*** UPDATE *** - I just released a STEP BY STEP guide and I did it on our brand new F350. Watch it HERE => kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qa1jnrh4nazMYIU.html Here is the part I ordered: ** IMPORTANT ** This was for my specific truck (2020 F350 SRW), make sure you find the appropriate part for your vehicle. amzn.to/4aRsnIM For my install, I set the bushing to 2.5 degree positive caster, 0 camber. (which is the most that you can get caster wise out of these bushings). If you would like a more step by step, let me know and I might be able to throw something together. Thanks!

I did alignments for a living , and so you know that Napa auto parts sells adjustable camber caster bushings, get the old out ,install new then getting it aligned

Finally a truthful and accurate video on this. Everything else is a bandaid. Steering components become worn because of the alignment

This is exactly what causes the death wobble on Fords, especially if they've been lifted/leveled since these affect the caster angle. Thank you for explaining this!

I'm 70. I've been fixing my vehicles since I was 14. Before youtube we had something called 'TRIAL AND ERROR'. With no one to show you how to fix something it was a hell of a lot of error. I learned a lot of patience. But I'd rather of had youtube.

I have a 97 Cummins and those are known for it too. I have no stabilizer or sway bar on 37s and my truck never gets it and never has. My truck calls for 3.5 degrees of caster and I have mine set to 5.1. I tell everyone that has death wobble that it’s their leveling kit that took all the caster out. I tell them their wheels are like shopping cart casters. I also tell everyone they want a bare min of 4.5 positive caster.

Definitely applies to the 99-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Zero issues until I got a "fresh alignment". The Jeep had a very very slight tiny pull to the right, amplified by a larger off road set of tires.

I’ve heard about this many times, but never in detail like you did, thanks,

Great problem solving!

In the 70s my dad bought a used 1972 Ford F100 Explorer long bed that turned out to have had extreme death wobble. It could have new tires, brakes, steering linkages, alignment, etc. etc., and it would happen again. I had no idea that this was happening to modern Fords and was immediately reminded of my dad’s truck. I’m amazed to hear about this happening 52 years later with modern steering geometry. Good video, btw. Edit - it even had the steering gear box replaced. If memory serves me correctly, it tended to wobble if you were going down a grade on a bumpy road.

I had a 72 econoline that had a death wobble due to a worn out bushing on the pitman arm. It happened around 75,000 miles. Bushing was a huge, unlubricated, rubbery design that looked like a roller on a boat trailer. I had to drive the vehicle to a stop to stop the wobble. I had a large frame shop replace the busing and align the front end which had those “I” beams. To adjust the camber the “I” beams had to be bent. They would put a chain at each end of the beam with enough slack to put a small bottle Jack between the chain and the beam. Pump the Jack to a number that had spring back figured in. That was a time I did most of the work myself but this was outside my pay grade. People riding in the truck when it would start to wobble were astounded by my composure bring vehicle to a stop and starting up and go again. I drove it with a wobble for about 6 months before I found out the cause at work. I was an engineer at ford in body engineering. Made a few phone calls to guys I knew from night school or bowling or golf that “knew a guy”. That’s was the pre-internet, internet. It always worked. Sometimes they would drag some parts out from under their desk if required.

This is appropriate for most solid axels especially for the Jeeps! We two Jeeps and caster is everything to avoid bump steer and death wobble as long as the other components are in good condition. Great video!!!

I love listening to you, you're so wise

Very well done video and excellent advice.

as an old guy, learned this years ago, being around the drag races and rail dragsters was my introduction to caster. boy is it important in those chassis!

I have a 99 E350 class c it is a chore to drive there was a video of an RV owner with my same problem,said his wife would not drive it, He had 2.5 degrees positive caster bushings put in and said it made all the difference in the world and his wife will now drive it with no problem. I can do this I just needed to see the technical part of the video how it was actually installed. Thank you so much for posting this.

Your rant is correct... Your analogy is perfect. I also own a 2001 Excursion as my Tow Tractor... Lol it is an alert activity, to say the least

Thank you very much for the info.

