Oh I agree. Sprinkles and fairy dust. You can keep it.

Thanks!

Thanks!

I still ramble..lol. But I try to keep it somewhat on track🤣

Glad you enjoyed it!

That too ...lol

Lol

Donald Youngner I make a dual-lye hot process shave soap. I find it is the best lathering and stands up to a long shave session the best.

He said because he has a business to run

Glad I could help 😁

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You can use different types. I've heard that most trace about the same except for pomace which seems faster.

When you address the superfat, did you blend some more? It to needs to come to trace. That's why it's recommended to add all the base oils at once when doing cold process. You really can't decide too much as to which oils will be your main superfat. Other than that, it could just need more time in the mold before cutting or less water.

Either way would be fine as long as you know how to properly render the lard. Very simple soaps to make 😁

Honestly, it's not worth trying in my opinion. But, I guess if you want to experiment. Grate the soap as finely as you can. Then add a little oil (not sure how much but you might be able to figure out percentage since you know the super day). After adding the oil, turn heat on medium and mix the soap and oil or maybe glycerine. Then check every 5 to 10 minutes and stir gently so you don't create any sure. Once it's all combined well, you'll have to push it into the mold and pack it down. Maybe add some weight on top of it. Now let it rest for a few days and check every so often to see when you can cut it. Once cut, I would let it cure for at least a month after that. I'm not really into rematching because it just never turns out the same.

I like tallow a lot! I would go 75% tallow and 25% coconut oil as a base recipe. Or a 100% tallow would be good too.

Tallow is easy to get if you get the cheap ground beef and strain the fat off yourself. Make a few batches of chili and save the fat. I've done it a few times and it made great soap.

@@wynngwynn thanks. My comment was a while ago. Since then I have been using tallow in my soaps like crazy 🥰

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Super fat is adding extra oil for conditioning to the batch. Water discount is just using a little less water so the soap cures a little faster.

Thanks! That makes sense to me - higher relative lye percentage, faster cure.

Well.. the lye to oil ratio is the same but with less water it hardens sooner and cures faster for sure. 😁

Water discount actually just makes things move faster. Sorry far is just more oil than you need to get soap to a zero sum (safe usage level). In cold process soap, you can't really choose what your support fat oil will be. The lye is still active enough that it's using whatever. So, the end result is that most of the oils in the recipe okay a part in the super far. Bastile just means multiple vegetable oil recipe with the biggest amount bring olive oil. And honestly, the industry standard is that castile is at least 40% olive oil and the rest is other vegetable oils. That's been the commercial standard for years like Mrs Meyers, Dr Bronners, etc

@@unclejonssoap Thanks. Still not made cold process yet, im holding off until i learn more about everything first.

Also.. hot process is pretty much the same way.

Start by using a lye calculator online like soapcalc.net. Keep in mind that they are designed for using sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or a combination. In many places in the world, caustic soda isn't pure or has many fillers in it. So please be cautious using it for soap unless you really trust the source.

Yep. Your soap is superfatted to roughly 7-8%.

@@unclejonssoap Thank you ☺️

That would work but I would definitely add extra glycerin or bring the super fat up to at least 5%. It's still going to be a little harder on hair than synthetic soaps or shampoos.

@@unclejonssoap Thanks for replying! So using only high saponifiable oils/butters is ideal for them huh?

That's been my experience. Although, you can add things to the soap to help. It's going to take some experimentation. Chelators are going to be your friend here.

Yep! It goes by the lye that you add or leave out. So if you plug in 5% SF, the calculator figures that amount of extra oil into the recipe across the board. Of you want to do it manually, you set it at 0% and then add 5% or more of the oil or fat of your choice. Just remember.. if you're doing cold process, you can't choose which oil will be your super fat.. the lye takes what it wants to. Hot process you might be able to steer it some. But, it's not worth the trouble to try in most cases.

@@unclejonssoap thank you so much for the clarification..

I would make it 1000g plus superfat. But it could go either way.

@@unclejonssoap thank you very much for a very quick response.. This clears the air for me.. Have a good one!

My phone only rings when I'm super busy or driving a car.

That depends... Why such a high super fat? What oils did you use for this recipe? Most soaps don't need that high of a super fat. That's usually reserved for a straight coconut oil soap.

the super fat was oilve oil infused with herps I did this as an experiment 🙄 so I was wandering if I can fix it instead of throwing it away 😁😁

I made it for my hair because I have damaged hair so I thought this might help my hair 😇

Unfortunately, excessive super fat can't be fixed. I would go for a 10% super fat at most. I would also not use olive oil for the super fat.. maybe something lighter.

@@unclejonssoap thanks a lot I'm still learning and you've been very helpful

Thanks! You as well!

@@unclejonssoap what do you use when washing your beard? Do you have favorite soap that you use just on your beard?

@@Bullkie I generally use the bath soap we make as well as the beard and hair shampoo that we make. I like to alternate between them. Although, I will say that for me, it's not necessary to use a soap or shampoo more than a couple times a week. I use a stuff brush and the hot water from the shower only most days.

@@unclejonssoap thank you for that insight, i make and use pine tar soap and do wash my beard everyday, thank you for the uploads.

All of them really. In cold process we really have no say in which would are going to be in the super fat number. It's probably a little of each oil. In hot process, you can narrow it down a little by holding your support fat oil until close to the end and then adding it. But even then I wouldn't worry about it.

@@unclejonssoap thanks, just made my first batch. So I'm learning

It can sometimes. Different brands of olive oil aren't always 100% olive oil. There's not always a way to tell unless you get an expensive virgin olive oil in many cases. But, treat even the cheapest olive oil the same when doing your recipe and you should be pretty good with the finished soap.

@@unclejonssoap Thank you!

Been too long to change it now...lol

Lol.. well we're not all chemists. 🤣