Here's a link to the spreadsheet I made up for quick reference: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/128UnQ0Wt_Fx2icOg2SlUkXEn2G0nOJ_QD7MCnJCLgWM/edit?usp=sharing

I'm just getting into woodworking, so I'm going to adhere to your advice

Why did I just watch a 20 minute video on glue? Why did I enjoy it greatly? These are some of life's many unanswered questions. But I thank you for making it. I look forward to the next.

I dont even care how sponsored this is. Amazingly handy.

super cool thanks! I always use Titebond 3 but by accident though when i was starting out i just figured "3 is more powerful than 1 or 2 I will go with that one"

1 and 2 work for me....never fails...just the best.

Great video as always. Here's what Titebond's Bob Benke told me a few years ago re: their cryptic EXP. date code & some other neat bits of info. My local Ace hard ware had lots of Titebond on sale, but decoding their date codes, I realized they were all 1-4 years old bottles: TITEBOND / FRANKLIN INTERNATIONAL Date code: ex A41201XX: A= American / USA-made 4= 2014 01= DEC 01 XX= BATCH# XX SHELF LIFE: Good TWO years min., but up to FOUR or more; Refrigerated will last 10 years! Titebond II as waterproof, but Titebond III can tolerate 180F and above (beyond boiling/dishwasher) Titebond III gels when bad, looks like cottage cheese; if it comes out and looks creamy, it's good; can add 5% water if it gets thick.

I watched your video while waiting for glue to dry on my cabinet doors. :)

This is exactly the answer I was looking for on Friday Live a couple weeks ago. That chart is perfect! Thanks for the in depth look into glues! Excellent video!!!

Thanks Mark. Always appreciate your efforts in helping us learn to be better

Thank you for this! Incredibly helpful for a new woodworker.

I learned so much from you. You are explaining everything very well. Thank you and God bless you! 🙏

Great intro and insight into the Titebond glue collection. You have provided me with the best all rounder information i needed desperately. You speak clearly and introduced all aspects of each type of glue with working examples at hand. I shall look no further...THANK YOU !!

I wanted to take the time to thank you for this glue video. You answered questions I didn't know I even had, and confirmed a few things I had suspected.

I have watched a lot of videos on a lot of wood working projects and I must say this was the clearest video presentation I think I've ever seen. Thanks.

Mark, incredibly comprehensive video (as usual). Well worth the entire 18+ mins and to keep watching beyond the spoiler alert. Thank you. plus 1 on Titebond III for me.

This is great. I am going to have to remember this so I can go back and reference it. The spreadsheet looks super handy.

Wow I can't tell you how happy I am that you made this video. I've been wondering for a while now what the differences are in all of these. Thank you so much for the chart too. I am keeping it!

Thank you for the very thorough video on the different glues. Very informative. Best one on wood glue that I have watched. Thank you!

Great reference guide. Glue selection is important, so I think it's really helpful to know the pros and cons of the glues I choose. Especially after investing time and money in a project leading up to assembly!

I watched your video just before a massive walnut table top glue up and thank goodness! Was going to use my standby Titebond II but your info on color and working time and ran right out and got some Titebond III. thank you so much!

Just come across your KZfaq channel over here in the UK and would just like to say that you are very good at your job and your videos are a pleasure to watch. Thanks for putting the time and effort in.

After a decade plus of TWW, I thought I knew everything about glue. Thanks for the continued education!

Excellent presentation of glue and glue properties. Answered all my questions. Thank you!!

Over time, I've learned to just suck it up, and clean both the lid and the snap-close top. Saves time later as wet glue simply, quickly, rinses off the lid. Thanks for the run-down and review.

Thank you Marc, that was very informative. My favorite glue is Titebond No-Run No-Drip, comes clear when completely set. The glue set pretty fast (3 mins). I find it perfect for simple assembly or multi-part assembly.

This is SUPER helpful, especially the color test. I've been using TB Translucent

Really useful thank you, with good read across for non-Titebond products too.

Well done and very informative I tend to use titebond 3 by the gal and always have good results. Had big glue up today, mixed glue and sawdust to fill up some jig Ole holes. Doweled is about 20 holes also. Thank you al mydland

Excellent summary Mark , thanks for the SpreadSheet too i know you are a Tite bond Sponsored guy now but one thing i wanted to add about them Is i used their products professionally for over 20 years and they were always very helpful as well as standing behind their products so much that Tite Bond products were the only Wood Glues we used With the only exception of a few other specialty products that other companies produced and Tite bond did not at that time

Great review, TY. I use it all the time. Always wondered about shelf life. I've had old stuff (TB) get thin.

The best info video on wood glue, informative and straight to the point!!!!

