What Makes a Gown Haute Couture (like House of Worth) in the Victorian and Edwardian Eras?

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Abby Cox

Abby Cox

Күн бұрын

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So many of us in dress history and the fashion world hold up haute couture design houses as beacons of design and technical construction, and while that might be the case today (I mean, who doesn't obsess over those Dior couture timelapse videos?) Was the label "haute couture" that significant in the late Victorian and Edwardian eras when it comes to construction or even design?
Since I'm working on completing my Edwardian evening gown (actually, I think the bodice video will be out next week!) I wanted to explore what seems to be Victorian couture sewing techniques by looking at and comparing some original bodices in my personal collection. Since I don't have anything from the House of Worth, we have to use hi-res images of Worth bodices (www.thejohnbrightcollection.co...) and a bunch at www.antique-gown.com/en/ to identify and break down some trends and then use those to compare to the different designer pieces I own. What will we find? What are the differences and similarities in construction between haute couture and a local dressmaker (or high-end department store?)
I think what we will discover is that couture sewing techniques of the Victorian and Edwardian eras are much more relatable and achievable than what we might expect...
Hello Vintage: hellovintage.com/
More Victorian and Edwardian Couture Fun:
Fox Bodice Unboxing: • Victorian Haute Coutur...
Titanic Era French Couture Unboxing: • I Bought a Titanic Era...
Josephine Pomeroy-Herrick's Riding Habit: • Unboxing a Victorian L...
‪@NicoleRudolph‬ 's video on shattered silk: • Did Silk Spontaenously...
00:00 - 4:35 - Who is the Daddy of Haute Coutre & What is Haute Couture?
04:36 - 7:40 - Looking at Worth Bodices online to understand their construction
07:41 - 13:49 - Fox sisters bodices and other 1890s/1900s bodices comparisons
13:50 - 14:00 - Out-of-tune Unpopular Opinion Time
14:01 - 14:17 - That Don't Impress me Much
14:18 - 22:37 - Austrian couture bodices from 1889
22:38 - 24:54 - Outro & Bloopers
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Пікірлер: 536
@AbbyCox
@AbbyCox 2 жыл бұрын
Since I am *garbage* at explaining sprung boning, here's the link to Butterick's instructions on sprung boning in their book, "The Dressmaker" (which features instructions on these silk bodice linings, etc.) archive.org/details/dressmaker01butt/page/90/mode/2up
@BrokenMonocle
@BrokenMonocle 2 жыл бұрын
I sense a future video
@piavazellejerome4538
@piavazellejerome4538 2 жыл бұрын
now on twitter
@emmareisenberg8107
@emmareisenberg8107 2 жыл бұрын
I am loving all the "Yes Daddy"s in this lol
@holzlastname1976
@holzlastname1976 2 жыл бұрын
Much thanks! I hadn't heard about that concept at all
@kimlopezinstructor2024
@kimlopezinstructor2024 2 жыл бұрын
I, too, had paused the video and was googling "Sprung boning"! I'm so glad you 'splained it later! LOL Also- love the link.
@vivlings
@vivlings 2 жыл бұрын
Okay so I just finished a Master's research thesis and one of the subjects I had to tackle was the French fashion economy under the German Occupation (1940-1944). Basically, if you're wondering WHY TF did the French decide to define what was haute couture and what wasn't randomly in 1945, it's because during the Occupation the amount of material available to sew was absolutely ridiculous. Even sewing needles and sewing thread were rationed ; there wasn't a Utility clothing system like the Brits had established. Why? Simply because about 90% of the textile produced was given to the Germans, who had a strong power over everything happening in France. They even envisioned to move haute couture (yes, "move" haute couture like how do you do that but anyways) to Vienna or Berlin, since they envied French savoir-faire and the fact that Fashion was one of the last things French people prided themselves in and found a sense of identity in. So how does one make haute-couture work in a time when you can basically only get your hands on tulle and cheap-ass-quality synthetic fabrics? You first define what is couture and what isn't, so that you can pinpoint which houses get first dibs on the best fabrics. That battle was led by Lucien Lelong (the couturier), who was at the head of the *Chambre Syndicale de la Couture* and was put in charge of defending the Fashion economy's best interests. He did a hell of an amazing job and managed to tweak the rules so much that at some point (in 43 I think) several dozens of houses benefited from extra material, whereas less than a dozen were agreed upon (by the Nazi regime) in 1940. But the chosen couturiers had to ensure that some almost-lost trades (i.e Chantilly lace-making) were featured in their collections at a certain percentage. When the war was over, the French decided upon a *final* definition of what couture is, according to their own terms, and it kind of still holds. For anyone interested in learning more, there's a source written in French by Dominique Veillon called La Mode sous l'Occupation... You might be able to find it in English, fingers crossed! That was my nerdy moment, thank you to anyone who read that 🌷
@phoenixmassey
@phoenixmassey 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for sharing this!
@alixv8256
@alixv8256 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for taking the time to share this bit of history!
@rdb4996
@rdb4996 2 жыл бұрын
That is such a lovely tid bit of info to give more flavour to Abby's video. Also, super cool you researched this!
@KoriEmerson
@KoriEmerson 2 жыл бұрын
I’m WW2 geek along with fashion history so I loved your comment. I’d LOVE to read this section of your paper. What was your overall thesis?
@amandak540
@amandak540 2 жыл бұрын
Love your insight about this!
@frang4613
@frang4613 2 жыл бұрын
Could Worth’s commitment to the back-closing bodice been a way of subtlety saying, “I’m so high end, I only make clothes for women with lady’s maids”? Kind of a sweet marketing ploy…
@LucianCorrvinus
@LucianCorrvinus 2 жыл бұрын
In Japan the way the large dash is tied, bound on the front as opposed to the back, was a visual cue as to the status of the womanerstong it. This is how in past times one could tell of the Roman was a orostorite who knotted it on front ad the thought was she dressed herself as opposed to Geosha who have a historical class of men who would come to dress them every evening and still do. They would knot it behind them. So there is some validity in what you day. The way we lay out the buttons still is from the thinking men would dress themselves making men button thier clothing thier right to left. Women needed assistance and thus button from OUR right to left, as we look at them....
@seanathanbeanathan
@seanathanbeanathan Жыл бұрын
@@LucianCorrvinus I'm a bit confused on what you mean. Are you saying, historically, Japanese women tied their obi depending on class- so if her obi was in front she dressed herself (and was therefore not wealthy)?
@seanathanbeanathan
@seanathanbeanathan Жыл бұрын
@@LucianCorrvinus I'm a bit confused on what you mean. Are you saying, historically, Japanese women tied their obi depending on class- so if her obi was in front she dressed herself (and was therefore not wealthy)?
@rivitraven
@rivitraven 9 ай бұрын
That's only part of it, but the design is not just for fashion or how to get it in but also how it's worn and how the garment affects your body. This is especially true of corsets because front pacing corsets can create unsightly folds in the front of your skin and squishes the fat towards the front. Not only that but one can get into a corset without any assistance.
