they slide easier to come free. It make more noise, but what a fun to hear. Cheers from France

Mike, love your videos, I have this old 58 FL with a shovel upper end (chopper) that has been sitting in storage forever, now my son wants to put it together and your videos are helping, anyway we just installed the hand clutch cable and it's super hard to pull, I guess some cable lube and go through the clutch, also it has a old phase 3 primary belt, could the pressure plate springs possibly stiffened up over the years, I don't remember ever being that hard, any thoughts?

Like your video, what do you think is better the 3 or the 5 finger clutch hub

Mike great videos!!!! I'm not sure if I'm posting this in the right place but could you make a video on assembly and then adjusting the friction discs in a rocker clutch? Kind of like how you did the mouse trap video only this time with the rocker clutch?

Was wondering if you could please do a video on how to setup the rocker pedal assembly and linkage adjustments so that everything works as designed.

your awesome!!

Thanks for all the info on the older Harley's. Really helps and your content is great. My friend asked me to help on a 1948 flat head. We got the motor running nice now using you carb videos. My issue now is I can't get it into gear once it's running. The gears just grind. Seems to shift ok when it's off. Is there an adjustment I am missing for the clutch?

Спасибо большое. Если даже были вопросы, то они исчезли после просмотра вашего видео 🤝.

Hi Mike! As you recommended, I removed the cam cover on my '77 Shovelhead in hopes of draining the oil and gas from the crankcase. Thanks to one of your videos, I made my own cover puller based on your design. Since there's at least four quarts of oil, plus an unknown quantity of fuel in the crankcase, I was expecting a lot of fluid to flow out. That didn't happen. I only got about half a quart of fluid out. Other than tilting the bike, is there something else I need to do to get the fluids out?

Hey Mike, I got a rotary top transmission. Looks similar to your ratchet top. My clutch arm is so hard to pull, I didn't notice with my jockey set up, but now that I have reverted back to it's original set up I can't pull it with my hand lever (so it's not the cable). I've tried to move the arm itself by hand, and it won't budge. Would you have an advice on where/what to look for? Great vids btw, helps a lot.

Great videos...i enjoy and learn..but if you were in my neighborhood you would be known as the MR Rogers of Harley's..🤪😉

I've been riding and wrenching on my (chopped) '62FL for forty years and learned something when you started with the steel. Further more, I just replaced a BDL basket because of the friction disc gouging you mention. Question for you, Mike: instead of replacing the basket could I have just dropped a (corner shaved) steel in? Also, would you do me a favor and if you haven't put the outer on yet, or have an old Pan basket lying around measure the depth? Shovels are deeper?

I thought you just scuffed them up on a concrete floor a few times and you were good to go? Thank you for the videos.

U can also use a top shock washer, to retain those spring s

Working on my shovelhead clutch . Can of worms. Dry like yours ; belt drive . I have to rev it to get in nuetral . My springs are 5 Barnett and 5 factory springs . So I went back to all factory springs . Now I have to rev to get in neutral and it goes past and to second gear . Frustrated- got it set up as loose as possible and most clutch pull . I seen all of Indian larrys bike have updated clutch hubs . $$$ Well there are several things on market to help clutch basket from wandering. Thanks mike . Making things more better - 😁✊🏻👍👌🙏

Saw you do 1 1/2 turns at 21:20. That is why you had to do another half turn on the other two to match them.

Mike! Working on a 55 panhead and got everything running good! When the bike gets nice and warm if i am at a stop in first gear with the clutch pulled in the bike will intermittently try to jerk the bike forward.. its an open belt primary and looking at the pressure plate it looks as if it grabs and then frees up and then grabs and frees up.. and it spins with what appears to be a wobble.. any advice on how to attack this problem? Love the videos by the way! Keep em coming

Hi mike I have a 1981 FLT iv got my self a import to GB iv given it a going over but now I fined the clutch drags I was going to try to set it up the sting retainer plate is less than one inch and it’s knot releasing square but I fined 3 of the 5 studs turn with the nuts I guess the lot needs to come out don’t know what I am going to fine can’t fined it in the books

Mike, sorry to comment on an old video! I've been having a few issues with my clutch and I noticed you have steel/fibre/steel/fibre/steel/fibre. I have an extra fibre at the back. I never really thought much of it until now! may be why my clutch has been acting wild!

Specking of clutches what's your thoughts on the ram jet retainer? The old lowrider has a 5 bolt studs with the tin retainer and springs, hard to shift into first gear and drages at stops.

Thanks, also I hv an aftermarket wet/dry clutch on my 59’, 4 Clutch pads & 4 steel plates, and the distance from the outer Pressure Plate to Spring Collar is not 31/32 it’s very hard to pull the clutch lever but it was 1-1/8 before disassembly but I got it to 1-1/16. Would this be ok for the setup I got, it’s been years and a cpl head injuries since I put it in new in the 90’s ? Thanks

Hi Mike, Many Thanks for sharing all your knowledge. You have been a valuable resource to me over and over again. I have a slight issue with my clutch on my 1981 FXWG Shovelhead. Everything is stock but it has a very agressive crash style gear change as I change gear it sounds pretty clunky. I've had advice and people say "Buddy, that's just how they are" but I have a second symptom with is I cannot find neutral while the bike is running. She just jumps from 1st to 2nd and back to first until I turn the bike off. At which point neutral is easy to find. I've used up all the adjustment on the cable and am left with no more play. My question is, should I be compressing the springs on the pressure plate or decompressing the springs to get a bit more clutch action. Hope your day is awesome. Bill from Ireland 😁

Mike my name is John gordon I live in rock falls ill. I own a 1962 flh harley panhead. I have replaced over approximately 2500 dollars in parts and performed extensive amount of work on her. I had to replace the pivot plate on the mousetrap.also replaced the dry clutch package with new parts. I have the clutch lever at one eighth play. I watched your video about the clutch adj. My question is with the mousetrap system is the pressure on the clutch pushrod to the throw out bearing the same as shown on your video

Any advantage to using some kind of lock washers on that hardware Mike? I see a few with safety wire sometimes.