To your comment about the power supply, I simply attached mine to the left side support of the gantry, using two big zip ties. Works perfectly fine.

great informative video. I'm looking into getting my first entry level router. this one seems to have a good value to performance. just a thought but if you adjusted the spindle up further in the spindle clamp so that the z axis would would hit the limit switch just before you hit the bed. this would ensure you would never hit your bed plus give you more rigidity in your spindle

Working for Inventables, this channel, editing podcasts, father....no wonder you haven't been putting out your podcast. You're a busy guy!

Hello sir, Coming from someone who is looking to save up some $$ for a real entry level machine I really appreciate your super informative approach and wonderful video formatting. Well done 👍🏼

You might have better results on aluminum if you moved the motor clamp as far down the motor as possible, and only have the minimum amount of the endmill sticking out of the collet. That would provide a bit more stiffness.

I've had mine a few months now. It's "alright." But I'm only cutting aluminum. I bet it does awesome with woods.

I bought this 3020 in Nov 2021 strictly for aluminum cutting. I’ve been using a competitors machine for over a decade and it works great. I was disappointed with this machine and had several issues. It will cut aluminum but not not very well. The 1/8” bit must be all the way in the shaft. (And to prevent milling the table it’s best to lower the Z axis to the lowest point and raise the spindle in the holder so the bit can’t reach the table.) But the spindle is just not rigid enough to handle the cutting, the length of the shaft allows slight flexing. And the spindle doesn’t have enough speed or torque. I found that even slowly cutting a 1” hole in 2mm aluminum with 9 passes was nail biting. It did cut the hole but was a struggle. The finished hole was a few thousands under size because the spindle rigidity was causing it to flex inward. And just drilling a 1/8” hole w the milling bit would sputter when reaching the bottom, and wallowed the hole almost every time. So to fix both issues I hack sawed the spindle holder (another problem-only a 55mm spindle fits), and mounted a $70 rotozip (600W 30K RPM) with metal strapping. Now it mills, drills, and cuts much better. Note that after less than 10 hours the 300W spindle stopped working. The other issue I had was that most all of the USB software I tried wouldn’t run a few commands of my existing gcode. Also, it was essential that I could stop and start the gcode from any gcode line, and couldn’t do it! So, to get around those problems I abandoned the USB controller and bought a parallel stepper driver and use LinuxCNC (or Mach2). Overall it’s a nice little machine but wouldn’t recommend for aluminum unless your into mods.

Wire management? Where we're going we don't need wire management!

Better get one of the 'new' (oh well for lack of a better term) 3020 machines that can go up to 5 axis. They look really promising for a small CNC aside from the up to 5 axis benefits. Also you do not want the powersupply attached to the machine. Dust, (metal) chips and EMI are some reasons why.

Is there any way you can shorten the tool extension beyond the collet? That would help dramatically in reducing the chatter and rough finish. The shorter, the better.

Amazing review! I want to ask you can i cut acetate plates for eyeglasses with this cnc?

With a less longer Bit, you could mill Aluminium much bettter. I have the TTC450 on my own and there is much more movement on the Z axis. but if your bit is not so long, you get better results. Have a great evening!

Hi.. Thank you for the video. Does it also accomodate lasers like 3018? If it does, can we put 40watts laser in there?

What would your recommendation be for a budget cnc router for flattening and engraving hardwood up to 24 inches? Thanks!

@4:45 why can't you move the motor up in the motor clamp to negate the extra length of the 1/4 bits ?

So... Your endmill is sticking out WAY too far and why you are getting chatter. Also you dont reduce your DOC, you reduce your WOC. Not sure why you would want to ruin the first 1/16" of the endmill. If your feedrate is too low compared to your RPM you are just recutting chips. Cutting aluminum really requires some type of evacuation, like a FogBuster air/coolant mixture. In the hands of someone that knows what they are doing these type of machines can do very well.

for the z axis, cant you just mount the motor up a bit higher, especially for using those 1/4 bits? and wouldnt that also make the spindle a bit more stable as well?