It was nice to meet you in Q. Great video on a great FIX😮

Thanks for the info! 👍🏻

And as far as tire pressure the door plate is pressure for max load for factory tires if running aftermarket tires and wheels the chalk method works great to determine pressure and if running empty pressure doesn’t need to be maxed out

Very interesting video. I experienced death wobble because I had a ball on one of my front steering tires. If I get it back for some reason this will be the first thing I do. Thanks 👍🏼

Bingo! My alignment tech had this conversation with me years ago after I installed new upper control arms to my Tacoma. The arms he recommended added more caster so the truck would track better. Imagine a hand truck you are pushing and the more upright it is, the more unstable the tracking is. Tilt the hand truck back more, all of a sudden it tracks much better. My Tacoma tracks great and it feels like I am on rails driving down the highway. It makes me wonder though if the Ford SD camber is set the way it is to accommodate more axle weight on the front end.

💯 I've been saying this for years. Death wobble is caused by crappy alignment on all solid front axle vehicles. When I did a leveling kit on my Super Duty, the kit came with alignment casters. My alignment guy said those were wrong for my truck so he threw on a set that he believed were correct. I've never had a death wobble experience ever. A good alignment shop will look at your vehicle and tune it correctly. Not a set it forget it kit.

Interesting video. I have a 2002 F350 1ton long-bed 4x4 / 7.3 diesel with 4 leaf spring configuration. I had a 10” frame lift installed in 2008 which it still has and running 40” Toyo MT’s. I don’t think I experience what you describe is the death wobble but sometimes you don’t realize it when things gradually get worse in any case I was wondering what your thoughts were if I were to change this bushing out on my truck, do you think it would benefit me in any way even though I may not have a death wobble?

Great video. What mileage did you have to do this?

No wobble in my 1980 F-150 shortbed. Also no airbags, no door alarms, no cameras, no ECM, 😊

Great video and diagnoses. You are spot on on the caster theory and proved success. Positive caster ideally should be slightly more on the right front to compensate for road crown. You have to wonder what Ford was thinking here kinda like the Bosch CP4 high pressure fuel pump that has been proven a bad design yet Ford continues using it on the 6.7 Powerstroke.

The death wobble Found on road nice job

Can you tell me more about what you did to you Excursion I have a 2003 that is not fun to drive. Thanks Mike

I had a 1995 Lincoln Town car that did the same thing. Dealership wanted about $500 to do this. I sold the car. I wish I had known about this back then. My dad taught me about bicycles when i was a preteen. I didn't put it all together like you did. Thank you for figuring this out and for posting!

As a friendly suggestion from a retired former ft. end/alignment tech, the toe-in should be checked/reset after any change is made to the spindle position or KPAI to insure minimum tire wear and maintain steering wheel center position. Even a slight change may have occurred to the camber and quickly feather-edge a set of expensive tires. Cheap insurance... Thanks, as your video here will help a lot of folks.

This is 100% true….i changed everything on the front end and nothing changed..wobble continued…I changed the caster bushing 1/4 degree and boom wobble gone…done …this subject has a million videos and the are all over the damn place. New bushings problem solved. Hell my stabalizer isn’t even connected and dead solid steering. Stock bushings have 0 degree New 1/4 positive. I took mine to the alignment place with bushings installed and a tad of grease to make them turn easy and they set them correctly…tightened the castle nut. PERFECTION.

I agree with your positive caster advice, as I've been adding it to modified lifted suspension trucks for years, by air gouging and rewelding the axle tubes to accommodate for pinion angle changes, and caster angles beyond the capabilities of replacement bushings. The only thing I have an issue with is the "Recommended Tire Pressure" that Ford tells it's customers. Ford doesn't make tires, and tires have gotten thinner and lighter over the years, and the Tire Manufacturers recommended air pressure is what has replaced the structure of the tire to enable the load rating. "IF" you have a tire related issue or defect, that manufacturer will NOT stand behind that tire, as it was used under inflated. Then there's the heat related issues, more rolling resistance, and premature wear that goes along with an under inflated tire. On steer tires I would run whatever pressure is stated on the tire especially. All your powertrain weight is mostly on the front of an empty pickup truck anyway. YMMV...

caster turns into camber when wheels are turned to the left or right. it CAN effect tire wear to a small percentage. it depends on how much driving is done on tight curves.

