And if you get in the wrong configuration, your local dealer probably has a tail light lens in stock. Don't ask how I might know this! LOL

I got my first order from Messick's last week and my wife asked me what was in the big box. Without pausing I sang as deep as I could "A helping hand with your land!". I've been waiting years to do this joke apparently.

I work at an auto plant. A lot of the holes or other features in a cars structure that aren't used in it's assembly are usually used at some stage in its manufacture. A hole may exist solely to fit over a locating pin in a fixture before some parts are welded, for example.

Love your videos. Right to the point without a bunch of frilly nonsense. Thank you for the information!

Great video. Very informative. A lot of men aren't necessarily sure if you should be using all the holes. 😉

Great info, truly answered a lot of questions I’ve had for years.

Great information once again thank you, sometimes just knowing that you can move things around a bit and not cause a problem is a relief for inexperienced owners like myself and that not every hole has to have a use.

Thank you so much, Neil. I’ve been trying to figure out how to get my Woodland Mills stump grinder to go just a few inches deeper, behind my Don Fletcher tractor. This may help, indeed. Kind regards, Ted, in NJ.

I’ve had my B 7510 since 2004 and I did not know what the extra holes were for thank you

I build my own tools to go on my 3 point hitch. I have a small compact tractor a 234 International hydrostatic transmission tractor. I used a furniture dolly mounted for my 3 point hitch to move wood. It kept braking every day until I bought my own welder. I have built a box scraper, a rake and pallet forks . I also use it to stabilize it for pulling trailers. Works great! Multiple uses.

Hey Neil! Outstanding video and information, as always. I've owned two different tractors, and still learned something. When I had my BX23, I did have to make some adjustments when I had a PTO driven chipper that I ran off of the back. Didn't really know what I was doing, but trial and error ended up working out just fine. 👍💪

Love your videos Neil! Very informative as usual

I decided on the Yanmar tractor. That being said, I do appreciate the wealth of information that Neil shares with everyone. Extremely well spoken, concise and easy to listen to and understand. Many of his tips are not brand specific. Definitely the best channel for tractors on KZfaq!!

Never had to change my link position on my Grand L for numerous implements. Thank for another informative video 👍😊

Excellent, Neil! Often with rear implements it's about geometry. Changing the length of your top link will change the angle of your rear blade causing it to dig in more. Trial and error can often be a brutal and costly teacher. Your tips are great. I really like the telescoping link set up. I had the old turnbuckles on my old Kubota and this is MUCH easier on my L3560.

Neil thanks again for the timely information. Again I wish I had the information that you are providing when I got my first tractor. The dealer just dropped it off and I had to figure it out on my own.

FINALLY! Been waiting on a video about this!!! Thankyou

On my MX5200, I have to go with the upper hole on the lift arm when I put my grader blade on. This allows for more clearance to back over snow banks or dirt mounds to drag them out. Most every other implement uses the lower holes. I think I change it for my rotary mower also so I can actually lift it off the ground for travel.

That's pretty neat! I never knew that about the reversible top link. Just like how they handle a 540/1000 pto: The stub shaft is double ended.

Using a middle buster to dig potatoes using our LX2610, we shifted to the holes closer to the rear of the tractor on the arms so we could get the plow down far enough in the soil to kick the potatoes up. We also use a quick hitch, which adds some length, and helps add a bit more depth in this case. The process is a bit more involved switching back and forth as we have to take off the quick hitch to move holes on the arms, and then put them back for other implements, but this made all the difference in using that attachment.

Very good and informative!

Thank you for the understand explanation👍

Great information, thank you 😊

Good video but would like to see a video on adjusting the adjuster arm to level it or slant is for using a blade

Thank you Sir!!

Let me tell you, I have a B2650, plus a few standard Implaments. My pride and not so joy 3 POINT TRACTOR SUBSOILER ATTACHMENT. When it’s mounted on the 3-point raised all the way up, it has maybe one inch of clearance from the bottom of the fork to the ground. I have about 3-acres to play around, good part is Clay and Tree roots. This Implement goes through it like a boss, even buried full depth of 18” working distance..

There coming to arrest you Neil. I’ve been around 3pt implements my whole life and never knew some of the things you talked about, thanks Neil

Neal. Thanks for the video. I am not a rookie and learned from your video. I have a 58 HP tractor that has a Cat2 3-point and it has a top link as you described. One end is Cat2 and the other is Cat1. I have not been using the top link that came with the tractor with my Cat1 blade because the Cat2 end of the top link is too wide to fit the space where it needs to attach to the blade. Watching the video it makes sense what you said about the top link being reversible. I went out to my tractor and found that the bracket that hold the top link at the tractor is definitely Cat1 size as far as the pin size and the measurement of the inside of the bracket. so I am not able to flip my top link around and put the Cat1 at the implement because the Cat 2 end of the top link will not fit on the tractor side. Hope this makes sense. I have been tempted to grind 1/8” off the shoulder on each side of the Cat2 end so it would fit but I have not done so. What do you suggest?

Thanks for this!!!!!!!!!!!!

Neil, Great information. The purpose of my comment is not toward the video, but to compliment your parts and shipping department(s). I ordered some parts for my NH 273 baler early in the afternoon, and got the package the next day in the early afternoon. My house is in Lorton, Virginia, more then 2 county boy rock throws from Pennsylvania. Great service. Cheers, Mike

I added a adjustable rock shaft to the left link side so I can lower or raise the either side to use on my blade or rake when I need to go up steep grades when I can't pull loads up hill, works great.

can you do a Tour of your new store? please 🙏🙏

Good video and educational. I need to check my b2650 to get the box blades to drop lower for pond bank sediment removal

I had to move my side links to a different hole in the draft arms to accommodate a 3PH spike tooth drag that had the lift pins about 6" off the ground.

