Pro Tip for excess glue removal. Don’t wipe it off while it’s still wet because that will spread it into the surrounding wood and will be harder to remove and may even ruin your finish. Instead let the glue dry as it is and once dried it is easily peeled or scraped off without staining any excess would.

I was a glue/veneer specialist for most of my life and I think you did a great job. You might want to mention waterproof, and water resistant glues for exterior applications. And also, what kinds of glues will stick to oily woods like teak and how the application of denatured alcohol on the surface to be glued will remove the surface oil and prepare the piece for the application of the glue. It has been my experience that the wood should be clamped very tight. Those water based glues like you were using, tend to shrink as they dry. When brushing on the glue, brush in both directions to work the glue into the pores. Brushing in one direction will pull the glue out of the pores. Polyurathane glues like Gorilla glue will expand as it dries so you need to be carefull or you will have a mess to clean up. Because it expands, you won't need to worry about a tight clamp. If gluing something thin, it's alway best to use a backer board that covers the entire area and be sure the clamps are in close proximitry so you squeese out the glue. You can coat the backer with any kind of wax like butchers wax and the glue will not stick to it. What you did with the screws on the end was great and is exactly how I use to do it. Another neat trick is to increase the surface area by using a spline or a bisquit. If you look at your kitchen cabinets, they are probably made that way meaning they are routered in a way to increase the surface area to be glued. I enjoy watching your videos and I hope I was able to add some additional, useful information. God Bless Bob

I've been team Titebond III for wood for years now. It's waterproof, FDA approved for food contact, non-toxic, has a decently long working time and is the strongest of Titebond's three basic glues. It depends on who your audience is, where whatever you're building is going to be used and who's going to be using it. I build a lot of cutting boards and coasters which are going to both going to into contact with food and water. I also build a lot of toys for kids in the family and cabinets, tables, storage benches and other bits that are going to be used by family, friends and most destructively their kids. One thing little kids all do for a time is put their mouths on everything and spill food on things and then pick it up and eat it without a thought as well. I don't want a little nephew to be sucking on a toy train (he has) or eating of of his train table (again, he has) and worry about him getting sick because of the glue I used.

That wood-breaking demonstration blew my mind - what a great way to show the power of a good glue bond! Also, I love that you called it "feeling frisky" about only waiting 30 min for glue to dry! Love your videos.

silicone brush: waaaayyyy more fun than washing a paint brush. thanks!!

this video is going to stick with me for sure.

I can't imagine why 217 people disliked this. It's clear and informative and fast-paced. I'm not a fan of backgound music in how-to videos, but at least, in this one, it doesn't drown out the voice.

Awesome video, Steve. But you missed a great opportunity. At about 4:54 you mentioned using a brad nailer to act as clamps during the bonding process. And how brads leave visible holes to deal with later. Although this is not a gluing technique, it is a great tip to hide those nail holes. I'm sure you know this tip. But you may have some viewers who don't. Add a small drop of wood glue to the nail holes and run an orbital sander over the area. As it sands, it forces the sand particles into the nail holes and covers them completely. And because you are sanding the piece with holes in it, the matches the wood shade perfectly. Thanx for your great videos, Steve. I watch them all.

To recover nails holes, i usually use the powder i sanded from the wood itself, mixed with a transparent glue, works like a charm.

A tip for removing excess squeezed-out glue is to use a damp or even quite wet cloth - you will remove excess far more effectively and do much less sanding once it's dry. Glue will also be less likely to be absorbed into the grain of the piece you are making, which can be visible when varnishing or oiling later in the project and almost impossible to remove at that stage.

he’s so happy when removing the glue from itself i love it

I could watch a microjig skit compilation video all day. The way you do them really gives a chuckle.

Just a few additions from my side: Instead of just using a dry cloth, use a damp cloth. Removes the glue much better and easier. Use something like cotton only, other materials will leave fluffs behind. Don't use paper towels, really messy. When using wood glue, clamping can be difficult because the surfaces 'skate' away. Some people use 'biscuits' or dowels to prevent that. Another good, very simple and cheap technique, is using tiny little nails. Just hammer the nails in one side, cut off the heads and join the two wood pieces together. One type of glue I am missing in this video which is widely used in (mostly cabinet like) constructions is PU glue (or construction/foam glue). It's is not the nicest glue to work with, because it is extremely sticky (so use gloves or be careful!). PU glue expands and therefor is very useful to tighten joints like recessed , dovetail joints etc. Real professional products (like big PA loudspeakers etc) are mostly glued with this. Wood glue can be perfectly used for veneering. Just roll glue on veneer and piece of wood and let it dry for 10-25 minutes (until it's is just sticky/almost dry), meanwhile heat up an iron. Ones the iron is warm enough, just put the two pieces together and press firmly on the iron, the heat reactivates the glue. Now just simply go over the whole surface area and finish with a roller. Wood glue can be used to repair (old) paper loudspeaker cones. Use paper towel and pull/rip it in little pieces. Mix the wood glue with a tiny bit of water. Put some glue/water mix on the gap/crack with a little brush. Now add the little pieces of paper towel and cover them up again with some glue/water mix. Let it dry for 12-24 hours. This only works for small gaps and don't use toilet paper (it contains some strange kind of glue that doesn't dissolve) Last funny little detail. Wood glue looks yellowish in the USA, in Europe (and many other parts of the world) it's white colored. (dries up transparent)

Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) glues like basic school glue and basic wood glue, are plastic polymers emulsified in water with the help of surfactants and other additives. As the water dries, the plastic polymers congeal into a continuous plastic film. Unfortunately, the surfactants and such stay with the film. This means that exposing the dried film to water can re-emulsify the polymer to some degree. Higher performance emulsifying technology can reduce the tendency to re-emulsify and that gives us a PVA glue that can withstand soaking in room temperature water. The adhesive industry calls this a Type II adhesive. Further improvements can be had by adding cross linking technology which makes the congealed plastic film much higher in molecular weight than the original emulsified polymer. This makes a PVA glue that can withstand being soaked in boiling water. Confusingly, the adhesive industry calls this a Type I adhesive. Titebond III is a Type I adhesive with crosslinking technology.

I have to say, 9 and a half minutes on wood glue I thought this was going to be a waste of time but, you nailed it

Old video, but still gold. Very details and helpful. Thank you Steve.

Another thoughtful, concise explanation. I really appreciate it, Steve!

Steve, your videos continue to form the basis of my woodworking education. Thank you for the great work!

Very informative video. I am not a master woodworker yet but I am a master wood glue peeler like yourself. There is just something satisfying about peeling wood glue off of fingers and brushes. Glad to see that I am not the only weirdo out there. Excellent video.

Best wood working channel on KZfaq !

The more I know, the more I realize I don't know. You made this very clear to me with your glue video! Thanks for the education. It was fun and educational. Thank you!

Great tips and I really like your energy, that makes for a very interesting video about a subject that could be otherwise boring.

Absolute dude. This channel "Does what it says on the tin" (not sure if that makes sense to anyone other than UK viewers?) Thanks for sharing your years of woodworking experience with us. A+

I am enjoying all these tips on glue. I am a 72 yr woman and love to work with wood. These tips will come in handy for me

You, sir, are an excellent teacher. Thanks! 😊

your intros are one of the few intros I actually enjoy!

This may sound odd, but you totally remind me of Phil’s dad off of modern family. I love how upbeat you always are. I hope I can teach my kids as well as this. Hopefully we will be done building our beginners workshop by the end of the month

I was glued to this video from beginning to end :)

I use wood glue to remove tiny cactus thorns from my hand or fingers. Put some over the thorn, let it dry and peal it off with the thorns attached. I wished it worked on wood splinters under the fingernail, ouch.

Great video. You answered questions I didn't know I had.

2:40 You might enjoy those videos where they clear out stubborn blackheads. Oddly satisfying!

Crestabond M1-05 is by far the strongest adhesive I've ever used. If you need to glue 2 different materials together, this is your stuff. and its pretty inexpensive and comes in a 2 part tube, you can leave the top off indefinitely and it wont go off until you mix the 2 parts. Wood to metal, metal to fibreglass, fabric to fibreglass. Just 10 minutes curing time and your done. It can act as a filler too, if you've got a gap of 4 or 5 mm to fill, slap it on and let it cure, sand it off, job done. Fantastic stuff!

Thanks so much for this series Steve. I am just getting into wood working and despite many claims out there of videos that state they are for beginners there really aren't many that systematically and comprehensively cover the topics you are covering here. Keep up the great work good sir!

You forgot to mention the glue that holds us all together every Friday Steve, that would be you and WWMM! Thanks again Steve.

The analogy with the straws was really helpful, thanks

As a beginnger this was unbelievably helpful, thank you!

thanks for the end grain tip..never knew that!!🤔😆

Love your information. glueing up a series of small wood for box. I found using a sharp puddy knife to run along the glued surface removes almost all the glue especially if surfaces are not even you can run along the lower surface and get it "all." Also cutting a plastic straw at a 45˚ angle can be used to move along the glue line and remove it cleanly.

I found this video to be oddly more satisfying than I expected, very nice.

really enjoy your videos. one thing i learned when i would be in my grandfathers shop watching him, he used saw dust from the wood he was working on ( scrap piece, sand with some 80 grit) and mix it with wood glue and use it as a putty to fill the nail holes. it stains the same color and never knew the difference.

