Lots of good sense here. My only suggestion would be to place a block of wood under the chuck and hammer 'it', rather than the chuck, when installing the chuck into the drill press. Also, have the jaws all the way up in the chuck, so you're not putting the impact directly on them, and damaging them internally. -regards, Doug

Someone showed me once, that when you chuck up a bit and tighten it up with the key you just don't tighten on one hole. You half tighten on one hole, pin 120 degrees and tighten a bit more and then finish in the third hole. I tested three drill presses this way. it makes a difference. I think it's the same way that you don't tighten one jaw on a piece in a lathe and expect it to be centred.

I found this video incredibly valuable. I can’t imagine how else I would have learned about this.

I highly commend and celebrate your video and guide; no annoying music, straight to the point and excellent tutorial commentary. Thank you for keeping it explainable and digestible!

Don't worry about the outside of the spindle. Check the bore the taper runs in for runout. Mark the chuck when you remove it. Clean everything and check for burrs. Reinstall the chuck into the spindle and recheck the runout. If no improvement knock out the Morse taper shank and rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall. Check again. If there is improvement mark the chuck so it can be put in the same way. Do the same process with the chuck removed from the Morse taper adapter. By trial find the least runout. Then set the chuck onto the Morse taper adapter with a wood block on the chuck face with the jaws fully retracted. Lastly are the chuck jaws themselves. If the runout is coming from there, check the jaws for damage. If damaged or worn the best thing is to replace the jaws. The jaws are very hard and ground in sets. Here is where having a name-brand chuck pays off. There are repair kits for chucks like Jacobs and Albrecht. Chinesium chucks are like most Chinese products with their mysterious origins. Finding repair parts for anything made in China is usually a hopeless task. If money is an issue, throw the dice and buy another Chinese chuck and pray that it is better than what you have now. It will probably be cheaper than an Albrecht repair kit.

The adapter is called an arbor…the flat part at the end is called a tang…if the arbor is threaded with no tang, a cap headed screw can be screwed in to act as the tang for removal from the drill press quill..

If you want to see what you run out really means at the business end of the drill bit, then what you want to do is chuck your drill bit in upside down. And then run your indicator on the shank at the far end.

Incredibly helpful, thank you! I’m upgrading my old Delta 12” to the Nova Voyager and I will upgrade the stock chuck to a keyless (which is the main reason I selected your video). Now I know how to make the swap and check runout and maximize accuracy.

Big runout = triangular holes! Unless you spend big $, Jacobs type drill chucks are only good to 0.003" TIR, (total indicated runout). If you notice, the original chuck is stamped w/ JT3, which is a Jacobs taper. That is the female taper in the chuck. The tapers can be trued by bluing the taper surface, driving it home, removing & checking the surface contact. Truing the tapers is the 1st step. Unless you do that first, the only hope is getting 2 runouts to cancel each other, which doesn't happen easily. If you can minimize your TIR at the spindle, then improving chucks is worth the $. Another factor introducing TIR is using a drill bit, even a 'good' American bit. The +- tolerances of bits is huge compared to 0.003" TIR of a chuck. Use a precision ground dowel pin, instead. The cheapest TIR measuring tool. If you have a good reamer, that'll work. I thought drill or reamer blanks would be adequate, & learned quickly they weren't. I replaced an old drill press which drilled very nice triangular holes. My new drill press had ~0.004" TIR at the chuck. W/ very little truing, I got 0.0002" at the JT3. I had a 'good' 5/8" Jacobs chuck I paid +$100 for in the '90's, then the drill press died & all I could afford at the time was the triangular hole drill press. The chuck had 1-2yrs use. Put the 'good' chuck on the spindle w/ virtually no TIR, (0.0002"). Now had 0.004". A few months prior I bought an ER32 collet chuck & collets for my small lathe. Max capacity ~49/64" (20mm). While looking for a better Jacobs type chuck, I stumbled upon an ER32 collet chuck w/ a JT3 taper on eBay for $37. Took a chance & bought one. The TIR on my drill press is now between 0.0000" & 0.0001". The surface irregularity of the dowel pin in a collet causes enough deflection, the TIR is hard to measure, & the dowel is precision ground. The set of ER32 collets I bought were the cheapest Chinesium set on eBay, but for the lathe, reproducibility is more important than TIR. I did do some minor truing of the chuck, but didn't tpuch the collets. I paid $37.00 for the collet chuck for the drive press & gained 3/4" capacity. A Jacobs type chuck w/ 3/4" capacity would be $300-350, min. I thought the hassle of changing collets wouldn't be worth it, but it's not the deal breaker I anticipated. I got virtually no TIR, 3/4" cap, PLUS I can now use the ER collets in collet blocks. Can you imagine trying to end drill 1/8" rod w/ a 1/16" bit in your drill press? W/ a collet block it's a breeze. Same for cross drilling rod. It more than makes up for not having a keyless chuck. The $ saved on ER32 vs Jacobs pays for a hex & square collet block. I can perform drilling operations on my drill press I've only been able to do on a quill type mill. Still can't mill w/ it, since there's no radial rigidity, but precise drilling is no problem. Consider going to an ER32 or ER40 collet chuck to improve the performance of your drill press. You will not regret it. Yell at me w/ ???. GeoD

Very useful video for anyone with drill press runout issues.

A lot of great info thank you

When I was learning to become a machinist we were taught to snug down all three "holes" on the chuck regardless of who made it. At close tolerances it makes a difference. That was 48 years ago and old habit now.

