My first thought when it comes to these LiPo manufacturer's claimed C-rating is one word: OPTIMISM

Looking like Tom Brady and delivering the RC goods like a pristine fade touchdown to the corner. Love your content, better information than I've been able to found anywhere, not simply best of youtube.

5:30 that was my mind-blowing question i never got an answer for, so thanks, your 2'nd point there does explain a lot

Great explanation. I never thought of the connector being a limiting factor, but it makes perfect sense. Thank you

love your channel. So much in-depth coverage. thanks!

Wow very good man! That was really informative and I watched the whole thing you kept it factz and interesting. Bravo 👏

After watching this thru, I still don't know what lipo manufactures don't want me to know.

7:06 i was really starting to get anxious right up to this bit just before the message appeared on the screen 😂😂

If you cut a hole in your lipo battery it will ventilate better which will give you longer run times and more power.

Nice informative video dealing with some questions I have had

Great video. Could you possibly do a video on the difference between a low KV motor with less gearing vs a high kv motor with more gearing. After gearing if both setups have the same RPM which one has more torque?

You have got to be a Navy guy! Thanks gor your service snd your great videos!

I have Wayne Gills C testing device, my experience testing several LIPO at my club that C rating on label and my testing gives normaly half the C number on the LIPO, so on LIPO it say 30C , real C is about 15. Just remember LIPO should be as warm as possible to have a good internal resistance.

All my big rigs use amss as150 J pull 600amps + through them. Just look at cable rating I use 8 swg 8” uk use xt90 10” up us as150. You’ll also need plugs with spark arrest inbuilt to stop spikes in plug it

Great info, thanks! Just got a radix 6s team corally. What charger and battery would you recommend? And is the stock xt90 connectors good enough?

This is a well known problem between racing and freestyle drone pilots. You said that they could write what they want, but, they pay for it because people always talk about wich battery perform the best, wich one is more real despite C rating an capacity. In my experience I tried rhino (1300mah 50C) leopard power(1300mah 110C and 1200mah 110C) chnl(1300mah 120C and 1500mah 100C)ovonic(1300mah 120C) and also r line(1300mah 120C) all 6S batteries. Now based on my experience the best battery on this list for performance/cost are 1.chnl 2. leopard power 3. rhino and the most powerfull are the chnl. But the reality when you're flying is that you never reach those high discharge rate, except for few seconds or less. Indeed I can say that I have some 1900kv 6S motors that can suck the lipo like nothing, but, I fly a lot with them. Also the XT60 connector is not that bad for its purpose, and for few seconds nothing would happen to it, I think that about that you're over exagerating saying that it would heat so much to take off during flight.

I really liked the video, because you DO GO INTO THE STATUS OF FACTORS THAT APPLY TO THE EXPECTANCY OF BUYING WHAT YOU PAID FOR!! 😮😮

GREAT explanation, As I extected how to deliver 40A on jst 😔. I have a battery that is 550 mah 80c but with jst connector.

C rating source being essentially "just trust me bro" I mean obviously c rating being fake/not true ish. But I'm already used to that

Interesting.

Real world experience by flying with your new pack about half the time you calculated and land and measure what's left.

Not sure what came to mind but was definitely curious to find out what it is since I’m new to lipos I’ve always used the old 6c nimh packs

Hi there I have just subscribed and I need to know about the battery in my XK Detect X380 which is a 11.1v 5400 Mah 3s 20c, and I am wondering if it would be an advantage to put a higher C rated battery pack in it?

Could the xt60 cause worse battery sag if trying to draw too many amps. Iv been wondering that.

I can't think of any thing the battery try to hide from me mainly because we the consumer are so smart these days. Our engineering degrees make us know everything, and the KZfaq reviews are so thorough.

The "C" Rating was the first thing that came to my mind, too. Especially with the cheaper brands like zippy, I would never trust their ratings. And even if a brand battery can actually deliver that much current, it might not make a lot of sense because the capacity is reduced from all the internal heat losses. Basicall, a battery powered system can deliver peak power when the resistance of the load matches the internal resistance of the battery. But that also means by Ohms law, it is only 50% efficient, cutting the effective capacity in half...

Use XT60 on all my cars,as they are only 1/10 and probably pull no more than 50A max, and then in only short bursts (garden rally circuit) and having a standardised set of connectors used in all my vehicles simplifies things. Use same for my planes,but again low power field flyers,not amp eating ducted fans,but agree that if investing that amount of money and time you should go for the best you can get-I would want a plane to fail 'cos of crappy wiring/connectors, it could hurt.