Tip: When buying glue or an epoxy, make sure you know whether it dries clear or not. I bought something recently that dried yellow.

You should teach teachers how to teach !! so simple ,so clear , BRILLIANT !!

One of the tricks I have learned is, when gluing up a project that will be finished, first take tape, often box tape, and cover the sides of the joint. Just dry-fit the pieces together, clamp them lightly, and put the tape on. Press it firmly into place with a plastic scraper, then cut the tape along the joint. Then glue and clamp as normal. Dry-wipe the glue from the joint, then you can remove the tape to give a nearly perfect edge to finish. Just a quick touch with a sander and it's ready for finish.

No seconding guessing or fussing over multiple options over small differences. Just go straight to the solution in each distinctive situation. Well done!

I like this type of videos, it would be nice if you could make more of them.

"The strongest is probably a pocket screw." You just *had* to poke the bear, didn't you? XD

Steve I'm just a bit of a shop hacker in wood working and don't have much space in my garage shop but I do appreciate all of your help . Most of my projects are for Halloween or Christmas props , but each time I watch one of your videos I'm learning something .Thank You ARNOLD.

Man i had no clue there was so much to consider when it comes to glue. Who knew. This guy, this guy knew when it came to glue.

Glue and gluing is an essential component of woodworking. It's not exactly something that requires a lot of skill or technique, but I have a few tips that should get you started. Here's what you need to know about glue: the BASICS. Do you have a favorite adhesive? Let us know what works well for you and if you have any gluing tips and tricks to share.

I do a lot of fretwork with my scrollsaw, and often want to mount a piece of fretwork onto a piece of contrasting background. If I try to apply the glue with a brush or my fingers, the glue tends to run down into the holes where it is almost impossible to clean up. I have found the best tool for this is a four inch paint roller. Pour some glue onto a scrap piece of Plexiglas, and load up your roller. Then you can very quickly roll on an even layer of glue over the whole piece, and if you do it right, you will get almost no squeeze-out. Then I place the whole thing between two pieces of 3/4" plywood and set a bucket of sand on top as a weight/clamp. Make sure that your plywood pieces are dead flat, and that your glued surfaces do not slide around as you handle them. This is also a useful technique when you want to glue the flat sides of two boards or plywood together, because, with the roller, you can apply a lot of glue to a very large area before it starts to dry.

One of the most professional video makers on the channel. Well planned and edited. So refreshing.

This has become one of my favorite channels in less than a day! Love your enthusiasm and can't wait to get started.

Hey, Steve, an observation from my own (admittedly, limited experiences) so far. I suspect that if you live in high-humidity areas (Florida, SE Texas) that you probably want to use Tite Bond III over TB-II. It has to do with the way the two work, which is in opposition to each other. TB-II gives up moisture to the air to dry. In FL, where I am, it was 75 degrees out -- in the middle of winter -- and 45% humidity, which is about as low as the humidity gets. I was trying to do a glue up with TB-II, and, after **36h of setting**, it was still WET INSIDE... needless to say, it was failing miserably. Part of that was that the wood was damp, too, because... humidity, again. But I had done a lap joint, using a router to remove half of each board... So there was a lot of surface area to be grabbed. No luck. TB-III, otoh, works by absorbing moisture. The glue up I was doing was set inside 3-4 hours, and had a good, strong bond. The downside (as you no doubt are aware) is that it "foams", meaning it'll need some additional after-cleaning/prep, which is no doubt a pain but not as much as waiting two weeks to actually complete the setting process. This isn't a complaint, I just thought your viewers might want to be aware of this if they happen to live in one of those areas, or anywhere else where humidity runs at not much under 50%. I suggest they try TB-III in those areas.

Not many things more satisfying than picking dry or half-dry wood glue.

Your example of your glue bond was with soft wood splitting across the grain. I used to be a professional picture framer. We used Cornerweld brand glue. Once had to break down a frame to redo. It was Ash wood, a very hard wood, at least for the moulding we had. When breaking, the ash wood broke instead of the glued miter. For this reason I am very fond of that brand of glue. Expensive for a gallon but worth it. Other picture frame shops using other glues didn’t measure up to it. Important to spread on entire area to be glued.

This channel warms my heart

Cool, I enjoyed the video Steve. I've never heard of Weldbond but it sounds like good stuff!

Hey, Steve! Love the tips you shared. What's your tip for loosing wood glue at joints? I'm building a bathroom vanity and there is a piece I need to remove and reattach without it being crooked. Any tips?? Thanks!!

One of the best DIY helpful videos I've seen in a long time (and I watch a lot!), exceptional production quality and so much fantastic information packed into such a short time. Thank you so much.

