To everyone with the negative comments and\or claiming the engine is toast, read "strattuner"'s comment. He has 47 years of experience with engines & transmissions. This engine can easily be rebuilt since 95% of the damage was in the bearings, which is exactly why the bearings are built of a softer material. A bit of machining, new bearings & a re-ring kit is about all that is needed to get this engine operational again. Maybe magna flux to check for cracks from the overheating as well, which is usually done with a hot tank cleaning & boring/honing. But to each his own. I gave my son a 2001 300m with this engine & it's at about 245,000 miles now & still plenty of life left in it. Never had anything other than Mobile-1 oil in it. I'm a big fan of the 300's, way ahead of their time. Good job on the teardown Matt & keep up the good work. Always fun to see exactly what caused a failure.

I'm a master of 47 years,trans and engines were my specialty,this engine is made good,i can see by watching your video that the 3.2 and 3.5 has a lot of superior design,the bearings were into the copper,that means that the guy driving the car changed oil,never,oil is a flush,it always has been,this engine looked good on the bores and pistons,id' of sent the crank out had it turned,KING BEARING OUT OF ISRAEL is now making main and rod bearings for a 0.080 cut,that means that you never weld these flimsy cranks just turn them down till they are out of spec,they are also ohc hemi engines,when cutting the cranks on these small engines,tighten the lower end up to 0.0017 on mains and rods,tight means they will not hammer,the hammering is what speeds up the show of copper,i'd change oil religiously every 3500 miles and throw on a lot of filters,like one every 2000 then add a quart,the belts should be changed every 80k to 125k depending on how you stay off the throttle,i really enjoyed your video,first one to show complete teardown,you learn it all on teardown

I work on these motors and your teardown video was very informative. For people who are having a engine knock and are wondering where the problem is coming from, your video gives people a look where the problem is. Thank you for taking the time to this the video.

Rule #1 with these engines. When it comes time to change the timing belt put a fresh water pump in. You're already there anyway. Working on an engine at home in the garage. Get a cheap blow molded kiddis pool. Make a riser from some lumber and you've got a catch pan. In the 90s Chrysler proped a sport racing spec class to the SCCA and IMSA (?) That used the 3.5 drive train out of the Intrepid. If somebody's building a kit car the engine and transaxle would make a nice package. Even stock in a light chassis you'd have a decent power to weight ratio. To my knowledge these engines never got a lot of love (if any) in the tuner market. The bottom end is pretty strong. 4 main bolts with two cross bolts. Structural windage tray and oil pan. One piece front and rear seals.

There is also 3 rubber orings that need to be changed on the back of timing cover when you do the timing belt..it is very critical to change it

Those head gaskets are graphite coated and that's the stuff that transfers to the head. It makes a great seal, especially on pitted heads but its tough to change out. Fel-pro has a different style coating, more of a rubber clad.

My 99 Chrysler 300m has a 3.5 original motor . Just rolled over 400,000 miles . It's called regular maintenance . If your failed it on you .

i heard he found out later the car just needed gas

I thought for a moment that you were trying for a rebuild, but after seeing what was left of it, I agree, that short block is toast. There is not a lot of room for machining on those blocks, so another short block would be the only fix. I haven't seen 1 wipe out bearings that bad that still ran and had oil pressure. Hard to say exactly what happened when, but it seems that multiple overheating, plus coolant in the oil, wiped out the bearings, which caused lower oil pressure, and created a domino effect. Hope you made some dough off the scrap :)

I think you could have extended your oil change interval out to like 20,000 and every three years because that motor on the bottom and looked really good

This a reminder to change your oil religiously, those people who say you can wait 10,000 miles are nuts, oil is cheaper than a new engine, I do mine every 3 to 4k, I have 284,000 on my 3.8 engine in my lesabre with no problems, you can barley hear the engine running.

That engine was run without oil. Every bearing is toast. That one piston was slapping a valve because of extreme clearance on that one rod bearing.

Can't wait to watch this tonight! This should be a part of an MBA course. You should do the 2.7 nightmare too. Maybe another title for this would be, " How to destroy your reputation in business by outsourcing all the talent".