I never ever thought about the old 1974-1986 Chevy with worn out rag joints and components falling out! Damn near had to turn the wheel 2/3 the way around to get it to turn a curve 😂😂 never any death wobble

Interesting information. We have not experienced any issues like this with our Ford. - Michelle

OMG is this the answer to my motorhome steering? I can't take my eyes off the road for a second, cuz if I do I'll be off the road. I have to be super focused 100 percent of the time. I've taken it to multiple alignment shops, and they say it's right, but there's really something wrong. I've been thinking about the stabilizers, and trying to stabilize something that's unstable, but this really makes a lot more sense. The way you explain this is spot on. I understand more about caster now than I have in my entire life, and I'm old. Can I get your thoughts on this? Should I be telling these alignment shops how to do their job? If this is right on, I have no problem doing just that, because so far they don't seem to have a clue.

Hi, just got my 2014 E350 12 passenger van back from the Ford dealership. I brought it in because of a very noticeable shaking of the entire front end, which I can feel through the steering wheel. The dealership said the front two tires were out of round. So got 4 brand new tires. The shaking and juddering still exists. Especially on the interstate at 75 mph. An hour ago on the interstate, I thought it just be bushings then. We have brand new KYB shocks too from an independent auto aligner, which fixed half the problem. The new tires from Ford did not fix the other half. I just watched your entire video, and my question to you would be: in your research over the years, does the E350 Ford passenger van have the same caster-bushing problem as your old Excursion and newer truck? Thanks for your video. We're not at death wobble level yet, but I have to hold on tight. Good video. I will subscribe.

With any death wobble always check every component in steering to make sure they are all tight. You're also right that a low amount of positive caster can cause wondering and even shimming issues as the tires want to follow any road imperfections. For on road use a decent amount of positive caster is wanted to keep you going straight but in off road low amount of positive caster is wanted as you don't want the vehicle to fight you while you're off wheeling in the back 40s. At the end of the day a full inspection of the vehicle suspension and alignment check should be done in my opinion few times per year.

Death wobble is not a known to Ford only problem (weekend experts on the internet) nor caster only problem. Any vehicle with a solid axle and coil spring suspension can experience it due to many factors such as worn parts, alignment, lift kits, tire issues, etc... A knowledgeable tech (good luck finding one these days) will suggest caster bushings after checking the alignment if the owner is experiencing this problem and no other cause can be determined. You are correct that stabilizers only mask the problem. Glad you were able to adjust it yourself and remedy the problem. But caster adjustments alone are not 100% guaranteed to solve the problem.

