Common yard tools as test subjects, lawn mowers, bikes. Thanks for sharing.

I love how you showed any of the shortcomings and being upfront with the wood by Wright paste wax (Ps I love the paste wax it works really well for finishing) , especially since it is your product, thank you for sharing honest content with us. 🙏💪💪 Keep it up buddy 👌👌🙏🙏😎😎❤️

Great test James. Fortunately I don’t have to worry about rust where I live but this was helpful and I plan on picking up a can of STA-BIL Rust Stopper. Thanks.

Awesome testing, James! Thanks a lot! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

Really appreciate your tests. Rust is a concern for all of us. Thanks

Thank you we moved to the coast and my tools are experiencing rust ❤

Thank you, James. Like you, I live in a humid environment, but my shop space and tools are in my garage. I worry about rust all the time. I have used a lot of 3 in 1, WD-40 and wax on my antique saws and planes. Some receive sparse use and I don't know they are rusty until I pull them down to use them. Aaauggh! I'm going to try a can of Stabile soon. :)

This is a great test. I think the only way to improve it is to take the "winners" and repeat the test after rubbing some wood over the surface for awhile and seeing which rust preventers stay on after ware. Thanks for doing the hard work for all of us!

Thanks for this! I don't have major problems with rust, but the product I keep on hand for preventing it has been T-9. I guess I can toss that out if plain old WD-40 is better. A treatment John Heisz recommends is painting on water-based polyurethane and wiping it off while it's still wet.

So great! Always feel more informed after your videos! … I’m also interested in cast iron / outdoor furniture stuff as others commented. And interested in protecting wood outdoor (finishes and paints)

Thanks for the recommendation, as I really suffer with rust on my shed tools.

Love to see it after wiping the steel clean. i.e. like the bottom of a plane, table saw, etc.

Using a salt spray test chamber (diy version instructions can be found online) is what the metal plating shop I used to work for used to determine how effective certain processes were at preventing rust.

I live in a hot humid... swamp. Thanks for the trial. I'm off to buy some Sta-Bil.

In Texas and my shop is does not have AC and it is very humid most of the year...fortunately my table saw is not outside in the rain. I was recently told T9 is great and it works but the wood does not slide as nicely as paste wax. I just put the T9 down and waited for it to dry and then added paste wax on top. I will have to try the Stabil next!

Great video, Thanks!

I would LOVE to see how two old-timey tried and true methods hold up against the competition: A) forced patina (ie. vinegar soak). B) good ol’ mineral oil from the grocery store. Both are 100% non-toxic, won’t cause skin issues, food safe, etc. The patina also leaves absolutely no residue to get on your hands OR the wood.

Impressive. Thank you

Good comparison

Great video. When I first saw it in my feed, I thought it was a Project Farm video. Please test for any problems with wood contact, such as discoloration. Also please test for dust gathering/stickiness.

For in shop application, I use a car wax. I like Mothers Brazilian Carnauba cleaner wax. In my opinion it works very well. I’m sure there is better stuff then car wax. What I really like about car wax is no oily residue.

I am curious how much protection is provided by 3-In-One Oil applied with a Paul Sellers rag-in-a-can oiler.

i have always used the old white candle as a rust inhibitor and to give a good polished finish for metal surfaces. but then i am old and that was basically all we had back then. just rub the candle over the surface and then buff it out. takes a bit of elbow grease, but works great. my biggest problem with rust on tools is generally caused by sweat droplets to be honest.

looks like I'm adding some Stabil Rust stopper to my shopping list

Would love to see how these hold up over time when being handled. I’m also curious about some of the other products people have mentioned here.

Thank you for this video. I'm in central Florida and my shop is so humid. I've been using penetrating oil and it's just very messy. I think I'm going to order some sta-bil.

thanks

Please test cast iron. I am thinking in particular of antique hand planes and plane irons. Also, the blades of antique handsaws. Really appreciate and enjoy your videos, especially your objectivity. Happy New Year! Stay safe!

I foresee a spreadsheet coming! :-)

Now that you have the samples applied, stick it back outside in the rain again and leave it for another two weeks.

I use a product by the name of Corrosion X which comes in several viscosities. It's not cheap but it works. And I live on the Texas coast which I think is where humidity was invented.

I use yamaha silicone engine protectant spray on all my tools. Started using it on all my tools after using it for 25 years on all my outboard engines that run in saltwater and all have not one single spot of rust on any of them. Safe on hoses, rubber, electrical etc. Add that to your testing and you'll see its THE BEST! The wd40 rust protector would be similar but not quite as good. Yamahas patented formula is not wet and greasy after a couple hours of seeping into the metal.

Stabil vs Marine CRC rust inhibitor. Top 2 and also military cosmoline

thank you

In the UK there's a product "Supertrol" from Action Can. It is an aerosol which sits on the metal surface as a light wax, not quite drying out. It's really good for storage protection but too waxy to use on a tool you want to use and handle. Oddly the best thing I found for everyday protection from rust is baby oil! It's a pure mineral oil and ridiculously cheap as an own brand product. Far cheaper than 3 in 1 and very safe to use.