If you use smaller diameter bits will it reduce the amount of skips and chattering while cutting aluminum?

The Open Source *IndyMill* is neat too.

Can you do a demo of cutting copper from a standard PCB for cutting traces? Can I get a professional looking board from one of these? Thanks

How can you cut 1/8" and 1/4" thick aluminum? with this machine?

I wonder if this can mill carbonfiber or other composite materials

Should you rotate those knobs connected to stepper motors connected to their drives? I mean you’re sending electricity back through their wires/drives, right?

Do you think a carbide tipped bit would work good for carving in brass or aluminum?

How long do you think it would take to route 5 of those holes for example?

I have a 500 watt spindle. Will that fir this machine? It’s a 52mm and is there enough power for it or can I use the power supply it as with it? Thank you

You are having problems with aluminium because you are not using the correct type of end mill. If the mill is chocking up use an end mill with more flutes or a higher rotation speed. Also you need mills with cutting geometry specifically for soft metals like aluminium and brass on low powered machines like this. If you had tried this with brass it would have probably given even worse results because brass is so soft it tends to grab the cutter so definitely needs correct end mills with the correct geometry. Also a shorter end mill will help and repositioning the spindle higher up in the mount will produce less stresses in the z axis and gantry assemblies.

for some more Z height I bolted some 2040 onto the top of the side aluminum extrushion and to be honest that looks like this is all this little cnc needs, for the price I do think it is a really good hobby machine..

This is obviously a HUGE improvement over the 3018, but still with a couple of weak spots; staying within a target price point always results in compromise. ** The linear rails on the X-axis are great, so... why not the Y-axis? (Yeah, I know, PRICE!). ** The spindle is still not good enough. It is still just a cheap motor with the collet assembly held on with a grub-screw (or 2?). This is a guaranteed source of chatter. ** The gantry does not move, so extra mass and strength is good here. (Apart from freight costs.) Owners should add horizontal stiffening across the back, which would help in your "Pull on the toolbit" test. ** The cable-management is disgusting!... I am polite enough to assume this is not because you took shortcuts in the assembly! :o) This is a really useful video, thanks. Liked & Subscribed.

Just a quick mention regarding using the Offline controller, some folks don't know this, you cannot have your USB cable plugged in at the same time the Offline controller is being used. cheers!

Great little machines Tip i would have your bit shorter to give better rigidity Either push it up further into the collet or use a shorter bit

Nice machine, few corrections, the clamp bolt size on the worked are M6, not M16 You seemed to indicate using the knobs to adjust Z probe height & X/Y zeroing. Not exactly accurate as the DRO will not account for those movements and not know offset or a curate position to apply to Zero!

Your wish list will drive the price up.

Can you add a 4th rotary axis? Can you order it from the manufacturer? If not from where?

How feasibile would it be to swap out some of this hardware to be able to handle actually cutting metals? Or does anyone have any other recommendations for low price cnc metal machines?

It would be nice if they could design into this a dust collector motor with a small port that moves along side of the bit motor to collect the wood shavings/dust as the routing is performed. Is that what the "second motor" could be used for in the future?

You made circular pockets (10:13), the cutter is turning clockwise then you have to cut clockwise not counterclockwise, you will see your edges are getting smoother. Compare it with a chisel, you move it forward, not backward. Cheers!

How is this with acrylic? Looking for a decent cnc for my acrylic stamps for myself

Ask a daft question, can you use this to make log cabins by moving the long pieces along 4.8 meters by 65mm thickness, 95mm wide

This model is streets ahead of the regular 3018 in every aspect.

Would like to have seen some examples of what it does.

Does it cut hard Eva foam?

Will this machine also mill graphite blocks?

Great review! I am assuming it could mill HDPE or UHMW?

