The good thing is that the more boots that you own, the less times you have to resole each pair! 💡😅🥾🥾😊👍

Cut off the damaged parts. Sand it down. Then glue on a new piece of rubber. That's how my local cobbler does every job. It's functional. You get to keep wearing those shoes until his work fails. Most of the Pacific Northwest bootmakers offer resole and rebuild. They actually replace the vamp, relast the boot, and it's a brand new piece of leather getting stitched down to the new sole. No new series of holes to perforate the boot.

Great video! Lots of good information here

As much as I love the look of Veldtschoen type construction, I always consider at least 1 resole and it’s hard to find a cobbler who can do it well for a reasonable price in a reasonable time. GYW is much easier.

My man Nick gets around....! Love it... He's the reason I picked up a pair of Aldens..... You guys have a great channel here and always like seeing Nick with you... 5 STARS.... Greg in IN

🙌 Two of my favorite channels in one video!!!! 🙌

Great info! Thanks

I think the term for the sneakers with stitches on the sides of the high walled rubber sole is called "cupsole" It's the same construction used on the Jordan 1 and Air force 1 they can be resoled as long as the upper is in good condition. If your cobbler puts on the effort I think it's possible to reglue and stitch the upper to a new cupsole without adding new holes on the upper. They can use the holes already present on the upper as a guide to punch out the holes on the cupsole they have to hand stitch it. But of course it's really time consuming and takes alot of effort so the most practical is to just stitch it using a machine. But like the blake stitch you can only do it a number of times before your upper gets trashed by the number of holes on it.

Always fun to watch guys who know about boots and Nick chop it up. Well done.

Good to know. I find it a shame that some footwear has to get thrown away because they can't be resoled even tho the rest of it is in good condition

Good video

Im looking to change a boot sole to wear in a kitchen environment. As i am tired of buying $180 dansko every year that wear out.

I have some old leather Reebok high tops that still have great uppers but the rubber soles have turned hard and brittle . I would like to know if that brittle rubber can be sanded off and a new sole glued on . Always ❤ these collabs with Trenton and Heath.

Very interesting to know, because I am always confused about if they can be or not! It'll be good to know if Moccasin constructions like Yuketen can be resoled as well!

Hand-welted shoes aren't harder to resole than Goodyear-welted ones. Cobbler shops don't have the Goodyear-welt machine, the machine they use to do the outsole stitch is the same machine that you would use on stitchdown boots or Blake-Rapids (Rapid was a model of outsole stitching machine). If you ever see a video with Trenton or Heath replacing a welt they're doing the welt-sticth by hand (though they're not punching new holes on the uppers).

Loads of glued sole hiking and mountaineering boots and shoes can be resoled and returned to their original state. The manufacturers design them so that they can be resoled and explicitly state on their websites that they can be resoled. There are also cobblers who specialise in this sort of footwear. European/UK brands like Altberg, Hanwag, Scarpa, Meindl and Zamberlan all have large numbers of models that can be resoled. It might be different with USA brands. It is the moulded soles that have a combined mid sole and outsole created as one unit using technical manufacturing techniques that are hard to obtain. These either have to go back to the manufacturer or to the specialist cobblers that have relationships with the boot manufacturers and carry out repairs and replacements. These cobblers exist in North America as well as most European countries.

Awesome, Nick! So cool! Clothing offer: We want to co-llab with you!

So from what I understand from this vid and reading some articles: Cement: disposable running sneakers and work boots for really harsh workplace (like scrap metal yards and junkyards). Maybe for mudstompers too. Blake stitch: barely worn boots (dress boots if you're a blue collar). Low profile and comfy sounds great on dress boots/shoes. Rapid Blake Stitch: confused about this one. Is it also "infinity resolable"? I mean GYW will have to have the uppers punctured once the welt fails (either due to salt, water, snow). Stitchdown: popular and almost all the elephant lace-ups and Bisons (long lasting leathers) I see are made this way. Unfortunately unresolable where I'm at unless manufacturer offers the service (like some will actually replace the entire vamp so new holes). GYW: the gold standard. Not really infinately resolable from what I've read. A sharkskin/elephant and even shell cords will outlast the calf leather welt. Better condition those welts regularly then. Or wear an over boot (which sucks) when wearing in snow. I find it hard to wear leather anything below the vamps since I live in a 6-8month snow and the rest are rainy. No wonder why blundstones and Uggs are so popular here. And oh, Doc Martin's with the synthetic welt. Well, unless we have a leather welt/midsole that is also silicone infused.