My 04 M Special (K motor) when I pulled it at 120k. For a fact, I ran it hot twice, months apart, though gauge never actually made it to the H (no telling as there was no coolant touching sending unit for it to read). Hint for me was a slight rod knock that was only present on the first start after oil change, which would then go away after a a few rotations of the engine. Ran this way on full syn oil for 30k until it eventually locked. Leave it 5 min and you could run it again. My motor looked worse than yours. Entire bottom end and front of left head/rocker asm were red/brown colored. All bearings in bottom wiped. Had to pry crank to free. Several cam lobes were scored. In the end, swapped with 60k used motor from standard M (G motor). Great coverage. Lots of info!

I missed why you had to scrap the block. I didn't see where any bearings spun in the block, which would be the only damage there. I didn't see any scored cylinders. You can usually have cylinders honed to 30 mil over and fit new pistons. If the crank was damaged, you can have it ground down a bit and use thicker oversized bearings. The factory even did that occasionally back in the 1960's during engine production. They would mark such blocks with a Maltese Cross or such.

The bearings are actually supported to have a groove so it is lubricated all the way around

Kick ass teardown vid, Matt! Wow those bearings were HAMMERED huh? Looks like the ones further downstream from the oil pump really got beat up bad lol... So in this case, that glitch we saw on the crank sensor may actually have been physical movement from the bearing slop! Might as well throw a clean low-mileage engine back in and ship it :)

Looks like your oil filter did a good job of collecting the swarf etc. Usually a bad engine would have metal shavings inside the shells. I think you may get away with a crank grind and oversized shells...as you know probably not worth it.

Didn’t watch your original videos but sounds like the OE gasket was a MLS gasket. It’s all metal and doesn’t leave a mess behind like the graphite gasket you used.

I reused the mls head gaskets on my buds 01 rt intrepid.it had bent valves from a timing belt failure.It has a additional 40 or so k no problems

antifreeze leak into oil will destroy bearings. The damage was on all the bearings so likely from a slow leak.

Thanks Matt, I can see your zeal there. Thanks for the video. After being rebuilt, the baby will run perfect again. Love the Chrysler....

Its honestly looking like there was some type of grit in your oil at some point. Bad filter for sure. Good and informative video ty. I'm looking to rebuild one of these for my magnum soon.

is it not odd that the pistons popped right out past the cylinder ridge??

Those were powerful engines. My mom had a 95 intrepid and it had some serious balls for what it was.

buy a torque wrench, buy the right manual for the engine your working on, follow the instructions, measure things like engine bore and crankshaft gauge because you never know whats been machined before or if there has been wear. replace bearings and valve seals ect whilst you have the engine apart, always use a new head gasket. I noticed you where loosening bolts with power tools, you should use a breaker bar which will allow you to break the torque on the bolts slowly and is way better if bolts are rusty in any way. It's awesome that you want to learn about engines, just be careful driving with an engine that hasn't been properly built is very dangerous. I agree with an earlier comment they said keep your engine. everything looked great to me you just need to rebuild to factory specifications and take measurements and buy plus size rings and bearings where needed. even if it isn't perfect if you have everything torqued corectly than an engine failure will more than likely be safely contained. Good luck man, fixing cars is a very rewarding hobby and i respect your desire for personal developement/ self learning. thanks

At 14:00 , looks like the bearing swallowed something it should not have . In addition to wear down to the copper . The rest of them were pretty much as bad or worse . Looking at the oil on the rods and pistons , the oil did not look that great . Do not know if that was a factor ? Very educational video . Wyr God bless

Poor maintenance is the problem...

I got 786 405 miles from the same engine.

Antifreeze in the oil. This is all the result of the overheating episodes. The oil pump may have failed but likely it was clogged up by the debris from the bearings making a bad situation much worse.

Looks like a well built motor in terms of 4v valve-train, belt timing, and main caps.

If a motor comes with a metal gasket anywhere or a MLS head gasket from the factory never replace it with that horrible graphite style gasket. It's cheap BS just like you suspected. Not only do you get the mess, it does not maintain the clamp load in all areas like the MLS style and will lead to leaks and loose bolts in the long term. The only benefit to the graphite style is that you can get away with more surface imperfections. Take the time to prep the surface properly and use a better gasket. All metal gaskets require a better surface finish. Such a waste of labor in the long run with cheap gaskets. Also that motor was run low on oil or had oil pump problems. I would guess low oil level. Thing is dry as hell in many places

The Old Adage "You Get What You Pay For" is usually correct with anything you buy.