What rpm did you use for the aluminum? You'll get better performance with a shorter bit asbitll be more rigis.

Hi, this 3020 promax can cut 3 mm copper?

Can you go all the way thru 1cm thick plates? To make puzzles and stuff

Is that operated straight from a laptop? I have desktop 3020 and desktop died I'm looking for a laptop version 🙏

what about cutting holes where its just the tool size in 3/16" aluminum. so no craving just straight downward holes.

Can using on pavers or bricks 🧱?

please sir am in dubai where can i get that machine

300*200 is just a bit on the low end, would love to find an entrypoint 300*300 cnc

Been waiting for this machine for months. Decided I should get into desktop CNC machining because I was having so much fun with my k40 laser, and pretty quickly decided this was the machine to get because of the aluminium spindle bracket and the proper linear rails. Seemed like the likely price vs performance sweet spot. It had just started shipping to the US, surely they would get the UK certification sorted before long... right? That was like, 5 months ago maybe? Still waiting. Fkn brexit I guess.

Is the chassis completely aluminum?

If it does in fact get shipped to you assembled that helps a great deal imo. Unless it was shipped assembled just to you for your review. Not sure. Can't you lay the power supply and mount it just under the rails of the work bed and prop it up for air flow underneath? Thanks for your review of the 3020 Pro!

$500 they could include 3 ball screws to round the package up. The ACME lead screw has play and the anti back lash screw does not compensate well. You can do isolation milling to produce some PCB's, engraving turns out fine. But milling at a standard cutting performance? Not sure about that... NEMAs got bigger but still the drivers are step sticks and so on... NEMA23 would be nice but than you need better driver and at the end a more rigid machine so.... Better get get a 3018 both are CNC toys not much more (I bought my 3018 with injection moulded plastic parts for 140$ that was 2019 -2020 ish)

11 minutes in we find out we cant use it on aluminum, nice review.

Get a shorter cutter for aluminum

Use a shorter bit to prevent the bending on aluminium

Can this machine cut thin aluminum ? .... im looking to cut number shapes for my house number ....

Could this machine drill stainless steel?

Not interested in this Particular machine, but it was educational. Thanks!

This was a very helpful video! I would love to ask you what is the machine that you would get, similar travels on the axes with more on the z if possible, that can mill aluminum without serious compromise. Since aluminum likes to mess with us with it being gummy let's machine the gummiest aluminum - is that 6061 - if not please just specify and let's make say a motor mount plate. So a square shape, say 3"x3" by 3/8 or 1/2" when finished with a bunch of holes punched through for through bolts, some holes to be tapped, Lets also mill a pattern into the face of this square of aluminum that is say a 2" square shape that is 1/4" wide square track that we are ending with. The feature is also a finished depth of 1/4". So if we are using proper feeds and speeds from the machinists handbook or other proper sources what is the most depth we can take on each pass say even on your typical industrial heavy duty vertical milling machine. That sets our target or best possible case, then can you answer in your opinion which brand machine in these low dollar tiers do you think can actually come close to this level of performance. Last but not least this machine needs to be capable of true 3d milling into aluminum. Lets say we are going to mill a ball shape where we have a semi-circle full round shape the diameter of the circle is 3" and the height at the center of the shape is also 3" - so we are getting what would look like a bandsaw slice through part of a pool ball cut in half, Which machine can get great surface finishes and also do the work in a reasonable amount of time. I am assuming that if a machine could make this 3d feature then it could likely make most features that i would ever need it to. Please let me know if this is a poor assumption. This whole CNC market has so many machines that could never hope to do this work which is fairly basic work for sure. And I know that this was a little bit to read but I am hoping those of you with knowledge and experience will simply be able to just snap your fingers and say - yea, get a "THIS BRAND" and get "MODEL ABC123", they are great! Oh damn, we can't forget about cost, I would ask 2 things for cost. 1 - can you do this for under $1000? How about for under $800 and wow if we can you can do this for $500. I have no idea what to expect so I hope that there is some feedback and all of it is going to be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

I dont know why your running so much extended cutter, shorten the cutter up to a little more than your total "z" depth. That will at least minimise cutter flex.