@KawaiiStars
@KawaiiStars 8 ай бұрын
​@@seanathanbeanathanif it was at the front it could also mean she's a sex worker
@redblaquegolden
@redblaquegolden 2 жыл бұрын
The Sarcastic "labels mean everything" early on (or at least I read that as sarcasm) is so important to point out. Honestly, I enjoy couture. But I also have an innate disdain for bourgeois shit that serves only to seperate people by "designer brand owner" and "impoverished trashy.' It drives me absolutely batty. -sigh- but also, I am a designer and I like pretty things that are custom for me. XD
@AbbyCox
@AbbyCox 2 жыл бұрын
There's a consignment shop here in Reno that sells 90% designer labels (both vintage and modern) and I was shocked by how poor quality some of the makes were with *big* designer names. I've bought stuff from H&M that was better fabric and construction quality, so yeah, as much as I enjoy fashion, I grow more and more distrustful of labels. (And yeah, that was mild sarcasm dripping out, I was also trying to think of the memes about "Sparkling Anxiety" or whatever that have been all over social media since 2020 🤣)
@lenabreijer1311
@lenabreijer1311 2 жыл бұрын
I spent years installing computer systems in garment companies. The same factory that make designer label clothing makes your Walmart junk. The difference is mostly the fabrics used and the patterns used. The same people sew both.
@rdb4996
@rdb4996 2 жыл бұрын
@@lenabreijer1311 I think that happens with a lot of brands. It is a way to keep the luxury branch afloat. Thank you for letting us know this is also the case in couture!
@devh6168
@devh6168 2 жыл бұрын
I cook much more than I sew, but I feel like there's a similar thing going on - given the similar ingredients, you too can replicate 'chef quality' meals because it's just knowing the steps and process - chopping is chopping and roasting is roasting. There may be some fancy flourishes here and there like 24k gold or a special cutting technique, but it's most like not going to detract from the overall deliciousness of the dish...
@somethingclever8916
@somethingclever8916 2 жыл бұрын
@@lenabreijer1311 fabrics and marketing. I sew draoes. My employers can charge $1000 because they have access to branding and connections. The ones I male (identical) I get a fraction. Its the branding and high marketing and stupid rich people who are gullible AF to stupid enough to drop $100k on $20 purse!
@Liutgard
@Liutgard 2 жыл бұрын
Silk gauze is a pain. I made both of my daughters' wedding dresses, and my oldest daughter's dress had layers of successively lighter silk. The top layer was so filmy, it was like sewing fog. Looked great, but the air in my studio was blue for weeks.
@nelliebly6616
@nelliebly6616 Жыл бұрын
Sewing fog😆🙄😒What a great way of explaining💕
@k_golly_g
@k_golly_g 2 жыл бұрын
Ok, ok, ok this is really interesting but I think you got a musical hit on your hands with Worth is the Same. We need to get you into a studio stat!
@AbbyCox
@AbbyCox 2 жыл бұрын
🤣🤣🤣 this song lives in my head rent free and I just added my own shitty lyrics to it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gK-ljLSQmbrHiJs.html
@kmbehrens14
@kmbehrens14 2 жыл бұрын
I’m here for any and all shade cast at historical people; bonus points for singing.
@nidomhnail2849
@nidomhnail2849 2 жыл бұрын
The rules for a Paris Couture workshop validate your statement that Paris Couture is not that unique. If it was unique, there would be no need to have rules. The rules bother me because it means that a new designer cannot set up a shop in Paris unless they can employ 15-20 people. A new designer would need to set up shop elsewhere or go to work for Worth.
@somethingclever8916
@somethingclever8916 2 жыл бұрын
It more means one has a rich clientele
@castoputa
@castoputa 2 жыл бұрын
And it was a law to protect labour, but who cares about knowledge when opinion is being given.
@salima1777
@salima1777 2 жыл бұрын
Nope they couldn't even set shop elsewhere, those rules aply to France as a whole, it's gatekeeping at it's finest
@somethingclever8916
@somethingclever8916 2 жыл бұрын
Fashion labels are usually by the rich for the rich. How many new york designers are the daughter of a celebrity. Its called gatekeeping
@emilyreames7748
@emilyreames7748 2 жыл бұрын
if worth was the father of couture, and those who can't afford their own employees had to go work for him and possibly be creative influences... smart man. evil smart man
@kathleenhaas6057
@kathleenhaas6057 2 жыл бұрын
When I was a little kid fascinated by the dresses in museums they seemed unattainable and almost magical. I always felt like the inside had to have been finished as perfectly as the outside. I love that, thanks to the internet, I can see that there are still similarities to interior finishing (unless we start looking at modern store-bought stuff because I tend to feel like so many corners are cut on some things)
@dawnelder9046
@dawnelder9046 2 жыл бұрын
Back in the early 80s I was walking past some of the high end clothing stores. A plaid jacket was on sale for 300 dollars in one window. That was a lot of money back then. The plaids did not even match. The button holes were machine, and not neat looking. The buttons looked like they were machine sewn as well. Half hanging. Now if the designers name is on it, that is all anyone cares. Quality means nothing. I have a skirt from 1972, which cost 45 dollars. A lot at that time. Very well made, worn a lot and still in perfect condition. Lined.
@kathleenhaas6057
@kathleenhaas6057 2 жыл бұрын
@@dawnelder9046 I didn't understand why my mom's made stuff pattern match in the 80s when the store bought stuff didn't. I also swore I would never sew my own stuff, but now love when I can perfectly line up my fabric.
@berlineczka
@berlineczka 2 жыл бұрын
Prosecco is also a regionally protected name, just like champagne is :) Prosecco only comes from Conegliano and Valdobbiadene regions in north-east of Italy.
@nickbanale
@nickbanale 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for specifying it, I live near Valdobbiadene and I almost had a teeny tiny stroke 😊
@katherinemorelle7115
@katherinemorelle7115 2 жыл бұрын
I get the point of regionally protected names, to protect where something originated. But I do much prefer Australian wines, including the sparkling wines. It’s the Fox to Italy and France’s Worths. I said it, and I stand by it.
@alisav8394
@alisav8394 2 жыл бұрын
Fun fact: Prosecco is now preventing Prošek from Croatia (red, non-sparkling, traditional, dessert wine) from becoming a regionally protected name.
@marahdolores8930
@marahdolores8930 Жыл бұрын
Lol, I think she meant "Cold Duck", not Prosecco for the more generic (cheaper) versions of bubbly wine.
@tweetthang96
@tweetthang96 2 жыл бұрын
Ohhhh I needed that "It's absolutely achievable by a regular person" note about Victorian/Edwardian couture. This was a great video! I like Worth gowns there are some gorgeous ones, but as you said, Worth is the same lol. Marketing is everything
@somethingclever8916
@somethingclever8916 2 жыл бұрын
He reinvented the apparel retail experience. The idea of high end fashion design just didn't exist prior this
@Alex-Sews
@Alex-Sews 2 жыл бұрын
Worth is all the same for the sole purpose of being able to churn out Fashion (TM). Excellent business strategy, not that creative, would rather support local makers - I say, as if I'm currently in the market for a ball gown...
@Chompchompyerded
@Chompchompyerded 2 жыл бұрын
...but you might be in the market for a really nice English cut suit! Not a woman alive who doesn't like a well dressed man. Just a guess, but I would think that there are also a few men out there who like a well dressed man too, if that's your thing.
