They are gonna need a lots of amperage for that one. Would be cool though

It wouldn't be a G54 episode without someone saying this.

Might be easier doing a hybrid type and have a generator running to help power the motors

@@chrissi.enbyYT more than a few!

Now that would be cool too see !

I like the way your thinking

Gaskets will go flying with boost

@@antevernersson7387 And that is exactly what we want to see. :)

With a compression of 5 It sounds like a car from the 20's

Yes. But until the right amount of fuel and o2 is given. High flow injectors are needed for safety if not it blows the gaskets. Just wait for. Lol

Right here ☝️

also valve timing could be wrong because cam is farther away from cam. it need to be checked..

@@AM-we5bj Exactly, this is happening. Now the distance between gears is 9mm longer, but the chain is still the same. Hence it will advance timing

@@estebanquito356 maybe 2 more link could fix problem? It it aprox 1cm per chainlink

And valve timing, as I totally missed, and so did garage 54, apparently. It would be easy to use a fully adjustable cam drive sprocket to remove this obviously apparent contributor. Ignition timing, obviously, is easy peasy.

Russian clocks

Yes.

Danger to manifold!

Some Deutz engines did actually came that way without head gasket, but it has super precise machining and proper torque on bolts.

Maybe not weld, just polish and a sheet of foil.

There would be nothing to seal the water jackets

Old VW beetle engines don't have any iirc.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gNGjbL13kr-3YH0.html

@@dot7107 That is a Nissan engine, not a Lada engine.

@@dot7107 thats an sr20 not a lada engine it’s nissan

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Most likely timing chain tensioner is on the slack side so most likely they advanced the cam quite a bit. It would be interesting to see them try the same experiment on a flathead motor, so they wouldn't have to deal with cam timing or pushrod length issues

yup. advanced the cam timing.

It affects timing because the chain on the lead side is fixed length and taut. The trailing side is lose against the tensioner. As the head moves up higher the cam gets pulled further forward in relation to the crank. Advancing the timing. Adding gaskets has a reducing effect on compression pressure. More gaskets has less effect. Compression RATIO and compression PRESSURE are related but not the same thing. As shown by any turbo arrangement ever.

yup the timing gets affected also if you grind the head even. so do the gaskets

@@MrLarsgren changing timing, and changing gear ratios, are two totally different things

It wasn't sealing anymore, compression wasn't going down anymore because it couldn't hold any more pressure.

Oh no! I read your comment before I watched, spoilers 😭😭😭

Sorry, but no way could I fix that.

It would be interesting to see the engine on a dyno as they added the gaskets.

It messes up the cam timing, ignition timing too?

I've done that.

Put a big roots blower on such a thing. Toque NOW ! Subtle as a punch in the mouth. Low compression boosted = PT boat, racing boat stuff. (Probably because having a whole lake to cool a 6-71 blown, low compression cast iron V8 is a very very good thing)

@@danielmiller8156 How did it work out for you? It's on my bucket list of 'stupid things to do with a car'!

@@creepingjesus5106 Works great. Did it again on an engine rebuild without a turbine. High compression pistons with a 3/16 spacer plate and it's still running with over 140k miles on the rebuild. Gets better gas mileage than it did before. In need of another rebuild, but the rest of the truck is just too tired. It's time to retire it.

He doesn't need a Dyno. He is a Dyno, lol!

As each gasket is added, the camshaft timing would advance slightly. I suspect it's reluctance to run is more to do with the advanced timing rather than the compression ratio. If they could fit it with a vernier pulley kit they would be able to adjust the timing to suit.

I actually hosed a valve timing retarded by a tooth on an older Camry (the marks are pretty ambiguous, to my mind). Luckily it still cleared, and at least I had the sense to hand rotate it through to before trying to start it. It ran VERY badly, trying to obtain power, but still idled pretty much as normal. I would have to know the gear drive spacing on the belt to determine if the 9 mm is more than a tooth, but from my experience I suspect it is about the same as one, more or less. Also I'd have to incorporate a brain cell or two to think about whether it advances or retards, but since the pulling side is direct gear to gear with the slack taken up on the relaxed side for at least two obvious reasons, I expect it actually advances timing, which could be worse, not sure, never screwed it up on that side, in fact that was the only time I'd done that. If Toyota put the damned marks where they aren't basically BETWEEN the two teeth it wouldn't have happened then. :-/ Here, they could have just moved back a tooth when he approached the next tooth distance, or half that way, but no idea if they did. At least then you'd only be a half tooth off, worst case. Good point.

I would suspect about1 1/2- 2 teeth at the cam :) enough to have a power loss. + ignition timing, + fuel mix..

I bet the house on it. The cam and crank timing have everything to do with why it won't run!!

