Thanks a bunch Chadly! Always love hearing feedback like that. Thanks for watching and chiming in 👊

You are welcome! I'm glad it was helpful

Fluffy grass 😁 sounds like a nice combo

That's an excellent time to put a product like that down, as temps drop in Nov make sure to put a lower rate down, you don't want the stuff to leech away faster than the sleepy root systems can take it up. It should help a bit with color into Dec too, if my memory is correct you get a punch of iron the that bag also.

Bingo...You hit exactly what our lawn has been needing.last 2yrs I've been going through this very thing with the lawn.I do greatly appreciate your help...I subbed your channel.great info.no blah blah blah

I've got a 4 x 4 immune system

Thanks, these style vids are fun for me to make as they stretch me and my own learning.

I apply 0-0-50 (potassium sulfate) twice a year and over many years, soil tests show only a slight rise in soil K. Certainly the grass is using it and some is lost but it takes a lot of K to move the needle in the soil profile. These products work for helping the grass but will not improve raise soil K levels over time as will using 0-0-50. Sandy Loam soil.

Ok so you say ratio but where did you get this info? Can you please give a link or something? And why is that 7-0-20 fert bad? Only because of the K/Mg and K/Ca ratio? What’s the ratio that fert is at?

This is what I want to put in follow-up vids, to summarize though If I'm applying 4lb nitrogen to the lawn per year then I want 2.5 lbs of Potassium but I don't want to apply it when I'm applying micronutrients in the early Spring because excess K can slow down plant availability of the micro-nutrients that aid in the photosynthesis process. This is micro-management of the lawn at it's finest though so it's probably not worth it for most people to analyze it as much as I do. In mid-Spring I start using liquid aeration products which typically contain K but not N or P - and I use these products throughout the growing season for the health of my soil. You can also add a largely dedicated K fert going into summer as well as in mid-fall to prepare for cold winter stress. It should be easy to get to 2.5 lbs per year even if you don't get K with other types of applications.

In zone 5 new York you'll want to get started soon to establish new grass before it gets cold. Im the same here in high elevation Oregon. With overseeding you still want to do your best to ensure seed to soil contact, try using bagging mowers (or a dethatcher) to get as much material off the ground as possible and aggressive raking the area first to expose soil and create grooves in it. Then apply starter fert before spreading seed. Id probably go for the pgf now because id rather apply the milo later in the fall after the new grass has been growing for 6 weeks or so. Bith pgf and milo have good P content and will work for establishing healthy root systems. Before I put seed down I like to water deep, this works great because you want to water in that pgf anyway. The deep water helps with soil loosening a tad and gives the ground moisture to last a while during a week or two of frequent light watering to get that seed germinating. If you can add humic to the soil also to help encourage more microorganism activity over the next couple of months while those new roots are trying to toughen up for the winter. Good luck!

nitrogen is a regular application based on your grass needs, I would apply it separately from P & K as the cost of N in 12-12-12 is pretty high. Use something like 6-24-24 to take care of P & K and apply N with a regular lawn fert of your choice. 6-24-24 should be available at most Co-op's and would be applied in spring and late summer at 4# per 1000sf. While Co-ops are great they don't always have the best advice for us lawn nuts.

Yes. Why? Because your needs are a *ratio* of 1 part *N* to 1 part *P* to 1 part *K* (low application of P and K), or 1 to 2 to 2 (high application of P and K). A 10-10-10 fertilizer is a ratio of exactly 1 part *N* to 1 part *P* to 1 part *K* . Use a fertilizer calculator app to determine how many pounds of the 10-10-10 fertilizer is needed per 1,000 sqft to achieve 1-1.5 lb of N per 1,000 sq ft.

You're welcome; hopefully I'll get some follow-up vids to this lined up this Spring because I think a lot of people have questions about this macro.

I wish I could give you an answer off the top of my head but I've never done a deep dive comparison of the two for this channel of for my website. I will have to work on that comparison this season because I've gotten this question a couple of times now. My instinct tells me they are similar enough to just choose the cheapest option off the shelf but if you want to learn a ton about lime Matt over at the Grass Factor has a few vids on lime and he's a very smart guy.

@@TurfMechanic it depends on your soil test calcimatic lime is used if your test indicates you need more calcium dopamatic lime is used if you don't. You would use dolomatic lime if you needed magnesium. It does contain calcium as well but consists mostly of magnesium.

It depends on your soil test, calcimatic lime is used if your deficient in calcium, dolomatic line is used primarily if you need magnesium, dolomatic line however does contain calcium but has more parts magnesium than calcium.

and it has been priced out of my budget. The cost per lb of N is astronomical. I've switched to slow release ferts that use Methylene Urea for extended release. Greenview Fairway formula with fast release N from Ammonium Sulfate and K from Potassium Sulfate. NO Brainer!

I've started using granular SOP since this video was made. The amount of potassium in liquids like aeration products isn't high enough to realistically "catch up" on K fertilization. It's a nice touch but you are right, it's not as efficient.

@@TurfMechanic Thanks for your reply. I'm in Canada and recently used the Supergreen Muriate of Potash 0-0-60 product. It was about $20 CAD for a 2KG box and I put down about 2.7KG for 1,500 sq. ft. It seems to have made a significant difference in the density of the lawn and helped it green up very well this spring. My soil test had shown a deficiency in this area. Thanks for your great videos.

Good question, I'm actually not sure if it's technically considered organic because Leonardite is heavily processed to extract the humic/fulvic acids. It's certainly derived from natural resources (a crumbly rock) and I personally consider it organic/natural enough for me to use in my lawn but the processing may make it only "nearly" organic. I'd have to really research that to be completely accurate.

@@TurfMechanic ok I'm lookin to go all organic in my yard

@@truebengalsfan if you look it up please let me know if you can. I'm curious the technical classification. I'd argue it's probably organic enough though regardless of what you find but it's obviously your choice 😀

@@TurfMechanic according to google it is the most concentrated organic material available

@@truebengalsfan that's what I would guess but sometimes the processing of things changes the organic designation, for instance sulphate of potash is omri listed organic but muriate of potash isn't even though the difference is really just slanted towards the manufacturing

Yeah it's it's biosolid but id still consider it an organic fertilizer. Kind of like aged chicken poo or steer manure, they are organic products as well except there nutrition contents vary from source to source. Milo is certainly not a plant based organic fert, but then neither is blood meal or bone meal or hoof meal either. 🤔

Last I checked, Milorganite no longer includes any organic labeling on their product.

I think you are right... I don't know the particulars of labeling requirements but my guess is they had to change labeling due to some random requirement. Again, its not plant based organic fert but it's not synthetic either. In my own mind I still consider it to be an organic option for the lawn but I know others will classify a biosolid as something different. I think that's ok.

😁