@Alex-Sews
@Alex-Sews 2 жыл бұрын
@@Chompchompyerded My goal is to someday make my own suit!
@Chompchompyerded
@Chompchompyerded 2 жыл бұрын
@@Alex-Sews Oh wow! That's super! I imagine that will be quite a challenge. Are you going to go with a relaxed cut, more like an Italian style suit, or more of a fitted cut like an English style suit?
@Alex-Sews
@Alex-Sews 2 жыл бұрын
@@Chompchompyerded More a 19th century style! 😁
@Chompchompyerded
@Chompchompyerded 2 жыл бұрын
@@Alex-Sews Super cool! I'd love to see it when it's done! Which part of the 18th century? They didn't change as much as women's fashions changed, but they did change, and particularly the neck ware changed. Maybe after that you can try to rock the 18th century. Would be really wonderful to see those ornate and handsome waistcoats come back. You would probably want to give the powders a miss though. Powders were pretty much done by the 19th century, so that would not be an issue. Not many men were wearing beards in the 18th century, but they certainly were in the 19th.
@Jasmine-in-my-mind
@Jasmine-in-my-mind 2 жыл бұрын
When I started sewing in the 1990s, I loved hand-sewing. But the trend back then was speed-sewing. The only readily-available books on hand-sewing were about 20th century haute couture techniques. So I got deep into the couture method with all of its perfectionist ways. I am so glad to be learning now about historical sewing that happened outside of the modern home-ec and couture schools.
@maximilian6829
@maximilian6829 2 жыл бұрын
Can you share some of the names of these books?
@Jasmine-in-my-mind
@Jasmine-in-my-mind 2 жыл бұрын
@@maximilian6829 Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Shaeffer was the main one-- I read it from cover to cover. Shaeffer later wrote other books on couture techniques as well. They are easily found on Amazon if you search by her name. There was another one by Roberta Carr, and an older one from the 1970's for which unfortunately I can't remember the author or title. Shaeffer also designed some patterns for Vogue that included special instructions for couture-style construction. I think some of them are still in print. I haven't used them but I've heard that they basically apply the techniques described in her books. Susan Khalje wrote a book called Bridal Sewing. I don't own it and haven't read it, but I believe she used that book as a way to teach couture gown techniques. I have another one of her books called Linen and Cotton which isn't a couture book but it does include some hand-sewing techniques. Susan Khalje also taught a Craftsy class that took you step-by-step through the process of construction a simple shift dress using couture techniques. I don't know if it's still available on the Craftsy site, but I found it very informative.
@feeline1120
@feeline1120 2 жыл бұрын
@@maximilian6829 Thank you that is really interesting!
@maximilian6829
@maximilian6829 2 жыл бұрын
@@Jasmine-in-my-mind Thank you
@itssteph263
@itssteph263 2 жыл бұрын
21:07 "nobody's gonna to know" "they're gonna know" "how will they know?"
@TheAleTre
@TheAleTre 2 жыл бұрын
Listening to Abby passionately educating us about late-Victorian/Edwardian bodices brings me joy. Thank you Abby😁 I’ll say it once and I’ll say it again: This community of passionate historical costumers are like cozy quilts and a warm mug of hot chocolate- pure joy and comfort.
@miehiep1977
@miehiep1977 2 жыл бұрын
For me too! So so much comfort! I have a statistics exam tomorrow and this helped me calm down so so much😭😭😭
@categ6394
@categ6394 2 жыл бұрын
Fun fact...in knitting 'handknit' includes knitwear produced on a knitting machine if said machine is worked by hand (not an automated)
@michellecornum5856
@michellecornum5856 2 жыл бұрын
Now THAT little fact made my jaw hit the floor.
@lenabreijer1311
@lenabreijer1311 2 жыл бұрын
I was also shocked when I learned that. I have used a knitting machine, the craft is quite different from hand knitting. It requires a lot of pre planning and skill in that aspect because the thing on the needles looks nothing like what you think it should. This is the reason I don't use a knitting machine anymore. It was great making things for the kiddo quick and effective because it was basically rectangles.
@katerooney2874
@katerooney2874 2 жыл бұрын
@@lenabreijer1311 I explored using a machine for a few seconds when Threads magazine put out an article (1980s?) talking about a programmable machine that knit pieces ready to assemble rather than cloth to be cut. It being Threads magazine I think it was aimed at knitwear designers.
@lenabreijer1311
@lenabreijer1311 2 жыл бұрын
@@katerooney2874 there are books on how to do that manually. I made several pieces doing that. But you had to calculate it all carefully in advance and what I like about hand knitting is being able to change things on the fly. The knitting machine was too much like what I did at work lol. Add to that the fact that I had migraines and moving that handle and the flicker of the little needles irritated me to no end. And every once in a while you would move the carriage and something would go wrong and the piece would fall on the floor and need to be hooked up and fixed again.
@categ6394
@categ6394 2 жыл бұрын
I bought an inexpensive machine in the late 80s...just NO 😖
@JenInOz
@JenInOz 2 жыл бұрын
If you take a look at professionally made traditional tutus, they usually use chonky (TM) hooks & eyes for closure down the back, too
@annie4424
@annie4424 2 жыл бұрын
One thing I love about Abby and her channel is that she not afraid of cutting through a lot of the biases we sometimes create when learning about the historical fashion world. She reminds us to not just accept what others say and actually question whether something is true or if it’s just someone else’s bias that’s been handed down to us. Things like “What is haut couture really” or “Not like other girls” or the classic “Everyone sucks at sewing” have helped me open my eyes to the “us vs them” attitudes that is simply everywhere in life. These types of vids are so needed so when, for instance, many creators talk about their “dream worth dress”, the rest of us can remember that that is an option, not something that we all have to find in order to fit in and be a part of this community.
@LucianCorrvinus
@LucianCorrvinus 2 жыл бұрын
So it's like....your version of...who was the best Joker? That sucks man, I'm sorry....
@emilyreames7748
@emilyreames7748 2 жыл бұрын
completely agree, and now I include the obligatory joke about "cutting though the bias..." straight weave is harder to drape, true :D (sorry that was a bad pun)
@roxiepoe9586
@roxiepoe9586 2 жыл бұрын
This is what my home economics teacher said! She said it in the 1970's. Investing hours and hours in a piece made of cheap material made her crazy! :)
@amb163
@amb163 2 жыл бұрын
I'm so glad I'm not the only one who is "meh" about Worth dresses. A lot of them look the same. There are a couple of lovely exceptions, but when you've designed that many dresses you're bound to have a few good ones. I say "designed" and not "made" because he didn't make his dresses. He had a team of underpaid, under-appreciated people (especially women) who actually made them.
@katerrinah5442
@katerrinah5442 2 жыл бұрын
I got told I needed a favourite worth gown. So I looked and found a bunch of other by other designers I liked more. They're not bad... They're just not special and magical
@limecilla7612
@limecilla7612 2 жыл бұрын
My opinion (just an opinion, nothing set in stone) is that Worth had a lot of press success because he was a man, and all the seamstress of his age were women. It's like it happened in haute cuisine: women can be cooks, but only men were considered chefs for a long time. If you add to that the good relationship that he had with Empress Eugenie, who was the one that set trends during the 1860's, and his (and his wife's) excelent marketing skills, that's how Worth made managed to establish himself as "The couturier". By the turn of the 20th Century, with the Second Empire long forgotten, he was just resting on his laurels and churning out "easy" dresses for export.
