Just bought one of these, exact model for $120 aud at a farm town garage sale. Can't wait to need it 😀

Can be used for thick metals

I didn't know I always wanted to know what was inside my 140 amp welder and how it worked. Thanks.

Hi Rob Great video and interesting as well

Hey Rob, sorry to bother you again. I just acquired another one of these however this one needs a rebuild (for aesthetics mostly) but I cannot remove the knob on the power set locking handle so I can slide the cover up and off the unit. My first was actually a screw adjust this one is a slide and lock. Does the entire lock shaft back out unthreading? Do you remove the knob then push the shaft inside? There is slight movement on the knob either way attempting to remove the clamp lock knob but it locks up both ways at about a degree. The clamp does function but locks at the back end of thread, do I keep going and back it all out?

The magnetic shunt got me to think a little. At first I thought having it in the not pulled out position would allow a greater magnetic path for the coils, thus, higher current. Then, after you said pulling it out increased the current output it has to be that the removal of the shunt allows more magnetic flux to pass through the coils increasing the current. Interesting video, as I did not know about this type, just the ones with various taps. Also noticed comments about using a basic AC unit for tig. Yes it can be done, but lacks most of the control features an actual TIG unit has. Maybe where one would very seldom use TIG it would make sense. Adding an external high frequency start unit's cost to a basic AC welder would push the cost into "just buy a tig read unit" in the first place. Plus most inverters now days have Stick and AC/DC TIG. But nothing wrong with a basic AC unit like yours, they get the job done!

Good explanation.......................Cheers

My stick welder is AT LEAST 50 years old still works like a beauty ,no idea what the brand is but weighs about 1cwt..

While the AC machines are simple and pretty much indestructible, I gotta say, DC inverters are *much* nicer to weld with. Apart from the smoother, quieter DC arc, the inverter machines can include things like hot start and anti-stick, which make life a lot easier for less-than-expert welders. Yes they've got a lot more electronics in the guts that might be more likely to fail than a few coils of wire, bit I've got a BOC Smootharc 130 lunchbox welder that I've mistreated in the workshop, up a ladder over my shoulder and out in the bush off a generator for many years and I don't think it's failing any time soon.

What Rob didn't point out is that this type of "Old School" welder is an AC unit, ie it produces AC current at the electrode, whereas many of the welders available today are electronic "inverter" welders which produce DC current at the electrode. This kind of AC welder is heavy, but basically bullet proof, whereas the DC inverter welders are much smaller and lighter, but as with anything with electronics in them, require more careful handling, but they do offer a smoother, easier to start arc.

G'day mate. Your welder looks better with its clothes on. Great video anyway. Keep on keeping on.

Nice video. 4 coil best welder , agree with you . I have aluminum coil transformer (ТДМ-305 love this shit) :)

I've gotta get myself one of these old AC welders, I have a little 170 amp inverter but the thing overheats to easily, it's great for small, intermittent jobs but sometimes I need some indestructible brute force

How the devil do you get the locking bolt out of the front of the dang thing to remove the case? Can anyone tell me?

I used to hate using mine till I discovered satincraft electrodes. They are the ducks guts.

Inherited one of these, great little welder, but what is the "special welding" for? Mine has the same "plunger" style choke.