I appreciate your instructions and pointers. I especially like your evaluations on why you choose one product over another.

“Sir this is the 8th time this month we have had to replace your debit card”

A drinking straw does a good job of cleaning glue out of corners and tight places . Just crease the straw so it has a sharp point glue goes into the staw. clean the straw by squeezing the straw on every joint

Thanks a lot for this detailed video with so much information in 9 minutes. Very useful for a beginner!

You have made homeownership so much easier for me! Thank you, Steve!!

apart from being great woodworker you're also hilarious! I love you man!

The Microjig cut scene makes me crack up every time. Every. Single. Time.

You are the Bill Nye of woodworking. I have been binge watching your videos and it's been awesome. Thanks for making these.

your videos are like the notes one take then goes back to them when needed. I've been returning to this one over and over again alongside with the other intimate videos. . شكرا جزيلا

can u do a video on types of sanding methods and types of sanders plz.

can you do a video on wood glue vs construction adhesive?

This channel is so great. I am a newbie when it comes to wood working but I am enjoying it so much and with this channel it makes it nice to be able to find answers from someone so nice and knowledgeable

Great video! Thanks for taking the time to do these.

PVA is a white substance that seems to be used on a lot of projects -- it's used as paper glue, for sealing fresh plaster prior to painting, and as a wood glue. In the UK it is the most readily available product for those sorts of uses. I've never seen Titebond for sale in my local hardware store. Have you ever used PVA, I notice it was not amongst your array of bottles in the video. So do you know how it compares to other wood glues such as Titebond?

Hey Steve, You were talking about that you can't fill nail holes to match the wood. Well an old Indian trick is... to use the saw dust from the wood that you're using mixed with a little glue. Your nail holes, once sanded, will accept the stain and become invisible.

Your channel is simply AMAZING! I'm glad to find it.

What a great video! I play this for my 6th graders before we start woodworking. Goes over so much of the fundamentals of woodworking. Thanks for making this.

If parts slip while trying to clamp sprinkle on some table salt. The parts won't move. Great video.

you can use salt while your gluing things up to make sure that the wood doesn't slide around while you work on it.

One of your BEST VIDEO's, I really enjoyed it... I am gluing a cracked leg on a small piece and learned everything I needed to know from this video!!! Thank you!!!!

Thank you so much for these videos. I’m brand new to woodworking and these are helping me to have the confidence to start some projects.

you can use tape or rubber bans to clamping the wood

while the woodglue is still wet you can wipe it off easily with water, mostly you don't have to sand after the glue dries.

You have answered so many of my questions, thank you!

I have become a fan of your videos, as a newbie to wood working, your presentation style makes the subject more interesting and I retain more than the dry presentation of others. Who would guess I would enjoy a video on "glue" ???

for filling the small holes i would put a dab of glue in the holes then smear it with sawdust from the same type of timber. then sand it smooth

A bit late to the party I know, but it seems like we should make things out of glue for superior durability ;)

Fantastic teaching visual at minute 5:30. Very helpful for remembering why end grain gluing is tricky.

you always sharing types for any project, your follower not only expert but for beginner very helpfull great job steve

Since getting hooked on woodworking videos a few months ago I've wondered about the wood glue used in North American videos. It's always yellow, while here in South Africa wood glue is always a white glue, also known as cold glue. It is PVA based and dries clear. I've been wondering if it is pretty much the same stuff, and if so why is ours white while yours is yellow?

Steve, watch this video, from Darbin Orvar: Glue Test Destruction - How Different Glues Perform Epoxi is far more stronger than you think haha

Very informative video on gluing. Thanks for sharing.

Your fast and concise. Thanks for the lesson.

also, thanks to my own experimentation, all glue tastes awful...also, i may need a doctor

But what should I use if I want a nice black line along my glue seam?!?!

beginner woodworker here and watching your videos has really helped me out! thanks for the cool videos. I like your enthusiasm

So thorough, holy fudge the high quality explanations. Subscribed~

Aha, sure "satisfying like removing and examining a splinter" Me thinks you're confusing splinter with booger.

:( I want more princess meow meow!!

I use epoxy for a lot of my projects and have a couple of tips: I save the little plastic medicine dosage cups and use them to mix small batches. I get a big bag of bamboo skewers for a $1 and use them for mixing and sometimes for application to small areas (such as wooden fishing lures). I also like to split the two tubes apart as it is easier to get a better 50/50 ratio. The two together never seem to squirt out the same amount or one of the tubes will have an air bubble in it. When the glue has dried in the plastic up, squeeze the cup a couple of times and dried glue will come out and you can use the cup again.

Thanks for specifying environmental impact as a factor in choosing the right glue.