Lol he was out of batteries 😂

😂

That's was fun

Laughs maniacally in makita

LoL 😂👍🏻

Actually the latest Milwaukee angle grinder and batteries are naff, lucky if you get 10 minutes out of them, I stick to my DeWalt/ Black & Decker, last all day.

@@dogwalker666 Yes I have the 18V Dewalt XR angle grinder, which is useful for light work, I just use to an old blue Bosch corded (probably from the 1980's) in the workshop. I haven't tried Milwaukee's bat grinder. I think its pretty hard to get a battery grinder that is really in the same class to mains powered, but they are useful.

@@supatim1 indeed my 110v DeWalt 1100 rpm is a different beast entirely however the big power tool transformer is a pain to carry around the factory.

I agree, they are both batteries at the end of the day - both can fail at any time - to me, I get the M12/18 batteries from work but when buying I get the KO’s from Amazon, got (2) 4ah ($27) and (1) 9ah ($24) - and the largest battery for the M12 lineup is a 6ah LOL. Work great, no issues - can’t bare to pay those damn Milwaukee prices!

@@dogwalker666 I work with steel, cutting, grinding, shaping, etc. I have six 5" grinders including the 60v-1400w dewalt battery and a 1900w metabo corded. The Dewalt flexvolt has proven a reliable beast for 4 years, still going, if you use 9/12ah batteries it lasts a fair while unless cutting thick plate and can function as a grinder preparing surfaces for welding, etc. They upgraded the motor to 1800w a yr or two ago but until it dies I'll stick with what I've got. The corded Metabo is the strongest 5" I've ever held, tears through steel like an oxy torch, but developed a fault and seems to be shorting after maybe 20hrs continuous use, might be the brushes. The first battery grinder I owned 6yrs ago was a brushed dewalt, with 1.3ah batteries it could barely cut a single m16 stud flush with concrete before the battery ran out. Milwaukee grinders are mostly gutless but I've recently been working with a new model with a superfast brake and a larger motor housing, its got some guts and if I were sticking with Milwaukee only thats what I'd get, its the 'rapidstop' battery grinder.

😂😂

I have plenty of both genuine and fake Makita and i can't tell the difference in power, toughness, or performance. Both fail and break when dropped at the same rate. I haven't seen any without balancing circuitry.

​@@stevemckewen1046your capping so fuckin hard that you look like Abraham lincoln.

actually, you can get a charger pretty cheap that will tell the actual capacity and max amps. I vape and I use a Nitecore charger which does exactly that and only cost $30.00. Nitecore is pretty well known and respected brand when it comes to chargers and most vape shops and reviewers will recommend them mostly because we don't want our 18650s blowing up on us lol.

those are welded and not soldered.... breaking the welds and then trying to re-assemble them would be risky and I would not recharge or store a re-assembled pack in the house or shop.

​@NonLegit Nation 2 what is the model plz? Thanks

@@zbcc12 Nitecore UMS2 charger

I have one that does this for $30, but frankly only the dumb ones can wake up dead batteries. Its handy for seeing if cells have capacity, but I only really use salvaged batteries for mice and keyboards. Edit: im talking about ni-mh

That might be my next video 👍🏻

Thanks for watching 👍🏻

Unless the fake batteries catch your house on fire and cost you much more than a genuine battery.

Keep in mind... no matter which brand you get, if you drop em in the tool from much more than hip height, the battery won't survive... My 3, 4,6Ah milwaukees do not survive a drop from a ladder...

I agree. I’ve dropped my drill from a good 20’ and it landed on the drill and survived. But I’ve dropped the same drill from the top of a ten foot ladder and it landed on the battery. That time the battery broke

👍🏻

Sounds to me like you may have already experienced a battery fire ? Can't say I have ever seen one myself. I can imagine it could get quite violent rather quickly. And yes, near impossible to put out.

@@-Mike-69 No, I have just heard about them a lot.

@@-Mike-69 Yeah it happens very quickly, it's over very quickly (if nothing else catches alight) and there is barely anything left when it's over. Just a heap of black soot and the copper terminals remains. I had a pack with 3 cells in parallel combust which left a dent in the wall and scorched the timber floor boards. Except for the thud of it hitting the wall it was near silent, just giving off a hissing sound that you wouldn't be able to hear from the next room as it self destructed.

@tarstarkusz he was not claiming that Batteries are never mislabeled. He was claiming that batteries which are not visible to the consumer are almost never mislabeled. That they usually only bother to mislabel the batteries if you can see them without destructively disassembling the pack.