You shouldn’t lose Z axis height with a spoil board if you simply lift the spindle higher and tighten it.

cable management - use some zip ties - great content #specifications matter #stonehenge

Give me a link.i want to buy this machine

What are the alternatives to Sainsmart Genmitsu 3020 Pro Max at similar prices? z axis still not rigid enough :(

When you described the spindle you said it was a VFD. This is wrong, it is not a VFD. VFD stands for Variable Frequency Drive. A VFD is used to drive a three phase AC motor. The motor used on this unit is a brushed DC motor. The speed is controlled by PWM, Pulse Width Modulation.

Does the machine work on stainless steel?

Plastic fan usually needs balancing by removing material to even it out. Check out Balancing a cheap 300w, 500w and 800w spindle motor by Matt Wall. Worked on mine! As far as aluminum, forget about it! This is not a metal cutting machine.

Hangon wait since when is brass softer than aluminium????

Could this carve cold rolled steel for stamp and impression plate making?

What is the hole spacing for the work holding grid?

No payment? The machine is your payment, 😂😂. Great video though

It should cut better if you cut clockwise into the work piece.

M16 hole ?? Looks like M6

i like the rats nest of wiring.....very DIY

pretty sure the Z axis is built upside down. The bit should stop about an inch above the table... to allow for workholding etc.

5:20 M8 max linear rods are 12mm(im sure lol) they allways are ...still

Is it able to build a guitar?

Tra-ta-ta-ta-ta🗣️. Easy man.

M16??? Screws

10:56 yes thats why i build 10 years ago spindle and z (2x)axis sandwiches TWO Y axis.. still no one do it. 9 year ago it was upgraded 4 axis. yes spindle rotate allmost 220 degrees LOL i cut part 3 faces same time even can drill and mill angled holes. yes it mean i needed make controller there was no backthen lol i mean controll software

Can engrave gold

It's a pity it isn't $500 for us in the UK. It is £540 (That's $660) and then plus 20% tax on top. That's nearly $800. Not the bargain it seems.

but it's small if i want to carve a sword!

sigh, could you have stuck the mill bit a little bit further out? FCOL

Are you indeed cutting in the wrong direction?

1:32 still lame acme and y z axis linear rods. next year full price 600buck upgrade get same linear blocks than x lol. ball skews and linear rails for all axis not cost 500. this machine make so much profit using still rods and acme(spring loaded backlash) still no 2 way nut and slots to adjust make it tight as you want no backlash no spring LOL or same money ballskrew

❤❤❤❤❤❤❤😊😊😊

Do the same for aluminium, and your results will be better, and some cooling with 50% water and 50% white spirit will increase your results 2.

om people need to learn how to always try to use full depth with ur tool and less stepp over bonus from that u get to use all ur tool and u dont wear up the end of the mill

jesus got enough of that bit sitting out of the chuck? Yeah 72mm doesnt seem like much when you have 30mm of extra bit shaft sitting out of the spindle that is completely unnecessary

Really, this vibrating clump does cost $500 ? Man, how lucky am I that I got a real milling machine for less than twice that money, Sieg X2P. No CNC but does mill steel or 1/2" aluminium in 1 pass. The original Genmitsu 3018 for $180 ist a bargain, but $500 for nearly same construction is way too much.

M16 threaded holes lol.

this is not cutting alu and making people happy. Wood with a good bit and thats it.

the basic laser is 3018.... if you want 2cm larger. get the 3020 pro max 😂

honestly... this thing looks cheap right away. i mean, it's $500. this is one of those things where you will actually pay MORE by trying to save money and going cheap.

Simply the total mess of a birds-nest of a wiring "loom" would make me reject the whole lot instantly.