I know you've made automata for years, and are definetly a genius in many ways. I have made cam and cable motorized sculptures for only about 6 years now and thought I'd mention a couple things I learned in that brief time that may or may not help. One thing I've discovered is that bicycle cables are often made cheap and with a substantial load and repeated use, such as in a show, they tend to fray and break sooner than I like. Motorcycle throttle and brake cables will give you a long worry free life and added strength, even cheap or used ones. Also, your previous hand crank pieces that are so amazing, are different in one important way than one like this that will be used for a client at a public event and motorized. You can stop cranking a hand-powered piece if you see someone approach it or if someone grabs a part or puts something into it. A motorized piece doesn't see those things and doesn't stop until the cycle is complete. So a finger in a pinch point, or someone hanging onto or in the way of a moving part can mean a serious injury or could break your automation. I had my whiskey drinking pig at a premier VIP event at the World Equestrian Center. You'd think the crowd would be sensible enough to not grab a moving sculpture arm, yet one older lady that had a bit too much to drink grabbed the arm, mid-cycle and tried to hang on while her husband took a picture. Fortunately, I had the forethought to go back and add a load switch that paused the automaton until she released the arm. The driving mechanics had enough torque that it could have broken the internals. So it's a good idea to keep your client's display area in mind and try to keep pinch points and dangerous moving parts guarded in your design. I try to always keep parts closed off, or in other design make it difficult to get injured. An example is a shark I made that opens and closes it's mouth, where I made the closing Jaws not completely close. The first show, a kid put his fingers in while his mom was standing there, and that extra thought saved his fingers from getting hurt. My fish feature springs, so they can only apply so much pressure when closing instead of a solid lever closing them. Also, 60 seconds isn't a long time to run a motor, but checking the specs and maybe put a torque wrench on your main driveshaft if possible, to see if it's within the motor's capability. I've had to pull pieces back apart when I first started because I didn't do my homework and the extra heat burned the motor out. Now I get the specs, test my automata and oversize my drive motor. Using DC voltage drive motors is also a good idea inside of moving metal art. Protecting the wires is crucial, but with lower voltage DC motors, if you do have a wire fray or short to the metal, you won't get a heart-stopping 120vac jolt, and it's not going to cause pieces to be arc-welded together. Best choice is 12vdc in what I've seen, it allows you to use other 12vdc automotive/RV motors, lights, and controls. Well, that's my two cents from my own learning experiences. Keep up the awesome work, can't wait to see it finished!

I'd love to see the finished welder sculpture

Ivan is a brilliant creator! 👍🔥

Outstanding Work.....cheers.....

I saw this dude on a netflix metal working show.

Art !!! Greate!!!

Feel crazy about your jiant works

Best

I like this fella... And I LOVE what he's doing. I also REALLY enjoyed this video. But.... I'd just like to point out that, "there's more than one way to skin a cat" and "that's just not how my brain works" are precisely how we got the Common Core Math system.