@francespowell6923
@francespowell6923 2 жыл бұрын
What makes a Worth Gown lovely is the fabric. Other than that, they're much of a muchness.
@maryeckel9682
@maryeckel9682 2 жыл бұрын
The only Worth pieces I really admire are the Ironwork gown and that tulip cape.
@somethingclever8916
@somethingclever8916 2 жыл бұрын
I think worth had a lot of talent especially to be a leader of fashion from 1860s-1900 Some things are meh. Others are gorgeous It would be like looking at t shirts that say versace and grading his life work off that
@Sudenveri
@Sudenveri 2 жыл бұрын
Y'know, I'm wondering how much influence the post-war proliferation of washing machines and dryers had on the rise of midcentury sewing rules. Unfinished seams don't last long even in modern machines, and the early ones would've chewed through clothing even faster.
@LucianCorrvinus
@LucianCorrvinus 2 жыл бұрын
You'd be foolish to attempt to throw a Worth gown in a washing machine.... ....
@hinachansansensei
@hinachansansensei 2 жыл бұрын
Hmm that's an interesting point but I don't think "modern" midcentury washing machines are as powerful as you seem to be positing here? Like I see your point about unfinished seams unraveling due in part to agitation during the wash cycle but I think that's much more of a recent problem with cheaply made/poorly sewn clothes vs. the wash today. My parents have told me that during their lifetime when my grandmother bought a washing machine last they would have to assure (and remind) her that she didn't need to scrub extra soap into dirty socks BEFORE starting the cycle for it to come out clean. However as far as I know she was still using a washboard and washing things by hand well into her eighties. 😂 At that point I think it was force of long habit rather than being skeptical about the washing machine's ability to clean clothes lol
@MossyMozart
@MossyMozart 2 жыл бұрын
@@hinachansansensei - I knew someone who had one of those antique wringer model washing machines that she used at least once a week. What it may have lacked in horsepower it made up for in rugged bulldogedness. It was great for blue collar work clothes and sheets, but like @Kayla Sheiner wrote, it would have shredded fine garments.
@spacewolfcub
@spacewolfcub 2 жыл бұрын
That’s an interesting thought. Or maybe the Depression era demanded garments that were better finished so that they lasted longer?
@infamoussphere7228
@infamoussphere7228 2 жыл бұрын
Yeah I was thinking it was about machine washing and dryers. Of course you're not putting evening gowns in the washing machine but when it comes to everyday clothes? Also with mass produced clothes there's "hanger appeal", where the clothes look good on the hanger - and on a hanger you can see inside the clothes somewhat so it's good to have facings/finishings. That said, I've seen some midcentury home sewn clothes in second hand stores and it's not uncommon to see edges just completely left raw because who cares. (Pinking is also super common for home sewing. I got a pair of pinking shears last year and since I don't have an overlocker it's a great alternative to zigzagging, since it doesn't use thread.)
@blackcatsandunicorns7594
@blackcatsandunicorns7594 2 жыл бұрын
The more I see how historical clothing is made, the better I feel about the stuff I make.
@ericalbany
@ericalbany 2 жыл бұрын
A bodice which closes up the back implies the wearer has someone to help her dress
@camille.c
@camille.c 2 жыл бұрын
ok right off the bat i am loving how we are starting with construction, because in my mind what separates couture/designer/higher end/mass produced/fast fashion today is 1. construction quality (finishes, corners cut, quality of materials etc.) 2. use of advanced fabric manipulating, finishing, decoration and tailoring techniques 3. innovation in said techniques (so for me, someone like iris van herpen) 4. design (very abstract, hard to define) so not everything big designer brands do can be considered couture, and though 'designer' has some connotation of quality a LOT of it is also just. branding because there is only so far you can use quality to justify the prices. anyway it strikes me as something to note that CoUTuRE meant something rather different in that era than we think of it today because of the generally higher standard of workmanship/clothing quality as well as the wider range of fanciness/price 'tiers' if you will, back then. (even clothing between the 1920s-60s-ish can be differentiated from contemporary clothing because home dressmaking was more of a tradition and globalisation hadn't gone as far as it has now. capitalism and the use of mass manufacturing to keep production costs waaay down strikes again :/ )
@ellajando-saul2493
@ellajando-saul2493 2 жыл бұрын
I am so happy your comment directed me to Iris Van Herpen. I am mesmerized as I never have been before by fashion.
@LucianCorrvinus
@LucianCorrvinus 2 жыл бұрын
And yet...all Houses of Couture have ready to wear lines...a branded look they guard jealously...and diversify their cache selling thier name to be slapped on any number of goods...
@LucianCorrvinus
@LucianCorrvinus 2 жыл бұрын
Oh...and how many pairs of jeans or simple Ts are in your closet?
@annbrookens945
@annbrookens945 2 жыл бұрын
I loved this! Haute couture has seemed unattainable but I see that I am out of line thinking that that is so! I AM fully capable of producing equivalent work! Nice to know. This brings to mind a yard sale purchase I made in the early 70s: a 40s-50s homemade dress in the most gorgeous burgundy silk velvet! Obviously homemade by an amateur seamstress but I'm sure it was her favorite dress for the more formal occasions in her life. I remade it in my college pattern-making class and it was MY favorite dress for certain occasions. My oldest daughter snapped it up as soon as it fit her and carried it off to Minneapolis when she left home. So that special dress is still special!
@cap4life1
@cap4life1 2 жыл бұрын
Abby! Thank you SO much for calling out Worth and the hype around this brand. His contemporaries were just as good if not better yet he became famous because he branded the dresses (and more successfully exploited) the labor of the women that worked for him. He was also very selective about who could wear his clothes making women essentially audition before they could have the opportunity to purchase from him. He is not great, it’s all marketing and I hope folks in the community will educate themselves more about other designers of that time.
@Noel.Chmielowiec
@Noel.Chmielowiec 2 жыл бұрын
So I'm not alone in thinking that Worth's dresses look the same. Beautiful, but damn, every single one is made from the same pattern. I love the editing in this video :D
@cincocats320
@cincocats320 2 жыл бұрын
His system was pretty genius for the time, mix and match bodice-skirt patterns and a shop of trimmakers to add a bit of uniqueness to each. It was the only way the atelier could churn out hundreds of gowns in a season. The only Worth designs I really love are the ones from the late teens, there are some really unique pieces in that era that I find much more exciting than the earlier ball gowns.
@LucianCorrvinus
@LucianCorrvinus 2 жыл бұрын
Ummm...do all Chanel suits have the exact same pattern? By first glance you might believe it so....but once you look at several spanning a few decades? They share a certain soilloiette, but not always the same overall exacting cut...
@Noel.Chmielowiec
@Noel.Chmielowiec 2 жыл бұрын
@@LucianCorrvinus Thank you for pointing that! I never thought about it, but you are absolutely right. Maybe that's what we identify with certain designers. That really made me think.