Great video! I bought that same Wen keyless chuck for my Wen 1412 drill press. I found it has excellent runout, but as you show in the video the arbor without a tang was too short to get it out of my quill with the wedge that came with the drill press. I tried buying the MT2-B16 adapter, but couldn’t get the original adapter out of the chuck. I called Wen and found that the LA162 chuck is made tor lathes. They recommend the DPA158 keyless chuck for drill presses. It has the tang that locks in the arbor and sticks up high enough to knock out with the wedge. Wen sells both chucks for the same price.

Thank-you I have a cheep princess auto drill press I need to do this to mine. Thanks again.

Good video, useful information. Thanks

Excellent presentation. Very clear. Mike in Germany

Thank You for sharing 😊

Good video. Having the same problem with my delta drill press. Thanks

Real plain language, plus you went at a speed where I could follow you, thanks for that.

Thanks!

I did the exact thing to my old AMT press. The old 1/2 inch chuck was causing the bit to walk all over the place. Put a Key less on and not sure why I hadn't done it sooner. I've been super happy with its performance.

great stuff....thanks Jared......Paul in Florida

Curious to know if the drill chuck is performing well with the same runout after a year. Thanks for the video

I found your video helpful. I’ll check the runout with my dial indicator soon and try a new chuck. The info about the naming of adapters was very helpful. Id love to get a lathe and milling machine but my wallet screams every time I look at Precision Mathews or Grizzly. Lol

I would emery cloth the areas where the guage rides. Even a tiny bit of dust,dirt, or rust will affect the reading of the guage.

Like your video. I have and older floor model and would like to replace the quill bearings. Do you have any idea where I begin. A replacement quill with two bearings would even be a better plan?

Adaptor = arbor. Tab = tang

Very nice and to the point video. Found it by accident and now became a subscriber as I like your style. I have bought a used drill press and in the process of restoring. So this is very relevant and useful. BTW if I find the main shaft (& not the extension or the chuck) to be the culprit what is the solution? Do I need to replace the bearings? Since the drill press is an old one I don't think any spare parts are available. Thanks in advance for any insights you can give.

Reading a lot of the comments here. Haven't seen one that brings up the idea of placing the indicator base on the head of the drill press instead of the table. When turning the spindle by hand, shaking the whole drill press, seems like there could be an amount of play between the head and the table.

How did you find this chuck? There are lots similar available, and I need to do exactly the same thing on my drill press.

Good video, addressed process well. The tough part seems to be knowing specs of which parts you are changing… I. E. ; how do you know it is a Jacobs taper?

How do I order a keyless chuck for central machinery bench drill press 10" 12 speed.from harbor freight when I turned it on the chuck wobbles and the drill press shakes. it's about a year old and and don't use it a lot. I do have some videos of it running too. Thx hope to hear from you soon

You should have run the drill and rechecked your runout, popped the drill head out [ after marking}and rotated it and see if the runout is the same or +/- ,

Man, I wish you could see the runout on my antique Craftsman. It’s off by a baby’s finger. I hardly use it, but I need to get it up to spec.

Sorry, watching the second time you did gopod. still i would have licked to see more of how you increase closer tolerance on your tools. i remember a lot of things like that from my work.

How do you remove the chuck when your drill press does not have that cutout for the wedge? My Delta 17-965 is a floor model and does not have that slot.

Thanks, didn't even know that this could be a problem AND that it can be rectified!

The original adapter usually comes with a threated hole in the end of taper. You should have put a bolt in there with a thread lock and shape the bolt to fit in instead buying a new adapter. Just a friendly advice.

3 thou is much better than most press drill building tolerances. Unlesss you have a precision industrial drill as Argoba Maskiner or something alike, the general precision is much less than that. very good video.

How did you remove the arbor from the chuck? Wish you would have shown that in the video. I have a JT3 Drill press and wanted to purchase this chuck and replace the arbor for one that fits.

Rubber gloves to work on a drill press! What are you hoping not to catch from it?

How has the wen keyless chuck been working for you

Could you just put a short piece of Round Stock in above the new Chuck?

What is the name of the triangle shaped tool that you inserted to release the spindle from the press?

Can you adjust the old stuff or only remedy is to buy new?

Interesting 🤔 i would think that your upper in drill press would probably have zero runout. I just have a Harbor freight tabletop deal. That has some crazy runout in it.

You can buy a MT2 with or without a tang....

drill bits are NOT a precision item to check concentricity, get a proper parallel bar to check that

Please do not use a hammer to remove morse tapers from the quill. Simply pull down handle expose and align slot as shown Inset wedge then hold chuck or drill bit and lightly let the drill up and lightly bump the quil up. Bonus no more dropping drills or chucks!

🍻

Gloves?.

What?, Why not mark the high spot on the drill bit and rotate it opposite high spot on spindle, Try it as see it it increases accuracy, See in next Video.

You have rust and pits on the chuck that is easily 0.0015 inch

i learned to hate keyless chucks, much longer dan a normal chuck and always slipping and therefor f@king up your drillbits. never ever keyless chucks for me....

You would probably do better using a precision drill bit made in Europe, Switzerland or Germany.

Your runout will lessen if you use a smaller drill bit, as more of the jaw teeth are engaged.

Thx u! o7

Ahh yes, ye olde credit card fix!

If the Chinese spent a bit more time making things they could turn out decent stuff

Total rubbish, try checking the Spindle or chuck with the under power running it at full speed that will show the true runout. Turning the spindle slowly by hand proves nothingn

Wow the Goonies t -shirt, brought a smile and some memories for me the 80's kid 😃 enjoyed the rest of the video too , very useful for for someone who likes and needs to repair, modify tool's like me 👍🔧🪛🗜🛠

05:50 *Holy Virgin Mary* - that cries for a new chuck.

Great video, pretty bad audio.