It's been my experience that bits are treated as disposable. Even the so-called high quality bits can break on you (the kind that actually come with good warranties) and I'm talking about when being used for the job they were literally designed for, not that time you used a flat bit to pry something open. I have a few sets of bits to cover pretty much every bit in existence and then I have a couple spare sets of basic bits. Some of my basic sets are cheap/sacrificial and some are nicer ones with lifetime warranties. I also have a set of regular screw drivers because sometimes a bit driver will be too thick or short for the job. Fluke is a good brand but it's way over priced. If you truly want a good multi-meter without burning cash, you're better off getting a Brymen or the US version of the brand, Greenlee. Otherwise, you're just going to have to do your best picking a cheap one that has the features you want and hope it lasts long enough to pay for itself. Signs of a better multi-meter are things like an easy access battery compartment with the fuses right there too. I don't use pliers very often and the Kobalt pliers I bought have been good enough for my occasional use. That said, people do say a lot of nice things about the pliers you recommended.

That's true! I don't get the multi function drivers. I'd rather have a set of screwdriving bits that I can use in a ratcheting screwdriver, bit ratchet (normal 1/4" drive socket wrench, but it holds hex bits and is super low profile), and a drill/impact driver. That one set works in 3 or more tools, and I can choose what quality I want. Multi drivers are frustrating to me, because none of them have the bits in a configuration I like, because all the bits are double ended I'd rather just have a bin with the bits set out and I choose what I want from there. Appliances may be different though, you likely only have 5 screw types in any model you're working on. Meters, I agree. Still not going to spend the money on the Fluke I want though. I don't make money with it, so it's not worth it (it's a luxury in my trade, not a necessity).

And anything Knipex I've used is worth the money. Their Cobra and Plierswrench lines are amazing. Great quality, and they do their jobs VERY well.

@zgames9400 I think he was referring to the multi-bit drivers. The ones woth the 2 sided bits woth the detent ball in the middle.

I just dealt with the same thing an old Maytag washer wouldn’t budge it finally took us 2 hours to get the basket out

Thats an entirely different wish list, but a good one to do as well. But I don't do sealed systems... Yet. Well, not legitimately at least

Neat!

the irony is I got appliance guys that wanna go into game repair. Its all identical.

Cool, I’m going to clean my dryer hose tomorrow and I have a gas blower so I will duck tape it to inlet and fire it up 😊😊😊😊

Robertson are tapered, square drive are not. Robertson screws are rare outside of Canada because Robertson wouldn't sell the rights to Henry Ford, so Ford went with Phillips.

I have a number of Robertson screw drivers, plus some Robertson-head bits that can be switched out of the ratcheting screw drivers I own. Some are tapered, some are not; but they're all Robertson. Thanks for the info re Henry Ford. I didn't know that. :)

That's legitimately a terrible recommendation. My first recommendation for a rusted screw would be Kano Kroil (or WD-40, if you don't have it) and a little effort with your favorite manual driver. However, if that doesn't work, I'd use either a corded drill or an actually good cordless drill to drill it out. The thing is, finding a decent cordless drill is hard to do. This is probably why you resorted to buying a cordless impact driver in the first place. Cordless drills are mostly pathetic. The ones that actually stand up to their corded counterparts cost twice as much, easily. A basic corded Kobalt drill (Lowe's brand, which is considered the lowest bar of barely acceptable on a construction site) should be more than powerful enough to rip the head off of most screws/bolts, much less drill through them. Generally speaking, I'd consider power tools overkill for taking apart or putting together any appliance. I mostly use manual drivers when working on appliances to avoid stuff like cross threading, over tightening and stripping screws/bolts. I can't tell you how many times I had to work hard to extract a screw without stripping it because some jack-wagon over-tightened it with a powered tool. However, a hammer drill (these things are powerful enough to drill through concrete but are still less powerful than an impact driver) would be severe overkill for working in an appliance. I'd hate to think how badly you can destroy an appliance trying to take screws in and out with an impact driver. As for the Kaiweets, it's hard to get detailed info on it and I've never used it myself but it seems okay. For basic appliance and electrical troubleshooting, it should get the job done. You'll probably want to get an actually good meter like a Brymen/Greenlee later on for improved accuracy, features and construction.

Drible tool is handy also

Pinning it with my Elbow or knee while I stretch it and watching it pop out of the groove is my jam

​@@stevenlauzon7031 haha I feel this

I vote for using a cheap soldering bulb too!

Somehow, I don't have issues where I have a pair of vampliers or another brand, but I agree that its probably the #1 tool I omitted.

‘Bent nose terminal removal pliers’ sound like a godsend, but googling doesn’t show any results that look like they’d help safely remove some of the acu connections. Could you provide a link or example? Thank you in advance!

Had both, forgot to have them in the video. There's probably 4-5 items I forgot at least

Cap brim light led

Gremlins get them!

Every glove box has one , lolo

Respectfully there are many types and you'd have to be more specific on brand. I don't have any videos yet but do plan on making some for some brands

It didn’t stop my twin grandsons from removing the back panel My wife wrore there butts out and it’s my fault I let them watch me fix stuff It’s all ways my fault lolol

Harbor Freight sells an excellent set

Generally there isn't an easy way to do it on modern ones

You have soap build-up in the pressure chamber 99.9 % of the time or a leak wear the hose is rubbing. The pressure switch is a work or fail device.

Giving a model number would be helpful. My best guess is the case brake needs replaced. It's on the left hand side, outer shell (if your model came with one). The new machines are switching to those instead of the reliable float switch. It could also be a control board. Try turning off your breaker for a few minutes and turning it back on to reboot the board.

I have a few videos already

@@bensappliancesandjunk make a full cycle with 3 shirts on the quick wash with the 3Hs please.

That is dependent on your area of coverage. The more people you can service the more money you can make. But it isn't difficult to make well into the high 5 figures to low 6 figures - again location dependent. It would also help if you worked on refrigerators and their sealed systems - but that is a speciality position requiring licensing by the EPA.

There's no one answer, but any decent tech should be making $80k+ a year and can live wherever he wishes. Everyones fighting for techs nationwide.

@@bensappliancesandjunk I so wish this were true in the area that I live. If you don't own your own business you're making $15/hr to $25/hr max.

@MichaelCater somethings wrong then. Either your staff isn't screening out bad calls or dispatch isn't efficient. Any decent tech should be turning 6+ calls a day at a 50% diag split. So $250-300 a day in pretty much any area.

@@bensappliancesandjunk Oh you misunderstand - that's what people are getting paid by most companies hiring today. Our business is a company of 2 (my wife and I) and we're doing just fine. Its the industry around this neck of the woods that pays dismally. You can make a LOT more money going solo here than you can working for someone else.

I've been using the same $50 drill for 4 years so I've had a much different experience than you

Same here, been using my dewalt impact every day for 5 years. Thousands of drywall screws and still going, well worth the $200

Inefficient hose design

It requires the spanner nut wrench for tub replacement I believe

Yep!

Because they aren't getting used so frequently that they get destroyed in short order