Not uncommon. I pulled my 160' well this year and it had sch 80 1" PVC threaded with steel couplers and it pulled in one piece. I used my forklift 20' height to pull it with and it arced nicely without breaking. Probably wouldnt have tried it with sch 40 glue up pipe.

Similar to the knife advice..."Cut your buddy not your body"!! lol

I like to work high-school kids during the summer & teach them about hard work and to learn a skill & learn tools, but recently I have 2 new guys older than myself. With age comes trust, & I trust them to drive my equipment/trucks. Teens not so much.

@@h2omechanic Good Points - I love your ThanksGiving pump replacement at the lake house with Gandpaw hammering that home to his prodigy. My Dad always taught me to always give my boss more than he paid me for. I started as a grun on the shop floor at 18,000 employee company and worked up to the executive level. The shops could never figure out I could just walk through a shop and nail them on 80% of their problems without even talking to them. It was always harder in the long haul to do things half-ass and just keep redoing it over and over rather than do it right the first time.

In some of his other videos, he says he's had good luck using the waterproof tape around the splices, and the newer 2 wire pumps are 'soft-start' so not much torque trouble. and i imagine the black well 'pipe' can absorb some torque compared to the brittle white PVC.

No unfortunately not. I try to stick with 2 wire pumps due to them not requiring a control box. But normally it's simple. 5 wires, all color coded.

If you got power to the well & its not running & doesn't trip the breaker, normally that's a indication of a bad wire going down the well. Typically you'll find multiple bad spots in the wire. Bad pumps normally trip the breaker. Either way you must remove the pump from the well

@@h2omechanic Okay got it. I figured the well would have to come out. I wasn't here when it got put in so I'm going to open it up and figure out how deep it is. Thanks so much. Great content by the way.

Flat Yellow Kayless Brand

Yes

Need help

No help here!!!

That's probably an old tech for a low water safety. But no I haven't. Commercial jobs require the turn for pressure checking.

Some things you learned and understand by doing.

200ft you'll only need a solid ABS well seal Home depot online sells 200psi black roll pump drop pipe in a 300ft roll.

@@h2omechanic, hope you get well quick. Take plenty of vitamen C, Zinc, and D 3 and it will help a lot. My old well had 1 1/4 pipe, so on the new poly, do I go 1 inch or 1 1/4?

This one is made by McDonald co

I've done that before, but it requires a nice big arch so the pipe didn't break. It's just risky. If it breaks it can fall

By law they want it filled with bentonite chips at the water level, then clean fill dirt. Unless the system is used for irrigation purposes. So that's what he said he was doing basically to save money

@@h2omechanic interesting....here if you want to change the purpose of a well you need to get a permit for that. Not required in your locale?

Typically the installer doesn't put the pump deeper. Try using string woven 5 micron filter elements in your filter housing. FYI, pulling up a pump 10ft-30ft doesn't help decrease sediment. (If that was your thought)

@@h2omechanic I actually have those in hand gettng ready to put in. Any idea why it would do that after 17 years of not doing it. BTW I'll give you something for your time, your a professional and i appreciate the info.

So when a customer tells me they're getting sediment randomly after 15+ years, normally it's due to a new vein that's opened up feeding the well water & its bringing in the sediment that's blocked it up for years & years. Or you might have metal casing that's 40 y/o & it's rusted a hole in the casing near the joints, this brings in sediment from outside of the casing. Normally a quick camera investigation of the well can show the issue

@@h2omechanic Thanks again for the Info, the casing isn't Metal (fyi) but i never thought about a different vein, that makes a lot of sense. I sent you a little something on PP. Have lunch on me!

It's made by McDonald

Yes, he's mentioned that 'waterproof' tape in several videos. Easy to be fooled, it looks a lot like electrical tape I'm in the process of reinstalling my 260 foot deep pump, the pump and cable shop gave me 2 rolls of the waterproof tape. They also said OK to use 2" wide 10 mill 'pipe wrap' tape to secure the new 4 wire flat cable to the black pressure line. Just make sure everything is dry before you wrap it.

Use a hammer and flat head & pry around the lip of the well seal, it'll pry up

@@h2omechanic ok. I got pvc pipe .I haven't had water for a week..just ordered a vevo pump u tested..hope it lasts. .it's a 2hp 220v I hope it's a 2 wire as it didnt say anything about a control box which I hate.. so we have to pull the pump with PVC pipe ourselves with no foot break like u have..luckily the pump has a metal braided wire on it..imma pull it and cut it then put black poly wire..it's 175+ feet. I don't know where water level is yet.. I didn't have good water pressure with my last one..

@@h2omechanic do you gotta number? I ordered the vevor 3 wire pump but I'm confused as it don't have a N which would be a built in capacitor.. I'm on the phone now with them . But it don't say nowhere in here that I need a control box so idk

It's the 2hp pump 2 wire..3 with ground srry . It's a 4sdm4 4/16 pump 220v 60hz 2hp pump

@@JimmyL361311 it doesn't require any controls box. It just needs to be wired to a pressure switch & fed with a double breaker 30amp 240v

I'd trench from his well to your house, all you need is a pipe "tee" into the line anywhere. You can't power the pump. Just give him $200 a year for the electric bill (Well Pump portion). A system under pressure will flow in all directions. So just run a pipe.

So can I not cut into the line before it gets to his switch and tank. He is not going to let me dig a trench to his house because it will have to run beside his driveway and this area is really rocky.I could see where his drive area might get damage

@@ronniebuffkinsr8399 Find the pipe once it is out of the well and put a tee into it. Take it to your property. Don't dig up his wires. :)

Ive never heard of these cooling sleeves what do they look like

@@christianfigueroa1517 Some call them cooling sleeves, ( Pump Flow Inducer, Pump Flow Sleeve, or Just Pump Sleeve) A sleeve that is larger diameter than the pump which is capped (closed off ) at the pipe/pump end and extends past the motor end then forces water to enter that end and be drawn across the motor before getting to the intake screen which in turn keeps motor cooler as well as lasting longer. Without it the motor just sits in stagnant water that is not moving, therefore water entering the intake above the motor has no chance to help cool the motor itself. I use 3" pumps and put a 4" pvc pipe over it open extended 1-2 ft below the bottom of the pump motor which forces water to draw across the motor. There's another trick shown to me by an old well driller ...to hang your pump in a 6-8 ft piece of pvc pipe with about 15-20 1" holes drilled in the lower half and then set this pipe/pump at the bottom of the well eliminating the need for a torque arrestor and the pump pulls water thru the holes and up the pipe across the motor for cooling. All weight is supported resting on the pvc pipe with next to no torque at all.