@@rushunt2131 pushrods are too short now with the higher deck height also

Thank you for correcting me without having to feel all superior, like some idiot above. It WAS funny, though. According to him I know NOTHING about what I was talking about. I told him to hold the timing constant and see if the obvious other parameter change had no effect. LOL I really should have thought of this, obviously a major contributor. Oops. And yes, good point, cam timing too. I can absolutely guarantee it won't run at some compression ratio, as compression directly effects efficiency, and when it falls to near zero (will be zero at some point, fuel will not burn enough to produce much of any cylinder pressure, eventually basically none). Cheers, and thanks for the polite correction.

Why is that? Doesn't the piston travel the same distance? (just less near the top) Isn't the chain a set size, so timing wouldn't change aside from when you decide the valves open (but same frequency -- as piston travel is the same)?

And it would run on just about ANYTHING too

You on to it as well :P

@@twoeightythreez even vodka and orange juice.

@@twoeightythreez so a briggs and Stratton

Going back > 40 years here... I had an old (pre crossflow) 1500cc Ford Kent motor which had VW pistons and was overbored to 1632cc The block was 'tired' (and worn oval) so rather than risking another overbore with already thin cylinder walls, I threw a spare block at it. What I didn't realise at the start was that the new block had been decked quite a bit such that the piston crown was now 0.020 ABOVE the deck causing valve-to-piston clearance issues Instead of mucking around with the (already assembled) short block, I simply threw 2 head gaskets at it and that worked fine. The new 'problem' was that it would blow head gaskets after 50-100 miles! (Not helped by the increased compression ratio than with the old block) I 'cured' that problem by re-torquing the heads multiple times in the first 50 miles as the gaskets slowly 'squished' to their final height (but only AFTER I had blown several head gaskets figuring it out). My 'record' time for a head gasket(s) swap was just under 20 minutes! (The head was removed and refitted with ALL of the intake and extractors still attached. The longest single task was adjusting valve lash!)

Why not, except for the obvious question, how long did it hold up? Also with an aluminum block aluminum head engine you can strip block threads easily. Many engines do that as a matter of course. My current Camry did at 185k. I literally removed the back center bolt with my fingers on disassembly. The two beside it weren't much better, but at least they required a wrench, almost no torque though. A lot of people speculated that the insulation bib back there for the intake manifold is the culprit, but I suspect it is much more the fact that the cooling channels there looked very puny compared to the others and if I remember correctly had a very large we between them. I don't know what percentage of cooling occurs directly off the head/block when aluminum (next to none with cast iron, I expect, my brother, as a thermodynamicist could calculate each case, but he's retired for a reason :-) ). I'm guessing the coolant flow does BY FAR the majority of it. BTW, if this happens to you, a guy named Hahn (I think) makes a FAR superior fix to the stupid timeserts with courser larger threads on the steel insert. The stupid time certs provide a kit to FIX their earlier kit failures...WTH...looked elsewhere when I saw that. Why wouldn't they just fix their current kit by going directly to the larger diameter inserts, OR the obvious, put in courser larger threads? Sometimes I despair for my profession (electrical, though, retired, in my case). So far, so good. Fingers crossed.

They however did just that but merging them in line - both 2- and 3-engine variants xD

@Mike These guys cut a crankshaft then welded it back together.They could cut and weld a crankshaft into a V8 configuration to make it work.Then weld two 4-cyl blocks together.This is Garage-54,nothing is impossible!

@Mike You should have a look at the H1-V8, two 4-cylinder Hayabusa engines combined into a single V8. Although to be fair they made a custom short block to accommodate the 90-degree V setup but its still the closest thing to "combine two 4-cylinder engines into a V8" I've ever seen. Id imagine this might be too much for Garage-54.

Good call

@Mike It can be "U" engine

On the Lada motor the distributor is driven by the oil pump drive, not the cam so spark timing would not be affected.

The engine will get higher compression and at a certain compression ratio it will start knocking by uncontrolled combustion

Won't the pistons hit the valves?

Soren Kuula they could have done that with the diesel to petrol conversion. An experiment to run if they decide to convert another diesel engine.

Liquid nitrogen as engine coolant

Buddy, go watch garage 54 the OG one it's 100% in russian

Yup

@@sb350allday can't picture valve timing change...the cogs have remained the original size?

Or the top.. Sleeve/spacer/displacement options?.. Great stats though. Diesels, opposing pistons Curious too!

No! A good way to lower compression is to use a spacer and 2 gaskets, not 10.

@@petermerkin6428 budget build brah🤣

i guess it's viable when you don't have a decompression plate

55 head gaskets!

No head gasket, sealed with dried-up oatmeal