Any bigger channels or magazines with a big budget should just test one lipo a week or something. There is hardly anyone getting actual data on the brands of battery and how they perform. I have recently bought a battery that claims to be 6500mah and 110c and it's rubbish. Feels slower than my 5.6ah 50c nanotech and only charged to 6200mah.

I have some 2S 450mah 75C batteries. That would mean they are capable of delivering about 30A but they only have 20awg wires on the main connector. Something doesn't seem right. I only use them for a maximum draw of 10A.

just make sure all your connections are solid and put a damn good solder on all your leads I've been running Jets and I've been using xt60 connectors on fan units that pull 96 amps no problem and I've been using 4S 14.8 volt batteries I have not had that one issue it's all about how you solder it and how you connect it up make sure everything is tight that's it it's simple a loose connection produces heat...

Maybe a cooperative could be set up by the RC retailers for a “Standard of testing battery mfg’s products” should be formed and an internet site would show results from their independent testing. And these Battery Mfg’s could then be listed on their Real World Actual outputs. I’m sure Retailers like Raceday Quads, Rotorriot, GetFPV, Fatshark, ETC Other agencies have done similar things to keep manufacturers on the up and up. IT WORKS! Just need a leader to oversee the founding.

also they are kinda not as good after a good 180 cycles.. still will work but internal IR starts to go up... this battery in RC gets worked pretty good and after a while they will puff... always storage it and dont let the cells go below 3.0v.. people in the off road racing charge their 2s at up to 40amps charge and discharge to get the IR down but it hurts the life span of the battery and only last maybe less then 6 months or maybe less or less then a year... CELL tabs on the battery can only squeeze out so much current also so having a good connector and solid solder without cold solder is the best way to go..

I have 6500mah packs that say 6000mah on the cells when I opened it up lol but they always held the 6500mah rating or better

How cheap the materials are vs the price tag they put on the finished battery

My first thought was "Maybe it amount of batary's life cycles...?)"

Thank you .I dub thee rc dude

Is there any centralized data gathering that yields adjusted ratings for batteries that prove to be overly optimistic ? Any thoughts on which brands seem reasonable and which appear exaggerated ?

What about smaller gauge wire on a battery and putting bigger connectors on the battery, will smaller battery wires effect output? I bought battery for speedruns didn't realize the wire was 10 gauge I normally run 8 gauge wires on my batteries

Cool, very informative but a 4000mah lipo with 60c continuous would mean 240amps continuous and a decent 7" quad could easily pull 120-160amps burst. Does this mean we would need XT160 connector since XT60 is good enough only for 60A?

Also use Fs series Panasonic ultra low esr caps there ripple current is better suited

Divide advertised C rating by 2 Divide advertised capacity by 1.5 This is accurate

I used 60a esc and 3100kv brushless motor,how big value c rating best for my rc boat?

A fire 🔥hazard in some cases.

for example i bought a 2200mah 3s battery, with 60C rating, but does not say anything about the C rating for charging. when asked, the manufacturer recommends i charge at 1C. isn't this a too wide range? i'd expect a 60C discharge rate battery to be able to sustain a 10% charging rate, meaning 6C

Can you do a video on charging and what amp rate to charge lipos at

Hello. Thank You for very good content as always i have to subscribe 🙂 I have one question. For Traxxas truck Sledge, which comes with two TRX iD connectors. I want to use only one battery pack. 4S or 6S. I got 4600mAh with 35C and there was soldered T-dean. I changed the connector for XT90. Im affraid for soldering connector on ESC so there is a TRX ID connector and i have XT90 - TRX adaptor. I know that better is when i solder off the pair of stock connectors and solder only 2 wires and there place XT90. But i tested yesterday draw via Link app. On the road i achieved 100,9A max and in the grass 113,9A. So... if im counting right, i should solder XT150 or AS150 on ESC and battery packs? Because TRX connector limit is about 60A and XT90 is about 90A. But it was in some specification im not sure which A, connectors can survive really. Traxxas original battery 25C 4S 6700mAh, has 167,5A limit, so im little bit confused about connectors limits. Because some folks really using these 2x4 batteries in 8s X-maxx and im sure that there is a way higher consumption than is specification of TRX iD connector. My question leads to XT90. I have bought few pairs and want to solder also ESC. But will it be enough? These almost 114A i achieved on the grass with stock gearing and with smaller tires than the stock one are. Im ended my tests after 30minutes, it drawn about 3000mAh from the battery pack and connectors were hot. It never happens on my Slash with 3S. Exact this "hot" issue make me think about it again. I watch your videos about KV this, and some other. But can not find any suggestions for real limits of different connector types. I know that motor takes what it want, but yeah in this case it is little bit over the edge when i use one single Traxxas Id or old TRX 4(which i love) or XT90 with adaptor to Traxxas connector. For safe all i should go to XT150 / AS150 and change it also on my ESC, am I right? I think on 4S it is okay, but 6S via one cable and connector, can be an issue. I also plan test 4S battery and do the same measuring. I suppose, there will be a lot lower "A" peak. Sorry for my broken English.

