Very nicely explained, also in Romania the AFDD becomes mandatory from July 12 in residential sleeping spaces This provision must be approved by all EU member states, especially Italy and France 😂

Most AFDD nuisance tripping is mainly due to extension leads and appliances, not the main fixed wiring. The prime reasons are: *1)* Flexes undersized; *2)* Poor quality flex leads; *3)* kinking of flex leads. So, only using _quality_ flexible cables, not cheapo stuff, and that are _big enough_ to take the current, is the prime solution in eliminating nuisance tripping. This is something manufacturers have to bare in mind.

just completed the course. thank you :-)

Is there such a thing as a whole-premises AFDD? Like the whole-premises SPDs? It feels like paying around £150 per circuit feels like a lot, but say £200 for a single one in a board is a much easier sell.

In Canada we call it an AFCI arc fault circuit interrupter

On my recent niceic visit, we discussed these devices, and the inspector said these devices are causing that many problems they are considering taking them out of the regulations.

I had a Hagar AFDD installed on the main socket ring for my flat. To switch on my TV, Sound bar and associated equipment I use a Hue Smart Button to operate three Hue Smart Plugs at the same time. The AFDD trips about 5% of the times we use the Smart Button to turn the TV on. This is a little irritating.

The AFDD regs came in one year ago _mandatory_ for high-rise, care homes, etc. It is not retrospect. *_Sockets-outlets_* *not exceeding 32A.* It says *_"socket-outlets_* _with a rated current not exceeding 32 A"._ Note: Socket-outlet not circuit. A double socket is rated at 20 amp combing the two, a single is 13 amp. So they are both inside the regs'. A single 13A socket can be on a cooker circuit protected by a 40 amp disconnector at the consumer unit (they are on some cooker isolation switches). So this must be on an AFDD, as the _socket-outlet_ is less than 32 amps. In short it is saying that irrespective of the rating of the consumer unit disconnector (MCB, etc), it could be 6A, 16A, 32A, 40A circuits, if a socket is on it rated under 32 A an AFDD *has* to be fitted. This is even if a 15A round pin (they are legal) or 13A square pin socket is fitted. A washing machine radial with one socket supplying the washing machine? An AFDD has to be fitted unless the washing machine is hard wired in. So, a lighting circuit with 5A round pin sockets serving a few table lamps needs an AFDD. The regs *do not* discriminate between lighting or power circuits. The guidance on the _meaning_ of the words in BS7671 (regs) - AFDDs are *recommended,* on *all* circuits with _socket-outlets._ That is in *all* homes. _Recommended_ means _should._ This is they _should_ be fitted unless there is another alternative to arc fault detection.

Hi can you please advise 421.1.7 note I am sure it mentioned buildings with irreplaceable items such as museums require affd is this still the case Many thanks

Any chance you can up the mic output - its really low.

This will be interesting to see how stable this proves in use. ARC protection has been around since😅 the 1990s for overhead 1kV to 33kV medium voltage lines. Stability has been.the main reason that few power utilities have adopted their use.

Are there some examples of the waveforms for the "spark" situations (motor, light switch, etc) that its programmed to ignore. Would be nice to see the difference. I guess it ignores the light switch situation, because its so short, it will ignore because the "arc" or "spark" must be sustained for a time before it trips. And also thats why its programmed to also not react on a load less than 2.5 A. But a drill or hair drier or communotated fan that creates constant sparks/arcs during normal operation, how is that different from a damaged wiring? Is it the rotation of the rotor that creates different arc lengths which will be visible in the signature?

On an EIC what BS EN number are people putting for an AFDD?

good video, audio is low tho?

Clever piece of kit.

Question, what would cause random spikes of over a 1000W for less than 0.1-1 second when no device is in use. and any device that might or would cause it is FULLY unplugged. I have these Rare/random spikes when I read the data of my smart-meter, that randomly happen for less than 1 second. It might just be a FALSE positive from the data that I pull directly from my smartmeter using a Consumer port it has. At least I think its a False positive as when I have a large load on, and I get a spike the total consumption is much higher than the rated Amperage main fuse for my home. I only have solid core wire in my home, so arcs should not be the cause of it. ----- Another question I would have is: Do you have any suggestions for ZIGBEE smart breakers, {I want to use one as a SUB-breaker, that sits behind the main breaker for a group/area} combined with a lower rated non-smart-breaker of 220V/10A This is so I can have a MAIN control for my yard-shed, that I can turn off when I am not present there.

421.1.7 note 2 suggests a non CU placement is acceptable. So..............interesting

These devices will never be effective. The reason is not that there is no good software. Do not hope that the device will be improved over time, and it will become as reliable as circuit breakers. The reason is in the principle of action. The device is tested when sparking on a graphite electrode or through specially charred insulation. There is neither one nor the other in electrical installations. The arc between the metal conductors burns in the same way as the arc in a conventional switch. It is impossible to distinguish these types of sparking by electrical interference. However, any sparking is very easy to notice by identifying the circuit interruption using a conventional differential current device and an additional resistor. The same can be done with a voltage relay installed at the end of the circuit. Plus, I note that the most reliable sign of bad contact is not sparking, but an increase in temperature. With poor contact, most often there is no sparking, and there is heating and fire danger. Therefore, the future belongs to the control of non-electrical indicators. If you are interested, I suggest about 30 films on this topic on my channel.

Another overpriced gimmick. I've seen these tested many times, they do not do what they claim to do. They are creating a false sence of safety, and are a phantom load to the grid. Good luck getting a client to pay for a board full of AFDDs too...

tasp j'ai jamais bricoler electricité ni eau ni meuble ni visse vie