BEST VIDEO EVER! I was at home depot the other day and bought type 2 cause price. This video was really helpful to know the differences. Should have got type 3

I make wood boxes and other wood accessories for tabletop games, and the two Titebond glues I currently use are Titebond II Extend, and Titebond Translucent (which you didn't address). My thoughts and observations re: my experience vs. your video: 1) I find both Titebond II Extend and Titebond Translucent dry pretty translucent. Since I'm making boxes with lots of finger joints and tight spaces where it's hard to clean up squeeze out, that's important to me. 2) I find both these glues do a fine enough job adhering to pre-shellacked wood, which I do when customers order their products with shellac inside and out since it's too difficult to get shellac into some of the small nooks & crannies of some of my organizing boxes and certainly too tight to sand those small spaces afterward. Now maybe that's because I'm generous with the glue and fastidious with my clamp up, but I figured I should share. 3) Titebond Translucent is quite thick and viscous. Not sure it's quite as much so as Quick & Thick (bought a bottle once but never got around to using it on a project) but far thicker than the Titebond II Extend. That said, they both dry about the same translucent color. 4) The Extend glues can result in a weird red staining reaction when finished afterward with amber shellac. For products where customers order exterior shellac finishing only, I apply the shellac after assembly. As I said above, I use Titebond II Extend where I need both unobtrusive squeeze out AND long open time. If some of that nearly invisible glue got smudged onto another surface of the wood and I didn't notice it, it can make itself known when I apply amber shellac. Apparently the amber shellac can react with the chemical used to slow the setting of the Extend glues and turn a reddish color. (Another reason to pre-finish the wood when I need to get tight difficult-to-sand spots shellacked). I need to thoroughly sand any surfaces that may have un-seen glue smudges before applying the shellac or else I might find myself sanding a partially finished surface back to bare wood and starting over. 5) Also, for precision application on small fingers and tenons (I usually use 3mm Baltic birch) I use a set of these with my Titebond glues: www.rockler.com/workshop-glue-injector-3-pack. For less precision application, I use this: www.rockler.com/glu-bot-glue-bottle-or-babe-bot-glue-bottle Thanks for the video.

This was incredibly informative! Thanks very much Mark.

An excellent explanation of the different glues that Titebond sells. They have been my go to glue for many years. I always get great results with their products. Thanks for answering my question too. (Don Bullock)

Great video!!! We always have a lot of glue questions at Woodcraft and this will be a great video to point them towards (for those who need a little extra info).

Love you, Mark... What a clear and informative video. Learnt a lot here. Thnks friend 👌👍

One of the best glue videos I've seen. Thanks!

This is a great video ! I am an intermediate woodworker and have learned from this , Thank you for sharing !!

I was just wondering about this the other day, thanks for doing the research for me on the other kinds of glue!

Thanks for the tips! I can attest to the Titebond III dark glue line in maple. I tried Titebond Translucent in the same situation and it was invisible. Great stuff...

Great video Marc. Tons of useful information! Thanks for sharing 👍

Excellent! That cleared up a bunch of questions for me. Thanks!

What a fantastic video, I was glued to my screen!

Here I thought I was watching a video about woodworking glues...instead I got a very long campaign commercial for "Goldie Wilson." HELLO, McFly!!!! Seriously though great information, thanks Marc.

Really nice video- I learned a lot. One tip.. to keep the glue cap clean all you need do is to borrow your wife's water jet tooth cleaner (Water-Pik). Works super well especially if you let your glue bottle sit for some time between projects.

Love this video.For the first time there isn't a video that says to use Titebound 3 only for cutting boards. I mean if you have lots sponsors and can spend the extra money go for. Always love the honest content!!

Thanks for the info. I've had Titebond glue for over a decade, and in a shot that in summer hits 90 degrees and it is still good. Titebond III only lasted a year in the shop before it got lumpy (but, I bought it off of ebay, so no telling how long it was where it was before I bought it.)

Excellent Video and thank you for taking the time to put it together

Thanks for this video! I like to add two products I am using a lot (no, I am not the manufacturer ;)): Bison (or Griffon, its the same) wood max and wood max express (in Dutch "hout max"). Great when there is some sort of a gap and perfect for constructive jobs. Once you used this type of glue, you never go back to polyurethane glue. Extremely strong and no airbubbles like the pu (bad for strength) You might want to check/test this out. Keep up the good work, like your video's. John, the Netherlands.

Wow... this was awesome! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Very impressive video.

Nice job Mark. Very thorough.

Man I wanna get my hands on some of that dark glue! I’d have to order it as stores locally only carry original, II and III. I always used Titebond II for everything. I’ve definitely noticed temperature has a lot to do with dry time. In the Texas summer, I can finish projects very quickly, glue ups are almost totally dry in 30 minutes or less, in the winter, I’ve had even small glue ups take 4 hours or more to dry up enough to keep working.

So much information just to help us , it’s much appreciated, thanks.

Fast, thorough, love it. Subscribed.

Excellent as usual! BTW, I use a toothpick to clean out the nozzle head --- less likely to damage the tip than a slotted screwdriver.

Thanks a lot men, I had to subscribe just watching for a minute and my first time on your youtube channel. Very elaborate explanation

Excelente información de cada uno de los tipos de adhesivo TiteBond. En general solo uno el Ultimate III, pero a veces uso el No-run, No-drip. Cuando pasa el tiempo y se pone grumoso, se puede agregar hasta un 5% de agua limpia, de preferencia caliente. Lo mismo al limpiar la boquilla, agua caliente funciona mejor. Gracias por toda la información, un video ameno. Un saludo desde Guatemala.