I've been trying Lee Valleys pure tung oil. You have to let it cure to form a longer lasting film. I like to seal with a light coat in all the nooks after a good de-greasing. It films and stays put. I maintain with a home made paste (wax/oil) or just liquid jojoba for contact surfaces where it will wipe off with use anyway. It has also been nice for tool/blade storage. Goes on liquid, but forms a wax like film. I have been using it on tools that touch my hands a lot as it is 100% pure Tung oil and not some (toxic???) mystery. Coconut oil/bees wax/coco butter blend or Fluid film for everything else. I would love to see how the Tung compares. I suspect that neither of these will WIN against Sta-Bil in the rain, but for indoor tools t has been good. A little off topic, I have been using strong home made KOMBUCHA TEA as RUST REMOVER. Just over ferment it in a 5 gal bucket. Way better than vinegar. Haven't tried the commercial stuff yet cause kombucha works pretty well and its so cheap to make.

I put 3 in 1 oil on my bandsaw table....it seems to work well

I think it may also depend a lot on the use case, most tools inside aren't going to have standing water on them. And getting oil on things is its own problem.

Yes, do further testing. In dry climates or dry shops rust prevention is no problem at least if the graying of cast iron is acceptable. Here lubrication is the chief reason for treating ferrous metals. Every ten or so years I buy the latest potion but they all sit barely used in the flammables cabinet. For lubrication wax paper is as good as anything partly because it is so easy to apply and never deposits an excess that could interfere with finishes. Why not see whether it offers significant rust prevention ?

The KZfaq channel Project Farm also did something on this. A very good comparison of you're looking for it

I saw two or three other people mention it already, but another vote for you to try Balistol and 3-in-1.

Best oil stain removers!

Good evaluation of name brand products. However, I live in southeast Florida and all I have to do is look at my tools and they rust and more than that, corrode. Salty, humid air. I love it, my tools don't. I finally got sick and tired of this, so I called up Starrett (sp?). Spoke with one of their techs. He said that their maritime customers recommend using petroleum jelly. Sounded good. So I went to BJs and bought a lifetime supply for $7. Slathered it on. No rust or corrosion. I just have to do it religiously. Unfortunately, some of my really nice tools have already gotten corrosion stains. But, live and learn.

The truth is this is not a good measure of moisture resistance because the rain probably did a lot of damage to each finish as opposed to air moisture... Would be nice to test that

Great test! Would love to see you test CRC-36 next go round. I've had better luck with that than boeshield, but I'm going to give the sta-bil a try and see how it compares.

Please try canola oil, motor oil, and/or clear coat paint

Someday you might try my mutton tallow... classic and my favorite. Thanks for your hard work

I had a look over at what gun owners are using/testing (because firearms see a lot of abrasion and thermal cycling) and they had great results with "Frog Lube" which... is mostly coconut oil (of course not completely, but mostly). I looked at coconut oil (which is more a wax) and it would seem to be have the right qualities (on top of being food safe).

I live in South Texas where the humidity is usually above 50% and temps high,too. I have trouble wit surface rust in the cast iron table of my old(25 years) Delta table saw. any help would be appreciated.

Renaissance wax would be good to try. Museums use it. Might seem expensive but seems to last an age!

How about something of cold oxydation like on weapons if its not mentioned before - cold blue?

Good one! Maybe use the best and the worst as referances on the second video If you make it?

i bought a new chevy colorado zr2 sits in air a little i had it undercoated body wise but im in iowa they use alot of salt i wonder if before winter i can just spray the underneath of my truck all steel which most is painted like frame n shield to help prevent rust looks like sta bil is best

I actually use a Molotow marker pen (empty) with a 15mm tip filled with 3-in-1 oil. And when I'm done with my tools, I just "draw" an even layer over anything that needs protection. Plane bodies, saws, knives, etc. I live not far off the Gulf Coast in Houston so humidity and rust protection is near vital for protecting my tools. I'd recommend giving it a try, it's very similar to Paul Sellers rag in a can, except the motolow pen is a lot finer and imo offers better pinpoint control. Edit: when I'm ready to use the tool again, I just take a shop towel and gently wipe off any excess as to prevent it from staining anything I'm working on

This topic is good on the "surface" but getting the "underlying" issue of moisture would be a good video too 😆 (all that for a joke)

If you going to do a second test I would recommend you pick up some CRC 3-36 it is some pretty great stuff. My jointer was by the garage door one day and got some rain on it and I just left it because I was curious how well it would keep the cast iron from rusting and there wasn't a spot of rust on the jointer when the water was gone the next day.

Anything that inhibits rust is a winner ...stay with it...

