Great video! Gave me some food for thought for an upcoming trailer purchase. TY

Spray the wood floors with diesel every 3 months and you will never replace a floor due to rot. Also the wood will become so hard after a while you won't be worried as much about anything falling through the floor. This is how we treat the wood on flat bed semi trailers.

good info for a rookie looking into trailers. good job..

Bullitt: I watched this video several times. I haven't purchased a trailer yet b/c dealership is 6 miles away and they'd drive over to pick it up for free. Now they charge $50. Still not a problem with that since I'v only taken it in 3 times over last 12 years. I like recommendation to pay a few extra bucks for a 10K pound GW car trailer which is built to last. Thanks for sharing.

Hey there, I have a 6x12 single 7000 lbs axle tilt and load trailer that I use to haul my BX2380. It has 16 inch tires and brakes and stake pockets through out.

Regarding the ones with a ramp/gate, all those I've seen are removable, so you CAN haul an over-length load by taking the ramp off and loading it in the trailer, maybe along a side rail. "Equipment" trailers with ramps can also sometimes be configured for too-long loads. I have found wood decks to be about as slick as steel when wet, AND they rot, even when well-treated. Most of them sit out in the weather all the time. I have a trailer with a steel deck that's never needed any work, while my wood-decked one about the same age is ready for its third deck. Maybe steel with some traction-enhancing surface would be best. I don't like the last style car-hauler type for tractors, because the fenders are extremely vulnerable to damage from tractor implements. I use the equipment-style (not shown here) with a wide deck over the wheels (no fenders) and no rail, but with stake pockets where I can build a wooden fence anytime I need a rail for containment, but I don't tie down to the rail.

You provide some good information but I’d be careful not to generalize based on the 3 options you have. There are many options on trailers like 3500, 5200, 6000, and 7000 lb axles. Pipe and tube rails are much stronger than angle rails. Treat the wood or oil it regularly and it won’t rot. There’s also goosenecks I would say fit the trailer to you’re specific need. Farmers and ranchers don’t have much need for car trailers but they have a need for top rails to haul tractors and then hay.

Thanks so much for this.

Im glad i watched this before biting the bullet and getting this trailer i wanted today. Now i know the few things i can delete off my list and ill save some money.

I have a 16ft landscape trailer for my compact tractor , it has brakes and was built for hauling skidsteer .. I have a 22ft deck over for hauling vehicles ..

Thanks!

I'm getting ready to buy a john deere b. I was looking at a 7K trailer..., your video suggests 10k. My other tractor is a 1025r. What do you suggest?

It all depends on how big the tractor is,the farm I hauled for use tractors from 80 hp up to 200 hp +.

I need to haul UTV and tractor. Problem is tractor weighs 2335lb so it appears single axle is out. Don't like going to dual axle more cost and they don't handle as well backing up as single axle. Anyone using a single axle that can handle 2400lbs for tractor hauling?

I am a bit of a weird feller and would rather build a trailer than buy one. I want a dovetail for hauling cars, perhaps even my tractor from time to time, the issue is, that when i go to get a car, it's usually in a hard spot to get to. i.e. the trailer bottoms out. Now a little tug, a little hug to the left, and a "hold my beer" moment makes that a non issue, but the ramps would probably get ripped off if i put them under the dovetail.

Although this information is sound it in some cases overkill. I for years made a living with trailers. In alot of cases spending an extra $3,000 for a trailer is just burning money. Same as saying you need a big equipment trailer with brakes to haul a small tractor that weighs less than 3,000 # . A 12ft landscape trailer is perfect for your sub compact a massy Ferguson GC Series with loader and back hoe comes in under #3,000. Most trucks and SUV'S can tow this without brakes if properly loaded. I will say any tractor that goes over 3,000# you should by all mean go to tandem axels with at least 1 axle with brakes. Spending extra money for what you dont need isnt being smart. I pulled loads grossing 22,000# regularly with a triaxel carhauler and a half ton 4x4 pickup. Moved dozers and tractors hauled logs pretty much everything. I currently have a 12ft utility and i haul 3,000# of gravel for driveways with no trouble at all with Ford Explorer granted the Explorer does have a tow package that makes it a bit more stable. But dont be fooled it can be done safely without a fortune in overkill.

Partner not sure your title about "hauling tractor" is accurate. Good tutorial but I am not transporting cars....only tractors.

I mean If your going to haul a 4430 John deere you need a tandem axle with duals.

car hauler allmost just like equipment trailer " BECAUSE " load up easy / great for hauling all kind of compact or mini / plus + if u was loading when fork lift easy to load lumber on car hauler " ONLY DIFFERANT IS / HOW MUCH WEIGHT BE ON CAR HAULER OR EQUIPMENT TRAILERS " ALL OF MY CAR HAULER TANDEM 7500 LB TO 18,000 LBS OR TREAT WOOD DECKING / " BECAUSE STEEL DECKING WILL MADE EVERY THING " SLIDER " IN THE COLD WEATHER OR WET WEATHER ! . I BUILD MY TRAILER OUT OF ANGLE IRON ALOT STRONG THAN SQUARE TUBE / SQUARE TUBE WILL FREEZE AND BUST WIDE OPEN / IF THE WATER GET INSIDE THE WELD EVERY TIME ? EXAMPLE : LOADER TRACTOR > TRAILER NEED TO BE BETWEEN 22 FT OR 24 FT / DEPEND ON WHAT SIZE OF LOADER TRACTORS U HAVE TOO ? .

How long what the hauling trailer ?

Sure wish you could manage to rub shit against the mic during the vid. Pleasant.