Titebond III My go to glue for years. Good information

I've started using home made hide glue for most of my interior projects, it’s got a pretty good history and it’s undoable. After that it’s using a Titebond III, epoxy or CA glue. However, I’m still very much a learner and I'll probably give a different answer next week but it is good fun making your own glue.

Such a great resource. Dispelled some common misconceptions I frequently see. People assume for a cutting board it has to be 3 for example. Or people just use 3 for everything. I'm on a tight budget so I save money wherever I can without sacrificing the integrity of the piece. If I can avoid the more expensive TB3... I definitely will. Dying the color was new to me though. Love that tip

For people new to this: worth saying too that polyurethane is not gap filling, even though it foams up. The foam will fill the gap, but has no strength. If you use clamps then it works a treat.

Awesome info. Thanks Marc!

Nice and informative video. I date my glues and finishes so I can keep better track of them.

This Is great guide. For someone that always just uses pva glue I now understand why people use different types

Great review of Titebond products!

Incredibly helpful. Thanks!

So Titebond 3 for everything... Got it!

This was great! Lots of good info here, thank you.

Great info, thanks! I used gorilla brand poly glue once to glue 1x2 wood strips to the roof of an aluminum shed in a colder(about 10-15 Celcius) environment. After it cured, it held so well I could grab just the wood strip and it held my body weight just fine. Love the poly glue for tricky situations.

Thank you for this video Spags!

Genial, me queda muchísimo mas claro el tema de las diferencias entre los pegantes. De verdad muchas gracias.

Thanks for the info Marc! 😃👍🏻👊🏻

Love the info, and you're easy on the eyes as well

This was incredibly helpful. Thanks!

Great video. I would like to see you do one about clamping pressure required. I see videos where the builder uses an extreme number of clamps and some that just shoot a few pin nails and set it aside to dry.

Great explanation. Thank you for sharing your experience.

I always bump the bottle on the bench then squeeze it and let the air suck in any glue that remains on the tip then close the top. Otherwise you can end up with glue in the gap between the lid and the spout. I do the same thing with the "super-glue" stuff to keep a good tip on the glue bottle. Guess you could say I burp the bottle. :)

I bought this 1Kg glue more than 1 year ago and due to space issues and problems in the family I couldn't use it and it was kept for a long time! Now I went to use it and noticed the formation of several lumps, balls that fall apart when squeezed, it's not that pasty appearance! I did a test on 2 slats of hardwood 1.5 cm high and the glue continued to stick, even if I sawed off the glued slat halfway through, the glue remained!

I'm a big fan of the polyurethane glue, it's become my go-to glue. I don't see the foaming squeeze out as a disadvantage; it's actually one of the reasons I like it. I just take my five-in-one to the foam, then use a card scraper to remove whatever's left.

Excellent video. Excellent shirt!

I’m a TBII guy. Tried the others. Like 2 the best. I am a decoy carver and use the glue to laminate my decoy blocks and glue heads up. TB 2 just seems to hold up better for me in those applications

I have had glue on the self over ten years and still works great! 😁😁👍👍

Tons of good solid information, thank you

You are a great teacher. Thanks.

Love the green bottle. Bought way to much of the blue stuff. Never used the red stuff.

Something I discovered last winter (in SE Alaska), Titebond 1 will partially solidify in the cold and can't be salvaged (gets chunky for lack of a better term). Titebond 2 survived the winter in my shed with no problems. Slightly longer set time, but I generally wrap up for the night when I get to a glue-up, so not a big deal for me

Great explanation👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

Also another helpful tip about hide glue is it will cure and adhere to itself where as pva's not so much. This is a great advantage to anybody like myself who is also a hobby luthier.

Very informative video !! Thank you for making this video

Thanks so much for teaching us.

This was extremely helpful!

A very informative video thank you for posting it.

Excellent video! Very informative! 👍

VERY enlightening , I think you should contact Titebond with your research and they could include the rtesults on their bottles to getthe word out . Thanks

Great video covering the basics. One thing to note on the strength is that the strength listed is the strength needed to pull the parts away from each other in opposing directions. It’s not necessarily shear strength. I remember reading a post by someone who was supposedly a chemist that titebond original actually has more shear strength than titebond III. I don’t have anyway to confirm, but intuitively it made sense though as usually stronger things are more brittle and thus would be worse in shear. Likely the difference is not enough to matter anyways even if they are a 1000-2000lbs different as long as it’s greater than the wood. Just thought it was an interesting bit of info.

Very informative and helpful!

Great thanks for your videos A greeting from Spain

With Polyurethane glue it helps to tape off any areas you want to keep it away from, and use mineral spirits and a lint free cloth to wipe off any excess (not soaking wet), and repeat until it starts solidifying and less comes out of the joint; Paper towels and the like don't work good at all here, so use an old t-shirt or other cloth. I never use Polyurethane on very porous woods unless I have a good amount to sand down after gluing, because you just can't get it out of the pores as well, even when wet as other glues, and it will show. I wrote this before he got to the cleanup section where he mentioned the mineral spirits.