It would be nice to se how regular vegetable oil did,

I've heard that fluid film is pretty amazing at rust prevention given that it's lanolin based. But then this means you also need to test if rubbing wood against the treated metal will effect how the wood absorbs finish. It doesn't matter if a product keeps my planes looking shiny and new if they also impart something onto the wood that ruins a finish.

T-9 is expensive snake oil. I can’t understand why people think it works.

Does STA-BIL rival Fluid Film? In Northern, Ontario Canada this is most popular product during the winter.

I bought some jojoba oil at the recommendation of a tool manufacturer. I don’t like that it gets sticky. I would like to know if it gives good protection.

Do you have a steam box for wood bending? That might be a great way to test without needing to leave the steel outside. After all, it never rains in my shop 😉

Camelia oil is often recommended to protect knife blades from corrosion. It's not very expensive and perfectly natural. Please add it to your tests.

Good morning!

Test idea: apply water gently with a water sprayer so large and heavy rain drops do not interfere with delicate protection film (i think t-9 and the elixir look a bit like they were washed away by the rain)

I have used veggie oil for initial clean and restoration of iron and tools. I would love to see how kitchen oils would hold up.

Which of the aerosol cans, except the WD-40, has least greasy feeling?

You really should try corrosion x - we use it on our outboard engines in the saltwater of Gulf down in Texas - I use it on my planes in the hot humid texas environment-

I’ve got both CRC 3-36 and CRC 3045

Awesome video how can I apply the Sta bil to remove some rust and protect my power cage it has some rust on the rails and bolts

Evaluation with prices would have been cool

What about 3&1 oil?

Good morning people!

Definitely do another test, but, since no one does, or should leave their tools out in the rain, the test should just allow for natural humidity to do its thing, so perhaps leaving the test subject outdoors for perhaps a month, but under an open cover where rain can not get to it.

Would like to see 3 in 1, blo, shop made paste wax/hard wax options.

Would you use any of this (specifically Sta-Bil) on a tool surface that's going to be coming into contact with unfinished wood? Table saw, jointer, hand plane, etc. My equipment is in a well maintained environment, so wax is good enough, I'm just curious. I may put some on the anvil that lives outside (just likely not the face).

I'd like to see 3-in-1 oil and Houdini Lock Lubricant.

What about cast iron?

I use camellia oil. Seems to work well at rust prevention and lubrication for hand planes. It is non-toxic, used in cosmetics, doesnt irritate skin,and doesn't contain petroleum based chemicals.

Do you have any plans on making a rest removal video?

James, I think you want to test ductile cast iron, not " ductile steel". And testing grey cast iron, of which most old Stanley's are made, would be very helpful. Also, testing in 90% humidity, non-condensing, environment would be more realistic. You may be able to borrow, or rent, a small chamber. Finally, I'd love to see how jojoba oil holds up.

Would you put Stabil on your table saw top?

Fluid Film, wool wax formula. powerful rust and corrosion protection. just bought it. smell weird and i wonder how it would compete.

If I used Sta-bil on my tools, would the oil residue rubbing off onto the wood end up interfering with finishing?

Try camellia oil. It has centuries of use with Japanese swords etc and i use it on all my tools, planes and chisels.

try Balistol

Prediction at the beginning: the mystery product is BLO. Edit: Aw, nuts.

I prefer paint, if not then WD 40. That's just my opinion, I rust my case.

Whiskys & rum!

Try CRC3-36 in the next test.

Why are most of your bench planes blue ?

I only have a few planes so it wouldn't be a good sample size for testing, "glances back at a wall covered in planes"

Enjoyed the video James. Check out Highland Woodworkers new videos on rust removal and prevention. I know they are pushing products they sale. I appreciate your experiment and the time you put into producing the video. Ya'll l take care and God bless.

What, no 3-in-1!? The T-9 doesn't surprise me. I'm in the south and my garage doesn't have any climate control so is around 80% humidity and surface of the sun all the time. T-9 was a huge disappointment. Right now I'm using 3-in-1 for frequently used items and thing I don't use often, like the #7, I buff on a harder paste wax I make. Seems to be working well so far. I would also be curious how a car wax would work. Both a cheaper one like Turtle and one of the fancier ones.

Except for the paste wax, all of these products appear to leave some type of oily residue. This could be a problem if used on tools that will be in contact with wood and could transfer the oil into the wood. Perhaps a test using dry lubes and similar products would be interesting.

I live in a salty environment. If you send me your bridge city planes and a selection of your best chisels and maybe that pedal powered lathe I can test all of them for their ability to withstand rust. If you don't hear from me again after I receive the tools, please don't be concerned, it's probably just you imagining the worst. You can totally trust me. Although it does help if you pay for the shipping.

James, why are you recommending the worst product in the test to buy? After it was tested and seeing the results, it was one of the worst if not the worst and then you recommend it and say that it stood up really well and that it was not as bad as some of the others? Sorry but I don't get it.