My DW story... I have a 93 Grand Cherokee. At around 30,000, it started the death wobble. I have a car lift and have done my own mechanic work all my life. So I figured I have this. Up it went and I did everything I have done to hundreds of vehicles for years to check all suspension and front drivetrain. Everything seemed tight and unworn. My wife's dad bought the Jeep new and passed shortly after. Her mother drove the jeep to the store and back till she passed and we inherited it. I know the thing was not put in four wheel drive very many times in it's life. So basically what I am saying is the Jeep was just like new when we got it with less than 20,000 miles. Back to the story of dw. I couldn't find anything wrong so I took it to an alignment shop that I have used for years and have always had good service from them. They couldn't find anything wrong so we drove it up the road. At 45 mph it went into the dw. The guy said he had never seen anything like this. He checked everything and did an alignment on it and it still, dw... After several attempts, he said he determined the track bar was the problem. $180. later he said it was fixed. I picked it up and on the way home it was still wobbling. Went right back and got my money back and found another shop. Same thing, not a clue what caused it but said I needed to replace all my bushings and tie rods. I asked why and they said they were all worn enough that they were all causing the problem. I didn't buy it. Now if I would go from 40 to 60 under heavy throttle, I could get past the wobble and it would run all day. But between 45 and 60 it would almost always wobble and violently!!! Eventually I replaced every part that can be replaced including tires twice because they would wear out fast. 4 or 5 shops tried to fix it and no one knew what to do. After putting up with the problem for several years and spending probably $2,000, I was thinking about what was going on when it was wobbling. I had even stuck my head out the window to watch the tire. What I decided was the toe in was causing the problem. I know it was aligned to specs at least 5 times but something was still not right! I got my tape measure out and a couple of pieces of angle iron and set the toe in to less than 1/8th of an inch. It was over 3/8ths when I first checked it. It has now been over 100,000 miles later and never once have I experienced the DW! I figured out the geometry of these suspensions cause this problem when they get to a certain harmonics. With the toe in adjusted in too far, the left tire will try to go right at a certain harmonic and when it gives in to traction making it slip, then the right tire will be trying to go left and at just the right harmonics the fight for traction gets to be more than the tires can support and they begin fighting and they start the wobble. Don't know if this is a good explanation, but when I took almost all the toe in out of my alignment, it fixed the problem. Even with 31 inch tires the wobble never came back. I now have over 160,000 and it runs and drives like a new one.... Almost.... lol...

When doing this , if your going to add more than one degree caster you will likely require a bushing for both sides to equalize caster ,if you have a higher reading difference (cross caster) , usually 1.5-2.0 degrees or more the vehicle may pull left. also keep in mind some of there adjusters affect camber ,the tilt of the wheel in and out and cause excessive tire wear (cross camber) most shops wont mess with this , discuss the bushing change first before giving you their money. Expect to replace the ball joint more often as it loads the ball joint differently. As others stated , get your alignment checked after this modification , it could wipe out your tires. The reason the caster gets lower on the right side is because thats where the bumps and potholes live, the caster angle gets bumped back.

I lifted my 95 XJ with long arms and a Dana 44 high pinion front axle and designed in 6 1/2 degrees of castor just for this very reason.

Will this work for a 2012 F250?

Thanks Nick! Like #35 Did you ever do anything with your CP4 fuel pump? I am thinking about the S&S Diesel’s Ford 6.7 CP4 to DCR Fuel Pump Conversion Kit. Thoughts?

Negative caster allows for easier steering by the driver while positive caster requires more effort but the truck will almost steer itself. Personally i prefer more effort to steer but most people are lazy af.

an example of caster is, think of a shopping cart, when you have a wobbly wheel it's from bad caster that was the easiest way I learned about caster

Did this to my truck last year.... 3 degrees + caster seemed to be the magic number.... I run 37x13.50 with an 8 inch lift. Zero Death wobble!

I run my tires at 60psi instead of 80psi. I air up if hauling a load. If I have my 8.5' snowplow installed, I air the front tires up to 80psi. I like the ride at 60psi when I'm empty

Another version...I had my Grand Cherokee to 5 different shops, spending more than $2000. Numerous shop owners and so called "front end specialists" telling me this was worn out and that wasn't any good. I was told that all it needed was an alignment so I think I had like 8 or ten alignments done on it. When this "dw" thing started (I had less than 30,000 miles on the Jeep), I replaced everything under the front end except the axles and the differential itself. Power steering gear box, everything!!! Still when I was going between 45 and 60 and hit the slightest little bump in the road, death wobble would nearly throw me off the road it was so violent!!! Everyone that aligned the thing did it according to what the "book" said to do. I knew it had nothing to do with worn out parts. It was getting the wobble from the flex in the tires. I decided to take things in my own hands and try and figure out what was happening. First thing I did was to adjust the toe in to where it had little to no toe in. My thinking was by what I was feeling in the steering wheel, the tires were fighting each other by one trying to roll toward the center and when it overcame the force of traction it jumped up and lost traction. This caused the other side to dip down and since it was now carrying most of the weight and was turned toward the center because of excessive toe in, it tried to go to center and when it got in a bind it would jump up and cause the same condition on the opposite side. I now have over 160,000 miles on my jeep and have not experienced death wobble once since I took all but the slightest bit of toe in out of my alignment. I have helped numerous friends with the same problem and to date, I have fixed the dw of all of them so hopefully this will be of help to you also. My thoughts are that the length and geometry of the control arms are a perfect match to create a harmonic condition that if they are forced to try and fight toe in, it creates this wobble and the tires can't help themselves!!! One other thing that led me to this conclusion. While I was trying to figure this out, I put a new set of tires on it because I was told my tires were bad and it made it worse than it was before the new tires. I went from stock size to 31 inches tall because I wanted taller tires anyway. Logic told me that I now had more side wall and the flex was greater than the shorter tires so I had one more piece of information to inject into the puzzle. Sorry for the long explanation, hope it helps you and others!!!