@LucianCorrvinus
@LucianCorrvinus 2 жыл бұрын
@@Noel.Chmielowiec I have the luck to have been watching one of Abby's friends exact I believe her name is Bernadette, body on names of time.. Anyway create the worth peacock dress. And one of her vexations are all the pretty time of being a unclear pattern for the skirt portion of a Down.. by the way that blog on the recreation of the peacock dress is a worthy watch. Just saying...
@Noel.Chmielowiec
@Noel.Chmielowiec 2 жыл бұрын
@@LucianCorrvinus I watched Cathy's videos, I believe that you're talking about her. This dress, while beautiful, is still looking quite generic in shape, for lack of a better word. However I'm still interested in how it progresses. I would like to know how exactly it should be made.
@andocs163
@andocs163 2 жыл бұрын
abby: “doesnt mean its nice” *sips tea* Me: buuuuuuuuurrrrrrrnnnnnnnnnnn
@abbysmommy1205
@abbysmommy1205 2 жыл бұрын
Abby- says that worth is overrated *Cathy Hay has entered the chat* Lol in all seriousness, great video, love learning about dress history.
@agcons
@agcons 2 жыл бұрын
In a recent video Cathy Hay did have something similar to say about the similarity of Worth's gowns. She wasn't singing about it - although I'd be well pleased if she did - but when Abby mentioned the same thing here I thought of Cathy's video immediately.
@MelDaltonMusic
@MelDaltonMusic 2 жыл бұрын
🤣
@thevampirefrog06
@thevampirefrog06 2 жыл бұрын
​@@agcons Yeah it's really interesting how they're drawing on a lot of the same points, both with a "you can totally do this" bent, despite having very different opinions on the look/reputation of Worth gowns haha.
@alisav8394
@alisav8394 2 жыл бұрын
No need to bring drama into this conversation.
@dontfwithfreddy
@dontfwithfreddy 2 жыл бұрын
“Worth is garbage” lmao you missed the opportunity to say Worth is *worthless* 😂😂😂 I’ll see myself out.
@janehollander1934
@janehollander1934 2 жыл бұрын
🤣
@Anopano3000
@Anopano3000 2 жыл бұрын
A+ burn
@lenabreijer1311
@lenabreijer1311 2 жыл бұрын
It is garbage but not worthless because it still sells for high prices. But it is a great pun.
@adiduck3143
@adiduck3143 2 жыл бұрын
Holy crow, Abby, shots fired! 😂Need to pause and switch out my coffee for tea, this is going to be amazing I can already tell.
@AbbyCox
@AbbyCox 2 жыл бұрын
🤣🤣🤣🤣
@adahusten2188
@adahusten2188 2 жыл бұрын
Hidden Affirmations and Dress History with Abby Cox: "what makes something than something else is not always visible on the outside"
@midgey50
@midgey50 2 жыл бұрын
I was JUST about to google sprung boning when editing abby came in! Thanks for the explanation. I’ve learned so much from watching your videos.
@CopenhagenDreaming
@CopenhagenDreaming 2 жыл бұрын
It's basically all very simple. Couture is sewing. It's tailoring, it's making clothes fit the body, it's getting things done. Haute couture is... Well, it's just the next level, isn't it? And many historical garments will be more elaborate than modern clothes, so they might be similar to modern haute couture in that they have more attention to detail and are custom-made. But they are really just couture.
@LucianCorrvinus
@LucianCorrvinus 2 жыл бұрын
And Haute culture is where a designer had allowance to stray from his seasonal look and try out something they'd never put on a petit a puar ( sic) show...
@MabruBlack
@MabruBlack 2 жыл бұрын
When I think about ‘haute couture’, I’ve always thought about ‘unique’ pieces like art pieces. I’d be really disappointed if I commissioned something original and then the designer mass produced it. With Worth, I think he was just a great businessman; as much as I love the ‘sun with clouds’ dress/es (my fav embroidery work), they are not my favorite dresses from the past (I’ve always hated the bodices that go with the skirts tbh).
@jackie9397
@jackie9397 2 жыл бұрын
This actually happened to me! I commissioned a dressmaker for a prairie dress, and it got a lot of attention when they posted it…so they mass produced it ☹️ even when they asked me before hand and I asked them not to 😅 I’m still hurt so I share whenever I can cuz it’s awful.
@MossyMozart
@MossyMozart 2 жыл бұрын
@Lu - This video shows what modern haute couture garments can be and why they are the works of art you recognize and why they cost so blinkin' much! The video goes from design sketch through to its run way debut. Along the way, it took a team of dozens of people from at least 4 companies and one month to construct it. It is gorgeous, complicated, and NOT a beginner's project. ^_^ "(SAVOIR FAIRE) Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011 (Passage No°5)" - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iKeIntZ9zbKqcXU.html
@MabruBlack
@MabruBlack 2 жыл бұрын
@@MossyMozart I've seen that video before! It's amazing all the work behind one single garment, so much respect for all artisans behind it!
@Farthingales
@Farthingales 2 жыл бұрын
Haute couture is not at all about uniqueness - it's to do with attention to detail and quality of workmanship. That takes time, and that is what makes haute couture so expensive, be it Worth or Givenchy, or any couture house. If you watch a video of the preparation that goes into a big-name runway dress, you'll understand that that kind of attention just doesn't go into mass production clothing. because the "masses" couldn't afford it, but it IS worth doing for a one-of piece that is a showcase item.
@brucetidwell7715
@brucetidwell7715 2 жыл бұрын
First, I can't say how much I admire that you filmed a huge section of your video with a sweater over you pajamas and just put that out there like "this is realness and I don't give F." You are the best! I think Worth earned his reputation through marketing, some over the top materials and design details which are the dresses that come to mind when one thinks "Worth gown," and his clientele. Nothing makes a dress impressive like a foot note that Mrs. Astor or Alva Vanderbilt, or whoever wore it.
@robintheparttimesewer6798
@robintheparttimesewer6798 2 жыл бұрын
I love this. The fact that they didn’t always finish the inside or didn’t take care with stitching if it wouldn’t be seen. Makes me feel better about my sewing!
@spirit__fox
@spirit__fox 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you on the Worth thing! Some of my favorites have always been more Emil Pignat (I know a bit earlier than Worth). What I've felt like is that Worth has the best modern PR machine.
@maryeckel9682
@maryeckel9682 2 жыл бұрын
I also love Paquin and Redfern
@kfries1282
@kfries1282 2 жыл бұрын
When you look at it this closely, the choice of finishing, especially whipped seam allowance vs bound makes me wonder if sometimes it was because it would reduce bulk along those seams
@Jasmine-in-my-mind
@Jasmine-in-my-mind 2 жыл бұрын
I was thinking the same thing.
@MossyMozart
@MossyMozart 2 жыл бұрын
@K Fries - That's a very important point.
@charlottemajewski5992
@charlottemajewski5992 2 жыл бұрын
I thought the same thing about the raw edge covered with a single layer of ribbon rather than binding.
@Farthingales
@Farthingales 2 жыл бұрын
That is exactly the point of it, and notice the edges didn't fray, so, mission accomplished, bulk prevented.
@Terrelli9
@Terrelli9 2 жыл бұрын
The shade and snark of this commentary is truly beautiful. I love channels like this where they just act like regular people. Keep up the great work!