Hey Nick I thought it's a kind of a last resort I would reach out to you. I have a a bit of a unique situation for boots. Thank you for all your great videos I've learned so much about mens footwear in Boots specifically. I can't recall the name but what are the most interesting I thought was Daniel Craig's and Him Incorporated them into the James Bond series which I'm a big fan of. So I have very flat feet and therefore I I need a very wide shoe 4W shoe. As important it has to have a very wide toe box. It's only been like 4 years ago and I came across Drew Shoes which are not a high-end shoe but it has a huge toe box and it's the only boot that I can find anywhere that will satisfy my feet and even still I have gotten rubbing so to speak on the sides of the foots which is creating calluses.. so ultimately the only shoes I have are the Drew Rockford work boots what should I wear in a 4w. Other than my Keen sandals. What a dilemma I know. I'm serious I have right now three pairs two black and one brown I just ordered another Brown and they're like about 300 bucks. Not only that is they can't be resoled well that's what one cobbler said then the other cobbler said that he could and when I got them after spending $120 were flat Sherry something I don't know Vibram material I can't remember the name of it there was no point in getting into a Discord with him oh believe me I won't go back there again I acquired about services for my orthotics and he said yeah I can take care of that I'm like hell no because that's not what I expected so if you would check out the Drew Rockford and look picture of the toe box you'll see how Square it is again because my feet are so bloody flat my feet just splay out it's not the most aesthetic looking boat but I'm used to it and I have no choice. I mean I don't go barefoot I wear these boots all the time like slippers or whatever if you will but I have no choice I remember I saw an coworker outside of work she goes wow wow you have big shoes I'm like yeah yes I do I'm laughing thanks for any suggestions anyway I really stopped looking for anything other than drill the Drew Rockford it's just disappointing they don't have the 4 W or the toolbox is just not Square enough it's fun getting older haha because it's just a waste of time the 4w in itself the four wide is a game-changer as it is because most companies don't make them without wide I'm screwed thanks for anything you could suggest keep posting these great videos we love them

Nick sorry for unrelated question but what do you know about Comfort Craftsman insoles? How much leather do they have in there? Is it mostly poron?

What if you have an old pair of Jordans who had the glue fail over the years and you can get a donor shoe to sacrifice the uppers to take the soles? I think the Jordan 1 might be the most likely candidate for that

Cee-ment! 🚧

Can resoling result in shoes getting smaller and fitting tighter? Is this also a factor of the shoe construction? E.g. I recently got a pair of old Bostonians (blake stitched) resoled and they ended up coming back almost a size smaller. Apparently, as per the cobbler, this is normal for blake stitch resoling. Please help with your advice.

Love how my guy pronounces cement

Aren’t these Thursday Tobacco Captains at 0:58?

It’s actually crazy you just posted this video. I just started wearing good year welted shoes and in one of them I need a resole. The boots is the Duke from Thursday and I’m looking for someone in Toronto to resole it. Also, is it possible to get my shoe ‘relasted’? I wish the boots were half a size smaller. I can always just put an insole but curious if there anyone in Toronto/Canada who does that.😊

It's funny because the military almost exclusively uses cemented boots which has been terrible.

Since most GYW boot soles are attached to a gemming, and the gemming is mostly only glued to the insole, doesn't it make it so that the only thing connecting the upper to the sole is the glue that is attaching the gemming to the insole. The reason I am asking this is that you guys always say is that the gemming glue on redwings always come undone over time.

CAN SOMEONE RATE THE STITCH?

For the first time in my life

😩😭🥰

A resole on a gyw boot runs you $100 minimum, and more realistically around $200. If the goal was to minimize cost per wear what would be the best construction? If you had a leather sole gyw boot and repeatedly topy it wouldn’t this be more cost effective? A topy job is much simpler and runs you say $40. You actually mention a similar idea at 2:08 where you discuss chopping off the damaged bits and gluing on another sole. And the response is that cobblers “rig it” when they do this, and “you get what you pay for”. Why can’t this be done well, repeatedly? Red wings with the vibrant cristys are glued. My topy jobs never “fell apart”. So glue jobs are clearly doable well. It’s a mystery to me why the standard is a labor intensive gyw stitch resole, when there seems to be a much less labor intensive alternative. Let the glued soles take the majority of the beating and resole the gyw stitches as a last resort when something more structural breaks down (cork filler, etc)

I find that some boots that supposedly can't be resoled actually CAN, but then the interior components might be too far degraded and these guys [and most others?] won't typically do the full rebuild.

Surprised you didn't mention White's in the hand welt section! Also, hand welted shoes are not necessarily harder to resole than GYW shoes (as long as the cobbler is not replacing the welt). Most handwelted boots/shoes use a machine outsole stitcher to stitch the outsole/midsole.

we had some great cobbler here in CNY no more no more stitching soles not even half soling noow glue on rubber half sole more like sole savers! yet their prices have gone up. had a pair of army low quarters, of course they are cheap bates shoes, the soles fall apart, these bates were new never wore em cobblers here wouldn't touch them one piece sole and heel nothing more then a glue job, had to throw out a new never worn pair of shoes crazy, how do these guys put food on their table? they don't or won't do the work!! and they all been talking retirement for more years then i can count

First

3:01 what is he saying here? Seemed hemmed construction? Semen construction? I got it now that I typed that. Gonna finish. See minted construction! As in cemented construction.

Coworker arguing that his GYW is better than my Stichdown Nick's because infinitely resoleable. Yes but ive worn these everyday for 3 years to go through one sole.. and when they can't they can be rebuilt, same difference