You kind of left me hanging. You dont show your install of that new bushing and how you dialed it in. A link to the bushing where you purchased it would have been welcomed by everyone who views this. Is there a descriptive name for that bushing that I could search for that would enable me to duplicate your results?

I do not see a link to where you got this on Amazon. Thanks

It's a simple toe adjustment. People think you need toe in. You dont. It can be very touchy on some vehicles, so its best just to adjust your toe out a touch at a time, til it stops. Then set your steering wheel. Camber and other things can make a difference, but the root cause is the tires not tracking together.

Where did you end on Caster... What degree? I agree, used to teach automotive years back and caster was a valid Non-Tire Wearing adjustment for adjusting streering behavior (Toe & Chamber wear tires). Your Bike fork is a great example; Can also relate to a shopping cart, which is always a negative caster and ft wheel often rattles & shakes back & forth as you push it. Steering neutrality, return to center track, ease of leaving center track, response to bumps and steering reaction to jounce & rebound... All variables of caster. From Zero... Adding Positive (top pin rearward) improves holding and returning to center track, and slow steering response... These give a more stable feel on wheel. Increasing positive to extreme will push the tire contact point beyound it's ideal center zone relationship to spindle. You're correct, adding a little positive will improve center track alignment, too much positive will begin to introduce a different wobble based on tire / spindle angle relationship. Negative chamber enhances off-road steering by reducing desire to return to center track and places tire contact slightly behind spindle axis... Providing more agility in steering and ease move off of center track. As a off-road example that uses positive camber to provide center track in dirt and not quick steering are Ag Tractors. Their goal is to enhance straight steering in loose dirt and use strong positive caster. Adjusting caster used to be a common adjustment with older suspension when all 3: Chamber, Caster, Toe were all easily made to adjust. Pushing a little positive (1-5 degrees) will normally always improve steering stability and retain center track. Too much can induce a new wobble. Great work & video... You're on track!

Where is the Amazon link for these?

Can it just be zero caster? I was taught young that zero was the best for drivable balance. Balance between self centering easy steering and wondering/constant hands on three wheel. By zero I mean the middle of whatever specs were

My truck does it too will this cause so truck pulling sometimes when you turn sharp ?

I replaced the drag link, steering gearbox and pump on my 78 f250 2wd in 2020. It seems like within weeks the steering was worse and then developed a real bad bumpsteer wobble.

My 22’ with 19,000 miles wanders. And you always have to do a lot of small steering inputs to keep it going straight. This truck has done this since day one . I hate the ford steering. My bro in law has a 20’ GMC and it steers GREAT.

Could not find a link for them? Are the for a 4x4. Have a 2006 350 6.0

I have the exact same bushings. It looks to me like the small arrow (thick end) should go to the rear of the truck. Is this correct?

I am not sure why ford would spec 0 caster. If you load the back down.. then you would gain caster. But if vehicle loaded correctly.. it won't be much. Inflate tires to the vehicle spec for best wear pattern. Only variance I would say is if you have a f350 and you don't haul loads ( like it's intended), then drop the pressure a bit. Make 10psi from the spec. F150 or passenger car.. follow the sticker.