Nice tear down. Looks like engine was run low on oil or just didn't have oil changed regularly.

no oil flow to the bearings looks like. fracked the crank and egged the rods. new rods/piston assemblies and turned crank would be a good idea. hi volume hi pressure oil pump is also recommended.

I worked on cylinder heads for a looong time. different gaskets work different. the residue is normal for a lot of them.

what is the mileage of the motor?

70% of these comments are people condescendingly explaining how he’s doing everything wrong

educational and scary at the same time. You never really know Whats going on in your block.

Timing gear🙂 and those spark plugs look new although the gap looks a bit big.

Interesting video, the culprit is of course the damaged main bearing, the question is how did such damage occur to the main bearing in the first place?

Thanks for the video. Unless my hearing aids missed it, did you mention how many miles were on this engine?

awesome video, hope to see a rebuild video soon. that would be cool

I have a 3.5 liter dodge. I have 172.k miles. I run 10w40 Quaker State . I never race the engine, easy accel onto highway. No stomping onto the accelerator. But the clock spring is not working the best. Engine light on and off about every 12 starts.

I think that's what happens when you run your motor out of oil and overheat it cool video

An awesome video on how NOT to dismantle an engine!

Can I follow this steps if I want to tear down a 3.6 out of a 2012 charger?

This happens when you don't use a micrometer to check the crank diameter before a rebuild. Someone had this crankshaft turned .010 -.030" to clean up gouges/scratches/imperfections on the throws, and maybe the mains also. Then someone else used "standard" bearings.. Probably rods are weakened, crank is trashed(?), and pistons weakened also.KAPUT!

thank you I live in Massachusetts I don't know where you live but I am looking for a mechanic I'm going to have to get the timing belt and all that stuff done but I thoroughly enjoy your videos and just subscribed thank you for your time you answered my question I really appreciate it

Had a friend with a new product called Engine New, suppose to add metal to the worned parts, to improve compression which it did, but during a flood at work the custom ram air scoops sucked water into the Carb. and the engine stop in a puttle, even the Towl company could not get the rear wheels to move. Later during tear down the engine New product reacted violently to water rusting the crank solid all the bearing needed to be cold chisseled from the block. one solid rust junk! Yea! Great Product?

I don't look at crank bearings every day either, but every one of them seems to be straw colored. When I made a bunch of knives a few years ago, I learned that it takes about 450 degrees to get steel to straw color, so that engine has been really, really hot. I believe they are supposed to run around 170-180. I believe you said something to Ivan about your girlfriend overheating it to failure three times, so I guess that explains the straw color.

where can you get the connecting rod bolts

so what caused the bearings to fail?.. lack of oiling coolant in the oil..etc ?

Quick question is there a oil galley plug on the oil pump by chance

Clear and simple....oil starvation. The block needs to be hot tanked and all oil passages painstakingly cleaned front-to-back and top-to-bottom....

I'm sorry if this sounds stupid, but does this tear down walk through also work for the 97 3.5? I just bought a 1997 eagle vision TSI and instantly fell in love with it. I'm really wanting to tear it down and rebuild it. Thanks for the informative video!

Block is going to Junkyard, Crankshaft can be use in an Alternative Block if found?

All of the You-tube certified technicians......Makes me laugh.

Bro when using a numatic, use pulses to remove bolts; dont just hold the hammer action down or risk rounding bolts.

Hi there Matt! I have two question about your Chrysler 300m. How many miles did it have on it when the motor started knocking. The other is I have a bumping noise when I run over bumps. I seen your video about the tie rod and I have replaced them a while back my question is what else could it be. I have not replace the struts yet but i was told it was the rack pinion, sway bar. But It seem like they were guessing. and hell I can do that myself. Just want to see if you had the same issue with your 300. I have an 2002 300m. How is that ryboi impact wrench is it worth the money. I seen it in your engine tear down video. Thinking about buying one.