How much do those chargers cost that you can do such a thing with it?

Since no matter how much math you do, the manufactures aren't going to change the way they do things, I just buy the highest c rating and mah I can afford ( 100 + c and 8000+ mah) for my 1/5 scale.

The first thing that always comes toy mind is the wire gauge on both the ESC/motor and the battery.. my motor in my Felony is rated at over 3 KW.. and the motor in my DBXL E 2.0 is rated at 7 KW.. there is no way that the wire gauge chosen can support that kind of power.

Still more honest than a McDonald's commercial.

I think they don't want us to know what it cost them to manufacture the battery vs MSRP

why does my lipo hiss at at me ,and get all puffed up! after i fly the race quad?

I would suggest what I consider a simple(r ?) explanation about the C-rating and the lower recovered energy at higher currents. It is that at higher currents, you have higher losses in the battery internal resistance. Or in other words, using a higher discharge rate, more of the applied charge is lost as heat from the battery rather than running your motor (or tester, for that matter).

So what connectors are the best?

This is why I run xt90s... also easier to use

Inconsistent size\density

in my mind, clearly this is not specified by the manufacturer: how good quality materials are used for the battery, how this impacts the overall quality of the cells and especially what test results for endurance and quality testing they had with their product before marketing it, so that i can do a comparison between different manufacturers before i actually buy different brands to test out on my own expen$e (and this for sure is not a good way to go, as i will not be testing in the same environmental variables as a laboratory does, so results will differ between them a lot => i think this is why manufacturers do not provide transparency, because you as a buyer will not be able to test on your own properly)

C rating?

C rating

C rating is a myth

Excellent - covers a lot of good information - 1) As best I can tell there are only a few LiPo manufacturers - the cells are repackaged as different brands and most don't just fudge C ratings - they lie 2) You mention but don't cover internal resistance, which is the real proof of the pudding for C ratings. If you want to see what real battery C ratings and capacities look like go here - www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1767093-Battery-Load-Test-Comparisons

Bottom line: They all lie! It is just a matter of how much. If you buy twice what you need, you should be ok. If the C and/or Ah is increased without increasing the size and/or weight, good chance it is not true.

they tell me that taping the lipo to the end of a harpoon isnt a good idea

Battery manufactures lie about everything. I charge my cells to 5V and have extra power. It even preheats the battery for these cold days in a sense for for even more additional performance

You see me every day because we look exactly the same except I'm smiling and I don't have a ring on my finger.

Low C packs have far lower effective capacity than high C packs due to running at consistently lower voltage. Taught me not to be a weight weenie about lipos.

They are all made by one or 2 companies and sold under many names, so nothing wrong with buying cheaper brands

First thought... How shoddy is the construction and attention to detail that actually comes out of the factory.

I have a shorthand way, of determining the amps rating of a battery pack, by using the posted MAH and c rating. Granted this is not perfect, but will get you in the ballpark of what you need in a particular pack or your needs to find the proper pack. We'll use for this instance a 1500 mah 50C pack, What i do is take the mah and move the decimal left 3 places turning it into amp hours (ah) or in this case 1.5 AH. I now take that 1.5 and times it to the 50C rating (1.5x50), the result is 75 amps, If you have a potential 60-75 amp load, this this battery, out side of any manufacturer misdirection, might work for you. Like I said, it's not perfect, because the C ratings are not yet standardized, but can get you in the ballpark of what you potentially need

all info on the batteries are incorrect. no ideal test data can be replycated.

Lololololol

That all batteries come out of the same factory. No difference at all.

Guns N Roses 2nd album.... LIES,LIES,LIES

Made in China.