Laptop batteries use 18650s that are not designed for high current draw, they are designed for higher capacity at the expense of lower C value (current availability) opposed to the 18650s used in tool batteries which are higher C but slightly lower capacity...

@@T2D.SteveArcs Indeed, but the suppliers of these cheap fakes don't really care.

@@EddieTheH 😂👍

@@T2D.SteveArcs These things are not designed for high current draw either.

@@tarstarkusz laptop batteries usually have a C rating of 1 C so the maximum current you can draw from a 2800mah laptop cell (or series string of said cells ) is 2.8A.. tool cells generally have a much higher C rating of 10 to 25 C so if we had a high current 10 C 2500mah cell (or series string of cell) we can safely draw a continuous 25A , battery powered tools are generally high current draw devices hence laptop batteries are not suitable as they are usually made up of a couple of series strings of cells or sometimes just one string. If a tool has 1 string of 10 18650s (36v) nominal battery and the tool pulls 25A you would have to use 10 C 2500mah cells because all cells in a series chain "see" the same current draw if you were to a another identical series string in parallel to the first then you could get away with 5 C cells as each cell would then "see" 12.5A draw.

You don't want to solder on these. You use a spot welder so they don't have time to heat up too much. They sell tools for it, or if you're being cheap, there's folks on the tubes here that will show you how to do it with a car battery.

​@@johngaltline9933umm... wouldn't a spot welder send a power spike straight through the battery and the balancing cirquit, frying both spectacularily in the process...?

@@SonsOfLorgar the ones for batteries usually use four small “spots” the power flows from two to the other two. You only weld one pole of the battery at a time, so the power only goes through the welder. Typically you weld metal strips to the batteries then attach them to the circuits.

Same with low voltage protection to keep the cells from draining too much.

@@Green_Expedition_Drgn I think the undervolt protection, with M12 Milwaukee anyway is actually in the tool (I was told the way to tell is the battery indicator is on the tool not the battery)

I definitely don’t let those knock offs charge if I’m not in the same room.

@@FunkFPV sounds like trust issues to me.

😜👍🏻

I bought m18 knockoffs they were aweful...one started smoking on its first use and one wouldn't charge

I have 7-8 batteries; most are 5AH but I have a 2AH, 1 8AH, and 2 12AH… along with 2 M12 batteries (a 1.5AH and a 3AH I think) Wanna know how much I spent on batteries? $0.00. Unless you need a tool right this second; wait for a sale or buy them with a bundle. Sales will usually give you a free battery when you buy a bare tool and bundles are pretty much priced to be tool only pricing with a free battery or two and a charger.

​@@Fetidafya I set up alerts for Dewalt and Milwuakee on slickdeals when I built up my tool collection. Over the course of a year I have quite the tool collection with more Dewalt 5ah and powerstack, as well as m12 2ah and 5ah high output batteries than I know what to do with. Every one of them I got for free in a bundle deal. No way would I risk burning my house down with these sketchy knockoffs anyway

I wish I knew half what that guy does about electronics.

@Funk FPV he's a genius when it comes to electronics for sure!

I found this to be true on the 8ah batteries as well. I bought the replacement shell (just the top part) pack of 2 for around $10, world of a difference. They'd always fall out of my ratchet, now I can't hardly get them out even when I try!

I’ve been using the knock off batteries going on a year with all my M12 tools including my stubby impact and 1/2 hammer drill all with good results. I have two 6.0 and two 7.0 plus four 3.5 all knock offs. The only original Milwaukee batteries I own are the three 1.5 ones that came with my tools these originals I use exclusively in my heated jackets. I purchased all eight of the knockoffs for the price of one original 6.0 so I can’t complain.

Yup. Samsung, LG, and Emrin are the only 18650 battery manufacturers that I trust. Cost a tad bit more, but they last way longer and I've never had an issue with them. And a few dollars is worth not dealing with a lithium fire in my opinion

The orginal datasheet from samsung tels 300 cycle life for 15A discharge.

@@bc-nr5tj Interesting. I've noticed that not only with the samsungs, but also other better named brands that they're touting 1000 cycles on their datasheets in newer cells.

Hmm, the cannibal in me wonders if he taste good too!

Not a bad idea 👍🏻

@@FunkFPV You can check if a hot (or very cold) thermistor disables the charger. Some knockoff batteries just fake the signal and will always charge. BTW, ya should've weighed the cells after pulling the casings off...

@@FunkFPV 👍

if someone discloses that they received a product for free to test then I usually look at their results with a little bit of side eye for that reason. 😆