Put a half a quart of non detergent transmission fluid in it drive it about 50 miles when you tear the motor down it will be clean as a whistle I use it in all of my vehicles before every oil change

I find out that the 2000 Concord's , 300M's and the LHS have no re-sale value. I just bought a 2001 LHS for $300.. Will it take me from Salt Lake City to Orlando and back again? The LHS has 172,567 miles on it , please share your opinion. I leave on May 3rd and must be back in S.L.C. by May 14th !

unhook those keys from your belt when you do major work like this

He needs to be found new worlds hell no cap

You should never put in or take out bolts in a aluminum block with an impact.

Years ago I drove an Intrepid with a 3.3L that gave me 140,000 trouble free miles. I'd like to get another but heard the 3.5L suffers from too small oil passages and too small egr resulting in oil sludge/bad lubrication.

From what i can see it would appear that you have an OIL FALURE, or a lack of oil

The rod bearing are all totally wiped out. Why?

Matt, how many miles on the 3.5 before this failure?

Wish you lived around Philly and can help me rebuild my 3.5L 04 Pacifica! It should be fun!

why not rebuild the block ?

27:41 So what caused it? Oil pump failure? relief valve ? blocked pick up? lack of oil?

Would you be able to push that engine on that mount up a smooth driveway slope

Best way is rebuilt the engine is a lot money but you have a brand new engine

I have a 2006 3.5 L Chrysler 300 engine which was hydro locked and has been sitting. What is the most likely thing I would have to try and fix?

If you will put about a half a quart of laundry detergent transmission fluid and the oil and drive it normally for about 50 miles and then drain the oil when you go to tear the motor down it will be clean as a whistle I do it before every oil change on all my vehicles

24 Valve SOHC V6 with a timing belt? What were the engineers smoking when they made this pile of shit?

HI ARE YOU SWAPPING WITH STANG BEARING OR UNDERSIZE? THANK YOU

bearings look like lack of lubrication how many miles?

The result of driving it like you stole it lol

Could replace the crank and bearings to fix this issue? Think my car did the same thing.

I have a 09 Dodge Challenger with the 3.5 liter ho is that a good motor so far I've only had it for 3 months so I really don't know a whole lot about it I don't know if that motor is the same as what I have just curious of your thoughts on that motor I am not drag racing it so I don't pretend it is something that it's not like a SRT so no burnouts or anything like that just a daily driver cruising I have the 3.6 in the 2013 Town and Country I know it seems like that's a better engine but just hopefully it's not a stupid question but with the proper maintenance and everything else is it a good motor your opinion

How many miles on that engine? What was your oil pressure?

First off every single rod that you moved had playing it it shouldn’t when you Took the first rod cap off you could see the copper which means the bearing is worn out no you can’t seeing the client down it needs to be turned. I can resize rods And get a crank kit

Lot's of melt-able pieces. Block and covers, oil pump, heads (unless they clean up). Pistons and rockers are different & better alloys than the block.

Nice big job good luck?

is it me or did the rocker arms look different colors on the 2 different banks.

I THINK ALL CHRYSLER MOTORS ARE THAT WAY! ON A 2.7 EVEN WITH NEW BEARINGS, IT WAS KINDA LOOSE COMPARED TO MY FORD BEARINGS!!! ID JUST INSTALL NEW BEARINGS & PUT IT ALL BACK 2GETHER

What did u do with the car?

Oh Crap don't get rid of that block it really looks great. Get some new bearings and crangshft. Oh My what a builders cdhoice. I would like to buy all these parts. Don

What a wrecked bottom-end!

That you see is not residue that is the gasket sealing that is good nothing wrong with them gaskets

If I was going to put a head gasket on that kind of engine I would use Indian Head it makes head gaskets easy

That engine was toast, I suspect a stuck oil pressure relief valve, coolant or fuel in the oil or complete negligence on oil changes...it had to be giving warnings something was wrong,there was no oil film and clearly this KZfaq mechanic doesn’t even know that at least one main spun,possibly more he didn’t know what he was looking for.

composite gaskets are made to cover a multitude of sins tha people foist upon their sealing surfaces. that's why the residue left on the surfaces. metal gaskets are used where the mating surfaces are close to perfect like when heads and block are decked.

Thank you for this video.

I would like to see the oil pump inside. that engine looks like the oil pump failed. The bearing look like they were starved for oil.

maybe your crankshaft has been machined before and you put standard bearings in without measuring the gauge of the crankshaft at the big end.

That was a really cool video!

can it be fixed?