Increasing positive castor will beat the edges of your tires more, but not so much that rotating them often won't fix that problem. That said race cars depending on there intended use often use more than typical cars and trucks as it helps with turn in speeds and stability, we won't talk about motorcycles here... lol

Where can I get these for my 1989 ford super duty. And what do i ask for. Thank you in advance.

If you do have an alignment done it involves inspecting the " linkages" tie rod ends and parts for wear.

I lifted my 2023 f250 and installed 37s on the factory wheels. Drives great and the alignment shop said everything was good. I have 0 death wobble and my steering isnt to hard. Do i really need this?

I wonder what would happen if someone made an offset bushing set for the link-arm mounts to rotate the whole axle by a few degrees?

This also applies to all twin I beam fords from the eighties foward.

Ford as with other manufacturers don’t add extra castor because it makes steering stiffer at low speeds and you can tell when stopped ant turning steering especially at idle and they want to sell trucks so they make then steer easily for comfort There is a reason that companies that make lifts and kits for these trucks use drop brackets for radius arms or an radius arms with adjustable settings that is to add castor Anytime the front goes up the castor angle decreases physics

This is great, but what you should've done is film it 'death wobbling' and then film it again after the mod on the same road & at the same speed to demonstrate the improvement.

Changed mine years ago

Old news, Chevy straight axle square bodies had about 10 degrees caster, new superduty spec is 0, Jeep JK stock is about 3, lift them 2.5 inches you want 4, lift 3 go to 5 degrees, over that 6 degrees minimum. 42 year tech

I love the pics, but I do not understand why you think it's okay to change the caster which I do agree with. But you're okay with Ford telling you to run your tires much softer than the vehicle should have even though it just makes it a little bit more comfortable to drive. The reason why most tires are under inflated is because it makes the car ride better. You will get better Tire performance and better driving with at least bringing them up buy a number of pounds.

My 2019 has only 23,700 miles on it and it just did it VIOLENTLY. Can’t see any movement in any parts, definitely must need more caster. Had an old twin I-beam truck I converted to power steering, all of a sudden every time the road even changed color it darted one way or the other. I took it to an alignment guy and found it only had about +3* caster. He set it up with +14* caster and thing when down the road like an arrow. And no it didn’t ware tires, after 30K my Michelins still looked new. My 2019 is going to get as much caster as they can put in it.

what is the name of that bushing?

The sad thing about all this the lack of training the alignment tech gets (or cares to get) I learned alignments and caster/camber/toe way back when the alignment heads aimed a light onto a wall mounted board and went to Hunter for training. Now you roll up on the lift, slap some flags on the wheels, glance at the numbers and call it done. No understanding of alignment geometry required.

The part he left out is when you turn that sleeve it also moves your camber you have to keep your camber from 0 to a half positive to keep from haveing tire wear so you can only get so much positive caster an keep your camber right I ran a alignment shop for 45 years so I know what I’m talking about you believe what you want it’s nothing to me just telling it like it is

Lol much better to use a alignment rack with actual numbers so you keep the camber within range while raining the caster its fine adjust the caster but helps to have .5 degree split to the left for road crown if you have more the 1.0 degree split it will pull to the lowest side lol dont tell them you have a death wobble. anything with excessive play in it should be addressed as a alignment guy id rather you tell me whats going on with the truck if all you want is slugs installed thats fine but i will still advise you what i see on your truck this can happen to all vehicles trucks with that style of front suspension jeeps to after you install that slug you need to adjust the toe and hope your keeping the camber in the green as well i would hate to see some one just install these at home and think its all good theres more that will need to be adjusted 💪🔧🚗🇺🇸