Great explanation Neil! I would like to see a video on hydraulic top and side links and what advantages/disadvantages they offer. Keep up the great work! 😀

That’s nice to know after 15 years of fooling around with these tractor’s.

Very helpful. Thanks from Ottawa,Ont.

Good information Neil! In a later episode, could you talk about adjustment of the 3 point hitch. I have a L5030 that does not seem to raise an implement (rear snowblower) very high off the ground at max lift. I heard there is an adjustment screw that could be used to vary the range of motion. Thanks

Outstanding videos. Would love to know you thoughts on sway bar holes. I have quick hitch and typically leave in pin in elongated hole. I run a variety of implements, are there any that should be pinned in specific holes? L4701 - RC, Box Blade, rake, spreader, disk, even have BH 92 Thx

Great video cheaped out on my 3pt plan to upgrade 🤙 Saw the new Kubota KH15 video just released on landpride channel looks great for rear 3pt hitch and pto link from seat would be a great video for Neal’s reviews if you have time. Looking for as many options for one handed tractor and implement operation due to disability.

Cool info

Aloha Neil! I’ve had issues with brush hogs… when I bought my first tractor (L4701) three years ago, I bought it with a 72” rotary cutter. I’ve broken six blades on the thing (although none lately). The way the dealer set it up seemed to create some problems… I read the manual and according to it everything was ok. I started adjusting various angles (tailwheel height, top link, etc), and things seem to be better now. Could you do a “master class” in setting one of these up? I noticed letting it “sway” more seemed to help.

Great video! I learned a lot in Messick's class today 🤣. Something that I can not find out is that I have the turnbuckle stabilizers on my L3901. With a quick hitch attached, can I tighten them all the way so that I have no sway on the 3 pt. lift arms or would that cause damage? Thanks in advance!

Doesn't moving these around also effect your PTO shaft, possibly leading to binding it up and causing damage?

Should you hook the top link up with the implement in the “up” position or the “down “ position? I keep bending the top link whe I use heavy implements such as my seed drill. Seems to bend when I lift it. So frustrating. What am I doing wrong??? Have a Workmaster 105 2022 version and a 6 foot Cabela’s seed drill

I don't think you mentioned the adjustment on the right lower link. I'm new to this stuff but it seems to me that this adjustment allows you to level your attachment from side to side. Or in the case of a moldboard plow I think you want the right side higher than the left so that the plow is level when your right side tires are down in the furrow that you plowed open on your previous pass. Am I correct? Should this lower arm adjustment be used in the case of a plow to make the plow level when the tractor is tilted during plowing? Update to my question -- I purchased a used plow and the hitch pins are offset, the one on the left is lower than the one on the right, so that the plow is level when the right side tires are down in the furrow. Not sure if this is true for all plows, but it would make sense.

I made a video of the other hole on the three-point lift arms so the lift arms will go lower.. because my arms wouldn't lower enough to hook up implements and implement wouldn't go low enough.. should have been in them proper holes from the assembly

Do you kmow which position is used for the info on the spec sheet?

I really wished you were my dealership

Hi I would like to fit a hydraulic top link to my L2850 DT (1991). Is there a special valve available, attached to the rear hydraulic valve for the lower links or do I have to pick up hydraulics off the hydraulic bloc ( under the pump) at the right side front? Regards Heinz

Hi Neil. How does the subframe for a BH92 backhoe on a Grand L 5460 cabbed tractor effect the operation of the three point? Im thinking about adding a BH92, but currently have a top and tilt cylinder system. If I put a subframe on, will I still be able to use the Top and Tilt? Does this also effect the positions on the sway bars? does it limit them? Thanks

What hole does it need To be in with a qh 10 my arms Don't go low enough thx

Neil - I bought a 7’ Enorossi sickle bar mower (from Messick’s in E-town) and am using it on a 65-HP tractor. The lower 3-point arms are set at equal heights from the ground; however, the mower leans quite a bit to the bar side when raised. Is this normal and acceptable or should I adjust the lower arms to level the mower even though one arm will be about 3” higher than the other arm? Thank you.

👍 thanks

What is the max recommended RPM of a 2007ish M7040? I'm pushing snow with an LA1153 loader and wondering what is a safe RPM to use to get the loader to operate faster but not reduce the longevity of the tractor. I've been running it at 2000 or 2100 because 2160 is 540 PTO RPM so I figured the tractor was made to run that RPM all day long for weeks at a time. If I could safely run it at a higher RPM it would decrease my time on the tractor which would help a lot. I'm in it 4 to 5 hrs per snow storm as it is now.

Why did y'all stop uploading in 4k?

I’ve been told this, but no proof of it…. With older tractors that have draft control, where the top link attaches to the tractor, it has three three holes to adjust the sensitivity of the draft. Any truth to this?

Why does Kubota put that stupid non adjustable 3pt arm on there small tractors. I bought another adjustable arm for my BX so I could raise my rear blade as high as possible.

Omg … I feel so unnecessary only having a little subcompact and none of these things have anything to do with my little itty bitty baby tractor. I feel so out of place I I might need therapy now I’m gonna have to go to some online tractor forum and look for a tractor therapist… Maybe more of a push mower forum🤦‍♂️