@Peevesiak
@Peevesiak 2 жыл бұрын
I was just thinking to myself that I am going to google what exactly is this 'spring boning' when editing Abby appeared. This sort of witchcrafty timing is what I am here for!
@Melavara
@Melavara 2 жыл бұрын
The couture stuff is fascinating and all but tbh I’m just in love with your black pirate shirt 🤷🏻‍♀️
@rd6203
@rd6203 2 жыл бұрын
Same! Was just thinking that I might have found my Halloween costume 😝
@piavazellejerome4538
@piavazellejerome4538 2 жыл бұрын
I'll tell a client in a heart beat cheap material will cost no less than getting high quality for my to build. But I'm pretty sure I will not build a high end garment out of cheap material, my hands just does not like the feel of it - ewe thinking about it makes me spit. ewe - Just watched you today - I'm a 70 year old designer and you are the first I've ever subscribed to. Great work!
@nerdgirl7363
@nerdgirl7363 2 жыл бұрын
I'm a knitting designer and I've always said that a highly skilled knitter can make a cheap yarn look good but we will never want to. I'm knitting a garment for 40+ hours, I going to spend the 20 to 30% more for even the most basic of quality wools instead of essentially plastic
@ceruleanskies001
@ceruleanskies001 2 жыл бұрын
This was super informative. More importantly, however, is now I am inspired even more inspired to make a Westley shirt. Seriously though, after seeing your unboxings and now this, one take away is if it isn't going to be seen, don't sweat it so hard. Overcast em, leave em raw, etc. Put the stitches where it matters most first. (I say this as a perfectionist learning to sew on their own. I need validation)
@lady_sir_knight3713
@lady_sir_knight3713 2 жыл бұрын
If you made Bernadette's pirate shirt in black? 👀
@ceruleanskies001
@ceruleanskies001 2 жыл бұрын
@@lady_sir_knight3713 That's exactly what I was thinking.
@talosheeg
@talosheeg 2 жыл бұрын
Having just finished recreating my worth gown, this is so well timed!
@kirstenpaff8946
@kirstenpaff8946 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the interesting video. You talked a lot about the differences in quality between haute couture and regular clothes, but how did Victorians/Edwardians define quality? Was it in terms of fit? How expensive the materials were? How long the dress lasted? I feel like fashion was changing so quickly by the 1890s that there wasn't any reason for ladies who were rich enough to buy haute couture to care about durability in the same way that some modern consumers see certain couture items (like say a really nicely made suit) as a long term investment piece that you will wear for decades. Also, I am pretty sure the haute couture rules of 1945 were purely created to protect the Parisian fashion industry after WWII. It was all about marketing and preserving their own economic interests, rather than any particular commitment to craft.
@MossyMozart
@MossyMozart 2 жыл бұрын
@Kristen Paff - Those are all good questions. However, the ateliers today are as dedicated to craft as they are to promotion. And aren't they one in the same? Sadly, there are only a handful left today to carry the torch.
@alisiaeve
@alisiaeve 2 жыл бұрын
As some one who loves Worth and created a database of every extant Worth gown (held by a museum) I can confirm that yes, they're all the same dress LMAO
@elizabethclaiborne6461
@elizabethclaiborne6461 2 жыл бұрын
So… haute couture is a business model? Branding? It appears to be from 1945 on, but Worth was about cranking it out. The brown LV bag of the time, they make as many as they can sell. The modern myths about couture are just sewing, but the prices demand !Specialness! Art galleries do the same branding by myth. Chanel seamstress- “couture is about shaping the fabric”. All sewing is about shaping the fabric. 🙄 We can make a long list of the buzzwords. Paris couture exists to keep artisans employed and bring in foreign money.
@ZoraTheberge
@ZoraTheberge 2 жыл бұрын
Parisian Couture exists to keep an air about the Accessories And Cosmetics companies. Yes, very often, they are employing incredibly elaborate and artisanal techniques that cannot be mass-produced, but it’s understood that Haute Couture is hardly profitable.
@MotherHemCreations
@MotherHemCreations 2 жыл бұрын
Omg our girl just called out worth! I cackled so hard my girlfriend who knows nothing of historical fashion(but has been learning from watching with me) even laughed.
@kristynaplihalova
@kristynaplihalova 2 жыл бұрын
I have to say, I begin to associate Aby's videos with calm Sunday afternoon. I wish I had women like her in my life, I could spend every week geeking about sewing... This is the closest I can get.
@katherinemorelle7115
@katherinemorelle7115 2 жыл бұрын
I associate her and Nicole’s videos with a lovely start to my Monday mornings (given that I live in the future). I look forward to it every week.
@elliesenko5173
@elliesenko5173 2 жыл бұрын
I know some crazy people constantly geeking over historical clothing, I'm one of them :D If you'd like to chat about it sometimes, we could. Česky, klidně teda ;)
@ClaireCochranStitchBuzz
@ClaireCochranStitchBuzz 2 жыл бұрын
I completely agree😍😍
@oliquin-roo3420
@oliquin-roo3420 2 жыл бұрын
Found this video absolutely fascinating since long (long) ago I was a fashion design student who along with the entire program dreamed of being a couturier, so I can affirm the modern day definition of couture was significantly over simplified. Mainly the extensive certification process a label must go through to use "couture" as a descriptor, such as yearly fees, certain number of years in business, blah, blah, maybe a kidney oh and more pretentious blah. Ps. After graduating transferred all possible credits to Healthcare Admin and now have a masters.
@Aethelgeat
@Aethelgeat 2 жыл бұрын
Another I can think of for House of Worth only making bodices with rear-lacing/hooks is a presumption that they are being made only for an economic class that can afford household staff, specifically a lady's maid, to assist with dressing. That other dressmakers did not follow this practice would then suggest it was only a part of the culture of Worth, not in general. I'm not arguing that it's not because of the simplicity of construction. In fact, it would not surprise me if it was for cost and efficiency, but covertly marketed (word of mouth) as indicative of the status. The chonky hooks fascinate me, as if there was the expectation of heavier load (heavier and layered fabric?) or to last longer (even if the wearer could probably afford a new one before something gave way).
@BryonyClaire
@BryonyClaire 2 жыл бұрын
Your Worth song has the vibes as the intern song Bo Burnham had in his Netflix special 😂 I love how you deconstructed this (pun v much intended) because the whole "the label matters" thing just screams classist bs when there are so many incredible designers over the years who are dealing with this gatekeeping keeping them from getting the recognition they deserve
@JanetCowan
@JanetCowan 2 жыл бұрын
Petition for “Chonky”, “Chonky Boning”, and/or “Chonky Worth” merchandise??
@DawnOldham
@DawnOldham 2 жыл бұрын
I’ll never ever sew a dress like this (my level of expertise is making circle skirts for my granddaughter! Lol) and I will never have an opportunity to wear a costume, but I really enjoy your quirky humor and how you teach history through clothing. Thank you for such enjoyable videos!
@biancafairytale
@biancafairytale 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you SOO MUCH for this video, I’m making a historical fashion product for my college and I was feeling quite awful about not making everything by hand cuz of time and etc and feeling like it was low quality because of that and you just made me soo much happier today with this conclusion
@anonymousperson4214
@anonymousperson4214 2 жыл бұрын
The couture hooks and eyes look like what I'm used to seeing as tutu hooks. And yes, they are wonderful! Faster to sew on, hold much more tension, and faster to put on/take off.