While you're on the topic of vehicle geometry , ... its kind of scary the way the excursions tow angles were sitting . At minimum , a tandem axle trailer should be towing level . Preferred handling occurs with 4 inches of elevation off of the trailers fulcrum ( the front of the trailer ). It appears that you may have exceeded the excursions Payload capacity , taking into.consideration what the tongue weight may have been on that trailer , and the nose high angle of the excursion . Regardless of load distribution bars distributing the tongue weight to both axles of the tow vehicle instead of just the rear axle without them , it does not increase the tow vehicles payload by using load distribution bars . Having said that , with the power unit ( tow vehicle ) nose up , this Greatly affects handling .... you can get less steer axle road affect ( less effective braking , less steering control , less stability at any speeds ) . Which makes the trailer far more influental on safe handling with towing angles like in the photo . Either the tow vehicle was exceeded in payload , or the load distribution bars were not set up correctly ... or both heavans forbid . Yes ...there is a geometry issue that manufacturers need to address , but its up to us to ensure the basics are in place with variables that affect handling we ourselves create , such as with any modification like big wheels , hub extensions , lift kits , etc. P.S. - Never use a hammer to check steering components .... only check steering linkages with the vehicles full weight on its wheels and moderately shake the steering wheel back and forth just enough to move each respective linkage while squeezing your fingers on either side of the steering linkage joint boot to feel the differential movement between the two joints. This is done because you can't see subtle amounts of play from wear . You obviously need a helper for this . Note: Often F250 and 350's have the right outer tie rod wear out before other linkages. Also , you should disconnect steering dampeners to check them on Any vehicle. They should be fairly hard to actuate / stroke , just like a new standard shock absorber would be . Often they will lose their charge of oil or gas and it won't be noticeable because these components are horizontal and the charge inside goes to the ground and not all down the body of the steering dampener . Hope these basic starting points help some folks with inspecting their own vehicles before jumping too far ahead .

You used a bike as an example. A bunch of those ship with the forks backwards to shorten the box, and then and get assembled at some store by someone too incompetent to notice. And you know the result.

The shopping cart analogy would've worked as well.

Jeep xj taught me about death wobble. I replaced everything with BDS 6.5 long arm lift lol

Why Ford hasn’t figured this out is absolutely embarrassing and unacceptable

Pretty sure you have that backwards. Too much positive caster causes shimmy. At least that was case on my Chevy K30 farm truck.

The term death wobble doesn’t remind me of my truck . It reminds me of where it came from originally and that is Harley!

I just shared with my uncle that has a death wobble on a f450

This happened to my 2016 F259 in 2021. 3 different dealers couldn't fix it. Finally it just stopped and hasn't happened since. Knock on wood..

why ain’t there lawsuits,Recalls??? There must be a Death rate or Crash rate because of this shit smh i’m Pissed they need to fix this crap

All the heavy duty trucks, no matter the brand , all get the death wobble. Not just Fords. Chevy/GMC and Ram also do this.

Coat it with anti-seize

The reason for the Ford caster angle is so that the steering would be easier with a load on. Those trucks were designed for work. Nobody works their truck anymore. The guys that do are happy with it. If you need an F350 to go to the grocery store, you must buy tons of food. You can't design something to be driven with weight in the bed and keep people that want it to be a car happy.

Amazon line

Why is Ford not doing this? Must be a negative affect

This video seems like click bait. How about more installation information and at least a link to the part.

FORD NEEDS TO DO A RECALL FOR RECALL!! COST me over $4000.00 from the dealership! They worked on my 2012 F250 diesel with ONLY 105,000 miles on it! PLUS dealership the ONLY people to SERVICE it! Plus 30 days before SPARKS was coming from under the FRONT end costing approximately another $4000.00 BEFORE DEATH WOBBLE!! WHY DIDN'T THEY DIDN'T NOTICE ANYTHING!! 30 days!! F250 WORST FORD EVER OWNED!! NEVER WILL BUY ANOTHER! My F350'S ONLY replaced water pumps on them..

typical ford

3 year old truck wobbling lol, built ford tough huh.

The bushing changes caster and camber. You might get the caster you want, but not the camber. They make several bushings of varying degrees. You are better off letting the shop install the bushings with alignment. We always had a selection to get caster and camber the best possible. This video is lacking a lot of information. Kinda doing a disservice.

I didn’t get it because I don’t buy that ford trash.