Awesome. Thanks for the support. The older stuff is the perfect platform to make something like that. I’m excited to build the yj and see yours!

Tha is for the support. More coming!

100%. They will absolutely handle more than people give them credit for. I have said it in a bunch of videos (maybe this one too, I just can’t remember). But the thing is…you are just about maxing them out with that tire size and have still broken gears. That wouldn’t have happened with the d60. Not that people don’t sometimes break those too. But a 5.13 will break easier than her 4.56. The 5.13 only has one tooth of contact between the ring and pinion. The 4.56 had 2. So you now have the same stress in the rig with a SMALLER and even weaker contact patch on that 44. ESPECIALLY on a D30. But rear axles also take more abuse and depending on how the gears were set up….just a lot of variables. But back to your point…the Dana 30 isn’t weak depending on vehicle weight and tire size. But building it out is usually silly. Because you’ll never change tue ring and pinion size. Sure the housing is a bit stronger…but the ring and pinion is the big weak point. So putting the cash into it when you could save it for a D44 or something larger just makes sense in most cases. Have fun out there!

Sounds like you are doing it right. The Jk D30 isn’t a weak axle. But like you said, it has its limits. The increase in reliability when you go to a larger axle is HUGE. I have a jk Dana 30 sitting under my bench that will eventually go in something. Time will tell.

Manual in a way is better. Getting the trans to shift right with an automatic after changing the gear ratios and tire size can be a little challenging. And even after you get it to tune “correctly” it still isn’t like it was stock. Manual trans would make that easier for sure.

Great questions! I think a Dana 30 would be fine for your uses. However, depending on the terrain and how slick or muddy it is, a rubicon would be hood with lockers.

Well, you definitely aren’t screwed. But, it’s a bit of work to do the seal. On a front axle the seal is actually pressed into the housing near the diff. So the carrier with the ring gear has to come out. The old seal removed and a new one pressed in using a special tool made for inner axle seals. If you aren’t comfortable doing that just bring it to a shop. You definitely don’t want to put it off too long. It will get worse over time and if fluid is getting out…water will get in. And water in the diff will wear out the bearings and stuff pretty quick. Keep it full until you can have it changed out. The part isn’t expensive. And you might as well have both sides swapped because the labor is already done.

Hey! I’m sorry I didn’t see this until now! The gear ratio on a Dana 60 will vary depending on how the truck it came out of was built. Usually it won’t be stealer than a 4.10. And often times it’s more a 3.73 or a 3.55. Those gears are VERY similar to a stock jeep axle. So you really can’t get away with not doing gears when you swap.

For sure! Everything has its limits. The limits are just higher with a D60 and a D44.

So it’s just an aluminum drag link with a drag link flip kit. Tbh, I don’t remember the brand. Ut if I had to recommend one, I’d do one by Alex steering.

@WarPaintOffroad tha ks for the info. I had been looking for a high mount kit cause i know it made a huge difference in on road driving in my TJ

GREAT question. The 99-04 has leaf spring perches, and 30 spline putter axles shafts (arb shafts). The 05+ has 35 spline inners and outters as well as larger brakes and hub bearings. It also is set up for a spring and has a “control arm” bracket that is tougher to remove. But…be warned, they changed the pinion design after 2016. So if you get one that is too new, you won’t be able to get the big gears we need. The aftermarket companies market their trusses and such for 05+…because the housing is virtually the same. But you won’t be able to get gears. So don’t go too new.

@@WarPaintOffroad I have a good deal on a 99-04 . I would like to put on an XJ. I will have to put a truss on it to fit so all stick bracket will have to go. Sound like th only real differences are the spline count and out bearing size? I don’t think that should be a problem because I would go any bigger than 37s. Cant afford 40s

Well…I did say it was a beginner guide. And I did talk about truss, gussets, sleeves. And running 40’s with that, I also said you’ll break things. And you’ll wear things sooner. I covered all this. I also said that people run them with 40’s and you are exactly the type of person I was referring to. You “can”. Should you? Absolutely not. And a properly built Dana 60 front axle won’t cost 5k if you do it yourself. I was able to build a Dana 60 front and a 14 bolt rear for not a ton more than that 5k you are spending on a weaker axle. If you can’t afford to run a Dana 60, then you can’t afford to run a “built” dana 44 on 40’s and afford the repairs when you break it and prematurely wear parts.

But the fact that you think a set of one tons cost 25-30k show how you don’t have any idea.

Well, I don't want to start an argument with you, as I on a general basis agree with you. BUT, you saying that I'm clueless, and that if I can't afford a D60, then I can't afford to run a built D44 and still afford repairs is NOT a good way for me to not want to start one. I'll try and take the high road and leave it at... I'm no keyboard warrior, nor am I clueless, nor am I broke. Quite the opposite on all 3 points actually. I'll leave you with something to think about. 40s.... They are big and they are heavy tires no doubt BUT think of the added weight of the D60/14bolt axles, Cs, ring/pinon etc. How much added weight over a D44 do you think those add to the overall weight of the vehicle? Lets just conseratively say that both front and rear D60/14 bolt with brakes, axles, lockers ... everything adds approximately 500 lbs to the overall weight of your Jeep. Now, as far as axles are concerned, where are the weight bearing members of the weight of the vehicle? I'll answer it for you, the axle tubes, but lets just generalize by saying that axle housing. So, as far as axles are concerned, where/what are the torque carrying members of concern with 40s? The ring/pinon and the axle shafts and Ujoints etc, right? So, when all you are doing is "running 40s" what difference does the strength of the axle housing have to do with anything? I'll answer if for you. VERY LITTLE. You can truss and gusset and run sleeves, but that's not necessary FOR THE TIRES, that's necessary to add strength to the housing. That additional strength then makes it so that the Jeep can bounce and hit obstacles harder and not bend the tubes etc. But it has absolutely nothing to do with 40s. Where you need the strength for the 40s is in the axle shafts and the Ujoints, ring/pinon and brakes etc. The rotating assembly if you will. You can beef up a D44 with 35spline axle shafts (same diameter as the D60) and even larger carriers and ring/pinions etc, as well as larger brakes. All with very insignificant changes to the overall weight of the vehicle. Then of course you can truss/gusset the D44 and the Cs for added strength to the housing So the end result is.... an axle assembly that is as strong as a junkyard D60 and weighs 5-600lbs less. That 5-600lbs of additional vehicle weight is significant. It adds to the strength NEEDED for the axle housing, and the brakes etc. It also very negatively affects the handling and the performance of the vehicle as well. So yeah, I stand by my original statement. A built D44 is hard to beat on a Jeep.