@charlottemajewski5992
@charlottemajewski5992 2 жыл бұрын
I never heard of tutu hooks. Where do you get them?
@PumpkinBecki
@PumpkinBecki 2 жыл бұрын
Fascinating! I was always under the impression (which I got from watching "House of Elliott" backwards and forwards), that couture and haute couture fashion houses of the 1910s and 20s wouldn't dream of using sewing machines. I guess reality is very different to TV 😊 xx
@pmclaughlin4111
@pmclaughlin4111 2 жыл бұрын
Love the process of looking at the static Pinterest pictures and then the dynamic Abby Collection. Something that I wonder about that is so missing in today's sewing is: What supports the weight?...Even today, that gets totally messed up and the garments weigh so much less Also would love an examination of how one hand stitch (say overcast or catch stitch) is used in real examples... or "How did they hide the working stuff" (including big chunky hooks from frothy lacey appearance) Hope that makes sense
@hinachansansensei
@hinachansansensei 2 жыл бұрын
If you like Abby's unboxing videos I believe she also uploads extra related content on her Patreon where she goes into more detail about the garments' construction. Don't know how much about the stitching she talks about but that might answer some of your question about the closures?
@WindspielArt
@WindspielArt 2 жыл бұрын
I think people who think "haute couture" has to be handmade, dont know that they sew on the same sewing machines as fast fashion brands do... every clothing is handmade. Even the 2$ shirt bought at primark is... there are no robots sewing our stuff.... but I really think that many people dont know this.
@ouicertes9764
@ouicertes9764 2 жыл бұрын
I think the main "difference" is if the process is industrialized or not. Do you cut cost by otpimizing construction without care for the design, do you use the cheapest assembly method instead of the best/most elegant, do you use finishing techniques, do you care about details, about the overall quality... It's the difference between an artisan furniture maker and IKEA. A lot of brands today are supposed to be couture, and are for their show collection, but use industrialized production for the "sellable" items that make the most money. Hey, it's capitalism, there's profit to be made, you can't ask for good, honest artful work is the incentive is profit.
@PrincessinProcess
@PrincessinProcess 2 жыл бұрын
Wait. I am confused now. For context, I'm french, and I'm a fashion graduate, and worked as a fashion designers for many years. And what I learned in school is that Worth is the father of Prêt-a-porter. Not couture. Hence the "Worth is the same", the chunking of fashion, the tight schedules, etc House of Worth paved the way for how fashion would be sold in departement store. One model/silhouette, choosing fabrics, size tailoring etc... He revolutionized the industry, with also the concept of brand. But now, wikipedia says he's the father of Haute-couture and Sonia Delaunay is the mother of ready-to-wear... I feel betrayed by my brain....
@ceanothussoapary5998
@ceanothussoapary5998 2 жыл бұрын
I absolutely love your down the rabbit hole videos, because I thought couturier was very old since we know Rose Bertin's name. I learn something new every video. I would like to see more of the silk with cotton lining bodice, not just because the glimpse of the front stripe fabric was interesting, but the seam finish looked like deliberately made scallops, which is a great deal of care. I saw on IG that AD seems to have lost another employee, and your delightful collaborator has moved! I hope we will see her in upcoming videos! Also, doggie swag? Thank you for all your work!
@saskiacowan8962
@saskiacowan8962 2 жыл бұрын
I do like a few of the Worth gowns, but they never really clicked with me the way other fashion house dresses did, so seeing you say that the Worth dresses are basically all the same dress made me feel infinitely better 😂
@nancycollins9783
@nancycollins9783 2 жыл бұрын
I've come to accept extra touches, customized to each client, that the client can feel or enjoy and not necessarily be seen by others. Like a fur-lined pocket, or silk flower petals as filler inside a poofy skirt. Secret compartments, cleverly concealed fasteners and openings...speak coutour.
@cincocats320
@cincocats320 2 жыл бұрын
For any area of design it absolutely is the hidden or less obvious details that are the true indicators of quality. I love studying furniture design. The really high end quality pieces are differentiated from the look a likes by how things like the joints were made, how the finish was applied, hardware, and other details that aren't apparent with just a casual glance. Sometimes flashy exterior details are used to hide poor quality construction that is only noticed when living with a piece, and this is true whether its clothing, furniture, or any other area of design.
@bela516
@bela516 2 жыл бұрын
So there I was in JoAnn’s Fabrics just minding my own beeswax and looking at pattern books and who jumps out at me but none other than Ms. Abby Cox. I’m not sure how I wasn’t aware of this!
@iggyreilly2463
@iggyreilly2463 2 жыл бұрын
One measure of Worth's greatness is the extent to which far lesser mortals bash him.
@thirza9508
@thirza9508 2 жыл бұрын
Isn't it more that most famous Worth gowns were produced in a similar era, so the styles we see were the fashionable styles of that moment and thus they are very similar? Also: this video is basically anatomy but for historical dress haha! Like, were examining the evolution of the anatomy of bodices
@katherinemorelle7115
@katherinemorelle7115 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, the height of Worth was in a similar era, but if we look at other couture gowns from the same era, there’s a lot more variation than you’d see in Worth’s collection. And some far more impressive looking, more innovative designs too. There are a few Worth gowns that stand out, or that I love, (the Lily gown is a particular favourite), but most of them are very much the same, and you could find nicer gowns by other design houses- they just don’t have that brand.
@cincocats320
@cincocats320 2 жыл бұрын
Worth had a system of patterns and basically mass produced hundreds of ball gowns for each season. Clients could choose from a limited number of bodice patterns and then match to a limited number of skirt patterns. Then the fabric and trim could add some individuality. Certain commissions such as the peacock dress got more individual elements, but for the average debutante she was getting a nice quality gown that was a step above department store quality but design wise wasn't all that unique at all.
@LucianCorrvinus
@LucianCorrvinus 2 жыл бұрын
Well that and if you became known for a certain designed gown.. You can't really deviate from that to any great degree....
@thirza9508
@thirza9508 2 жыл бұрын
@@katherinemorelle7115 Ah thanks for the info!
@thirza9508
@thirza9508 2 жыл бұрын
@@LucianCorrvinus yes that's what I thought too, it was big business and why would they change it if it worked. It was the style they were known for I believe
@monical.3892
@monical.3892 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the resources! I have been wanting to find good sewing/construction books from online archive. Love your deep dive videos!
@argusfleibeit1165
@argusfleibeit1165 2 жыл бұрын
Couture rules = Gatekeeping, to the max. "Must have x number of employees, must have x number of designs per season". Says nothing really about quality or whether the clothes are attractive. Just as our modern "designer brands" are largely hype and over-priced, to gin up public desire to own, to the point that cheap fakes are made. I can only assert that a certain class of customers just has WAY too much play money to throw around, to try to make the rest of us feel-- what? Bad? Jealous? Inferior? Motivated to keep up with the Kardashians? Don't fall for the hype. Make or buy or wear clothes that you actually like, and don't worry about who makes them or who else is wearing them.
@Chompchompyerded
@Chompchompyerded 2 жыл бұрын
I'm amazed at your wealth of knowledge, and further more, I'm super glad you're sharing it all with us! I always look forward to seeing new content from you, and I learn something new every single time. Sometimes a lot of somethings new. Thanks so much for all the wonderful work that you and your assistants do, and for all the time you put in to make these! I can't afford to make a single item you make, but it sure is interesting to know how it was done. It's living history! Thanks!
@ColorwaveCraftsCo
@ColorwaveCraftsCo 2 жыл бұрын
This was definitely very informative! I used to be OBSESSED with reading fashion magazines, and I always wondered what made one brand “couture” while the other one wasn’t. (I always thought everyone knew but me so I was kinda too scared to ask lol). Looking at this question through the lens of dress history was very interesting as well.
@LucianCorrvinus
@LucianCorrvinus 2 жыл бұрын
It's all culture....the term is representative of clothing created by a house or designer. Did you perhaps mean ready to wear versus haute culture?
@valeriemiller2029
@valeriemiller2029 2 жыл бұрын
Motivated by you Abby! Thanks for the passion and perspective in the architecture of some of the first Haut couture pieces! Brain Candy
@KenZchameleon
@KenZchameleon 2 жыл бұрын
Hi Abby! I'm learning so much from your videos! your sarcasm, shade, pop culture references and "real-ness" make sure I come back every week. I'm super stoked to see the bodice!!!
@carolhoke3883
@carolhoke3883 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you Abby. Your video made me feel better about my meager home sewing skills. I intend to tackle a riding habit one of these days, but lack the courage to get started on my mock up. I have a pattern for a 1910 outfit with a split skirt, but have not been very confident about my sewing skills. After seeing this video, I believe I do have the skills necessary to get started and know where to go if I get stuck. Thank you for making this video. It has been very helpful and encouraging! Thank you for the gentle push.
@Chaz29girl
@Chaz29girl 2 жыл бұрын
I love watching these when I’m sewing! It keeps me inspired! Thank you!
@rudetuesday
@rudetuesday 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for adding some nuance to this. I think the fashion industry has always intentionally kept things opaque whenever possible, in order to door-keep language--and exclusivity in general, which keeps them relevant and makes them more money. Thanks for linking out to the Butterick info. This is fascinating stuff.
@AlbinoMonkeyC
@AlbinoMonkeyC 2 жыл бұрын
Watching you go off and rant about sewing is always a treat.
@beefarren
@beefarren 2 жыл бұрын
That first shot of you lighting the candle inspired me to go back to my half-finished linen blouse project. I've never hand-drafted a piece meant for everyday wear before so i've been putting it off (bc intimidating) but your outfit looks so comfy, i had to keep working on it!
@beefarren
@beefarren 2 жыл бұрын
update: i finished it, it fits perfectly, i learned a lot and i have three more yards of linen to play with :D i might try a nice floofy relaxed style like the one in this video next. it just looks so cozy!
@watsonmelon6575
@watsonmelon6575 2 жыл бұрын
I love your coverage of this topic and it's so interesting
@SewlockHolmes
@SewlockHolmes 2 жыл бұрын
Ooo, I found this absolutely fascinating! Thanks again for a really fun, educational video, I love learning about dress history!:D
@lorisewsstuff1607
@lorisewsstuff1607 2 жыл бұрын
That does it! I'm embroidering me some silk waist tapes and adding them to my clothes. 😂
@lajoyous1568
@lajoyous1568 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks again for answering all the questions I never asked, but would have probably Googled eventually. 😄❤❤❤
@lcostantino7931
@lcostantino7931 2 жыл бұрын
I just LOVE watching learning n laughing with you.... Stay well. Blessings to you....
@dee-annegordon5959
@dee-annegordon5959 2 жыл бұрын
I love getting these chances to peek inside higher end garments of the period. Seeing the "messy" finishes and the "good enough" attitude on the inside combined with the attention to detail where it really matters, is so encouraging to my own sewing endeavors.
@bobbibuttons8730
@bobbibuttons8730 2 жыл бұрын
Absolutly loved this video Abby. It was so interesting to hear you say about the classification of Haute Couture. I hadn’t realised it was so recent. The other thing is you are such a gorgeous wee lassie with no make up or should I say, au natural. Keep these fabulous videos coming. I get to sew vicariously through you as I’m no longer well enough to sew now, same goes for the fabulous Nicole.
@rebeccawilson7705
@rebeccawilson7705 2 жыл бұрын
Abby, I love this content! Thanks for another awesome video!
@xXOpenYourHeart759Xx
@xXOpenYourHeart759Xx 2 жыл бұрын
Wow, look at all these lovely, perfect examples of what could've been worn to the 2022 Met Gala
@cassandra007
@cassandra007 Жыл бұрын
Sprung boning explanation came right before I was going to pause and go research it! Thanks!
@kimberlywiley5455
@kimberlywiley5455 2 жыл бұрын
I love history and I love fashion, and i am so glad I found ur channel. Ty
@sarahvarnadoe5105
@sarahvarnadoe5105 2 жыл бұрын
This explained the difference handmade clothes as opposed to Haute couture so brilliantly! Yes! Tiny elastic in the “sleeveless” gown but raw stitched in gauze sleeves! The details are on point but where things can be done simply ♥️♥️♥️
@LeanneRaine
@LeanneRaine 2 жыл бұрын
I loved this video and it's so educational for a newbie like me! I always wondered what made something "couture" and this was a good explanation. However, I will say the best part is the subtitles. Not to make fun, but the line, "This is bailey, so these are boned out of aliens" did give me a good laugh. I'm pretty sure no aliens were harmed in the making of these clothes. Thank you so much for the video
@debbralehrman5957
@debbralehrman5957 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the explanation of the difference between the manufacturing of garments.
@dianavoermans
@dianavoermans 2 жыл бұрын
Oh how I like your research subjects! Right up my alley for school. You motivate me hugely to do my own, and at least I know were to start 😘
@mjgbabydragonlet
@mjgbabydragonlet 2 жыл бұрын
Love your videos! especially your nerdy ones!
@nicolakunz231
@nicolakunz231 2 жыл бұрын
Watching this editing, I wanna make Abby a huge cup of coffee. It's been an interesting vid! You did great Bebe!
@margorgogo
@margorgogo 2 жыл бұрын
I am SO HAPPY a friend of mine turned me on to your page!!
@michellecornum5856
@michellecornum5856 2 жыл бұрын
How did I miss this? Love the deep dive!
@Adrienne557
@Adrienne557 2 жыл бұрын
I love that Abby anticipates and answers my silly questions at 18:15. Also, I am so with her on the question of whether Worth is worthy of the title of “father of couture”
@AnnaMorimoto
@AnnaMorimoto 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, I am excited! Fashion! Yes! Whoo!
@vernieplummer5148
@vernieplummer5148 2 жыл бұрын
Oh way to go explaining sprung boning after I just spent at least 20 minutes trying to find out and giving up LOL.
@AbbyCox
@AbbyCox 2 жыл бұрын
and even then I'm not that good at it. 🤣🤣🤣
@janetburkett3496
@janetburkett3496 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the sprung boning explanation. It had just the right amount of detail. I started learning to sew in the '70s and gave it up because I could never make it "properly" and also make it look good. Thanks for license to try it again.
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